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Broken Din Connector/Preamp Connection Work Around


dctrmac

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I'm seeing this as a NO BRAINER here. Why doesn't Klipsch do an upgrade on an obvious week spot on a great sounding system. It's an area that needs a fix from the manufacturer.

I do NOT move my speakers around and I've had 2 bad ones. They weren't shoved against the wall, removed and installed numerous times, they just either broke or quit working. I fixed them a couple of times but this connection needs a "Klipsch Fix". It's giving Klipsch a bad reputation in quality control.

Harry

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I'm seeing this as a NO BRAINER here. Why doesn't Klipsch do an upgrade on an obvious week spot on a great sounding system. It's an area that needs a fix from the manufacturer.

I do NOT move my speakers around and I've had 2 bad ones. They weren't shoved against the wall, removed and installed numerous times, they just either broke or quit working. I fixed them a couple of times but this connection needs a "Klipsch Fix". It's giving Klipsch a bad reputation in quality control.

Harry

I completely agree and pretty much stated the same thing in the "Help!!! ProMedia 2.1 Right Channel Does Not Work" thread. I love my two sets of ProMedia 2.1 speakers, but when Klipsch won't even admit that this issue is in the realm of a prevailing, recurrent, or known problem, it reflects poorly on the company and its customer support stance.

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Not having a Radio Shack in my area, I ordered this PS2 extention:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826995032&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-N82E16826995032

The color coding on the wires is exactly the same as the Klipsch original. The pinout is exactly the same. If you order this cable, you can just match the wires by color. Just wired mine up and it works perfectly!

Thanks to all

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I bought a new control pod because I had loud popping anytime the DIN plug would move even a little bit. I replaced the pod and I still have the problem and its seems to be the preamp input (female DIN) connector on the sub? Any ideas how to fix this? I opened the subwoofer looked inside and it looks like the whole assembly is soldered & glued to the metal plate. Looks like a lot of work. Not sure if it's worth it.

Any thought?

Thanks

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As good as the sound is I've thought about using a new male and female off something else and eleminating the faulty connection. I'd probably bypass the existing mounted female and using a din combo off something else. It seems like the logical fix to cure this obvious weakness.

It would seem to be the easiest path to less work. I just haven't had the time or inclination to dig into this yet though. It's another project for my boredom down time.

When I get around to a "brainstorm" and simple fix I'll post it.

Harry

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Well, if you know anyone that is good at soldering I have the replacement female end that you need to fix this system which is probably the best solution, otherwise you can also do thing like get rid of the mini din all together and solder a panel mount style standard size din plug in it's place, which I can also help you with for parts, but to send the system out to have this stuff done would not be worth it once you calculate all the shipping in.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I bought one of these systems on Ebay like so many other people.

When I hooked up the system I get sound out of Subwoofer and one speaker. If i switch the wires on the subwoofer I can get sound out of the other speaker. So it apears the problem is in the amp?

But after reading many posts they all point to the din plug and control pod. ( even though the pod does not have a balance POT)

What do you recommend for either testing - or repairing this issue?

I can be reached at

rickdroth@aol.com

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Thanks Dec thats what I kind of though since it seems to happen to 99% of the systems. I already ordered the part last night on Ebay from Mr Clean.

I have a stupid question,. Since these connectors seem to fail without being plugged and unplugged, why is the problem? Is the connect inferior? or is it a bad design and they are pushiing too much power through the connector?

Putting another din plug on does not seem to be a solution just another bandaid.

just my $.02 worth

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Rick,

Mr_Clean should really be the one to more expertly reply to your questions. My understanding is that the stock DIN plug is of an inferior design and is typically prone to mechanical failure (especially if it gets pushed up against a wall or other object, or perhaps gets manhandled a bit too much). Again, Mr_Clean can no doubt explain this better than I can, but he does not just put the same DIN plug on. He puts a new DIN plug on in a manner that will likely give no further problems and backs it up with an iron-clad guarantee. I could tell by just looking at the finished product and then plugging it in that this was a much more substantial plug that had a real reinforced look and feel to it. Again, I do not have any affiliation with Mr_Clean other than taking advantage of his services. And as I mentioned on another thread, I also have a second set of Pro Media 2.1's on another computer and
when (not if) those start acting up, I won't hesitate to get Mr_Clean
to fix the DIN plug on them as well.

Don

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Wow, Thanks Alot Don, that is awesome to read the comments you have made about me, let me know when you need another plug and I will be sure to hook you up on it, lol. But now, of course I have to answer the question that was asked. The answer itself is actually rather easy and to no fault of Klipsch themselves, These plugs are mass produced for many many companies, not just klipsch,chances are good they also made the ones that you computer mouse and keyboard are hooked up through (excluding usb of course) but these plugs are engineered sadly enough with breakage in mind, but don't be upset about it, the intent is for these plugs to break before the plugs break what they are plugged in to, now do I think they are made cheaper than they should be? Yes! but at the same time, a majority of these break from being kicked or snagged or bumped into a wall, with that being said, you are alot better of (trust me)having your cables plug break, than the female end that is attached to your circuit board. But for those of you that may run into that issue I do have the parts available upon request, but I do not install them do to cost of shipping back and forth and labor etc. might as well buy a new sub! lol.

I hope this helped answer your question. If you have another question please feel free to ask.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

This tip (the original post) was a lifesaver today! I was moving my setup and picked up the speaker that has the control pod on it. Not realizing the other end was still connected to the sub, I pulled much too hard and damaged the end of the cable too badly for it to function anymore. Luckily the sub was not damaged.

I found this tip via Google. Feeling cautiously optimistic, went to the local tech recycling/thrift store and spend $2 on a PS2 cable. I spliced the wires together per the guide from this thread, then added a little electrical tape to keep them safe.

The system works like new again! This tip saved me a lot of frustration and made the repair much cheaper than I had even hoped it could be. Thank you!

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