brennyE

I have found myself bored with a digital camera, so I thought i would use my amazing ([]) camera skills to post a few happy snaps of the half finished sub and the listening room. Please no one have a fit because the subwoofer will be moved to a larger room when my family moves houses. here we have the unpainted, but ready to be run subwoofer, with a cd leaning against it for scale. I never thought I would buy a car audio subwoofer (or a PA amplifier for that matter [:|]) But the discount price I got (half price) and the massive magnet sold me. It is sealed at the moment, but if I am unhappy with the spl this will be changed!

I would go the tc sounds LMS driver. because of the nice Xmax, and the whole idea of keeping a constant Bl up towards excursion limits.The LMS series are supposed to sound very, very good! all that being said, please dont hurt me The Ear []!!! The JL driver is great to.I just like the whole TC package: the looks, performance and technology.

I watched some excursion vids for the JL w7........INSANE! that things looks like it could cause body limbs tear off without warning at full tilt [:|]

I love B&W ( although I can only afford the 600 series ) every time I hear them I want to buy them then I go home a listen to Klipsch and it makes me want to get bigger/better Klipsch. What a mess[:S]!

KORN!...........[:$]

im situated in Australia, Victoria and have been searching for a pair of KLF-30's for some time..........but to no avail [:'(]

wow that 2nd order high pass adds alot of gain! is it safe to place it at 45hz at around 6db, or would this be pushing the mechanical limits of the subwoofer to far? Remember though I will have a high pass on the sub at 30 hz, thus cutting out everything from underneath (this option is intergrated into the amplifier) would this cutting of the extreme low frequencies allow me to play with the plus 35hz stuff? This sub doesnt need to dig down mind blowingly deep, it just has to keep a tad of Low frequency impact.

All I know is I had a RW-12 and my friend has an RW-10 (both used BASH amplifiers) we pushed both of them hard never had a problem (i had mine for a year, my friend still has his RW-10) you cannot say that just because an amplifier uses BASH topology it is riddled with problems, because that just like saying all amplifiers using MOSFET's on the output stage are unreliable (which is far from the truth mind you!) I know the promedia systems have had problems, but I don't think you can take this problem and label it on other things that are designed completly different. Hope you both enjoy your SUB-10's!

He hehehehe! We have gone from generic Home theatre in a box 6" -woofers- to high end, high excursion JL audio subs. lol I think you guys would try talking a homeless guy into buying a ferrari[]

Corners can make a subwoofer sound overly "boomy" which draws to much attention to the subwoofer. Although placing a subwoofer in a corner also reinforces the output. I can recommend placing your subwoofer in a corner, as long as you do not bury it right in there. You can fine tune it by moving it in and out of the corner. The best method I find is to place your subwoofer on your listening position, play a deep bass song through it and then crawl to each of the possible locations you can place it and hear what it sounds like. The general rule I use for crossing over mains to a sub is to set the crossover at one octave higher than the mains can repreduce, so around 80hz for you. This is just a general rule though, which is supposed to give you a starting point. I am not familiar with your mains, but as per usual I suggest letting your subwoofer do all the low down stuff to free your mains up, but you should give both options a try. Good luck and welcome to the forums! []

I bet you cant wait to hook it all up []

To get true deep and powerfull bass I think the diametre of a subwoofer needs to incorperate a large subwoofer driver. The more air you can pump the more bass you get! but as seen with some manufacturers you can have a small sized subwoofer driver that uses a large motor the push that driver further, thus pushing more air. But even the manufacturers who make these small high powered woofers would not even dabble in the region of 6" subwoofers. For reference a basic subwoofer set up using say a 12 inch subwoofer, medium sized ported cabnet and fair amplifier (say 200W) will give you fairly deep base at moderate levels ( this can be argued using many different factors[]) I think you should go have a listen to one of these 6" fake subwoofers then go to your local high quality audio shop and listen to some larger designs. The difference should show you that really, the 6" driver almost doesnt even play bass. Good luck, Brendan PS: see if you can find a 10" 12" and 15" sub all for the same price as each other. they should if built basically the same get louder and deeper as they go up in size.

I have definatly learned from this! next subwoofer project I undertake I am going to make sure the subwoofer driver I am going to buy will do what I want it to do, before I buy it! I think given the results you just told me ( I just calculated it on WIN ISD PRO and got 119db peak at 45hz, alot more believable than my last results) this sub should fullfill the reason it was built. To go fairly loud and whilst doing that go deeper than your average pro audio subwoofer.

Im fairly sure that the amplifier I am getting comes with 2 subsonic filters, one at 30hz and one at 50hz. I might use the 30hz filter which I suppose wouldnt be that detramental to the sound anyway as it begins to fall around 30hz anyways [] As for reaching excursion, the amplifier I am getting should be able to make this driver wheep in anguish because ill be stuffed if I believe the 1200W power handling for the FUSION. 600W is probably pushing it i would be thinking. I noticed that you are using WIN ISD PRO, so I just went out and dowloaded it. I will see if I get different results! Thanks for the quick reply!

ohhhhh ouch 117db...... is that after taking all the variables into consideration (compresion etc) or before? will this sub make a good party sub in your opinion or have I wasted time and money building it? Regards Brendan

since no one else has answered yet I will jump in with what I know. As far as reliability the sub 10 and sub 12 are apparently good, and I havent heard any whining about the amplifiers malfunctioning so I would think you are very safe! As far as BASH amps are concerned I owned a RW-12 for 1 and a bit years using a BASH amplifier and never had a hickup. This RW-12 of mine was used EVERY day that I had the chance to use it, and when it got used it was often pushed to the max clean output it can deliver, so it's safe to say that unreliability is not related to BASH amplifiers []

Yup i entered the drivers Xmax as linear (not peak to peak) to get the results I got back. I also know how big the 130L enclosure will be because I have already built it, braced it and sealed it up, I also filled about 1/4 of the enclosure with accustic stuffing behind the driver. So the box is built (still needs painting, I cant think of a finish for it) and the driver mounted and ready to go. all I need to do is pay of the amplifier from my layby and it shall be ready to go. Another quick question, I read somewhere a while ago that accustic stuffing in a sealed subwoofer enclosure increases the volume of the box that the subwoofer driver "sees" so this means that the enclosure should be calculated as a bigger box? I think there is an equation for working out how much volume it would add. Regards Brendan

thats kewl I thought you may have been implying about your whole systems output capability compared to the sub. but just in case!

I would be happy with just a RSW-15.......why klipsch why didnt you make export versions[:'(]!!! (begins to cry and bang head against wall whilst thinking of the RSW-15's glory)

I just modeled the subwoofer I am putting together on Win ISD. Now I dont have much experience on these programs so I probably input something wrong. I am using a FUSION subwoofer (this sub is NOT for critical listening[]) http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=1&action=view&product_id=31 a 130L enclosure and I have a behringer EP1500 on the way that delivers 1200WRMS bridged into 2 ohms and 900WMRMS into 8ohms. I modeled this on Win ISD with 2 85mm ports tuned to 25hz. The program tells me the subwoofer will give me 125db between 30hz and 100hz and will be 3db down at 25hz...........Now I know this cant be possible with the small amount of money I spent and fairly small enclosure! I know there has to be a draw back somewhere (or two or three.......) and I would like to know what I have done wrong? could I get some one with WIN ISD or another subwoofer modeling program to double check this for me, so I can see what someone else gets? sorry if this is off topic being a DIY project and all but I just had to ask! Regards Brendan

sgking: Thank you all for your input, it is very helpful, Mark great analogy that really makes a lot of sense!! I am looking at bookshelf speakers, RB61 and the RC52 or RC25 for a center channel, however after reading yall's replies I may need to rethink on the center as they are rated at 125w rms, 15w more than my receiver. Any suggestions that may work? Thanks again!! Wow, wow wow hold on! although the rule of having more power than your speakers still stands true, dont let 15W of difference completly make you rethink a speaker! especially when you factor in how efficient Klipsch speakers are you probably wont be using all that power any ways. Keep aiming for that centre channel it will sound great regardless!

Do I have enough power for the 12"? almost all subwoofers on the market (that I can think of) are powered subs (they have internal amplifiers to run their own drivers thus the "powering of the subwoofer is included in the price) this includes the KSW-10 and KSW-12. If you had to go with the KSW series go with the KSW-12 if possible. Bigger amplifier and cone surface will outdo the 10 by a fair distance. Although I have heard people complain about the KSW series, if you got either of the subs you would notice a definate difference in deep bass. Although there are many better subs on the market either sub from the KSW series will improve your current set up in leaps and bounds Regards BrennyE

Hey IMO if you like loads of bass, have loads of bass! even if there is some given formula for how much bass you should have compared to the level of the speakers, who cares if you like the way it sounds! dont let your reciever tell you what to do, remember you are human and iz smarteer then its []

WRMS (the usable part of an AC wave shape) is the unit of measure for all klipsch speakers and most high end audio brands. It is best to have like wuzzer said an amplifier that is capable of overpowering your speakers than under powering them. In almost all scenarios if you approach a sound system and crank the volume towards full it will be the amplifier that will go into clipping before the speakers (causing danger for your speakers. This is evident in my bedroom system powering 2 rf-15's (100WRMS power handling) with a HK3480 rated at 120WRMS each channel (although apparently HK rate their amplifiers lower than they can cleanly deliver) and my amplifier will still give out before my speakers will on any material played (even very loud songs with big low bass lines) Although at this point the speakers are too loud to listen to comfortably and could probably run a fairly large party []

I have wanted a pair of RF-7s for a long time now, but since they are discontinued and I live in Australia (a pain in the @ss place to find second hand klipsch deals) I was wondering if anyone who lives in australia is selling a pair. then instead of having rf-82's as mains I could have rf-7s. ( I live in victoria ) A long shot yes..... but worth a try!