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masterxela

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Everything posted by masterxela

  1. Whenever I get into a conversation about audio in general, its almost always with car audio guys, because in college, no one is into ht, or decent "non-rap" music reproduction at all. It might be the whole, broke with no space issue, but I found a way around it. I'm of course pu$$y $hit for not hitting 140db, but I get a little respect when they hear I have 2 8's, 2 10's and 4 18's in my room. When people see my subs, they just can't believe they're in a residence, they look more like commercial subs you see at clubs, except bigger. (16 cubic feet, about 200lbs, each) As plexi-glass reinforcement goes, my only problem is the door to my basement, and that's not near as distracting as my room issues. Too bad I don't have enough money to eat 3 meals a day right now. Otherwise, I'd fix it. Oh, and I won't blow anything. I've had the crown flash clip and the subs are still in happy range. On extreme material, I'm only doing about 1/2 max excursion. So much surface area, theres complete authority with barely visual movement.
  2. Mic was muted, it was doing soundcard. Good thought
  3. Go for the rc-7 if you can fine one, they are quite rare now. I'm sure an rc-62 would work fine. Oh, and theres no such thing as overkill, just headroom.
  4. I have a "computer" mic, and just for fun I hooked it up. I went in to microsoft's sound recorder, clicked record, and then opened my tone generator and did a sweep from 1000 to 20 over 20 seconds. When I played back the recording, it was identical to the initial sweep, would this imply that the mic is good down to 20?
  5. Everything is setup and sounding sweet. Major room issue is between 35 and 50hz, with a +20db peak at 40hz. What a coincidence that my room is 343/40 meters long.... (RS db meter, so who knows what the actual number is) Secondary issue, who guessed it, with the other parallel walls. +10db at 75hz. Room happens to be 343/75 meters wide. Its nice when math works Most recordings sound phenomenal. Any with sustained 40hz info is bothersome though. Only thing I listen to regularly that low is tool. Rf-7's on large with sub off dig sooo deep down here. Authority to 35hz. Unbelievable. I set the crossover at 40hz (don't tell me I'm wrong until you come down here and listen to music with the crossover at 60 or 80, because you can't, just take my word it does not sound as good) 35hz is deafening, 30, I'm starting lose definition and beginning to pass by the "super audible" band, moving into only feel. from 20hz down to 15hz, I can hear the door to my basement shaking on its hinges, at the correct frequency. It's cool, but I'll try to shut it up somehow. db meter said 96 at 15hz, not bad for a 3000 cubic foot room. Having solid concrete floor and walls is so nice after being in and hearing other "drywall" systems. The bass is so pure, no weird stuff, no floor vibrations, no wall flexing, no random noises. The absence of feeling the bass through transmission on the floor is the nicest. I feel the hair on my head move before my whole room is rattling like the trunk of a cadillac rollin' on 22's. Now the floor right above me is another story. Out of control up there, like I was kidnapped and put into that trunk. Standing up there feels like a foot massager thats low on batteries. If anyone knows what software I need and how to go about using my computer to use the eq on my crown xti2000, lemme know. Also, what mic should I buy to use rew, or an equivalent program and get good results down to 20hz ish. Further projects include, getting money to buy a less crappy projector, and bass traps.
  6. I can only guess what you have now and what you are looking for. The easiest thing to do would for you to audition them side by side in your own room. Let your ears decide. You can always buy one new, listen to it, and return it. If you liked it, go buy it used. Or, buy the one you returned open box for a lot less. Also, what would you do with your sub-10? You could always run both
  7. "I am confused by what I have read concerning underdriving and 'clipping', which causes distortion (?) and/or potential speaker damage, unless the speakers are high-efficiency models" High efficiency they are. Might want to hold off on the purchase until you can afford the mains though, or just buy mains, and build around those. Generally lose less money on the upgrade path that way.
  8. I'd stay away from 2 different drivers in the same box for sure. I know it might be a fun inexpensive experiment to build this box, but afterwards, are you going to happy with something satisfactory? Just trying to save you some time and money. I'd sell 'em 3 different drivers in what would have to be 3 different boxes.... I am having extreme trouble getting a much simpler "setup" sounding how I wish
  9. ISOBARIC: (isobarik, compound loading) - a method of using two drivers working in tandem in order to achieve a smaller box size for a given design. Theoretically, the Vas of the complete system will be half that of a single driver, which results in a net box size that's also reduced by half. The sensitivity of the isobaric system will be the same as that of a single driver, but you've got to spring for that extra driver!
  10. everyone is going to say no, don't run them on a receiver. but I own rf-7's and have run them off an entry level denon for a very long time and am SUPER happy with the sq. At some point I plan on auditioning the emotiva mps-1, but thats down the road when funds permit. I have also run them off my crown xti 2000 ($600 amp, not much difference, you'd get more for your money spending 600 on room treatment for sure) All I can say is that I'd be suprised if a $10k amp changed the sound more than your specific room acoustics and placement. I've had the rf-7's in 4 different rooms, and it is amazing how different they sound. Important note: The denon's power supply feeds every channel, same for your onkyo. I'm only running fronts and rears right now (4), and I can put the volume about as high as it can go, and the sound is incredible, if I taxed the supply with 3 more speakers, I don't think it would be happy, especially if I were running them on large with the 7's infamous impedence dip down low. They won't be at a dealer, they were discontinued. Used to be a ton of maple ones on ebay bin for $1000. Audiogon and the forum are probably your best bets, people like their 7's though, might be a while
  11. never made my own stuff, but bluejeanscable.com is great, $65 for a 50 foot "subwoofer" cable, $39 for the "digital audio" or "composite video" cable. I'm sure they'd all work fine
  12. this is pretty "general", but from what I've read, the new line (82') are a little more refined, top end a little laid back, mid range maybe a little better (most of this coming from rf-7 vs rf-83 threads). Also, with the budget your looking at, I'd really suggest auditioning as much as you can, and the difference between $700, 900 and 1100 gets insignificant if after 2 weeks your wondering if you should have bought the better speaker. You're in range of rf-7's, heritage, etc. No idea how well kg 3.5's blend with anything....
  13. from klipsch's website: sub-10 is -3 at 28hz, 200w continuous, 430w peak, max output 115db at 30hz rw-12: -3 at 21hz, 340w continuous, 825w peak, max output 113db at 30hz if you want it louder, probably not going to get your "big difference", deeper, yes you will notice a big difference on dvd's both are ported (big rolloff under tuning), so after the sub-10's -3 at 28hz, i bet it its 10db under the rw-12 at 21hz, and theres plenty of 20hz material in dvd's if you listen to metal/rock/ anything but rap, probably not much diffference in music
  14. I'm looking at the sennheiser hd280pro and akg k 271. Any thoughts? I don't want any suggestions unless they are circumaural closed..... Thanks
  15. center on top of tv won't increase hearing loss put the center on top facing at your head, or underneath, facing at your head. I don't see how a center stand would help, won't it still be infront of the tv? in a 5.1 system, its not terrible to have the rears directly at your sides. Lots of people have to do this due to room layout
  16. I say defintely not with rf-7's, rb-75's and 4 18's in a room 20x13. Headroom is your friend subs are fine if you think they sound fine. (i imagine they'd do well)
  17. go to bestbuy, everything's hooked up. that'll just be easier and certainly more conclusive on your end. if they're out on the floor and not in a dedicated room, the bass will be much weaker than what you can expect in your room. (at my bb, the synergies are out in the open, reference is in a dedicated room, part of a magnolia ht)
  18. I don't believe the "timbre" match is as important with subs. A good sub is a good sub with kg's, reference or heritage. Synergy sub-12 is popular and not too pricey. I don't like the idea of used subs, too easy to abuse, and people do for sure.
  19. you should buy my flawless kv-3. 125 plus shipping from 63367
  20. dump the amp and cd player. Regardless of whether you can find a 2000w inverter or not, you won't find one that ouputs an un-modified ac signal (it won't be a true sine wave), without spending hundreds. As far as running a blow dryer on a modified signal, maybe it works ok, but I wouldn't send it through my audio equipment. as far as the subs, just plug 'em into any amp, if they sound good, keep them. we won't be able to give advice better than your own ears
  21. I appologize for including the shaking, it is not the problem to be addressed. an 80% fix is what I was looking for, thanks for the info. Once I have some money, I will proceed (lost a $590 pot last night in nl texas hold 'em, 4 all ins pre flop, cowboys busted)
  22. without going into great deal about my specific situation, did anyone have severe peaks due to room problems in the sub-100hz range, and get substantial results using inexpensive bass traps? no, I cannot experiment with sub placement, because my subs aren't even down there yet... just the rf-7's going crazy. I can stand a floor above and play music, and one very narrow frequency band between 60 and 100hz (by ear) absolutely shakes the floor. room is a solid concrete rectangle about 12x23x7 I'm in a temporary setting now, so anything immovable, or specific to this room is not possible. thanks
  23. rf-7's barely affect crts at <6 inches
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