Deang

They may not look the same, but what matters are the specifications (t/s parameters).

If loosening and tightening the screws, which is really just done to ensure a good connection - didn’t bring the highs back - then you should probably just go ahead and replace the capacitors.

I misread something earlier that just made me want to bow out. I thought he said he got a reading from his RF-7 high pass with the straps removed, which really confused me. I don’t like internet troubleshooting, especially when there’s no problem!

Great, another screw problem.

What year?

You can also get them at https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k-33-e-woofer-121501/ As for the network, just think of it as preventive maintenance. Even if the capacitors are mostly okay, and many are - they are aging out. Best just to get it over with. This makes more sense then measuring every 40 year old capacitor and trying to decide if you should change it or not. The upgrade path is to go to the AL-3, but since you are selling these ...

Nice clean up. I turned down being a moderator. I told Roy that after a week there would only be seven people left. BTW, the Great Purge wasn’t about deleting content.

I see an untapped market here. Modified coil via gold(en) ratio screw providing intermingled cross canceled eddy currents.

Typical third party claims. Don't worry everyone, I still remember when I used to make them. 🙂

Mass roll off at 112Hz. Terrible.

Travis, I swear you are using text to talk, and I'm just dying over here, lol.

Hmm. I don't know about that one. That new bottom section is a beast.

Then why are you here? Looks like the topic is about comparing the two Jubilees. What does that have to do with Danley? Ugly set up btw.

Yes.

Are brass screws that expensive, lol. There might be something to debate about if we didn’t have a schematic telling us what the correct value is.

Negative and positive are reversed. It’s done on the network side when the network is built. In your case, just flip them on the driver side.

The only difference between the two networks is that the Type E reverses polarity for the mid range driver.

You can use the Type B2 if you want to. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/214320-type-b2-network/

I should have just went to bed last night! Why was I posting about a screw at three in the morning!

I’m going to have them rebranded and call them Cranky Yellowjackets.

Yes, I made an assumption. Sorry. You have a PM.

I’ve already submitted the question. This somehow went from “some”, to most AA’s built in the 70’s, to every AA built in PK’s adult life, lol!

@JRHThis one keeps raising its ugly head. Any idea for how long the factory was inadvertently using a steel screw with the 245uH coil? Someone has postulated that there were so many of these, that it may have been deliberate.

What I figured, but had to ask since I wasn’t 100% sure. Thanks! @JEM Performance

So I was wrong once and you have evidence? 🙂