RFinco

---------------- On 3/20/2004 3:28:02 AM wheelman wrote: Walmart real cheap and they have solid colors that's all i care. Rfinco you know of any good knockoff watches? I was checking out Tag years ago. I never could afford a watch i really liked so i never bought one. ---------------- well..they're not "knockoffs" though they do look quite a bit like rolexes.... INVICTA---a really really nice watch for the price. They look great, quite functional--nice and "solid" for what you pay for them, I challenge someone to find a better product for the pricepoint.... I've had success with this company-- www.miamiwatch.com don't let the cheesy website fool you--they've got great prices, and are very competent. I also like this company as well: www.4abnet.com the invicta "speedway" for 120.00 bucks is a fantastic watch and a DEAD RINGER for the ROLEX "daytona" which will set you back around 9k. I've had jewlers accross a counter ask me where I got my DAYTONA from, as they are hard to find in the white face/stainless combination. I then took it off and showed it to them--stateing--its not a rolex, and it only cost me 110.00 bucks. Invicta did this on purpose...hehe.... Any of the INVICTA watches are quite nice--easy on the eyes and wallet. especially their skeletonized mechanical automatics--see through face and movements for under 250 bucks. UNHEARD OF. GOOD BRANDS--all under the price of a TAG(new TAGs are ugly anyway....) ORIS (classic style, will never be outdated--just a wonderful company...) XEMEX (very unique designs) MOVADO OMEGA INVICTA (best rolex-look alikes out there...) SWISS ARMY (their new designs-chronos are quite nice) TENO BULOVA (if you like the tag look--these are very similar in style) There are more of course but those are some of the ones I really like....

---------------- On 3/20/2004 9:13:02 AM John Albright wrote: "The RIGHT HAND RULE in physics. the "braiding" technique actually will create a magnetic field and as was mentioned affect the capacitance. in runs any longer than 10 ft. this will severely affect the reproduction of Higher notes from your speakers." Actually, this is backwards. The brading and twisting randomizes the influence of each filamant's magnetic field on the other filaments, reducing inductance. Standard zip cord, with the conductors held close and parallel, is the worst for both capacitance and inductance. CAT5 will be extremely capacitive unless you use teflon insulated plenum type. Braided CAT5 has extremely good HF response; something like -1 dB around 200 kHz. I still can't hear the difference. -Ok, at this point my Mr. Wizardian type curiosity kicks in and I'm learning--trying to understand this a bit more... -what it sounds like, in laymans terms(PLEASE correct me if I'm incorrect..at this point I'm trying to understand how this works..) that the BRAIDING in combination with the TWISTED cat5 line DOES NOT create several magnetic fields, moving clockwise--all independent of each other BUT INSTEAD the magnetic fields are to some degree "difused" by the braiding and twisted cat5? This "difused" magnetic field REDUCES inductance? doesn't this work in opposition to some of the stuff that Faraday was doing-i.e. wouldn't the increase in twists and braids actually INCREASE induction due to the greater numbers of magnetic field interactions? wouldn't this increase in induction cause changes then to the alternating current, and in turn these changes affecting the speaker's reproduction of the sound? I don't know--I'm asking..I'm not trying to be challenging here, I'm just trying to understand... -------------- ______________ When I get my first Cat5 run done, I'll have Damon and you over to give it a comparison to 12GA. JM JM-- any reason is a good reason to come over--I actually would love to hear an a/b of cat5 line vs. speaker wire. that for me, personally would put this issue to rest. I actually was going to do the cat5 braid for my fronts--i researched where to get cat5 very cheap online, and I did a mock up of the braid (i had to learn to braid to do this..). I then braided a 2 ft. section of cat5 and "encased" the braid in tubular nylon webbing for ashethics. Stripping all those TINY wires is quite a pain...finally after reading so much on it that was back and forth I said to hell with it and just bought some monster z with the pre done interconnects.... I'll bring a copy of gladiator...I really wanted to see that on your system!

---------------- On 3/20/2004 12:39:03 AM STL wrote: RFinco, I agree one could make a North Face jacket just as good for 1/3 of the price, but I want to point out the chinese aren't doing that (at least not yet). Their jackets really aren't any better than what you can buy at wal-mart. ---------------- yeah--I agree they're not better, they're pretty crappy. ---the thing is that these people that create this stuff are also running a buisness, legitimate or not--One would think that the would try to build better merchandise. Those white van speaker guys should actually build better speakers--the word would spread and bam--their traffic increases considerably-I mean the ENGINEERING is already done, as is the marketing, and the advertising...you would think they would do better than they do...granted they loose on each sale, but they make it up in increased volume... god--I should do some marketing work for the criminals--they just don't use their heads and think long term--they got everything already in place-all they do is ride the tails of a legitimate company--its painless...they already don't care about the law--the rest is easy...

---------------- On 3/19/2004 11:15:17 PM Griffinator wrote: OK - so what you're saying is that, while the magnetic field that a twisted-pair creates rejects the RF interference commonly generated by long wire runs, it also decreases the capacitance, thereby destroying the HF transmission capabilities, and yielding a net gain of ZIPPO for your audio transmission? ---------------- hmmm....honestly I'm not sure if its the same thing....I think the biggest difference is the fact that twisted pair is one set VS. braiding which is the biggest problem--with braiding you have the equivalent of 3 twisted pair, i.e. you have 3 distinctive magnetic fields. Griff--I would believe that you know WAAAAY more about this than I, and physics, particularly electromagnetics is not really something I know much about. I would guess that with twisted pair, that formed magnetic field is helpful-yet at a low enough level that it doesn't affect the signal adversely--while, the 3 magnetic fields of braiding cat5 line, or possibly any multiple sets of twisted pair is where the problem lies. what do you think? am I full of crap? its entirely possible..... I've been trying to do some research on this issue in the various physics websites, but man....this stuff is way confuseing...and boring.

---------------- On 3/19/2004 7:15:32 PM paulparrot wrote: In most of the apartments I lived in, in the past, the most serious problem to high fidelity was having to keep the volume really low. If you've got neighbors and the typical thin walls, thin ceilings, thin floors, and you don't want to offend them, you have to keep the volume way down below satisfactory levels. At one apartment complex my neighbor was the manager, and she got irate if I had my amp past the first notch (out of 10 notches). I suppose you could do some serious soundproofing. It doesn't apply to me now, but what would you suggest, Art, for apartment dwellers in these kinds of circumstances? ---------------- I'm curious about this as well--apartment soundproofing is very costly. I've known one person that had permission from the landlord and actually soundproofed and THX spec'd his apt (calibrator for Marcus theaters-1 bedroom apartment with $130,000 worth of gear-10ft screen, DLP projector-Lexicon, parasound, B&W, etc etc) but I know he payed BUKU bucks for all of those treatments.. I'm rather lucky in that my apartment is actually HIGHLY sound resistant, and was built like that on purpose but this is a rareity. provide some links for some of these treatments that are available please?! I and other apartment dwellers would love to know!!

---------------- On 3/19/2004 6:57:05 PM Cleve wrote: You have to watch out for those counterfeit watches, Tex. I periodically get spam e-mails touting 'Italian-Crafted' Rolexes - trouble is, Rolex is Swiss! It used to be only the major watch brands, Rolex, Omega, Seiko, TAG-Heuer, et al, suffered from counterfeits, but now even the less-known high-quality Swiss brands like Fortis, and Oris (my own personal watch) are being 'homaged' by cheap copies. Most of the time, the watch companies will pursue these 'pirates' for trademark infringement. ---------------- yeah, I know its kinda wacky...but--a patek phillipe for under a thousand dollars--sure its not the same thing but if its a mechanical movement...the machinery alone is worth it...besides--who has 90,000 dollars to spend on a watch?--who is to say that a watch is worth 90,000.00 in the first place? By the way: AWSOME CHOICE ON TIMEPIECES!! oris are soo nice-simple elegant incredible overall (I'm a watch guy, and this is one of my favorite brands) my next watch that I want --ORIS TT1 heres another design that also has caught my eye www.teno.com as far as materials of north face jackets go--I could contact W.L. Gore and associates and get a bolt of gore tex and all the materials to make a 1000 knock off jackets that perform just as good and sell them for 1/3 the price of a "actual" one. I again say, you are paying for their knowledge of how to build something like they did-their inginuity and engineering, not the product itself. Copying a successful product is easy, developing it is not. I'm surprised that these "white van" speaker people haven't figured this basic premise out--go buy some GOOD speakers--and copy them to the letter.

---------------- On 3/19/2004 1:30:06 PM texas42 wrote: These are yet another example of 'white van' speakers, in my opinion. It's like buying a Rolex 'knock off'. Buyer beware, you get what you pay for... ---------------- I've found a few places where they will sell rolex knock offs and other brand knock offs with the exact same internals as the "original" brand--it is essentially the same piece its just not made with the 10,000% mark-up is all... by the way--the knock offs aren't all that cheap, but are inexpensive relative to the original-for example a knock off that is considered an A+ translation of a $9000 dollar rolex will be around $1200.00 --- a far cry from the 25.00 one that I saw in vegas!! I think this could be the case for many many knock off products out there--the Chinese are absolutely incredible at reverse engineering, and can often duplicate something exactly at a much much lower price. As far as the clothing rip offs go--you pay for who makes it, who engineered the design, who marketed it to you local store. Don't kid yourself--the parts are the cheapest thing of them all. Do you really think an ARMANI suit costs ARMANI 700.00 to make and they then sell it to you for 1600.00? It wouldn't surprise me if the North Face knock off jackets were junk, and it wouldn't surprise me if they "performed" as well as the original brand. I wonder the same thing about speakers--Like how much could an exact quality knock off cost as opposed to the "real thing" Wilson Audio--are they really WORTH $100,000.00 Lexicon MC 12--is it worth 12,000.00 ??? I'm not saying its "right", nor am I endorseing counterfit anything-- I'm just saying it exists, and to a quality level that rivals the "real" thing....

---------------- On 2/17/2004 12:45:33 AM PumaMan wrote: I've been reading through these forums and noticed that a lot of people use CAT5 cables for their speakers. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought CAT5 cables are for networking. How does one go about using CAT5 cables for speakers? Any brand suggestions, or does Home Depot/Lowes sell the stuff in spools? Also, what advantages does CAT5 have over other cable types, such as standard twisted copper? Thanks in advance for the help. I'm going into the Air Force in May and I plan on devoting a lot of my money to building a sweet system Right now I just dabble in cheap home theater stuff (such as my home-theater-in-a-box Yamaha YHT-100s, which cost me $180 and sound surprisingly good... the subwoofer sucks though) ---------------- I was just talking to DamonPayne about this tonight while we were watching PREDETOR 2 (no..we're not proud...). I mentioned the cat5 braiding and such and he brought up something that I hadn't considered. The RIGHT HAND RULE in physics. the "braiding" technique actually will create a magnetic field and as was mentioned affect the capacitance. in runs any longer than 10 ft. this will severely affect the reproduction of Higher notes from your speakers. Skip this technique and just use speaker wire. It seems to be another gimmic to some degree like green marking pens....

---------------- On 3/17/2004 3:59:22 AM wheelman wrote: ....But if your sole purpose is for chilling in front of your stereo go single tray may be british. ---------------- did you just use "british" as a negative slang term? cause...if so....giggle....I'm totally stealing that...

Everyone it seems has SOMETHING, often music related, that is sort of their little "ace up the sleeve" I.E. the one thing that you love to tell people you meet, that undiscovered CD that you know about, that technique that you love to share, that factoid that you just have to mention... Its that one thing in a very small amount of time that distinguishes you-the thing that you hope they go and try, listen, attempt and come back and say "hey-I did/read/saw/heard/whatever "X" and it was great!! thanks!!" Mine is music or media related--I try to figure out what the person might like, and flip through my knowledge in my head and find something that they MAY have never heard of--and love. ex: for "new" rock -- VAST self title Blues -- R.L. Burnside--*** Pocket of Whiskey Weird Electronic/ambient -- Beaumont Hannant Soundtracks -- HEAT Sampling/Industrial/unique --- E.B.N. etc etc So---whats yours?

I just gotta say-- the first time I ever posted on here I was in this crazy battle and I got wailed on by Klipsch Fans and Fanatics alike...I mean...they were throwing their older unused speakers at me in hopes that they killed me I guess... I just wanted to defend my speakers...SOOOOB!!! boooo hoo..... actually, even after that I still really like this site--and the people on here are very knowledgeable! Griff, I like your hostile little smileys.....

---------------- On 3/16/2004 3:00:58 PM aaabbas wrote: I'm a nubee and need help. I recently purchased a reference surround sound configuration with RF15's, with an Onkyo SR701 A/V Receiver. I am very disappointed. The high's were great but the mid's were almost non-existant and the lows not very pronounced, even with my RF 8" sub. I'm looking at exchanging my receiver with another and am looking for suggestions on which would compliment the Klipsch the most. I'm told the combination with Onkyo and Klipsch is not a very good one, since both are very Briliant by nature. I'm also considering upgrading to RF25's or 35's. My family room is approximately 18 x 20, with 10' high cielings which is also open to the kitchen. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, -Andy ---------------- I've noticed that many of the postings on the AVR forum talk about how Onkyo do not sound good with Klipsh. I haven't "heard" this in a showroom, but that is why I like feedback from people that have. A really good match are the PIONEER elite line--they have a very laid-back, not to bright sound which balances well with the Klipsch sound. here is a great forum link. If you are in no hurry, and do some reading you can find a good match. http://pub106.ezboard.com/baussiedvdandhtforum here is the largest forum on the planet--if you post there you'll probably get quite a few responses to your question as well. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=90 some of the things I've been told that sound good with the Klipsch speakers are Pioneer Elite,H/K, ROTEL,B&K(I hear B&K just sound WONNNDERRRFULL with Klipsch...very warm, rich sound..but they are pricey in compairison to the other brands out there..)... The ones that I've read about that DONT sound good with Klipsh.. Sony, Denon, Integra(higher end Onkyo) the ones people were "back and forth" on Yamaha(many say its very bright) and NAD(NAD are very neutral-some LOVE it..some dont) I think bang for the buck the Pio ELITE line has some nice pieces that aren't "flagship" but have a great sound none the less and compliment Klipsch very well. If you go to the forums I would think the best way to ask this question would be to find out which receivers are "naturally" bright in sound. A Bright receiver with bright speakers will sound very harsh. SOME say Klipsh are naturally a little bright(I'm not saying they are, I'm just saying this is what people have said), and if this is true you want to find a more neutral sounding receiver to balance that out. It also, could be your cables as well, but thats a whole other ball of monkeys that I'm sure someone will bring up.... I hope this helps a little, Sorry about your first purchase--I know how much of a letdown it can be when you unpack a piece, hook it up, and are just dissatisfied with the sound, pack it up again and take it back...

---------------- On 3/16/2004 2:05:02 AM cwm wrote: I've often wondered what the difference is between the Stanford-Binet and the Terman index?? ---------------- well...heres "some" of the answer... Alfred Binet devised a testing schema that was designed to test mental age in compairison to chronological age, based on a formula of mental age/chronolgical age x 100 = I.Q. (William Stern from Germany created this formula). Terman, who was a Stanford University professor renormed the test for American Children. The new test, was not the original Binet standard, but it was largely based on the original design by Alfred Binet. This renorming for AMERICAN children was called the Stanford-Binet exam, and is still in use today. the other designs that are out there, such as the tests from the link I provided, attempt to remove the cultrual norming and make them more "universal" regardless of culture-they also are a lot more difficult... the norming of the stanford-Binet design happens VERY often so, when you take it you are compared to a population from a few years ago at the most NOT children from the 1920s.... Now, if Terman continued his studies and "broke off" from Alfred Binet's work and developed his own proprietary testing schema, I don't know about that BUT Terman did attempt to look at the "future" accuracy of those children assessed with Higher I.Q. ---I.E. a type of "where are they now" kind of approach. Hope that answers something...or at least gives food for thought.... I just noticed that Jerry Springer is on my TV right now....my I.Q. just dropped to a mouth-breathing 68...

---------------- On 3/15/2004 10:19:04 PM Joe Shmoe wrote: Hey dude, don't rain on my parade LOL... I'm sticking to the test I posted... makes me almost borderline genious! ---------------- Joe just to make you feel even better--Genius is rated at 132 (on the stanford binet scale) so you were more than borderline! congrats! if that test is accepted--you could join mensa.

---------------- ---------------- WOW I just tried to do this puzzle thing and after a while I just said forget it! I guess I'll just ask my mom to have me tested again. When I was tested to get into the gifted program my IQ was 138 (I think). ---------------- I know what you are saying--I was tested in high school and it was like, 165 or so...but since then I've watched a lot of TV so after my calculations I figure I'm sitting pretty at around a solid 72. these test on this site were just crazy...they made me give up and go play with something shiny.

---------------- On 3/13/2004 5:58:28 PM T_Shomaker wrote: I just took a free IQ test on a website and it said it was 162. I didn't really believe this so I thought I would ask a few other people what they got on the test. So if you would like to take the test and post your score here is the website. http://www.iqtest.com/welcometest.html Thanks, Taylor ---------------- Though I don't doubt any of the people on here are very bright--this isn't a very good IQ test. It definitely doesn't follow the Stanford-binet concept, which is the IQ test that is the standard in the industry. here read this--it'll make your head hurt http://www.eskimo.com/~miyaguch/history.html#Pi%20Society and here are the tests--they'll make your head bleed http://www.eskimo.com/~miyaguch/hoeflin.html some of these tests only 10 or 20 people in the world can do, and a few of them, only 5 or less in the world can do correctly. GOOD LUCK! Keep in mind also that some say I.Q. is just a measure of how big your storage capacity is--you still have to fill it with stuff.

---------------- On 2/25/2004 8:38:36 PM sheltie dave wrote: Damon, welcome to the club re "not hearing back." I went to Ulimate today and asked the manager point blank why he has never chased down a quote for me, and he said "You don't really look like a Klipsch owner." I told him he needed to schedule an eye exam, and also that I own over half a ton of Klipsch speakers. His actual words when it registered were "Oh pluck me." He actually followed me out to the car in the parking lot, apologizing as he tried to call his buyer in Denver. I'll drive to Chicago to buy Klipsch before I buy from this ... ---------------- I love this story! on a similar vein--but not about Klipsh (sorry!)but it is about FLANNERS the suckiest bunch of sucks that ever did suck.... I use to have a Phase Techology (PC 1000) 2 channel system, with NAD components, that was very musical and suited me well. I needed a new tweeter for one of the speakers, so I called Phase Technology in Florida, and they said to go to FLANNER'S, as they were their dealer in the area. I went there, and they first--wouldn't help me (I was about 24 at the time) or even look at me. I politely asked for some assistance in their service department, and was literally ignored face to face. I then told them what I needed. They said that it was impossible for them to get that part and that I needed to bring the speakers in for repair. I told them that Phase Technology told me to order the part through your company. They then told me that they wouldn't do that, but they would for $350.00 determine if thats what needed to be fixed. I went home, rather pissed and called phase tech back. I eventually got the tweeter directly from them, skipping Flanners entirely. took the hex nuts out, replaced the tweeter and put it back together good as new. The next time I went to FLANNERS i wanted to demo the Definitive Technology BP3000 and 2000TL towers for the home theater I wanted to build. I had 6000 in cash, in my pocket at the time ready to buy if I was so inclined, and more in the bank ready to be spent. I was first ignored, then when I approached a salesman, he condescended to me. The kicker--They refused to demo the speakers for me. Refused! I asked and they actually said no. They felt that I was just some punk wasting their time I guess. I eventually went back to the salesman that ignored me and happily told him what I had purchased, and how it wasn't from him or his elitist bastard store. I ended up putting together their "high end" home theater setup on my own, for about 6k less than they would have charged me.

I should ask this guy I know about this one... He is the THX calibrator for all of the MARCUS theaters in the Midwest he also has the best home theater I've ever heard/seen...in his crazy soundproof THX spec'd apartment... he had the B&W THX system with the 802 grade subwoofer(i don't know the model--the big black glossy one...) powered by Lexicon and Parasound. He had the projector that rolled out of the ceiling via remote, and it was all hooked into line doublers and other such gizmos. For movies it was spectacular...for music...it was loud. LOL--when Gladiator was in the theaters I wanted to see it in a 6.1 enviorment at least. I mentioned it to him and he asked what theater I was going to. I told him and he said "ok..don't go to the 9:20 show, that theater isn't as nice as the 10:05 show. when you get there you want to sit "x" # of rows back from the screen and 2 chairs off of center because thats where the calibration point is because my guy was off by a little for the rear surrounds and we haven't got over there to fix it yet.." it amused me that he knew exactly where I should sit....

---------------- On 3/14/2004 5:40:43 PM DaddyDee wrote: My brother in law is the sound guy for his church. He was asking me about a headphone recommendation to deal with his particular situation. Whatever he is using now is not satisfactory because he needs to hear just what is going on the tape. His current headphones also let in the ambient room sound, which is a problem. He was wondering if I had a suggestion. I said, nope, but I have an idea that there are some folks on the forum who might have some good advisement. Any recommendations. Budget and bang for the buck are helpful considerations. I don't know what kind of money he's actually got to work with. Probably not alot. Appreciate any help here. ---------------- someone already mentioned HEADPHONE.com which is awsome cause they have the most info on headphones out there... if you want true noise cancellation try the ETOMOTICS (spelling..??) earbuds--they block noise as well as industrial grade earplugs (23DB rate) and are audiophile level equipment. I think electronic "noise cancellation" is a bit of a gimmick.... they aren't cheap though...you might need to take up donations for them....

---------------- On 3/14/2004 9:57:02 AM jhawk92 wrote: Brickwall-RM20 Modular Price on www.brickwall.com is $400, but on www.pricewheeler, it is $449, and the model is the PWRM20AUD, so I am a bit confused on the pricing. This model has 8 outlets in back and two in front, for 10 total. They talk about line filtering, so is this the same as "power conditioning?" They mention isolated recepticals for digital and analog components. Is that preferred? On another forum, a few people had mentioned that with their Brickwall, they experienced some decrease in the dynamics on their audio system. Not sure if that was because they had a 15A model and their system was drawing more current than the Brickwall could handle, but I certainly don't want to adversely impact my sound; that's why I got Klipsch in the first place! Maybe these were the earlier units that RFinco and Minn_male42 were discussing? ---------------- line filtering at this level of product = power conditioning. you can spend thousands on power conditioners so its important to know that there is a distinction--but at this price point the terms are somewhat interchangeable. Isolated recepticles is preferred. it eliminates what they call "crosstalk". which, I don't know what it is per se, but I'm guessing I don't want it. heres a little snipet from a review about that: " The "AUD" suffix refers to audio, and 8R15AUD has some specific features just for that. The main difference is the inclusion of isolated receptacles. This, according to the manufacturer, eliminates crosstalk between receptacles where, say, dirty digital components muck up the sound of the other components. The 8R15AUD also features improved EMI/RFI shielding." DECREASED DYNAMICS ISSUE: yes, this is what Minn_Male and I were discussing. there were claims that due to the brick wall being a current limiting device that their dynamics suffered with the 15amp model. I think, after reading about it further that IF this was an issue, it WAS ONLY AN ISSUE WITH VERY POWER HUNGRY SYSTEMS. so this became a complete non-issue Brick wall began offering a 20amp version. the ORIGINAL 15amp version was never made for audio use--it was for industrial shops and such. Audio people just found its technology to be quite useful and adopted the product. When PRICE WHEELER found this out they began offering this in the AUD model, and that "hum" issue completely disappeared, and they designed the unit for audio useage. there are quite a few reviews out there for the BRICK WALL-some quite technical. they can give you more insight into that side of things. I like my unit-its silent, it's hidden and its always on. If I had more money I'd buy one for every expensive electronic item in my house... hopefully this answers your questions-if you have more, just ask. and, FYI the model I have is: PW2RAUD. I wish I could get the one you are looking at...this wasn't a model that existed when I purchased...

---------------- On 3/14/2004 10:27:00 AM BBB wrote: ----------------- Look in your mirror. I’m the guy you almost killed yesterday. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/road_rage.jpg"> he he he he he he ---------------- BBB, you have a amuseing picture for everything don't you....?? I'd poop a purple twinkie if I saw that in the mirror.....

---------------- On 3/14/2004 8:51:40 PM arthurs wrote: I find my pudding is better when I have two spoon heads on the end of a single spoon handle...this "bi-spooning" if you will really separates the smooth highs of the butterscotch flavor from the creamy substance of the pudding itself, totally enriching my pudding experience....the butterscotch flavor is really extended and detailed, while the overall "taste stage" is wide and deep....some say a single-headed spoon is as good but for my money I can tell a real difference...thinking about upgrading the spoonheads to one's with higher silver content...thanks for the ideas on cryo, hadn't thought of that... ---------------- Oh. My. God. Arthurs, this is one of the more clever posts I've ever seen--the pudding rant. I'd join in but, I'm out of my league. you puddafiles have me beat. LOL-I mean it too...i laughed out loud when I read this. thanks for the smile. the line that really did it was the "all other puddings aren't as efficient" efficient pudding for some reason makes me crack up.

---------------- On 3/13/2004 11:05:08 PM Rdmarsiii wrote: With the people with the peeling paint problem: Back in the eighties, GM decided to use water based paints because it was cheaper. They didnt do any testing and they put it right into production. Like yall said, when you washed them, the paint just peeled right off. Me and my dad had that conversation about a year or so ago... ---------------- Also, another issue in the early-mid 80s: the big 3 bought cold-rolled steel from japan that was rolled "dirty". because of these impurities in the steel the cars rusted Very quickly, and they rusted from "inside" the metal itself-i.e. it couldn't be inhibited or stopped. The sad thing was that at the time AMERICA made absolutely fantastic steel, yet it was more expensive than the import stuff. The other sad thing is that the people within the steel industry that knew about metals were aware of the impurities within the Japanese process. In fact, the only buyers of Japanese steel in quantities at the time were the big 3. the other industries stayed away from it like the plague. American Car companies lost quite a lot of consumer faith because of this. It was an ideal time for the import companies to stake their claim and offer an option to what looked to be a faulty product on the market. Because of this horrible materials error American companies have been playing catch up for quite a long time. Regardless of their ACTUAL quality the big 3 still needed to contend with a very difficult past, both in the quality of their product and their refusal to support American industry.

RFinco: If you really go 160, you better have some REALLY good tires. Flipping a car at that speed without a all-out roll cage puts your life in the hands of the man upstairs, not the car. The amount of energy in a car doing 75 and 160 is TREMENDOUS. My Camry has gone 110, but I don't want to push it further with stock suspension. I know the car can do 130 without too much drama. ---------------- I've really gone 160...its not something I do all the time, but I would say that at least once a week I find myself zipping along at 125 or more....the car is only at 3500 Rpms at that speed... Radar Detectors are just too easy to use! if you get a good one they work well. (passport 8500) yeah. of course good tires. I wouldn't even consider going fast without good tires. 225/45/17 Z rate tires-Dry pavement. I only use top of the line tires, and change out for winter and summer of course. Flipping a car at that speed and I'd be dead dead dead...I think there'd be a billion to one chance that I'd survive something like that... as far as energy--my car's handling improves dramatically over 100mph. A camry--has no buisness going fast..much too unstable at those speeds. My car lowers as it gets faster-it gets tighter to the road, and the incredibly tight suspension becomes invaluable. I would never drive a car like a camry or passat or taurus or whatever at that kind of speed...it just wasn't made for that-the second you move the wheel you ask for trouble.... thats one great thing about european cars--they excel at handling at higher speeds. I'm not worried about my car handleing it..it's made to be fast--I'm more worried about ME handling it....

---------------- On 3/13/2004 9:12:16 AM minn_male42 wrote: it may be possible that the early brickwall units had problems..... the current units do not.... and surge-x products have never had any problems... and anecdotal "evidence" is just that..... anecdotal..... even if the original units did "hum", that does not indicate current limiting.... "I know that price wheeler responded by making a 20amp version with a 15 amp cord..." brickwall (price wheeler) does not offer a 20 amp unit with a 15 amp cord..... from their website.... "This unit is designed to work with 20 amp applications. A 20 amp line and outlet is required for this unit to be used." that statement is on the cut sheet for every 20 amp model that brickwall offers.... ---------------- I agree with you--I was just responding as to "where" that current limit rumor came from. I was in no way saying it was definitive proof, just merely how it started. It actually started with a professional "review" and trickled down into the various forums out there... as far as the 20amp with the 15amp cord--that was a type of "stopgap" solution that was offered Immediately upon this becoming a concern-it was the early version of the "AUD" model. Brick wall doesn't offer this version anymore--as you said, its 20amp with 20amp cords now.... As far as the other 2 companies that have been mentioned--when I was doing my research I never once heard about them, which is a shame because competition breeds better product selection. I'm just glad that there are a few companies out there that are getting rid of the "sham" of current protection for consumers. When I was doing my research on this PANAMAX insisted that the destruction of their product was sacrificial--it saved your equipment. they also insisted that this was the only true way to stop current. They had a video showing their product failing and basically catching on fire, but the equipment was safe. I couldn't deal with that sort of BS. What a racket!! ...you know our product works when its destroyed. then, merely buy another one... (this sounds like something the government would endorse) I want to get into an industry where once your product does what its intended to do, it never works again and people happily throw it away and buy another one-especially one where the equipment costs 100s of dollars to the consumer! ..the closest I can think of is "air bags" for cars... I'm just glad that I didn't buy into their bells and whistles and lights and instead got something that will work due to its technology and build not merely because of promises...