Deang

http://www.ca.uky.edu/fcs/FACTSHTS/HF-LRA.053.PDF

http://www.britain.tv/household_and_diy_waxingoilling_wood.htm http://www.flute-net.com/flute-info/articles/oil-2.htm http://okok.essortment.com/polishwood_riaq.htm

Hey, I just follow the directions on the back of the cans. I've also spent quite a bit of time researching this stuff. Yes, wax will seal the grain. The idea here is to "finish" the wood. That's the whole point -- to seal the grain and "protect" the wood. Why do you want to rub Linseed Oil into your wood every year? Why not "seal" and "finish" it?

Since a capacitor supposedly doesn't pass DC -- why does it matter what the DCR of an inductor is in an LCR circuit? There is a lot of live and learn with DIY. It's like working on a huge jig-saw puzzle, and you spent most of your time crawling on all fours looking for the pieces. I'm really hung up on this DCR thing, and I can't seem to let it go. I did finally change out my inductors for the bass, going back to the correct DCR to bring the driver/cabinet/port relationship back in line. After getting the Qts of the drivers for the RF-7's and using some online calculators -- I realized it was the smartest thing to do. This made sense though, as the woofers hang right off of the inductor. John Warren surmised that Klipsch used the DCR of the inductor to tweak the Qts of the woofers, and I think he was right. A "spanking" by DJK prompted me to revert back to the correct value. What doesn't make sense is when looking at the tweeter circuit. While poking around on the board with my MM, I did confirm that I couldn't get DC to pass through any of the caps. So, if there is a cap on either side of an inductor, what the hell does it matter what the DCR is? It sure doesn't look like it's going anywhere. Another thing I'm lost on is this idea of hanging a resistor off of an inductor to tweak the DCR. I know people do this, but I don't think it's "right". I spent some time measuring the inductance and capacitance of various resistors in my possession -- and the values that were coming up were surprisingly high. I suppose one could do this kind of thing as long as all three values (resistance, capacitance, and inductance) were considered, and factored in. However, my gut tells me there is still a missing piece to this.

Boiled Linseed Oil should be cut with 2 parts Mineral Spirits before use. Only mix enough for each application. Also, you should never wait longer than 10 minutes before rubbing out. After 24 hours (actually dries in 12 to 18), follow up with a good paste wax. Now, a much better product for this, especially if you are dealing with scratches and watermarks -- is Howard's Restore A-Finish. There is absolutely no better product on the market for the restoration of natural finishes.

Yes, thanks Dee -- that was a good read.

I'ze jist havin some fun. You know what? Anything is possible in this crazy hobby of ours. It's just hard to understand. My brother-in-law has an unfinished basement, sort of set up like a rec room. You get a couple of kids down there, a little music going, and some fussball -- and after 10 minutes I've had enough. The room is THAT live. What happens when you do the hand clap test down there?

Listening Rooms for the Hearing Impaired Multiple Listening Rooms, each with Unique Acoustic Properties Special Order Item 1C: Steel over Concrete

Did you happen to see the comments at the Home Theater Forum on the crossover mods I did to a friends five JBL-26's? Less than $50 will take those S38's to a new level. A surprising amount of dynamics from those with good parts.

Well, actually that's a good idea. You have the luxury of that option. Plus, the extreme 45 degree toe in gives you full room coverage with the least amount of reflection. I agree with others here, I wouldn't spend a dime on anymore system stuff until you hang some drywall and get some acoustic room treatment going (acoustic foam along the side walls next to the Scalas). ALKs, Type A's, whatever -- will be a waste of money until you get the room set up properly for audio. You better hope Artto doesn't see that room, he might call for a lynch mob.

Hmmm. At that price it shouldn't take long to sell on Audiogon. You'll probably sell by tomorrow.

"... an old Scott thingamajigge..." "Blah, blah, blah..." If things get anymore technical around here I might have to take a nap. Lynnm, rumor has it that Craig has a really nice butt.

The bickering may be annoying, but somewhat understandable. There is some history between these two. Now, in spite of this, there is some damn good info in these threads. Taking it outside just robs us. Why not just eat the meat and spit out the bones?

Oh no, not the ichy stuff. Lynnm, you're cruel. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-317

This could be interesting. Sold them to NASA.

I think you're brain is shorted out.

Anything of substance.

Welcome to the forum!

AudioCap Theta, Hovlands, etc.

Yep, round and round it goes -- starting from where the lens is attached to the driver, all the way to the front of the lens where it meets the motorboard. Pack it down hard, squeezing it with your hands and fingers. I kept a little cup of water next to me while I was doing it to keep my fingers and hands moist -- it will stop the stuff from sticking to you. The Type A is supposed to sound good. Of course, it sounds good to those who are used to, and enjoy the sound of a midrange horn. To the rest of us, who don't like having the midrange drilling a hole in our heads -- the option of being able to dial down the squawker is a real plus. The LaScala has no grill cloth. It doesn't sound like a big deal, but it is. That driver is beamy as hell. Some cloth will help with that. Get yourself some velcro strips with the adhesive back. If you take your time you can make it look nice. Fold over the edges of the cloth once you get it sized, and have your wife sew it. Attach the velcro and ta-da!

Tom, I know exactly what you are hearing over there. You will have to work your arse off to get the Scalas to where you will really like them. Rope caulk those lenses ASAP, get Deflex inside that boom bin, and start working on those ALKs.

You turkey, you know how to solder -- build your own!! It's cheaper if you just stick cotton in your ears.

"Some dead guy got it wrong." LOL - very funny.

Hey Flux, maybe you should learn how to read a little better. Ryan said the RUSSIAN 7199's suck, and in the post that Craig copied in, he's specifically talking about 7199 NOS -- not Russian 7199's. With all due respect Craig -- did you miss that too? At any rate, I say use the right tube for the job. If the Russian tube is repinned, I say just shell out the money for NOS 7199's or get rid of the amp and buy something more suitable to the pocketbook.

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?preatube&1062621813&class&3&4&