Malcolm

It is hard to tell from your pictures precisely what you have. If you post a shot straight on from the side I can give you a better idea. EV had two retail versions of their tweeter: the T-35 that was teamed up with the SP12, SP12B, etc. woofers, and the TW-35 which had a smaller magnet and was matched with the Wolverine woofers like the LS-12. What you have appears to be an OEM version of the TW-35.

My center is about 6 feet from both the left and right speakers. FWIW I have a very slowly maturing project to build a custom center with the horns in the normal orientation (actually, I think the way it will finally be built will allow the horns to be vertical or horizontal depending on what is needed).

I have a single Heresy on its side for a center. All the others are Heresys in the normal orientation. IIRC the dispersion patter in something like 90° horizontal by 40° vertical. So, rotate that by 90° for a Heresy on its side. In my application, I cannot hear a noticeable difference between the two orientations.

Wow, that sucks! I bet you didn't read all the horror stories here about shipping UPS. Don't get your hopes up that they will pay $500 for one speaker.

You are correct that most 16 ohm woofers have DCR in the 11 to 12 ohm range. But that doesn't have to be the case. The Stephens 103LX2 and ElectroVoice 15WK were designed to PWKs specs for use in a horn loaded enclosure, at least as far as the voice coil DCR was concerned.

No 5-way binding posts on Heresys, just barrier strips. If you want binding posts, it is easy enough to retrofit them, though.

Uh, if he bought them in 1981, they are Heresys, not Heresy IIs, and everything is rear mounted.

I don't think 3.2 ohms would be a strange DC resistance for the 16 ohm 103LX2. The 16 ohm ElectroVoice 15WK also used in the Klipschorn has 3.2 ohms DC resistance., too.

Sure you can power multiple sets of speakers off the same amp. You just need to make sure the amp has enough power and that you don't wire them in a way that the total speaker impedance goes below what the amp is designed for. You many need L-pads (volume controls) at one or both locations because the volume may be just right at one location and too loud at the other if you don't use them.

Woolite

Not a good idea to cut and solder a video cable. A skilled technician may be able to do it with minimal effect on impedance at the splice point. You probably won't. And an impedance mismatch will result in ghosts. Just cut off what you don't need and put new a new connector on the end.

No practical sound system is going to accurately reproduce most big, loud sounds if for no other reason than they don't have the power, even if the speakers could handle it. And sound engineers only want to give you the effect of what is going on, not reproduce the possible hearing damage. The one loud sound I have heard on a DVD that sounded authentic in years was the car crash at the beginning of "The Mexican". My cat normally lies happily in front of my speakers no matter what is coming out of them or how loud. He actually jumped when the car crash came through.

IMAX is the old 4:3 aspect ratio because that is approximately the human field of view. Huge screen and high definition obviates the need for wide screen. You eyeballs are filled as it is. Some of the IMAX theaters have spherical screens that literally wrap from side to side and overhead a bit. Sound is 6 channels plus sub bass, lots of speakers, around 12,000 watts total IIRC.

I first saw IMAX at one of the Worlds Fairs in the 60s. Definitely worth checking out, at least once. Huge screen, extremely high definition picture (frame is several times the size of other formats), great sound. I don't know how much of a difference it will make for movies originally released in another format for normal theaters. But the ones shot specifically for IMAX, with IMAX equipment, are impressive.

Sometime between 1985 and 2005? I think that is K-24-K, K-53-K and K-76-K. Are there EIA codes on the woofer, squawker driver and tweeter? They will have a format like xxx-xxxxxx where the part in front of the dash is the manufacturer code, and the part after is the date code. Sometimes the dash is missing. I don't think Klipsch always put EIA codes on Klipsch manufactured components, though. I seem to recall seeing a Klipsch date code of yymm on some components, like the K-53-K.

FWIW I have Heresys all around plus a sub and am very happy with them.

Sounds like what you have are 1984 Heresys. The E2 network is the correct one for them.

K-52 and K-55 sound different to me. That would be reason enough for me to change one or the other. I'd go with all K-55 if for no other reason than that is the one I would expect to be there. FWIW the K-55-V was the original Atlas driver used for many years. The K-55-M was a custom EV manufactured replacement for it, 1831-xxxx. The K-52-H was an off the shelf replacement manufactured by Heppner used in the Heresy and I am not sure where else. I would be surpised to see it in a top end box. The K-53-K was a Klipsch manufactured version of the Heppner driver with a change from screw mount to flange mount. The first two sound pretty much a like to me. The latter two sound different from the first two.

Something is not right. AFAIK E2 network was not used until the last years when the K-55-V squakwer driver was replaced with the K-52-H followed by the K-53-K. What model squawker driver do you have? If you have a K-55-V, just remove the 33 uF cap and you will that the appropriate network, a Type E. The T2A is an autotransformer. It is there primarily to reduce signal level going to the the squawker and tweeter because they are much more sensitive than the woofer.

I seriously doubt the metallized film capacitors used in a 1984 Heresy have gone south unless subjected to extreme abuse.

You have Heresys as opposed to Heresy IIs, or now Heresy IIIs. HWO is the model designation within the line. It stands for "Heresy Walnut Oil", in other words walnut veneer and and oil finish. HOL would be "Heresy oak lacquer". Don't know where you would get a manual. There doesn't seem to be one on the Klipsch site. Don't worry though, the "manual" I got with mine in 1972 was nothing more than a single sheet the jist of which was they were a 8-16 ohm speaker system and to use zip cord of at least 16 ga. to connect them. If you list the serial numbers, someone can tell you what year they were made. Enjoy!

First you are going to have to chemically neutralize the electrolyte. The electrolyte in an alkaline battery is basic, not acidic. So you will have to use a weak acid like vinegar for do the job. Make sure you flush it well with water when you are done. Now you have a clean, bleached, area. How to repair the problem may depend on the kind of finish you have on the cabinet. At worst, it entails stripping at least the affected panel down to bare wood, bleaching so the entire panel looks the same, and refinishing.

B.S. I've been getting HD OTA for years. So has most of the rest of the U.S.A. Any regular programming the big 6 networks feed to the cable providers in HD is available OTA in HD. It is possible that some local broadcasters chose not to broadcast some or all HD programs in HD. But this is fairly rare. However, in some cases, local DTV programming, SD or HD, is not available to the cable providers. FWIW not all DTV programs are in HD. Many primetime and sports programs are. The local PBS affiliate runs 4 SD subchannels during the day and switches to 1 HD and 1 SD subchannel in the evening. The only reason I can think of that you may not be seeing HD when you display OTA HD signals is you have your gear set up to down convert. If you are getting a picture and sound with no dropouts, freezing or pixilation, you have an adequate signal. It is also possible that the TV doesn't make the best use of the available data. Apparently, many of the HDTVs out there basically throw away half of the resolution. There is a thread on this over at the AVS Forum.

How would the Monster rep know your unit failed because of a massive surge? Maybe it failed because of a defective component. Did anything else in your place die? Smart PR, though. Tell the customer it failed and protected his system, whether it did or not.

Got some old Carter family 78s? Then how about making a Leyden jar out of a jelly jar. When you are not listening to music through it you can use it to hold your moonshine.