nola

. Here are the pics. Not pretty, but hopefully they will get tested late tonight or tomorrow Q: How exactly does one match caps? I don't think the Sonicaps used on my Heritage gear were matched, etc. Mr. Ks caps all had numbers on them, but I have no idea what they mean. Q: If I get the Ctites tweeter and need to attenuate it, should I just use a smaller cap to the tweeter in a AA network or simply buy a volume control (L pad, or some type of potentiometer as found at partsexpress, radioshack, etc) for the Klipsch AA or ALK Uni networks? Q: I tried removing the solder from the inductor. Some flaked off, I got some off with the soldering iron tip. But could not get all of it off. If I did short a loop or 2, how would I know and can it damage anything? As stated on the prior thread, I only soldered 1 autotransformer cnxn, held the others with disconnects, and put the 7.5 uF cap directly into the terminal strip. Any other thoughts appreciated.

After being in Indy and Toronto for over a week I too almost died when I arrived last Sunday night back in New Orleans. Car thermometer read 104 degrees fahrfegnugen, about 41 degrees centipede. In 10 years here it had never read over a 100 before, unless it was broken. As Rosanne RosanaDana, once said......."It's aways something". Just finished making them. I am making some pics smaller in kb size. I will then edit them in PowerPoint and add a few more Qs in a new posting. I did not follow all of Mr Ks directions, but usually tried. I connected the 7.5 uF cap directly ino the terminal strip. Moving the Hovland was easy. As Mr. K said, the cheap hot glue gun sucked and the cap easily pryed off. When reglued, I had better luck. Took 2 of the small glue sticks....oy vey..... Because I almost destroyed an autotransformer by melting it a bit while desoldering a capacitor on a network (while doing recaps a few weeks ago), I purposely tried not to solder these wires. Instead I used extra disconnects to hold the wires in place. I only soldered 1 set of wires to the AT. Bought extra disconnects for attaching the wires to the AT. Shall we say that some of the "attachments" are more creative than others. I had a bad time with poorly designed 14g Philips speaker wire. Yes you can screw up even spkr wire insulation. So most of these connection had to be redone with some 14G "Primary wire" $5.00 for 17 ft at Home Depot (larger strand size, looks like for home or car electrical use). All in all, took 5 nights at a few hours per night. For those of you with teenage kids that are not klutzy, this would make a great father-son, mother-daughter project. One of the engineers at the hospital said Mr. Ks price for the kit was extremely fair given the couple of things he looked up. You see, I dropped solder on one of the inductors and couldn't scrape it all off and I had an almost oopsie with another inductor. So I wanted to know how much a new one would cost, just in case I shorted the loops on 1 (.2 mH) and broke a wire on the other (1.3 mH). I did test all 6 inductors such as I could. All read .6-.8 ohms across and all read the 9v battery as about 9v. So at least 1 of the litz wires is ok per inductor. As always, the folks on the forum are super. I again wish to thank Mr. K. Pics will follow in a new thread.

Thanx for the replies At least I don't feel like a @#$%%^> now. BTW the Dremmel type tool kit was just a few dollars on sale at Harbor Freight. I had poor luck with small sandpaper sheets and the soldering iron. Is there a way to test the integrity of the components soldered onto the board? Maybe testing the volts or ohms across the inductor or a soldered portion of the inductor / components would let me know that the electrical connection is within spec - but I don't know what values are to be expected via my multimeter, especially on partially or wholly soldered portions of the network. I have 1.5v and 9v batteries. I tested my homemade Audioquest intereconnects this way (volts, 9v battery) and heritage spkr components (ohms) this way. I am around the step for figure 31 now. Most of the caps are in. The resistor and last 3 solders for the caps are not done yet. None of the transformer solders are done. One 1 wire of each inductor is currently soldered. The other is only tinned. As always, any thoughts appreciated and thanx for the hand holding. That's what makes this place so great (and why I try to answer some Qs too - however much of a noob I am). NOLA (whoo-wheee is it hot in the South now)

1st - I want to thank Mr Al K. for shipping the kit about a month ahead of what I expected. I am more than 1/2 way thru. Not everything went according to his nice directions. The soldering tip was usually nasty. The glue gun often gave 1 tiny bead. Etc. I think I tinned the multistrand "Litz" inductor ends properly. Had a terrible time removing the red coating. The soldering iron kept getting sso nasty. So I have 1 or 2 "funky" tips. The rest I cleaned off with a Harbor Freight equiv of a Dremmel tool with a coarse tip. Not pretty, but seemed ok. A few of the wire tips were less red than others. However, some the wires had lots of excess length from the coil area to where I solderd the tips. So 2 Qs: if I messed up on cleaning off 1 or 2 of each of the 6-8 strands in the inductor wire (Solen .2 and .3 mF) is that a big problem? Is the "excess"ok to leave as the wire is not coiled now? (It would be a real pain to cut, de-insulate the tips, and re solder.) I can add pics if you folks want. Thx

Came across this by accident. In light of Indy Fest and many heavy speakers.......hope it's ok to post on this old thread. Check out the 2nd room pic on pg 2 of the thread. WOW Colter are you drooling? 1 room: 4 Khorns, 2 LSs, 2 Cornwalls, 2 Heresys. me: 1 room, 2 KHs, 2 LSs, 1 Acad. But can also add another Acad and 2 Heresys to the pot. Call, Queens high, full house, what have you got.... OK GLA51, your stuff is bigger than my stuff. But no jubilees nor MCMs? HEHEHE......LOL btw, GLA51, are you still with us??? NOLA (Pic with Stanley Cup in Toronto o Friday. Do I hear new Avavtar?)

Came across this by accident. In light of Indy Fest and many heavy speakers.......hope it's ok to post on this old thread. Check out the 2nd room pic on pg 2 of the thread. WOW Colter are you drooling? 1 room: 4 Khorns, 2 LSs, 2 Cornwalls, 2 Heresys. me: 1 room, 2 KHs, 2 LSs, 1 Acad. But can also add another Acad and 2 Heresys to the pot. Call, Queens high, full house, what have you got.... OK GLA51, your stuff is bigger than my stuff. But no jubilees nor MCMs? HEHEHE......LOL btw, GLA51, are you still with us??? NOLA (new photo with Stanley Cup from Friday in Toronto, do I hear new Avatar?)

Hello all On a rainy afternoon in Toronto. Well, I had a blast last weekend. Michael's hospitality was wonderful and he managed not to have a heart attack while stressing out at the park. It was fun to be a roadie-once. Roger was also great having us over at the house. Klipsch folks were nice too. These are things I will never be able to do in the French Quarter-can't have everything. The friendship and fellowship were worth the travel schlep. "We'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when........."

thx we have until 6 14, when sale ends. btw - are you having any mind blowing or (sub blowing ( ) events next weekend? it was fun last year and your family was wonderful in letting us trapes through your lovely place.

Micheal, Just let us know what to do and we will be glad to do it. Do you want frozen burgers from Sam's Club, a crawfish boiler from "the store", etc )

GotHover, Thank you. I just tried it. My $3 on sale Harbor Freight Multimeter read 0.4-0.5 ohms when "shorted". Perhaps the pointy contact tips needed a better and non dusty or clean surface to read. Also found that using little alligator clips usually solved the problem at the spkrs, the K 77s being most difficult to reach in the LSs. Variations did occur when reversing tips on the speaker inputs etc, but the spread always seemed to be under 1 ohm. Although I am not done yet with the 8 spkrs, I have the following readings so far: Spkr Network Driver Ohms - connected to network Ohms - not connected to crossover network LT Khorn 1975 AA K 77 6.6-6.7 6.6-6.7 Stock K 55 V 0.9-1.0 11.1-11.7 K 55 M with ALK Trachorn, not connected to network, 10.6 (I have it sitting on top of an intact KH, and tilted down a bit) Woofer, tested at network and on outer side of woofer box (never unsealed) 2.6 3.7-3.8 RT Khorn, not tested yet (network not recapped yet as it sounds equal to redone LT side. Caps were same cylinder shape and type as Sonicaps- ie, not spam can caps. Perhaps these AAs were redone before my 1988ish aquisition of the KHs) LT LaScala 1979 AA, not tested yet. Not recapped yet. Spam can caps K 77 RT K 77 6.9-7.1 6.9-7.3 tweeter K 55 V RT K 55V ~1 11.0 squaker / mid with stock K 400 horn Woofer, tested at network and at connector strip on top of bass bin, next to mid part of K 400 horn. Woofer "dog house" never opened. LT woofer RT woofer 3.8-4.2 3.7-4.4 Ohms at spkr wire input LT RT 160s, minute later - 60s, minute later - ~8. Maybe the testing discharged the capacitors? LT Heresy I 1978 E K 77 7.0-7.7 7.1-7.9 RT K 77 6.8 6.9-7.5 tweeter K 55 V 0.8 10.8-11.1 RT K 55 V 0.9-1.0 10.6-10.7 squaker / mid with K 700 horn K 22 E 7.3-7.5 7.5-7.6 RT K 22 E 7.4-7.5 7.4-7.5 woofer NB: on Heresy Is, E networks were mounted on the opposite side walls between the 2 cabinets. Workmanship was first rate. The soldering on the E networks was first rate and good quality wire was used. By comparison the H IIs are poorly crafted and the round cup networks put PWK to shame. After recapping, despite the blown H II tweeter, the H I and IIs sound more alike than they did before the recaps. I forgot to listen critically to the H Is before and during the recap process. As the H IIs sounded quite similar before and after recaps, I think the caps were bad on the H Is. I am surprised by the closeness in sound between H Is and H IIs now, although I can still distinguish them. I guess workmanship and sound quality are not so closely related. Thus, the low cost beater H IIs were a bargain. All of my Heresys may end up as surround spkrs between main room and bedroom. But I am now tempted to make my bedroom set up: H Is front, Acad center, H IIs rear, RWS-15 sub. That would leave main room: KHs front, Acad center, and LaScalas rear (current set up). WF-34s would be left over and unused. LT Heresy II ?1985-1986 Round cup crossover network All readings at driver not connected to network K 76 K -no reading, will need new diaphragm, already talked to Bob Crites. Titanium repl were rec'd. RT 8.9 ohms Tweeter K 53 K LT 11.7 RT 12.3 Mid / squaker with K 701 horn Woofer (can't read markings from the back on LT) LT ~8, but readings were all over the place. RT was previously replaced before I bought them in Sept 2008, K24E - as read using a mirror-, 6.8-6.9 and 8.0. I think 1 set of reads was with network connection. You can drive yourself nuts doing this, but at least I know / think my rig is back to factory spec. Also put in Crites washers at some of the K 55s (H Is and RT LS so far. H Is looked good, but RT LS washer was a bit stiff.) Took about 7.5 to 7.75 rotations to reseat the K 55Vs. The LSs were more tightly sealed by about half a rotation, over the H Is. Also had bug parts at the joint between the LS K 55 V driver and K 400 horn.

BE36 I have some similar gear and an idea similar to yours. I have KHs and LSs, late 70s. Recapping 1 AA network with Sonicaps from Bob Crites. These will be used on the LSs. I will get ALK Unis for the KHs. I now have 2 MC240s, each with different tubes, but with similar sound (only use 1 currently). My original project idea was to actively biamp the KHs. I also have Adcom amps: 535, 2535, and a 555. None being used currently. (Post Katrina, things were a mess here) However, I have read many postings discouraging this and no-one I have talked to over the phone, etc. has encouraged it. In brief folks say, don't bother biwiring or passive bi-amping; active bi-amping on the Khorn has left many feeling that they spent a lot of time and money for little or no improvement. Perhaps due to the high efficiency of the Heritage line, most any size amp (above say 3 watts) is plenty for any non commercial space / venue. I have to remember to ask folks about this next week in Indy. Perhaps we should chat. Are you going to Indy next week? If not, lets trade numbers by PM. Thx

I got an email from Outlaw Audio. They have the SMS-1 on sale for $399 (I think its usually $550-600 at various places). Has anyone used this or some similar product to set subs up a room? Both of my receivers have a microphone equalizer system, but likely not very robust compared to this, and these systems are for entire 5.1 type setup. Having mult subs in the main room makes using the automated set up in the OA 990, well, a bit of a pain. My ears seem to like things as is. But improvement would always be welcome. And it is 400 bucks.... http://velodyne.com/products/product.aspx?ID=15&sid=437k412n Thx

RE: some Qs AV123 (I have no affiliation and do not own, nor have I ever actually ever heard their subs) has the 15" puppies on sale at 500 each, at least for now. Likely on sale due to hard times. DIY, Do It Yourself. There are multiple places and even entire forums dedicated to DIY subs on the net. A buddie from the local audio club, who is a speaker and amp builder in his free time, has made a 15" driver, 3.5 ft long 24 inch wide cylinder sub. Combined with his bass shakers on the couch - cowabunga baby, it's the bomb !!! Same is true for my duallie 18"s. The cabinet is 2 x 2 x 4 feet in size. About KH size. As DeanG pointed out, a really good sub will not be cheap. Remember we are trying to match high end and large spkrs. Most people on net forurms are not building subs to match spkrs in our league. An 18" cube box, like the RSW-15 that I own, is probably the minimum size that has any hope matching up against Belles, LaScalas or KHorns. My guess is that many of the high end (knowledge-wise) forum members here are or could be DIYers too. DIY group might also include folks at moderate to large churches with a high end church choir. Some of their technical people are very knowledgeable and could assist you. Since I am Jewish, no personal clue Some folks like the semi DIY Dayton stuff at PartsExpress. Also look at MCM electronics, among others, for drivers, parts, etc. But steer clear of anything automotive or marine. HSU and SVS also have forums (I think). However, the avs forums (per craigsub info) might be a good general starting point. Builders of amps might also be able to provide some advice. Danley also makes a ?14' tapped horn. I assume it is awsome, but do not know anyone that has heard it. I never heard any of my subs before buying (save for the demo of the 18" Behringers). I took the risk, and things seem to have worked out just fine. I bided me time and bought my subs at low cost. Madisons were new, all other subs-like most of my stuff-was bought used. Your room will really be important - size, harshness, nodes, etc. Hope this helps.

I think Colin said some great things. If you own Belles, why change. Buy or make some subs (yes DIY) and be done with it. Sub size will also be dictated by the size and harshness of your room. I bought used beat up LaScalas in 1987, got used pretty KHs in 1988 or 89. KHs require space and corners, etc. In my room, etc, the KHs rock. Would they in your room? How would you get them in, etc. They are big and heavy. But, if someone local has some for sale at a good price, why not? KHs are not subs !!!!! Barry White on vinyl in 2 ch stereo on KH, great; with subs, orgasmic. Pls don't expect a non large sub to do justice for the space req for KHs. I suspect dual 12"s or 1 or 2 15"s are the minimum you would need (guessing your room is at least 15' x 15'). A DIY 15", 3.5' long 24" diam cylinder could also be a sol'n-much larger than an SVS cyl sub. Subs: Colin, well said. Pls check out the following: Official Craigsub rankings thread -over a yr old now- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=768150 Along with ACI, Epik, SVS, HSU, and PKW Klipsch (I use the RSW 15 in my ave size bedroom), pls keep in mind those listed below incl. eD and av123 (they put the 15" subs on sale last week for about $500 each), and commercial or pro audio subs (dual 18" drivers/cab, which I use in my very large main room). Hope the advice assists you. The following is copied from the above link (moderator, feel free to delete the stuff below as PWK products not included): The scoring summary ... Here is the scoring summary with the Home Theater score and Music score, respectively shown as (HT-M). Prices and whether the items are available Internet Direct or from a store are now included. Keep in mind that ID pricing will usually be firm, or slightly discounted, where some BM products will see substantial discounts. BM = Brick and Mortar. ID = Internet Direct. ID/SI = shipping included. Elemental Designs A7-900 ($2200 ID/SI): 116 points (63-53) Epik Conquest ($1599 ID): 112 points (60-52) SVS PB13-Ultra ($1499 ID): 109 points (57-52) Epik Castle ($999 ID): 109 points (59-50) AV123 MFW-15 Duals: 109 points (56-53) (note, duals were tested as duals are offered as a package) Creative Sounds Dual SDX-15 driver + Behringer EP-2500 Amp + Behringer DEQ2496 ($1630 ID): 105 points (57-48) JL Audio Fathom 113 ($3500 BM): 103 points (53-50) AV123 MFW-15 ($599 ID): 103 points (53-50) Def Tech Trinity ($3000 BM): 102 points (54-48) Velodyne DD-18 ($5000 BM): 100 points (50-50) ACI Maestro ($2400 ID): 97 points (47-50) eD A5-350 ($715 ID/SI): 96 points (50-46) JL Audio Fathom 112 ($2600 BM): 95 points (45-50) Hsu VTF-3 HO + Turbo ($999 ID): 94 points (47-47) Hsu VTF-3 HO w/o Turbo ($899 ID): 92 points (45-47) Hsu VTF-3 Mark III + Turbo ($799 ID): 92 points (45-47) VMPS VSS ($1650 BM and ID): 92 points (45-47) Epik Valor ($549 ID): 91 points (44-47) Hsu VTF-3 Mark III w/o Turbo ($699 ID): 91 points (45-46) SVS PB12-Ultra: 90 points (47-43) Axiom EP-500 ($1230 ID/SI): 90 points (43-47) Hsu VTF-2 Mark III + Turbo ($599 ID): 88 points (42-46) SVS PB12-Plus/2 ($1299 ID): 87 points (47-40) SVS PB12-NSD ($599 ID): 86 points (43-43) Hsu VTF-2 Mark III w/o Turbo ($499 ID): 86 points (40-46) Rocket UFW-12 ($999 ID): 85 points (provisional) (35-50) Elemental Designs A2-300 ($350 ID/SI): 83 points (44-39) SVS PB10-NSD ($429 ID): 83 points (43-40) Dana Audio 600 ($869 ID): 83 points (36-47) Rocket X-Sub ($199 ID): 78 points (34-44) BIC H-100 ($229 eBay): 78 points (40-38) Rocket Tyke: 60 points (If you care, PM me ... ) Pending subwoofers ... VMPS VSS Powered sub - Early March, 2008 AV123 BMF ... Not sure of date Epik Knight ... Not sure of Date *: The Hsu MBM-12 has been tried with several subwoofers here. We found it to be a good room solution, for times when the best placement with a subwoofer for the deep stuff did not necessarily give the best performance in the 50-80 Hz area. We could not come up with a consistent way of scoring it with the other subs, including the VTF-3 HO. Instead, it is suggested to be look at as a possible enchancement to any subwoofer package. Listening procedures: All listening us done under blind conditions. The panel of listeners include several very experienced audiophiles, some of whom also design and build high end pro audio speakers. The subwoofers were each placed in the identical room position, and eq'ed to have a fairly flat (3 dB window) response curve from 18 Hz and up, when the subwoofer was able to go that "low". Measuring procedures: All measurements are taken at 2 meters/GP from the front baffle of a subwoofer. In the case of a ported sub, the microphone is placed so it is 2 meters from the center of the driver(s) and port. The posted measured results are max "clean" 20 Hz output and the average from 20 to 63 Hz. If it seemed like the amp was the limiting factor in output, "AL" is added to the 20 Hz SPL. The purpose of this information is to help people to quickly look at a variety of subwoofers and get a pair of scores, some performance numbers, and some listening tests describing the characteristics of each subwoofer. Hopefully, this will provide some assistance when researching for a subwoofer purchase. There will be times that a lower rated sub will work better for someone than a higher rated sub. For example, size, or output, in a lower rated sub may make a difference. Listening preferences may also make a difference. If slam is valued over extension, some subs excel at the 30-60 Hz slam. For others, extension will be the most important issue. 1. Elemental Designs A7-900. Listening results: This subwoofer has almost no weaknesses. It presents everything from the deepest pipe organ and movie bass spectaculars to a hard driving bass guitar with an effortless quality that is the best we have heard to date. On the WOTW machines emerge scene, there was nothing but waves of bass that one felt rolling through the room. The standard Steely Dan 2AN disc was tight, tuneful, and the 18 Hz bass present in this disc was easily felt, yet the upper bass regions were agile. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 113.5 dB AL ... 20-63 Hz average: 118 dB AL 2. Epik Conquest Listening results: This subwoofer is hard to distinguish from the A7-900. Once again, pipe organ, the WOTW scene, bass guitar - were all played effortlessly. It is not quite at powerful, nor as visceral, as the bigger eD sub, but it is also an easier sub to live with for some rooms, because it is not quite as large as is the eD. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 111.5 dB AL ... 20-63 Hz average: 116.5 dB AL. 3a. SVS PB13-Ultra Listening results: This subwoofer delivers incredible performance from a moderate sized box. It is almost on par with the larger Conquest and eD subs in terms of delivering palpable bass, and it is as articulate as the standard bearer Fathom 113. A great choice when one is looking for a combination of reasonable WAF and performance. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 108 dB ... 20-63 Hz average: 113.5 dB 3b. Epik Castle Listening results: Another subwoofer of reasonable size which also gives a terrific performance. It loses some in articulation to the SVS, but also has a bit more authority on powerful movie scenes. It is a solid choice when one wants a large slice of the Conquest/A7-900 performance in a package that is easier to live with. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 108.5 dB ... 20-63 Hz average: 115.5 dB 3c. AV123 MFW-15 Listening results: Pairing two MFW-15's does exactly what one would expect, it adds a signifigant amount of slam to the areas in which the single unit excelled. What a pair of MFW-15's does above 20 Hz is what makes it the 3rd alternative in the $1500 and under category for excellent performance for the $$$. On music, it is tight, clean and tuneful. It is the other sub combo the brought the Steely Dan 2AN disc to life. On movies, one will experience room shaking bass that is visceral, with the best slam of any subwoofer in its class. It is overshadowed below 20 Hz by the Castle and Ultra, and it will be up to the listener to decide which of the 3 "109 pointers" works best in his system. 4. Creative Sounds DIY Dual SDX-15 Listening results: After carefully adjusting for a proper shelving curve (kudos to Mark Seaton for the tutorial on the 2496), this subwoofer gave a credible performance. The only real downside is that the new Castle from Epik is a superior performer in a smaller package for less money and no labor required. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 104 dB ... 20-63 Hz average: 115 dB 5a. JL Audio Fathom 113 Listening results: The built in ARO system makes calibration into one's system a snap. The Fathom allows the well heeled audiophile to get an unmatched combination of powerful bass and extension with bass quality that matches the finest monitor speakers, all in a package that will fit in a room of high quality furniture. The panel of listeners was shocked that something so compact could deliver such visceral bass. This is the first subwoofer that delivers on the promise of small size with true subwoofer performance. Measured results ... 20 Hz: 102 dB ... 20-63 Hz average: 112.5 dB 5b. AV-123 MFW-15. Listening results: The MFW-15 amazed the panel by largely matching the PB13 Ultra in all musical areas with the exception of pipe organ. Bass is deep, tight and powerful, with no overhang at all. The cabinet work done on this subwoofer is absolultely stellar, especially in its price range. By stellar, we mean just how inert it is. The cabinet barely vibrates during the most powerful passages, and this helps the MFW-15 to get its excellent musical rating. It is, as an earlier graph shows, very linear in its response curve, all the way to 100 Hz. It is in the area of slam an linearity that allows this subwoofer to match more high priced units. The Steely Dan disc on this subwoofer is a bass head's dream, with a lot of the panel requesting to hear it again after the test. Stanley Clarke was also as crystal clear on the MFW-15 as with any subwoofer we have had. Measured results... 20 Hz - 105 dB ... 20-63 Hz average: 112 dB

As a bachelor, I would be happy to crash at your pad. PS, is the place certified earthquake proof by the State of California? Please PM or email me with your taste in Scotch / Whiskey / steaks, etc. so that mass quantities may be dutifully consumed. Thank you kind sir. Would expect to leave Peoria by noon Friday and leave for Toronto early Sunday.

Hello All: I have to decide which day to come up. What doings are there on Friday and where (besides the flooding caused by canonball Colter....). Also, is the Klipsch corporate office and such going to be open to us. If so, at what time, etc. Have to plan this due to getting airline tickets with 7 day advance purchase and finding a place to stay. If not much is going on Friday am, may fly to Peoria Thurs night and drive to Indy Friday afternoon. Thanx

I have a pair of "N" Khorns, so they should be from 1975. While recapping the AA network, I decided to check the Ohms across the input leads to the drivers. Bob Crites has noted that the readings might become bad with age, etc. Are the following values normal / ok for these drivers? K 77 tweeter, reads as 6.6 to 6.7 ohms, regardless of physical connection to AA network. k 55 v mid/squaker driver (to stock horn; smooth outer surface) reads as 0.9 to 1.0 ohms while connected to the AA network. 11.1 to 11.7 Ohms when not connected to AA network. Quite a difference. K 55 M driver for ALK trachorn reads 10.6 ohms, not connected to AA netork. I was told the K 55 Ms were 4 yrs old. I unscrewed the door to the woofer, but the ?gasket held tight and I was afraid to pry it loose and then not be sure what or how to reseal it. So i only tested it from the outer wire connector: 2.6 ohms while connected to the AA network, 3.7-3.8 ohms when not connected to the crossover network. Moderate difference. Input wires from the McIntosh MC240 amp read about 180 Ohms at the spkr input strip. For ease of testing, I ran 8 foot test leads out from the Khorn and AA network. I placed the ALK trachorn on top of the Khorn and tilted it down a bit. The ?timbre? was slightly different form the stock horn and driver. Seemed slightly louder too, when A - B testing it to the stock driver and metal horn. Didn't really seem to be a big difference. I only listened to a few things, though. Some soft - Dianna Krall, some hard - Led Zep. Both on DVD. MC240 tube amp. I ran the music with all 3 drivers connected per speaker. May try records and a SS amp later this week. Is there much of a difference between the K55 V and M drivers that might account for this lack of a major difference / improvement? Could also be that my 48 yr old ears are not what they used to be. I recapped what I thought were the original KH AA networks: did only the LT one for now. My "T" LaScalas from 1979 have AA networks that look like the pics on Bob Crites website. But the AAs on the 75 KHs had different appearance. The caps were labelled: tan 12 uF +/- 5% / 200v, and I could not read the labels on the red-brown ?2uFs. They were solid / cylindrical - not oil filled cans. I wonder if they had been mod'd before I bought them (around 1988). Anybody, feel free to chime in. Between the Crites / Sonicaps recaps - not much change in sound - compared to the untouched RT KH, and the ALK trachorn tests (again, LT side only for now), I was a bit disappointed. Not a big change in sound. So: maybe the old caps were good - how do you test caps? Why the lack of major change with the wooden horn? Did a prior owner mod the AAs? Thanx from New Orleans

I have a pair of H IIs, bought in Septermber, they should be from 1985-6. Round cup crossover network: a tangle for certain. Can't wait to recap these. I have the Crites Sonicaps. I decided to check the Ohms across the input leads to the drivers. Bob Crites has noted that the readings might become bad with age, etc. Are the following values normal / ok for these drivers? K 76 k tweeter: No ohm reading on my multimeter. I thought It was working previously. I will have to recheck. No clear red dot to tell polarity, but the more reddish solder spot has a black wire attached to it. Does that mean the tweeter is bad? I will try to open up the other H II to check the other tweeter, but running low on space in the den. k 53 k mid/squaker driver (to stock k701 horn; smooth outer surface) reads as 11.7 ohms while not connected to the crossover network. I cannot read the name of the woofer driver. About 8 ohms, but the numbers jumped all over the place on the multimeter. Not connected to the xover network when tested. Thanx from New Orleans

I bought my 80GB PS3 5-6 months ago. It offers tons of choices for digital output and I do not know how the PS3 decides which to send out, since I basically highlighted almost all of them. Sound seems fine vs my JVC combo DVD/VHS deck or Sony BD-301 in my bedroom rig (never tried a dedicated high end CD playerr in my WF-34 bedroom rig, as I do not own a high end CD player-and given various specs, I strongly ponder if anyone could really tell any sign diffs-esp considering costs $$-on my rig). When I tried googling my Qs, I did not find any concise matter of fact replies (beyond: use HDMI if possble to pass thru the latest Dolby and DTS audio offerings-for which, I think, there are very few recordings available at ths time; optical or coax digital are the same but both have less bandwidth than HDMI-only appears to be an issue with newest Dolby and DTS lossless offerings, and use L/R RCA analog outputs dead last-but without stating scientific reason). Many of the postings were contradictory. I do not own any SACDs, etc. Perhaps if I did, as some have noted on various forums, the diffs might be notable. The lack of clarity and science in many of the internet postings lead me to seek clarity here, as some of our members are both audio and technofiles. The numerous contradictory postings also makes me wonder if this isn't a case of the Emporers New Clothes. Perhaps, many of these digital choices are so good that average rigs might not be able to discern real world diffs. I tend to find greater diffs when choosing a DSP mode on any of various pre/pros (Outlaw Audio 990-no HDMI), or receivers (OA 1050, Onkyo 805-outperforms the much older OA1050), than when separating out anything much over 44kbps. Due to loss of the bedroom cable box post Katrina, I only have basic cable directly to my 2008 Sony 55" rear projection tv. I can output audio from the tv to the 805 via optical cable. The 805 can decode dolby 2.0 and 5.1 from digital tv channels (and plays them as such-unless I specifically override the settings-and no idea how I came to set up the settings), but for non digital channels, the output sound registers on the Onkyo 805 as PCM 44. When comparing network stations in analog vs digital, I think the sound is better off the digital-but then again, maybe the 805 can mess around with the digital signal better.

Sorry for the ultimate in noob Qs: can somebody explain exactly what the CD player / DVD / etc output diffs are between using: 1. HDMI vs SPDIF (optical or coax digital)? I think they are supposed to be much "better" then RCA L and R out. 2. For digital output settings: diffs between bitstream and PCM, etc, and all of the different sampling rate frequencies. How do you know which settings are "best" and is there really that much of a diff between diff settings? I too have a PS3 and an Onkyo 805, bedroom and Oppo dvd and outlaw audio (non HDMI) 990 pre/pro in the main room. thx

Mr P B: Noob Q: What is the neato picture showing us? And what are the 2 yellow lines in the middle. Thx

Once again, WOW In my case front and right side (long) walls are brick and lots of bookcases etc, floor is uneven / undulating stone with a bit of carpeting, high ceiling is sloped with thick wooden beams and sort of a weird cardboard/thin plywood between the beams (c.1969), lt side is a mess-french doors, bookcases, furnace closet etc, rear is the kitchen with cabinets, appliances, etc. No idea how to model that. However, as stated, your ears will figure it out. As per placing subs, with babies this big, placement is not easy. In my case, I simply plunked them down in convenient spaces and hoped for the best. Seems fine on the den carpet and couch but whole rear of the place seems like a dead zone - likely cancellation I guess. Also, I never messed with horizontal vs vertical placement or rear or wall aiming of the drivers. I know some subbs fire towards the floor or closest wall. I had a major issue with cages for the Madison Amp 18" drivers being to weak for their weight. Thus I was afraid to reorient them off vertical. For no specific reason I have the RT sub facing the couch and the mid left sub faces towards the front and short brick wall and TV, about 45 degrees off from the couch and about 30 degrees off from the carpet center in the den. I will have to look up the cardiod stuff later on. ) BTW are you thinking of coming to Indy in 2 weeks. Be cool to meet. Your friend NOLA in the Big Easy - my feet are dry, the crawfish are boiling, Jazz in the street - life is good.

Hello all and hello Amy Unger: Please put me down for what doings are at Klipsch on ? Friday. Anybody considering letting me have some couch space could benefit from mass quantities of Mardi Gras beads, prime steaks, and scotch (not that I would know about alcohol, living in the French Quarter). I can fly up late Thursday (if arrival would be real late, I would just get a hotel so as not to bother you) or early Friday, and would leave late Sat or very early Sunday. Just be kinda nice to hang with someone. If anyone is thinking of splitting a hotel room, cool too. Also, any nice B and B's in north Indy? Thx. Feel free to email me or PM. )

Wow, a 1000 words is indeed worth a picture. That seems to be in keeping with the idea of cancellation, etc. However, if the summation does occur where we lie as couch potatoes or while eating dinner it might be nice indeed, even if the bass (or other frequencies) get cancelled out elsewhere-bad for parties. I take it you would disagree with the following scenario (full range 2CH stereo): turntable / radio / CD player, L/R out to variable gain tube amp (allows some control of volume), "Y" split output signal - for each L or R run 1 interconnect to stereo amp (again maybe with gain control to control volume, like my MC240s) and run KHs/LSs or Heresys full range in true stereo; the other interconnect to sub amp (1 per side) and use sub amp controller to x out frequencies above some point or other, say 60 (lg KH spkr) to 120 Hz (for smaller, say Hersesy or Icon series spkr). This technique would allow for relatively clean signal path to the spkrs and allow full range sound reproduction. Probs: where to set cutoff for subs, to avoid duplicating main spkr abilities and the afore mentioned prob of sound cancellation. Mr P B, (noob Q) is sound cancellation just a problem in low freq, or is it a real and true problem acrss the 20-20,000 Hz range? I ask this, because I don't remember anyone complaining about cancellation when running regular spkrs full range - but without any subs. Also, with older recordings (vinyl, reel to reel, 1940s to around ?mid 1960s), the tracks were laid down in an era before subs and with low power output tube amps. Therefore, most end users (folks at home) were using spkrs akin to the heresy. Thus, I would guess that the audio engineers of the day laid down the record or RTR tracks with that in mind. I have always been told to listen to my older records in plain old stereo, without subs, because of this. (But Barry White and that voice demand maximal bass). What are the thoughts of forum members in this regard? Mr P B / Colter, do you think my ability to tell directionality is due to sub cabinet vibration or adjacent brick a brack vibrating at higher than bass frequencies? Also please tell us about your thought on the cardiod or directional sub trick. In our local audio club, we have a few speaker and tube amp builders, along with Mr Gray (of the Power Company). One of the guys (hangs out on the Bottlehead amp forum, but not here) also builds single driver, near full range units. He also built a 15" driver 3 1/2 ft long by 24" wide cylinder sub. It is beyond awesome in his L shaped main room. In fact that 1 sub in his room is even a contender for "umph" compared to my dualie 18"s. Mind you, our rooms are completely different and neither space nor adding an addl sub is an issue for me-quite unlike the limitations most folks have. He also uses bass shakers mounted onto his chairs/couch. The overall bass effect is incredable. Maybe the bass shakers of some type or other (plus amps, etc) will be my late 09 or winter 2010 project.

My main room rig has 2 KHs with an Academy centre. I bought a 2nd Acad this past summer-with the 1 acad below the 60" rr proj tv, the sound source seemed too low, but never put the 2nd one above the tv. However, you can test this approach even by using 2 small computer speakers, either near each other or (as in my case) maybe above and below the tv (which, since I literally just thought of this, haven't done yet). (Haven't really used it much, due to construction here). Many warned me not to do this because of ?different height related wave form timings. If this was true, perhaps a Behringer 110 shark or ?deq 2496could be used for time delay corrections. At this point, I am thinking of putting a LS in the centre, either on its side (maybe pulling the horns out and moving them on top of the tv) or regular vertical. Pure conjecture: I believe the "sound" ?"timbre" of the LS (or even Heresy) cabinet is in part due to the way the cab vibrates as sound waves are hitting it from the components. In these, the base is a bit fixed, while the sides and top can ususally move freely. If you put a brace across the LS, based on what other have posted, that will change the sound, although perhaps, without apparent "degredation". If move any of these onto their sides, you are placing the spkr in positions not ?fully tested? by PWK. My guess is that putting the entire side in solid contact with the floor will alter the sound the greatest. Therefore, if I put my LS on its side for centre ch use, I plan to raise it off the floor with maybe 4, 4" cubed size wooden blocks, 1 at each corner and perhaps put some rolled up towels between the spkrs and the blocks to cut down on floor-spkr vibrations effecting the cabinet. That way, most of the length and width of the LS is free to "vibrate" at will. Also remember, that a H or a LS on its side will have the horns pointing quite low, perhaps too low unless tilted up or requiring you to move them out of the cab. Likely an accoustical problem with the H, but not with my version of the 70s LS as the woofer cab is its own box (although the wood enclosure does include the horns area). I thought about pulling the horns out of my LS and placing them on top of the TV and trying to keep the spkr driver to my ear distance the same for all 3 drivers. Just my 2 cents