Deang

B&K over all of it

I like hard crap. Have you heard anything off of Fuel's first two CD's?

From the tribe of Judah

2nd answer... ....overdriving them with more power than they were designed to handle. As long as you don't drive your 25 watt amp into clipping -- you're not going to hurt anything. Jim!! You know this crap already!! Also, with 25 watts on a horn loaded 15" driver -- I bet it wasn't moving at all, much less a 1/4".

Think he's got some Moondoggies tucked away somewhere?

My SET mono-blocks will play louder than your SET mono-blocks No need to call Dennis about that, we've already had that discussion. Have you ever read the following from Dennis on the Cary site? He may design SET amps, but I believe he prefers triode P-P. "To illustrate a couple of vertically bi-amplified home systems, I would like to share two examples used in my home: System number one has a pair of B&W 801 Nautilus loudspeakers. This loudspeaker is a three-way design with a 15" woofer, a midrange driver and a tweeter. The crossover has bi-wirable separate inputs for the woofer and one for the tweeter midrange section. I have a pair of the new Cary Audio Design Rocket 88 stereo amplifiers driven by the Cary SLP-2002 preamplifier. One of the Rocket 88's is for the left channel and the other is for the right channel. This is called a vertical bi-amp system. In this usage, one stereo amp is used for each channel with one channel driving the 15" woofer and the other stereo channel driving the midrange tweeter. Two separate sets of speaker cables are used for each loudspeaker. The inputs of the Rocket 88 amplifiers are joined together with combining interconnects that Cary Audio now offers. In this case they are balanced to balanced "Y" connectors. I am running the channel that feeds the woofers in the ultra-linear 40 watt per channel mode with the speaker impedance switch set at 4 ohms. On the same Rocket 88 amplifier the midrange tweeter channel is run in the 20-watt triode mode at 8-ohm output. The end result is astonishing. The sound stage width and depth increased appreciably and even when played at extremely loud levels the presentation stays focused and life size. The sonic improvement over a single stereo amplifier is not subtle. System number two consists of a pair of Magnapan 1.6QR Planar loudspeakers. This system uses two V12 stereo amplifiers. I have one channel of a stereo V12 amplifier running in the ultra-linear 4-ohm position for the main bass & midrange panel and the other channel operating in ultra-linear 8-ohm position for the tweeter panel. This gives me great balance with more air in the high frequencies, along with great control in the bass & mid-midrange. Again, I've gotten fabulous results, even better than a single pair of V-12 mono blocs!"

Depends on the person. I've changed my mind about a lot of things related to politics and religion over the last 10 years. I listen to people. If what they say has some validity -- I investigate it -- instead of putting my head in the sand. I would never say anything about anyone's grandmother, unless she wore army boots. Ranger?

Justin, You are young too, and very intelligent -- so think about what you said. It is NOT pointless. People say: "Never discuss religion and politics". Is it any wonder that these two subjects are the ones that people are the most ignorant in? I say embrace them. Debate, argue, wrestle with the ideas, and know that in the end -- you will be a better person for it. People will never come to agreement on all things. However, it's not always about agreement, but about knowing why a person feels the way they do, and then knowing them as a person. Seeing into the soul of person helps to create compassion and compromise -- which is far better than hate and death. Want to cut down on terrorism? First adopt a realistic middle eastern foreign policy that effectively deals with the cultural and religious diversity in the area. Eveyone needs to be on a level playing field. Favoritism is not acceptable, for "God is not a respector of persons...". Part of that foreign policy forces Israel to comply with the two U.N. Sercurity Council Resolutions they have been in violation of since 1967, which deal with Israel moving back to the pre 1967 borders. Finally, the establishment of a Palestinian State would go a long way to the building up of a true trust relationship between the United States and the Arab/Muslim people.

Yes, I really like the DJH Super Amp. I will probably buy another someday. I can't argue with anything you said, as I understand the points made fairly well. Still, I think specs are important, and a good sounding tube amp specs out fairly good in most areas, and a bad sounding tube amp specs out horribly. There is a place for the numbers, and they shouldn't be totally discounted. I am where I am now, because I found out for myself that a 15 watt pp amp sounded better than one of the better solid state amps on the market. The Super Amp however, is a well designed unit with good parts and attention to detail. I don't believe ANY tube amp would have sounded better than the Bryston. I just think a good tube amp will spec out better than a bad one. That's all I meant by "middle" ground. The numbers have a place -- that's all. I agee that SOME of the numbers don't mean anything, and there are yet numbers to be found for things the brain itself hears. So now I will find out the difference between SET and PP, and find out if it is indeed "better". I'm testing the waters so to speak. Just putting my foot into the water to see what it feels like. But even if the water feels good, it will be difficult for me to let go of the watts. Watts mean headroom, and more headroom means less distortion. I think there's a spec for that somewhere:)

Kain is young. Learning. All Muslims are not terrorists, any more than all Christians belong to the Extreme Facist Right. I read all of those threads, and I think Kain saw what I saw. Americans brainwashed into thinking that Muslims are sub-human, evil people, because of the actions of a minority. That's right, just wipe them all out. Imagine someone takes your property, bulldozes your homes, schools, places of worship -- and puts you in a refugee camp. Imagine someone has been doing this to your family and relatives for 60 years. You do not have safe borders, you have no representation, and no standing army. The only country with the power to do anything...does nothing. Oh, we give Israel a hand slap every now and again, but it's pretty much just for show -- so we can look like wer'e being "fair". Of course, if anyone says anything in defense of an Arab or Muslim, they are automatically labeled "anti-semetic". Sure, Israel has the right to exist, and to have safe borders. However, not at the expense of 1.6 million Palestinians (many who are actually Christians). I wonder how many Americans actually stop to think about the fact that Israel is an apartheid state. It is for Jews only, at the exclusion of all others. Americans who actually want to understand the dynamics of the Middle East, and get into the mind of Eastern thinking -- might take the time to read President Jimmy Carter's "The Blood of Abraham", and William Baker's "Theft of a Nation". At any rate, Hobbit -- you and Ranger, and Americans like you, only enforce in the minds of people like Kain, that most Americans are a bunch of war mongering dicks. I remember his rant, I also remember that Kain is a product of his environment and education. A lot of the things he said was wrong. It would have been better to enter into intelligent dialogue with him -- instead of wishing death on him. So, bombing a school with a bunch of kids in it is "right on target" -- Proud to be an American

Kelly, The AE-25 DJH had the Jensens as coupling caps, but where film and foil tins were used, they were MIT. Polypro caps were Solen. The DQ's used mylar caps throughout, with the exception of the circuit for the woofer and midwoofer-- where an electrolytic was used. So, I yanked the 80uf electrolytic out of the bass/midbass circuit -- and put in an AudioCap (strapped to the bracket). Now, I did change out the inductors for this circuit, but the values were identical, with the exception of a slightly lowered DCR on the bass shunt. To MY ears in MY room, it sounds "slower" in the bass than what I'm was used to out of a DQ. It's a more full bodied, somewhat fatter sound. Not the "tappity tap" sound I remember. Whether the electrolytic is "faster", I don't really know. It is possible that there is now slightly more output in the lower registers in relationship to the rest of the drivers. This would upset the balance a little, and that may be what I'm hearing. When I use the SVS, and cut at 50Hz, I can get seamless integration -- and the DQ woofer almost sounds "normal". Overall however, the speaker is a much better speaker than before. The MITs and tweeter change create a very smooth and open sound, with no discernable grain. Imaging is vastly improved, with instruments now floating between the speakers, instead of the left/right image they were known for. There is a little less transient attack than the stock version, but the pinpoint imaging and smoothness more than make up for that. When I drive them hard, they really open up -- completely enveloping me in the soundfield. I still think they are breaking in however, because everytime I turn them on, the sound is a bit more effortless, and it seems it takes less on the attenuator then the time before to get the same effect. I still prefer the crisp, tight, effortless sound of the RF7's, and when I listen to them, I forget about the speakers. The DQ's are a lot of fun, but they never get out of the way, you always know you are listening to speakers. Their is a veil over the music, and it's noticeable. It is only at high SPL's that the DQ's really let go. However, It's rare when I want to hear anything that loud. I have considered selling them, and taking the Heritage plunge, but I really want to wait and see what happens after a couple hundred hours. At any rate, I'm babbling and off topic. I would characterize the MITs as on the slightly warm side of neutral, and smooth as glass.

Works for me. Glad you went back over his post. I wasn't aware Pat did anything to it, but yeah, if he did -- then why mess with it for now. In the AES DJH stuff, if it's film and foil -- it's a MultiCap. Remember, I fall square in the middle between you and Al K. I don't know what it is about me, but I just always believe the truth lies somewhere between two points. So, maybe a few Multicaps, a couple of Hovlands, a Solen here and there, and some of Craig's chewing gum:) Something I thought about today while driving around at work is the completely different signature of the bass on my DQ's after yanking the one electrolytic and replacing it with the 80uF AudioCap. I still haven't decided if I like what I did to those things on the low end. The bass is full bodied and fatter, and definitely slower than the electrolytic. I lost some speed and attack with that change. Bet those old amps are chock full of electroytics aren't they?

Kelly, I really think you might have mis-read Pat's "tone". He's seems to be fairly direct, and seemed to me -- just making some straightforward observations. I understand what you are saying when you say that since it's in working order with the original parts, one can somewhat deduce what the original signature was/is -- even though some of the parts might be running in a degraded state. I also understand what Pat is saying, and it makes sense as well. The bottom line is that it ultimately comes down to preference. Pat says he liked the Hovlands in the 299, but there is no way to tell if I would like the Hovlands in the amp. Part of all this is mental as well. I have a high degree of confidence and trust in the RelCap products. I was willing to go with what I trust -- and let the chips fall wherever. I just figured if it sucked-- it wasn't like it couldn't be undone. Are you sure about this -- I don't think Pat was trying to pee in your Cheerios or anything:) Why don't you give it a whirl? You know I'll buy it if you end up deciding to sell it.

I have less than $100 left for this "upgrade" -- so I can't really try different things. I pretty much only get one shot. The amps have a wood base, and I'm using one of the solid cherry center pieces out of our dining room table (we never use(d) it, the dining room is too small to accomdate a table the length of a football field). This "table" sits on the floor between the RF7's.

Oh yes...I read it all. Everything, everywhere. My eyes are sinking into the back of my head and my significant other was deeply disturbed by my appearance this morning. I assured her I was fine, and muttered something to her about Mobile and some POS Scott amp. I am fully expecting some hum. Hell, the SuperAmp "hummed", and it was clearly audible through the woofers. Once the music came on, it was a non-issue. Also, keep in mind that the RF7's are NOT as efficient as Heritage, and may not even be as efficient as Klipsch claims (sorry BobG). In my room, using test CD's and music -- I get something close to 99-100db/w. Remember too, I do tend to listen at slightly higher SPL's than most here. I think it will be O.K. Received this email from the seller recently. I thought you might find it of interest. "Hi Dean. I have only run the 300BXLS. I would have tried the 842's next, as I have heard great things about them. The input/driver tube is the 6EA7, and there are many out there. I found the NOS RCA's are best, but I have not heard that many. I suppose the reason for that is that the amps are very quiet already into my Thiels. I built these with great attention to detail, keeping wires close to the base, twisting pairs as detailed in the directions (loose, tight, etc.). Adding the Black Gates even quieted it more. BTW, the Black Gates are not fully broken in yet. These amps will get even better. I recommend using 3 Versapods #5 under each amp to eliminate any vestige of tube ringing. I use Synergistic Master Couplers with them, plugged into the wall. My power conditioner is the AudioMagic Stealth, which is the best I have heard, and which caused me to sell my P600 Power Plant, but the Apollos sound better without it. I bought boxes and packaging materials today, they will be double boxed and shipped individually. I gotta say, I am going to miss these guys. If you decide you don't like them, call me first, please. Dave"

...or something to that effect for these amps I'm getting. I want the most effective way to isolate without breaking my bank account (as if I had any money left to worry about). Thanks,

Nice post Scooter. Nice webpage too.

"...have you considered the VV52 from them?" I have a boatload to learn about SET, and these amps in particular. Seems I spent forever on the Welborne Forum over the weekend. Read most of your posts about the Moondogs as well -- I was wore out last night. As of yet, I don't know much about what tubes I can run in these things. I knew about a AVVT32, but nothing about the VV52. Adding to the confusion is they had some problems early on with the Apollos in relation to the KR tubes. The amp originally put out 22 watts with the 300BXLS, but I guess there was too much voltage on the plate (or something to that effect), and the Apollos were chewing through the tubes. According to the seller, Ron W. had owners change out some parts, and in doing so, reduced the output of the amp to 18 watts. KR also made some changes to the 300BXLS, and I guess in the end -- the Apollo/KR combo became very good. You mentioned something about KR possibly going under. I suppose your information might be better than mine, but my understanding is that they are starting to do much better than in the past. At any rate, I read most of the posts about the KR tubes, and forum members seemed to be equally split on them. I also read Ron W. FAQ on his amps, and apparently, the Apollos themselves aren't going to win any awards in the SOUL department. They apparently are a nice step up from push-pull, but not on the level of the Doggies. OTOH, I'm expecting these to match up well to the RF7's and my somewhat obnoxious listening habits. I'm going for tone more than timbre anyways. I don't think "timbre" applies much to the stuff I listen to. At any rate, it might not be a bad idea to try some tubes that offset the soullessness (is that even a word) of the Apollos. So, what can you tell me about these "VV" tubes? Who makes them, and are they "drop in" -- or does it require changing out a cap or two?

Bob Gassel recently related the same thing to me when I questioned him regarding changing caps in my RF7's. In fact, his response was verbatim to what your last statement was. I didn't really agree when I read what he wrote. I have some mixed feelings when you say it as well. OTOH, I am extremely limited in experience, and I'm not about to force by half-assed opinion on anyone -- especially you or Craig. I should probably use the money to buy some KR300BXLS anyways. I hear they redesigned the tube and it's much better than the earlier type. I'll try to keep some money back if you decide to give up the Scott. At any rate, I hope I didn't offend you, I'm a typical Type A personality -- prone to confusion and asininity)

Kelly, I actually wasn't exactly sure how it was going to work. What you said is what I initially thought, but our email exchange Friday night left me wondering. Your strong feelings and preference of the Eico over just about anything, had me thinking you might just let me have it. At any rate, It was a fun thread. I agree that the different caps and resistors would change the sound of the amp somewhat, but that is actually the point -- to take something good, and make it much better. I do understand what you are saying about leaving the original circuits as intact as possible -- that does make sense. But it also makes sense that parts degradation over time, changes the original signature of the amp, and if anything -- the new parts restore the piece closer to the original voicing. At least, that's what I thought. I do believe these parts would raise the Scott to a completely different level. There is a reason people like Dennis uses the RTX caps, and other RelCap caps in their products.

Your email Friday night was somewhat cryptic, I figured it would be a good way to find out if you really wanted it or not:) It was a fun thread nonetheless -- you really think those resistors and RTX multicaps would "wring the life" out of it? I hope your not serious, but if you are -- I'm really surprised.

I get first dibs on the Cornwalls, they in pretty good shape? uh, don't tell anyone I asked about them, I'll get all kinds of crap from the Heritage bigots:)

That's precious Jeff. Now you know dad is number 1, especially when he brings home good tunes for his little girl! BTW -- nice horns. What did you have before, I don't remember. What year are those Klipschorns? They look like new. Congrats!

Excellent work. What are all those wires for;)

Yeah, I caught what you said, and then I read where you said: "I've been told there really is no difference between the tubes the manufacturers just picked the cream of the production crop and named them 7189s and charged more for them." I got a little confused after I read that, I thought you were saying they were the same. My bad. Dag gone, I need to go to bed. My brain is shutting down.