Coytee

---------------- On 8/18/2005 9:17:32 AM Klewless wrote: Coytee, I'd say you have darn good speakers! ---------------- mmmmmm...thanks but they're no more than what others have here... ?

---------------- On 8/18/2005 10:17:14 AM mbajner wrote: why don't you keep them? ---------------- Then he'd be stuck having his boss come over all the time to visit his babies

---------------- On 8/18/2005 1:12:19 AM michael hurd wrote: Sibilance is an issue in some loudspeakers, where "S" and "SH" sounds are exagerated, in the region of 6-10 khz. However, some source media ( music ) was originally mastered with a slight amount of sibilance in the original recording. The amplifier simply takes a small signal and makes it bigger, the loudspeakers are what reproduces the sound. ---------------- I'm not arguing, but trying to further explore. If that's the case (and I'm not doubting it), then why do my Khorns sound less sibilant with a tube amp, than solid state? (old Yamaha CR-2040) Same speaker, different amp. ???

Any way we can get a message to them & save them? Just imagine a set of Heritage in the locker room.... http://news.enquirer.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20050817/SPT0201/508170351/1067/SPT02 "Oh yeah, we all put our big screen orders in," quarterback Gus Frerotte joked Tuesday. "We all want all kinds of stuff. We all put our orders in and hopefully he's going to share the wealth.".... .....Evans, who was in his final year at Auburn University when Brown was a redshirt freshman, said he and Thomas have compiled a $15,000 "to-do list" for the rookie. At the top of the list - a Bose premium surround sound stereo system and flat-screen televisions with PlayStations for the locker room."

Good thing she didn't (evidently) own a chain saw Sadly, I do have a chain saw (good for cutting to smithereens) I also have: An industrial backhoe (good for crushing to smithereens) Really big hammer (see above about smashing to smithereens) Second floor level, french doors (good for dropping to smithereens) Several tanks of propane (how high will a Khorn blast off?) Tractor w/'bushog' (good for chopping to smithereens) Fireplace (yikes, let's not even go there) Circular saw (good for cutting to smithereens) Jig saw (ditto) Yep...I'm afriad I'm stuck with my wife. She simply has too many weapons at her disposal.

---------------- On 8/15/2005 12:16:19 PM sfogg wrote: Just be careful in trying to fill in nulls. If it is a true room induced null you can't EQ them out as you could keep dumping more and more power into it and it will still null out. You will end up running out of amplifier power, running out of EQ or damaging the speakers and the null will still be there. If you are using 1/3 octave measurements/EQ you might 'hide' the null in the measurements but it would still be there. Shawn ---------------- Perhaps I used the wrong word. It was not a void, but a spike in the curve. We toned it DOWN, as opposed to trying to fill it up. Interestingly, Mike gave me the same commentary you did about filling the hole, as opposed to cutting the tree. So, since it was a spike, is it called something different than a null?

At the risk of putting words into his mouth, I'd guess he felt it sounded better with it than without it. I also put the 5bx back in. If my understanding is correct on how it works (attenuate the soft passages relative to the loud ones, instead of expanding the loud ones), it dawned on me that it might just be a great match for flea tubes (as compared to the older model I had that DID expand and demand a bigger workout from the amp) I'm still not quite getting it with that impact restoration feature so I'm fiddling about with the controls in general & seeing what happens. As an aside, that Beringer seemed to be one fancy schmancy eq/rta.

My thanks to Mike (Mdbse2a3) who came over Saturday to not only listen to Als ES networks, but to also compare the Transcendent SE-OTLs to the Wright 2A3s. He also happened to bring his Berringer eq/RTA. To my neophyte ears the system sounded fantastic. Mike hooked up his RTA and found a null at approximately 90 hz. He eqd for it and removed most if not all of it. I then heard the room without the null. I must say, I finally was able to come to grips with how significant that is and just how much that can effect the sound you hear. I was previously feeling high & smug on how good it sounded and when we did an a/b test with the taken the null out, the whole sound cleaned up in a most noticeable way. It sounded bloated and thick with the null and MUCH more smooth & natural without it. I got my dbx RTA to see if it would achieve the same thing his Berringer did. It just so happened that the dbx had an eq adjustment right at 90hz so we were in fact able to take it out (Id previously taken any/all outboard items out of the system so Id have just the straight tube/Peach sound). Today, the dbx is back in the system and yesterday had it on. Even the wife noticed the change in sound, making the comment that although she never thought it sounded bad, she can tell something is different and she now thinks it clearly sounds better. She didnt know what or why though. Mike has been a trove of information & very helpful to me. Every time hes been over Ive learned something. Each time Ive learned something, the overall sound of my system has improved. Saturday, it improved dramatically, thanks to him.

---------------- On 8/14/2005 5:29:19 PM sunnysal wrote: the rule is; Pink is bad and Blue is cool...LOL, tony BTW not trying to shoot anyone down, hope it didn´t seem like that, I just didn´t want coytee worrying about something that is pretty normal, some would say "cool" ---------------- Well I'm back I'm not terribly concerned as much as I'm very intrigued. With my KT-90's, they have a consistant glow. The glow is clearly the glass. The glow disappears when the power is turned off. With the 2A3, the glow is more of a cloud inside the tube. It will also blink out and blink back on with no discernable pattern relative to the music. The glow disappears when the power is off.

Dangit anyways... Now I'm sitting here at work LISTENING to Speed King. Good thing it's Friday & Boss is gone

---------------- On 8/12/2005 8:17:49 AM Colin wrote: so I am guessing that what you are seeing is reflection from the curved insdie of the glass.... ---------------- If in fact it's a reflection (which it may be), then that infers it'd likely be the glass fluorescing? If the glass has what ever impurities in it to cause it to glow... wouldn't it glow ALL the time rather than flicker off? I mean, would you expect that if you turn lights out, have a UV light on and your shirt is glowing...that it (shirt) would flicker OFF even though the UV light is still on? Life seemed so much more simple when I had no clue about tubes and their idiosyncrasies

Wright 2A3 amps I know now that tubes can flouresce. The tubes in my Jolida amp will glow but it seems that the glass itself is glowing, sort of like how your shirt glows when a UV light is turned on. What I found different about this was the glow in the 2A3 tubes seemed to be INSIDE the tube, as though the gas inside was glowing. Also, (drawing an analogy) you've seen a neon sign before where a section of the neon flickers in an on/off fashion rather than a "glow off/glow on" fashion (did that make ANY sense? ) These flick on/off, more like a lightswitch. The glow in the 2A3's was not the glass, but was inside the tube. Furthermore, it flickered. I figured the flickering would be somewhat in sync with the beat as the power went in/out of tube. I didn't notice ANY correlation with that. I gently flicked the tube with my finger to see if perhaps that might affect it....it didn't. I've had these tubes in for while now (Sovetek) and honestly, have not noticed this before. When I turned the power off, the glow went out almost immediately and came back on when I turned the power on. With all that said, I know not to worry about the GLASS of the tube glowing, but since this was inside the tube is it a precursor to anything bad?

---------------- On 8/11/2005 8:50:31 AM BEC wrote: Fini, Keeping the wire size to 16 AWG will help with the soldering job. If you use a larger wire, you will get the terminal hotter. Bob ---------------- If 16 AWG is hunky dory, why does my Khorn have that big thick monster wire to all the drivers? (I say that with the belief that the thick wire to the tweeter is WAY overkill) So is it only marketing? (my suspicion) If the thinner wire is sufficient (realize I just put Al's ES networks in there and need to put some spade ends on the clipped off wires to mount them properly to the screw panel), would it be BETTER for me to swap out that thick wire for some thinner stuff that will fit in the spade lug easier? As it is, I've already cross threaded one of those screws in an attempt to have it make do until I can fix it right. Swapping out to a thinner wire would make the spade bit go a lot easier?

I've got the PM 2.1's and absolutely love them. My wife and sister in law both roll their eyes at my interest in things that make noise. They both have the attitude of "get those little cube speakers, they're small and they all sound the same" So, I set my speakers up on her laptop, put in the Tribute to George concert and cranked it up. She (sister in law... (wife still thinks all big speakers suck)) was AWED. Since her birthday was coming up, I went ahead & bought her a pair & she absolutely LOVES them. She says she doesn't need any "big speakers" now. My ulterior motive of course, is now when she comes to visit, she can only have glowing big eyes for my Khorns & LaScalas. She can't poo poo them nor their sound and be politically correct. Get em, you'll love them

Been diehard Bengal fan since their inception. Had some good years but the last 15 years... well... Seems as though the team is back on the track and headed into the right direction. Glad I got the NFL package on my satellite, get to see all the games. You AFC dudes better watch out for Carson & Company this year, they're gonna kick Baltimore & Cleveland & Pittsburgh's woofers clear through their PIO capacators.

What does early AM have to do with dusting? (still wondering why my wife keeps grumbling something under her breath at me while she's dusting)

I was listening to the Khorns & Al's newly installed ES networks yesterday... then a thought/question hit me: If you have the mixer box (forget what it's called) that allows for a 3-channel setup, if you turn balance controls all left or all right, what happens to the center channel? Since (my understanding) the center channel is +R+L, do I presume the center channel will become equal to which ever side is left at full volume? I seem to recall that the center can be subtractive also, though I don't recall how. If it's the subtractive version, then what happens...if anything? Once you answer this, you may return to the SET battlefront

At the risk of displaying my ignorance, I'm probably not the most qualified to say anything more than "they sound good & I like them" I say that because I don't notice a WHOLE lot of difference between my PP Jolida and 2A3 Wrights when played at a similar level (in the Wrights range). When I push them hard, yes of course, the Jolida keeps on going where the Wrights run out of steam. But for low level listening, they sound awfully similar to my ear. Point being, if something that others find SO disparate in sound, sounds highly similar to me... what's that say about my ears lol. I think I've noticed that the bass seems to be a bit, well perhaps noticeably more present than with the old network. All that said & done, I DID manage to screw it up. I cross threaded on one of the screws that hold the woofer wire onto the network. I've sent email to Al for any "insider tips" on how to get around that before I make it any worse. The screw itself is clearly toast. I highly suspect the receiver that the screw goes into is probably buggered too as I tried a different screw and it didn't want to go in. I didn't try very hard though. I'll certainly be all ears if anyone else has any suggestions.

Thanks guys... Followed your directions Mike, finished the first one, fired it up and saw no smoke I guess that's a good thing Second one is done but for reconnecting the leads to the drivers. We'll be doing some jamming here today while I'm outside. Ya know (just a meandering thought), there ain't nothing like the sound of music while you're out in the yard, knowing the music is working its' way through six inch logs to get to you. When you sit back & hear how nice it sounds through the six inch logs... you just KNOW it's absolutely blistering inside.

Yikes, I have about 30 minutes before I gotta put this away so I know I'm screwed lol Anyways, I've attached a picture of the woofer thing in MY Khorns. Al... your instructions don't seem to illustrate what I have, also the colors are different. The posts on the right are the "input from hf section" input. I'm simply lost on which one to cut & which one to move around. When this is all done, is my main input the LOWER of these two as I currently use, or as I'm suspecting, is my new input up on top in the network? (I've not looked that far yet) Anyways, I appreciate any help on this section. Wife doesn't know I spent the "pocket change" for these so I'm trying to install them while she's gone. To complicate matters, the living room is now a mess & I gotta put it all back together in the next 30 minutes, so I presume I'll check on this sometime Saturday. Thanks

---------------- On 8/4/2005 11:08:37 AM Frzninvt wrote: Coytee you could of at least made it look like a legit BOSE logo, lame but effective I guess. ---------------- Although I DO admit that it was lame, it was also the best I could do given the tools I had at hand. ok..so that's a lame excuse. I'm double lame

Charles, I took some liberty to clear up your picture even more so it's VERY clear for all to see. Hope you don't mind.

I will vouch for Charles packing efforts. My goodies were VERY well packed and arrived 100% intact. Sounds to me like the price on the Academy is a STEAL Charles!!! If I knew you were THAT easy to steal from back when I bought my goodies, I'd tried a bit harder.

Oh, I presume that most of them are made in China/Malaysia/Hong Kong or somewhere in that area. In fact, I'd bet that to find one "made in Japan" would be the minority? And to find one "made in USA"... well, probably be easier to find a living dinasaur. All I'm saying is if "Johnson Company" (or czhtang Fong) makes the Dell or (insert name) brand, then I'd be just as happy buying the parent company's name rather than the branded model. Or am I missing something with my logic there?

Don't know that I've ever heard anyone do Gary Pucket & The Union Gap stuff Woman Woman Young Girl Lady Willpower Over You This girl is a woman now Gentle Woman