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Enclosed K-Horn Bass Bins


Mick Bell

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Last weekend I enclosed the bass bins of my K-Horns. The result is quite remarkable. Bass is much more well defined and stronger. The sound stage much improved because now I can correctly rotate the speakers to fit my listening position. Before the mod, my best listening position was about 4 feet in front of my seating position. Now the best listening position is spot-on the seating position with much better bass response.

This mod is not rocket science but it IS labor intensive. It's also worth the effort. One 4 X 8 sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood will do the trick. If I had it to do over, I'd give serious thought to using MDF instead of plywood because it's denser and easier to work with. If plywood is used it's important that it have no voids.

If you decide to give it a try, I think you'll like the result.

Mick

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I followed the general directions and photos posted by IndyKlipschfan in the 2 Channel forum. I made one major change. Instead of taking off my original tailboard I screwed a 3/4 inch plywood tailboard on top of the original. This was cut at 45 degrees on the long sides. I also cut the long sides of the side panels at a 45 degree angle. I think I used more screws than Roger did in his project because I screwed the side panels to the added tail board about every 4 inches all the way down using 2 inch cabinet screws. So the side panels are screwed at each brace, the top, the bottom, and down the tail board. Remember too, that since you're enclosing the entire bass bin, you'll need to provide new "input" terminals. I put mine on the tailboards.

The finished product looks exactly like the photos IndyKlipschfan posted in the 2 Channel forum. I did not take photos of the work in progress -- too busy trying to finish the darn thing. So all the details of the project are now inside and can't be photographed.

I'm certainly no woodworker but the project turned out reasonably well. I used a circular saw for most of the cutting, a small jigsaw for some of the short cuts on braces. If you have a table saw - or know someone who does - that's the way to go for the long 45 degree cuts. Otherwise you need to clamp a guide board to keep the cuts straight. I don't think you can make these cuts successfully free-hand.

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