Deang

I don't really understand the infatuation with the Denon gear. I prefer something that's all discrete like the Outlaw gear or Onkyo. With the RF7 setup, you can worry less about power and more about quality of sound. Are you buying local or off the internet?

It didn't even last a whole day. It's gone. Anyone from here get it?

All good things come to those who wait...and are quick on the keyboard. Stock AE-3 Red Base 5692's Guess since I'm not "afraid" of my soldering iron anymore -- I can stick some Jenson's in there myself at some point. I did finally break down and buy a nice 35 watt Weller. The tip on that thing is awesome. Also, Mdeneen and Craig are right. The Kester 44 is fantastic. This message has been edited by deang on 09-25-2002 at 04:20 PM

Yes, I said that. I still believe it too. I'm convinced Ears and Hump are the same person. This message has been edited by deang on 09-25-2002 at 04:12 PM

I stand corrected. It is not wired in triode. I knew that. I have no idea what the hell I was thinking.

I remember now, this system's in the big kitchen area with the Forte's on each side of a window/glass. So, the system will be playing while you do other things you enjoy. You'll be perfectly fine. You are obviously not anal like some of us that sit and listen for every freaking nuance.

Thanks for the warning

"Happiness is a warm - yes it is - gun."

You did good. You got class A triode with a full warranty. Ain't nothing wrong with that. I didn't know about the norh. Looks like a lot of amp for $400. http://www.norh.com/products/se9/index.html What speakers are you running, I don't remember. Got yourself a 555es as well. Uh...you got yourself a kick butt combo. SACD and 30 watts of triode is going to blow you away. I don't care what people say about Sony. The 333, 555, and 9000 machines sound great.

The AE-3 isn't going anywhere. I'm thinking about a tube preamp to go with the Aragon 4004 MKII and DQ's in the event the G.A.S. Thalia proves to be excessively bright with the Aragon. I've been keeping my eyes open just to make sure I don't miss a good deal. The Thalia will probably match up well in the system. I'm just keeping my back covered. I would just sell one of the units after I decide which one I like in the system. It was impossible for me to pass up the Thalia when it showed up on AudiogoN for $350, brand new, in an un-opened box. I have extensive experience with that preamp. It served me for over 10 years in my Luxman/Magnepan system. Very warm signature for solid state. This message has been edited by deang on 09-25-2002 at 11:41 AM

I have $2700 into Goertz cabling. Cables are the single most important part of an audio system. A cable/component mis-match can spell catastrophe. Always be sure to buy cables where the crystalline structure of the copper is such that all the molecules are touching. Failure to this means extreme signal loss.

What are your thoughts on the Cary SLP-50 (uses two 12AU7's).

Damn. $700! Talk about practically giving it away! O.K. folks. This is basically what I run, and though Moondogs it probably ain't -- it is definitely a giant killer. This is the amp Mobile twisted my arm to buy, and I loved it so much I eventually upgraded to the DJH version of the same amp. www.superamp.com http://www.audiophile.com.au/aes_specs/ae25saspecs.html http://www.soundstage.com/revequip/aes_ae25_superamp.htm

My post asking you to show pics, bill of sales, and drivers license was based on sarcasm. I was trying to make a point with you. I was being facetious. Seems to me you started this by publicly calling Ears a liar, and then lynnm and myself imbeciles for trying to correct you, and defending a fellow forum member. You are not making any friends here, and have successfully alienated yourself from some of the classiest, most knowledgeabe forum members. Smart move on your part. The Klipsch community is more like 'family', and you basically took a crap in our living room. You can either apologize, or find another forum. If you are not willing to apologize for your slanderous remarks, I see no real point in you being here. I mean, it's not like anyone is really going to want to engage you in conversation, or solicit advice from you.

I have no idea what to think when I guy who used to listen to LaScalas, calls the DQ's "bright" -- and then has the audacity to blame it in on the turntable You know, it was probably the cables. Actually, they are a little bright, mostly in the presence region. But I like "bright", as long as it's not harsh. You didn't have your 400 on horns did you? That would have been plain awful sounding. This message has been edited by deang on 09-24-2002 at 11:55 AM

101 -- I want to see pics of your gear. I also want to see the Bill of Sales to prove that it is really you that made the purchase. I then want a pic of your drivers license, so I can compare it to the name on the Bill of Sales. Here is my stuff: I have to pay by the hour to listen to it. This message has been edited by deang on 09-24-2002 at 11:43 AM

Good posts all. Ray, you depressed me -- I forgot about that stuff Ken, do it for the experience. If you don't like it, or it doesn't work out -- you can find something else. At any rate, at least you will be doing something you have a genuine interest in.

The Phase Linear 400 was the "voicing" amp for the DQ-10's. Bob Carver actually built these at the request of Jon Dahlquist -- and they are still good friends. Incidently, the somewhat "etched" highs of the DQ-10 are not caused by the piezo, which doesn't even take over until 12Khz. The problem is the Philips tweeter. The actual crossover for the tweeter is listed as 6000Hz, but with the 1st order crossover, it's actually playing much lower, lower than it should have been. I was told by Regnar that the issue was addressed with their cap upgrade kit -- and I forked over $160 for $50 worth of caps, just so I could find out what values they changed. In the end, I decided to go with the original values. This message has been edited by deang on 09-24-2002 at 11:03 AM

I buy ALL my tubes from Brent. And yes, he is very honest.

Klipschguy, the Polk comment was just a joke. I understood what you were saying. I agee with you. Like I said, the specs are a guide -- there are several other variables that need to be considered in making a determination of the true bass response.ajgb72, In my room, with my front end gear, at my listening position, with my ears -- the RF7's have great bass. A bass freak, who thinks the whole room should be shaking everytime a bass string is plucked would certainly think I need more bass. The whole idea of what is great bass, or enough bass, or whether or not one likes the character, or sonic signature of the bass -- is totally subjective. This message has been edited by deang on 09-24-2002 at 10:40 AM

Understood. But you should never under-estimate the power of Polk.

Of course, you can also get into the thing about how everyone arrives at their numbers. I mean, you can take a small box, set it into a corner on the floor, with the back and side walls against it -- and probably raise the bass by 12 db. My little table is really just a generalized way of seeing it, based on my experience with various speakers over the years. Klipschguy, I know what you are saying, and there is certianly a difference between the character of the bass (tight and controlled, or fat and sloppy) and the specifications. But there is this other thing -- the difference between more bass, and low bass. I mean, you can take a speaker and build it, and then place it so it is +10db at 50Hz -- and this speaker will sound like it has more bass than another one that goes down to an honest 35Hz. The specs are just a guide. We look at a speaker and think about things like manufacturer reputation, build quality, the size of the box and drivers, etc. All things together show us the truth.

Of course. It's honest work if you do it honestly. There are good salesman, and I personally seek them out. I'll gladly fork over the money if they earn it. I will now share with you my favorite 'close', and if you use it -- you will do fine. "So, Mr. XYZ. When's the best time for delivery?" -- or any derivitive thereof. "Would you like me to help you load it up." It's just a matter of timing. When their squirming, but look like they want it -- deliver the close. Nothing to it. The secret to sales is remembering that people love to spend money -- even if they act like they don't want to.

You, my friend - have crossed the line. Lynmm is perfectly correct. You owe an apology and retraction. I've been fishing and hunting with o'le Ears, and have both seen and heard his Klipsch Reference HT and Dynaudio systems. You must be insane to mess with that crazy French Canadian. You're lucky if he doesn't seek you out and drop that Krell on your nuts. This message has been edited by deang on 09-24-2002 at 11:17 AM

I'm back in business thanks to you guys, especially Al - who went the extra mile and sent me a page out of the Mouser catalog showing me the exact parts I needed. Mouser is huge - I got lost out there. Hey Mike, that Vifa is a replacement Dahlquist used when the original Philips driver was no longer manufactured. It's bizarre that someone from this site would actually have one of the keys I've needed for the last month and a half. No one, I mean, NO ONE -- seems to know the driver Dalhquist used to replace the Philips, and you pop in with this "Vifa" bit. I ended up getting some Scan-Speak D2010's -- only because that's what everyone else is using for these beasts. Turns out, it all started with an Engineer at Sonic Frontiers who was looking for replacement tweeters when his finally bit the dust. The story goes that he literally went through piles of tweeters. It got to the point that several employees at SFI even got involved in the process. When it was all said and done -- it was the Scan-Speak D2010 with a 12 ohm resistor wired across the leads -- that everyone liked the best. So that's what I be doin! It would still be nice to know the exact model number of that tweeter if you can tell. Any chance the impedance is on that driver? If you get bored, how about running your multimeter across those leads and telling me what the DCR is. Thanks! This message has been edited by deang on 09-22-2002 at 10:30 PM