longdrive03

If all else fails try some WD40 on a cloth. It will remove duct tape residue and may work on your situation. Be careful to make sure it will work. Good luc

Thanks Malcolm. My luck - it sold before I could get back to buy it. Was $8 - probably sold for $4!!!!

Saw a "J.W. Davis" company triangular shaped cabinet at an estate sale today and it has this woofer in it. Can't find anything on it. Must be a full range since there was no tweeter in the cabinet. TIA

This method should also work for this horn, correct?

Is the T2A DA the same as the T2A? I figure Bob Crites and some of you other guys may know. If there is a difference does anyone have a spec sheet. Thanks.

Are the Speakerlab 15"s the ones used in the SK (khorn copy)??? I built a pair of those suckers in college (my buddy used a Skil saw to cut out the panels!!!) and I loved them. Sold em when I got married. Now I know a little of the science behind them and wish I had the cabinets. Good luck.

Good luck with that project. Guess I better check mine. I have 8 12" Eminence subs in my "coffin" firing into the upstairs space with only a 170wpc plate amp pushing them. Hope the surrounds and spiders are okay. Parts Express may have the dust caps you need.

Please advise. I need to see if it will fit in a sub box I have. Don't have one handy to test. thanks.

If you have a meter you can check the impedance of the woofer. It will be 4 or 8 ohms (3.2 equals 4 and 6 to 7 equals 8). Sounds like you don't have the KSF-S5 cabinets but just want a woofer to go with your tweeter and crossover? I don't know the impedance of the K-1018S woofer in the KSF-S5 but I would guess 4 ohms since it's a single woofer. I've got some 6.5" Klipsch woofers that would probably work.

Ok, found the E schematic on the forum at http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/89913/912168.aspx#912168 This shows a 2.5mh inductor only to the K-22 with a note of "11ohms"? I would think you could use a 1.25mh inductor with the 4 ohm K-28 and should get an xover point of around 700Hz so you don't have the 400-800Hz hole. I think I've got some of those 1.25 mh coils laying around.

Since the K-22 is an 8 ohm driver and the K-28 is a 4 ohm driver here is what I think would work in your situation. Use the K-28 and half the inductor value and double the cap value (assuming it is a 2 element 12db slope). I don't have the crossover schematic in front of me but doing this is very cheap. I can probably get the inductor and cap values of of the stock I have.

I may have a spare K-1057-KV sitting around. I love that woofer, very musical in the midrange. I used these in a MTM I built for a friend's son. I think the V indicates Video and therefore means a bucking magnet or cup was attached to the magnet. It is an 8 ohm speaker wired in parallel for a four ohm load in this MTM as the KSP400 I may be wrong. Colter may know. These sound great. Here's a photo of the MTM. I'll try to check tonight to see if I have one left. Thanks.

I think the K-43 is a cast frame and has a 2 to 3db higher sensitivity than the K-33. Bigger magnet too I think.

Yo daddy dee. Sorry I missed the invite for barbeque!! With a 4 ohm speaker you would halve the inductor value in a 6 db slope (just an inductor). Can recall the value on the xover for the woofer but cutting it in half should work with the four ohm. I think there is a network using the K-28 but not sure if it's same 700 hz xover frequency like the H's. I'll see if I can find some schematics for you.

Hi Rodney. I've tested these and have the specs. I'll send you a PM. I'll have to scan it an email.

I have been commissioned by my daughter's school (we'll really we suggested and they agreed) to build/replace the junk full range metal PA horn system at their football field. I'm thinking high output horn loaded setup for the lows. Anyone with suggestions/experience please jump in. Considering the University Classic bass module and maybe a wooden custom built mid and horn tweeters. This will be outside obviously and we're still considering size placement. Any thoughts appreciated. TIA

Check out madisound at http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=404_18_392 I've got a mess of oval head 1" wood screws that I would sell for 4cents each (half of madisound) plus shipping.

Hi Mike. My notes show the KLF30 uses the 116399 xover. I'm not sure if I have that number here or not but I'll check. I have various models. I've got some schematics and may be able to build you one if nothing else. Let me do some checking and I'll let you know. If you find one somewhere that's fine. Thanks. Ken

E=mc2?????

Hey Mike. I'll try to run the number down in my notes tonight when I get home.

You have PM.

Go to your local Wally Mart and buy some Aleene's tacky glue in the brown bottle. It dries clear and is very cheap. It remains pliable and doesn't harden. Hobby Lobby also carries it. The bottle is huge and it is cheap.

If you remove the horn and test it by bypassing the internal crossover I would recommend using a capacitor (probably 3.3uf or higher) in the positive line. This will prevent any low frequency damage. You can test it "naked" (without a cap) but keep the volume very very low. If it plays then you probably have an xover problem. If it doesn't you have a diaphragm problem and could also have an xover problem. If the tweeter doesn't play when tested I would also connect any raw speaker you have to the xover to see if you hear any sound. If you do then it is probably the tweeter alone and the xover is okay. Good luck.

According to the T/S specs I measured on the K-1036-E (not the K-23 in my post) each of the two woofers would need 59 liters (2.05cubic feet) of cabinet with a 4" diameter vent 5 13/16" long which will turn to 39.68 HZ. The internal dimensions of the KLF20 give about 97 liters (instead of 118 liters) without reducing for the displacement for the woofers, mid and tweeter, bracing etc. Using a 118 liter interior dimension with a 6" ID round port gives a port length of 16.8 inches. You gain about 6hz on the low end by using the bigger cabinet. You can go even larger in box size but it will produce a peak on the low end. As far as a rectangular port a 1" wide dimension would need to be 28.38" long and 16.8 inches deep. The larger the port area the longer the port. However the more narrow you make a vent the more you increase the possibility of vent noise at high volume. Hope this helps.

Hi Uncle Al. I've got a recessed subwoofer "coffin" behind my upstairs playroom wall housing 8 12" woofer with only a 15 x 15" opening into the room covered by a grill cloth. Sounds great and uses no floor space. I have the woofers firing into the attic (IB). Neighbors get to hear some wear sound sometimes!!!! If you have some open space behind the wall you can use the cabinet you have or build some larger cabinets which will extend the low end on the K-23-K woofers. I've got the specs on these and can give you some size info if you build. I would vent into the room since otherwise you would be venting into the back space which doesn't help. Should work well if you have the back space and want to save some floor space. I put a double layer of sheetrock on my sub wall. You can also use special sheetrock to this type installation. Good luck