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Posts posted by Youthman

  1. Welcome to the forums. 

    Definitely appear to be RF7's as the horn is slightly smaller than the 10" woofers.

    The sub is likely the RSW12 as it appears slightly larger than the drivers on the RF7's.

    I believe the smaller tower is the RF3 as the horn is slightly smaller than the woofers.

    They definitely have been rode hard and put up wet.

    If they are unable to test them, I would definitely offer pretty low ($400 - $500) as you are taking a big risk that they may not even work and parts are difficult to replace due to them being over 15 years old. Just by looking at how bad they have been treated over the years, there very well could be issues.

    If you can test them and they sound good, I would personally would probably offer $600 - $800 for the set.

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  2. 2 hours ago, billybob said:

    Not real clear on whether kits sold or installed for you.

    Jim was absolutely great to work with. I spoke with him on the phone and he was super helpful answering my questions. Jim told me he would rather ship out the parts instead of having me ship him my AA networks in fear they might get damaged or lost during shipping. I found a friend that had experience in soldering so it was a pretty straight forward job. Hopefully the video helps.

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    • Thanks 2
  3. I did some additional testing today and it's definitely the crossover. Swapped XLR cables for Left and Right channel on the processor, swapped XLR cables for left and right channel on the amp, replaced speaker wire to left speaker, all with same results.


    I just reached out to JEM Performance Audio - https://jemperformanceaudio.com/


    Klipsch has authorized them to repair Heritage speakers to factory spec. Most others modify or "upgrade" the crossovers with what they feel are better components. I would prefer to keep them as close to what PWK designed.

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  4. Looking for some help / advice as you guys are much more technical than I am.

    Short version...

    1) I ran Dirac Live on the Monolith HTP-1 processor and after the calibration, I discovered the left speaker measured quite different than the center and right original LaScalas (1980 model).


    2) Using REW and UMIK-1, I measured the Left, Center and Right speaker. The center and right had similar frequency responses but the left speaker measured quite different.

    3) I swapped the left and right tweeter


    4) Took new measurements. The center and right speaker had a similar frequency response, the left speaker measured quite different


    So this tells me the tweeter is not the issue.


    5) I took three nearfield measurements to try and take as much of the room out of the equation as possible and pretty much had the same results.


    Below is a video showing measurements from #2-4 above.

    I'm editing a video now of #5 above and will share it in this thread once I get it edited and will post it here as well.

    I'm thinking the crossover in the left speaker is faulty and will need to be repaired / replaced. Let me know if there is any other testing I should do before purchasing another AA crossover.


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  5. Well, I swapped the tweeters with my Left and Right LaScalas and took some measurements with REW and the issue stayed with the left cabinet so that means the tweeter is not the issue.

    I'm wondering if the crossover is the issue. I'll update this thread and post in the Technical / Modifications section to see if I can get some additional eyes looking at my issue to help me troubleshoot it.

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  6. Update: No Longer Needed


    Last night I ran Dirac Live on the Monolith HTP-1 and discovered one of the tweeters in my 1980 LaScalas is not working properly.

    I need to test it to see if it's working at all but wanted to see if anyone has one for sale.



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  7. After listening to The Fives in four different rooms and setups, I have to say these little guys pack quite the performance, especially considering their size.

    Bass was surprisingly powerful from a 4.5” woofer. There are a lot of things that Klipsch got right with these.


    Anyone else have a chance to hear them yet? What are your thoughts.




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  8. 2 hours ago, David y said:

    So if the cap 4000 would of fitted behind your screen and wouldn’t of interfered with it at all are you saying you would of gone with a cap4000?

    Absolutely. I heard a system that had 3 of them. It was quite exhilarating but Tony had it dialed in so that it wasn't overwhelming at all and blended seamlessly with the rest of his system. 




    2 hours ago, David y said:

    But then again I will probably be listening to music a lot on my system and the rs2 would probably be better for that.

    We demoed music and movies at Tony's house for probably 2hrs straight. The 4000ULF sounded absolutely incredible, even in 2ch music.


    If you have the space, I would absolutely go with the 4000ULF. It will be your last sub upgrade (unless you decide to add a second down the road to help smooth out the bass response in your room).


    2 hours ago, David y said:

    I can’t believe youthman Responded to one of my posts lol I love you videos and I hope all is good with you kind sir.

    I'm glad @RandyH000 tagged me. Just an FYI, you can tag people by typing @ and then clicking on their name in the list. Now that I'm doing Youthman Reviews full-time, I do not have near as much free time to hang out in the Klipsch forum as I used to but still love this community and what Klipsch provides.

    Speaking of Klipsch, I'm going to get back to editing my review of The Fives. Be blessed!


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  9. There is no question you will get more bang for your buck with DIY. Not sure many would argue with that. 

    I used to have (4) Klipsch RSW-15's. Fantastic subs but one amp failed (others likely to follow being they were over 15 yrs old) and they dropped like a rock below 20Hz.

    I like @David y wanted deeper extension. I reviewed a pair of PB16's and discovered they had plenty of output, dug deeper than the RSW-15's and simply sounded incredible. I sold the (4) RSW-15's and purchased the PB16's. 

    Everyone kept telling my in the comments that if I liked SVS, I needed to hear JTR. I spoke to Jeff and told him I wanted to keep my subs behind my screen. The 4000ULF were about 3" too deep plus being ported, I knew they would blow the screen like the PB16's did (even though you could only see the ripples when the lights were on), he recommended dual Captivator RS2's.

    Going from dual (2) 15's to (4) 18's was pretty insane. More output than I could ever fully utilize which means gobs of headroom so the amp and subs do not have to work as hard. The additional surface area pressurizes my room and is flat down to 10Hz in my room. The PB16's went to around 16Hz and fell off pretty quickly.

    It didn't take me long to decide to sell my PB16's and upgrade once again. I always said if I ever upgrade from 15's, it would be to (4) 18's. I honestly do not see myself upgrading again as the RS2's are tight and articulate but deliver massive authority when needed. 

    SVS makes great subs but JTR is on a completely different level.

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  10. I just added a video of the unboxing, overview and several audio demos in the original post above.

    We just concluded The HiFi Summit so I have not had much opportunity to sit and listen to them without being in "video mode" LOL.

    I also updated the photos in the original post as well with much higher quality images. The first images I posted were taken with my iPhone (which didn't turn out very well).


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