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illthreat

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Everything posted by illthreat

  1. i'm wondering the same. I'd love two of them for music.
  2. ? Dude, I appreciate the replies.. But I'm asking about the OUTLAW AUDIO M200 MONO BLOCK Amps. Thanks! CHris
  3. Hello, I'm looking at the M200 mono block amps by Outlaw. The are rated at a conservative 200wpc. Is this too much for my new maple RF5? I am running a Yamaha HTR-5280 at the moment.. about 110wpc I believe.. I should notice a cleaner sound with the outlaw, right? I love the yami, just need/want/like a little more umph... Thoughts? \ Thanks! CHris
  4. descent price.. but you could get rf5 for a little more. keep looking .. be patient.
  5. the ati vs. nvidia war will rage on for quite a while. it's personal preferance. chev. / ford toyota / honda biwire / non biwire ati / nvidia etc...
  6. ---------------- On 1/6/2005 2:30:39 AM DrWho wrote: Was your old monster cable tarnishing or anything like that? What color were the copper strands? ---------------- The cable may have been. But I stripped new ends before using them again. ---------------- On 1/6/2005 2:30:39 AM DrWho wrote: I have heard discussion in the past talking about how the woofer's tendancy to keep moving causes some electrical flow in the wires. I think it's called "back EMF"? Anyways, isolating this from the HF section is supposed to be an advantage to bi-wiring. I understand how bi-amping (which requires bi-wiring) can get rid of back EMF, but I can find no electrical explanation as to how bi-wiring could possibly make a difference. One way you could A/B bi-wiring versus normal would be to set your speakers up for bi-wiring and then have someone attach and reattach the binding posts and see if you can hear the same large difference. It sounds to me like you've simply got a better connection with the new wire. ---------------- I have read quite a bit in the last few weeks, both for and against it. I don't see there being a clear cut answer unfortuneately. Except my ears. I agree. Your comparison would give results. Give it a try all you skeptics. I also agree that it COULD be simply the fact that I have newer and better wire. Like I said, I'm happy. I know what I hear. And it's not my wallet screaming that these are better, because I simply could care less about the money. It's all about quality. And these cables have given me better quality hands down. Best Regards, Chris
  7. i gotcha. that must have been fun hooking up. ;P
  8. joe, what did you hook the other 2 cables per wire up to? the b channel?
  9. Yes. One end is terminated into two banana the other into four. it looks like this: (attachment)
  10. except in your drawing, the crossover is 1 pc. Divide it in two and it's quite different. The highpass uses the infinite resistance of the opposide side of it's filter (low) to "draw" what it needs from the amp. The low pass does just the opposite. When the woofer stops moving, it's energy is keep away from the high pass side for a lot longer time. Providing a better image. One mechanical benefit is that you can tune the speakers also. By using a thicker wire on the low pass if you are a little bright. Disclaimer: i know what I hear. It's def. better sound. Do a comparison if you don't believe me. But, eh, I don't care either way. I'm not trying to sell anything. Just share what I've experienced. Like I stated, it sounds better. I am also using better cabling. So who knows. I needed new cables, I bought them, I'm using them, I'm happy. Thought perhaps someone may want to try this for themselves. If you don't like the info, don't bash it without discussing it.
  11. ---------------- On 12/28/2004 1:41:14 PM illthreat wrote: ...that being said. the Biwire was just wire I made into biwire instead of dedicated. I've since bought some Ultralink Ch. Biwire from Omer Humayun of www.ozenterprises.net I'll follow this up when I get the cabling. Best Regars, ---------------- Wow. I just hooked up my UltraLink Challenger Biwire cable. (pretty sure the least $ they offer) Def. Better!! Waaaay better imaging. And a more provound, tighter beat. They are loads better then the Monster XP I was using. So I can't say it's all from the biwire, But I'll NEVER look back. Klipsch RF-5 on steriods. Best Regards & Mega Happy, Chris
  12. i understand you.. good thinking! don't see why they won't shine. chris
  13. oh, and you will know when you find the speaker that is right for you. The rf5 kinda fell into my lap. $960 shipped , full warranty. I love my rf5 I actually forgot about other things that bring me joy in the last week.
  14. ---------------- On 12/30/2004 11:17:35 PM silversport wrote: illthreat: I saw your responses and saw you were looking at the same speakers...only problem is, if I could AFFORD RF-5s, we wouldn't be having this debate...I originally wondered how close the RF-35s and the NEW Synergy F3s were since speaker size, configuration, horn/mid/woofer, cabinet design (different ports) might sound close since the top line Synergys are priced retail below the RF-35s...actual real world sale prices place the F3s SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS lower than the RF-35s...My thinking was of the cake and eat it too variety...thinking I might get real close to the RF-35s while also saving some $$$ so I can buy more stuff...you can't argue with THAT now can you??? Bill (Uh oh....flame suit on...just remember, partly said tongue in cheek ;-) ---------------- I hear you loud and clear. . I was originally looking to spend up to $900/pr. for new speakers. How are you able to get F3? How much are you able to get RF35? How much are you able to get RF5? Don't forget about the SF3 for Vanns.com for $500/pr. (sorry , i know you just wanted more to think about! ) I can assist if you like.
  15. the f3 derives from the sf3 which was a Rf3 replacement, blah blah.. I just was in this same hunt. I ended up with RF5s and I'm not looking back. RF has real wood and titanium drivers, and the cm cones.
  16. exactly like stephen said. computers now a days aren't as bad as they were 6 years ago. upgrading is much more bareable these days. just have to start with something worthwhile. I built this current machine 22 months ago. And only upgraded to another 160GB hard disk and better graphics card (didn't "need" it). the current trend seems to be about 3 years or better. But these current machines will be fine for the avg. person for years more than that.
  17. psg, I believe he is referring to throughput. Best Regards, Chris
  18. Colin, Check out the AMD 939 chipset. The 3500 is the best bang for buck right now. also have a look at Lite On's 1663 @ http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=27-106-960&depa=1 that drive and combo with 100 blank dvd bundle they have. Great buy @ $100 (drive and 100 blank dvd) take care, chris
  19. Nice system! Mine is very similar: XP 2700+, 1GB DDR 2700 (kingston, but getting some OCZ) Asus A7N8X Deluxe MB (i love asus mobo) NVidia BFG 6800 GT OC 420MHz/1.20GHz (had a NVidia 4800Ti before this) + with Arctic Cooler NV5 Silencer Maxtor 80GB & Maxtor 160GB, 7200rpm, 8mb cache Asus/Lite On Optical Drives Glad I could help you out!
  20. ---------------- On 12/28/2004 2:55:30 PM verso wrote: Illthreat, Thanks for the reply! My processor is the same as yours I believe? It has a FSB of 333MHz (AMD Athlon XP 2700+) Not sure what the FSB of my RAM is though? It's Crucial 512MB - two sticks of it - when I purchased the components for this computer they were about $80 a stick. I have the ASUS "A7V8X-X" which has a FSB of (according to NewEgg) 333/266/200MHz. So does that mean it supports a processor and RAM with no more than 333MHz? So a processor with a FSB of 400MHz would not work with that motherboard? I'm still a little confused, so what determines the FSB? Is it set in the BIOS settings or something? Ah, I should do some Googling! - Steven ---------------- Yes, same proc. 2700XP+ Try to get some specs of your RAM. If nothing else, open the case and have a look on the RAM itself: DDR2700 is 333MHz. DDR3200 is 400MHz. and so on. I would presume your RAM is at least 2700 (333MHz.) Your mother board will only support up to 333MHz. You are limited to running this speed FSB. This does Not mean you cannot purchase and install something like 400MHz. You would just be limited to running it at 333MHz. So, possible waste of money looking at FSB alone. Check with Asus. http://www.asus.com for BIOS upgrade for your mother board. You may be able to upgrade your BIOS which may inturn upgrade your FSB to a higher (400MHz.) FSB. The FSB is determined by your setting in the BIOS. But setting a FSB higher than your equip will either cause damage of lock-up. You must correctly set the BIOS for your gear. So, in other words, your gear ultimately determines your FSB. But you can set it higher/lower, etc.. I wouldn't recommend this. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask. This was my 1st calling in life, and I don't mind sharing any info that can help a fellow Klipsch member. This forum has an excellent attitude and I am pleased to contribute in any way I can. Best Regards, Chris
  21. are you refering to an FM modulator? If so, I'd prefer a direct hookup. Far better sound. Peace!
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