biglaz

You might try BobCrites @ www.critesspeakers.com Robert

Hello. You can go to the web page and on the left side scroll down untill you see "contact us". Then you can email Bob Crites or call him directly. He will know what you are talking about when you tell what you want. Regarding active crossover. Some people go 2 way by disconnecting the woofer from the internal xover and connecting it to you low frequency amp. Take your high frequency amp and hook it up to the internal xover bypassing the woofer section. This way you will continue to use the internal xover between the midrange and tweeter. Set you xover to the appropriate xover points the same as factory settings. Another way is to go totally 3 way. Disconnect all the speakers from the internal xover and connect them to the respective amplifier. You will need a 3 way stereo xover and 3 stereo amplifiers to do it this way. You can run the speaker wires in through the port. If you are ok with cutting the speaker cabinet mount 2 more wire terminals and disconnect the internal xover from the existing terminal. Then wire each speaker to it own terminal on the back of the speaker. I'm sure I missed something or there are other ways to multi amp your speakers. Big question. What do you hope to gain. Your speakers are already quite efficient. It is somewhat costly for what in my thoughts will be a small gain. good Luck and enjoy.

Yes you do. Try these suggestions and hold your ground with E-Bay pointing out the buyer is not cooperating. Do you remember any significant marks for identification and or the serial number. Have the buyer send it back, do not let the buyer keep the unit no matter what. Examine it closely for those identifying marks and or serial number. Also, follow up with UPS. However, unless you used brand new box etc. it is hard to get them to pay off. Respond to E-bay asking them to read all messages between you and the buyer, I hope you communicated via E-Bay message center. Hope this helps.

Normally no, this can work just fine. Listen for distortion in the speakers or clanking when the woofer reaches max excursion, then turn the volume down a little.

In my experience the crossover is the primary culprit. Give it a separate amp and active xover.

Either one will do the job. However, everyone has an opinion.

My brother was in demolition about 30 years ago and brought this to me from a stadium he was tearing down. He said this is the only one that survived. It came with a driver with a blown diaphram which I replaced (I have forgotten the model #). It has been hanging in the garage ever since. I play music, crossed @300hz from dual 18" low frequency drivers. It can be heard way far away perfectly clear with minimal power input. I have tried to find another with no luck and have tried to sell this one with no luck. So it hangs and plays. biglaz

hope this helps

My horns are 4020s.

I think I have one of these (the one in the truck) hanging in the garage with an EV driver working. I sound great to me.

Years ago before AVRs I would use a stereo VCR and later a recordable DVD that have cable pass through. Then I would run the audio outs to a line level input on the receiver ie: vcr, aux, etc. Example: Antenna (cable) into the vcr then to tv input. Then audio cable from the vcr or dvd player to the receiver. I have an old set up in the garage with an old Marantz receiver, old Magnavox vcr and, an old tv so I can listen to the games a little louder than in the house. Just an old vcr.

OK. Thanks

Can you explain the use of the resistors?

I have seen some of the Pyle Pro compression drivers list some incredible parameters. Other than being junk, does anyone have any experience with any of these. I have never knowingly heard any. A friend stated Pyle makes a lot of drivers for OEM useage?

Paint before you assemble. If you wait until it is assembled it will be very hard to paint.

Thanks for the info. Robert

Thanks for the info.

Wow. That is something I did not know.

How is the high freq. response with the 22A and CH1 horn. Do you use passive or active xover? Thanks all that have responded. Robert

Anyone have experience with the Peavey 22A and Eminence PSD2002 1" drivers? There seems to be a lot of these floating around but, not many comments on SQ or durability.

Thanks. That is what I thought.

Are there any advantages or disadvantages to running several separate speaker cables in there separate jackets just tied together at the ends?

You might want to remove the drivers and test them individually. This will help identify speaker issues or crossover issues. Good luck and sorry for your problem biglaz

Anyone have experience with this driver? This is the big Selenium driver. If so, how does it compare to the K 55 M. Thanks in advance.

This what I am thinking. What you are trying to do will not result in a bi-amp configuration. To bi-amp you need to have an electronic crossover, a minimum of 2 amplifiers (1 for top end and 1 for the bass). If you want to do a 3 way system you would need 3 amplifiers, 1 for tweeters, 1 for mids and, 1 for the base. Therefore to bi-amp your bose 901s with a subwoofer and high frequency system you would need 3 amplifiers and the 3 way electronic crossover. Your integrated amp will need to have pre-amp outs to send the signal to the crossover. The crossover then feeds the appropriate amplifier. The Bose 901s do not have an integral crossover. I guess if your cd player has a volume control it could be used as the pre-amp to send the signal to the crossover. I hope this helps, maybe a little. Robert