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Everything posted by HarryO

  1. How's the TT working out so far? I've been waiting to see what your impression is so far. Harry
  2. Try a different receiver if possible. I wouldn't use FM as a test source. Congrats on the HIII purchase. They're my favorite of all the newer Klipsch products. Harry
  3. Gilbert, You got the fight you wanted, got 'er to the boat where you would have released anyway. Pics are nice but memories last forever. And.....don't try that "landing" again. Try "lipping" next time. But watchout for the hooks. We've all done something we shouldn't have at one time or another.
  4. Every pair of older LS I've owned have had the #s stamped into them. Only two pairs and a pair of BGs Speakerfritz owns now.
  5. Green with envy here! IF I were closer... Give me a call. I'd like an opinion from you. Harry
  6. I had the same issue after a light switch was changed recently. ONLY ONE switch and it was easy to find due to the replacement. I pulled the switch, replaced with a quality switch, and NO more pop through the speakers. Harry
  7. Thank You Bill for the info. After I read the thread I did some local searches for the lamps but came up empty. Saturday later than most of my suppliers stay open. It looks like a monday morning project. I love Meters! Harry
  8. Give us your opinion on Ed's stylus after you put some listening time on it. When I installed my first one it was a replacement for a broken shank. The second was replacing one that was worn. I don't have a clue as to break-in time on the stylus. The one I still have is a wonderful sounding cartridge/stylus combo. In both replacements I liked Ed's stylus. I'd like to have had the chance to "A/B" against a good factory Shure stylus.
  9. boards, the 6 meter bulbs have been removed prior to me acquiring this amp
  10. I just picked up a Denon POA 1500 amp and the lamps have been removed from the meter boards. "Snipped" off IF anyone has specs on the bulbs and type of bulb I could sure use the help. I don't have a manual so after an hour of searching the web I figured I'll have to ask. I know it's a long shot but "PICS and Specs/values" of bulbs would be great. I HATE dark spots on the face of my gear. Thanks so much, Harry
  11. I checked out a $100 Cambridge Audio phono pre today at Ovation here in Indy. It's a nice, effective, quiet, unit. I highly recommend for the money. It really works great on some of the newer receivers with phono sections.
  12. Nick, I'd listen to it for a while before I made any mods to it. Reading about all this stuff is fine and increases knowledge about the products but...Your ears are the final judge on this stuff. I couldn't count the upgrades to my system I've made over the years that sucked! IF they didn't suck I ended up spending some major coin and moving "sideways". It's easy to spend money. It's harder to get value for it. JHMO. It's all up to you.
  13. For the money you can't beat Ed's stylus replacement. I've used two of them now and they're a quality product. IF...IF I were you, I'd play out the 166 with a good mat on it and determine if you like it the way it is. You might be surprised how good that table/cart combo can sound. A good phono pre section or seperate phono pre is a must. That would my first upgrade depending on your present system. Harry
  14. Bless ya Tony, Best wishes for you and your family
  15. Copper may be copper but long strand copper vs short strand is definitely different. Put a meter on it and check resistance.I can hear a difference also in volume on longer strand copper. When I went to the AQ X2 wire I had to drop a half notch on the volume control. It was that noticable. Not scientific but noteworthy. I'm not so sure on burn in on speaker wire but I've heard the difference in IC burn in. I figure playing it out will burn it in. LOL! Just my 2 cents worth
  16. Deep thoughts......... I'm not sure I'd argue with Bob Crites. He's done as many crossovers as anyone I know of. Pretty darned good at them too as many here can testify to. Age is a killer of caps.
  17. I don't know anyone in your area that does them. I'm sure someone will chime in with a good shop to use. You can search the net for "pot luck" service. Re-cones are fairly easy on the P15 frame and it's something that can easily be done with close detail to instructions if you can find the cone kit in your area. Shipping from the US shouldn't be bad if you use the Postal service. DO NOT use UPS or FEDEX across the border or you might be in for a shock with the hidden charges.
  18. Laying off a good employee is worse. Sometimes firing an employee is necessary. Either way it's no fun.
  19. Are they labeled "P15LL" on the outer edge of the frames? They have excellent sound, they're valuable (I've seen them sell for over $300 each in nice condition), and can be reconed at a very reasonable price. The last ones I had done about a year ago cost me about $60 each including shipping back. I used http://www.circuitshop.com/ for my repairs I don't do myself. I recommend them highly. Always excellent work, products, and service. Tell 'em "HarryO" in Indianapolis says "HI"
  20. Do your crossovers first. The basic caps Klipsch used were so-so to start with. They're over 20 years old and pretty much have "had it". I've done a pair of Forte and Forte II in the last month and the difference in top end is amazing. They tightened up quite nice in the mids also. The Sonicaps are nice but not necessary to spend the bucks on them. About any decent cap from Parts Express is higher quality than Klipsch used. ONE upgrade at a time.
  21. That's an expensive way to tell if you have a bad crossover. Diaphrams on ONE speaker should tell you you have an issue with the crossover/wiring. I just had an issue with a binding post replacement being too long and dug into the circuit board causing tweeter diaphrams to blow. Do a thorough inspection and comparison between crossovers. Make sure you have the mids wired properly identical to the good speaker. If you can't pinpoint an issue from there you should probably send it to a qualified tech such as BEC or a couple of other forum members.
  22. Welcome to the Forum...or "Family Fued" . LOL! Nothing wrong with your Adcom gear. IF IF IF you have loads of reserve power the Chorus II is a heck of a speaker IMHO. For lower listening levels I prefer the Forte II. For "Rockin' Out" at higher levels I love the Chorus II. It takes a little/lot more horsepower to drive the Chorus II on the bass than it does the Forte II. I've had 3 pairs of Chorus II and 3 pairs of Forte II. I have both large and small listening areas. I originally did NOT like the Chorus II but in my conversations with STORMIN ol' Randy enlightened me to the fact that the Chorus II just has to have the power to make them work properly on the bottom end. With the power they are a heck of a speaker. One last issue you bring up. $700 on Chorus II....For that price they'd better be "MINT". Not that they're not worth it but more along the lines of the current market values. I see a lot of them selling in the $400-$550 range. Condition and location on large speakers.... Harry
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