bliss53

One more.

Here is another.

Thanks Pete. tc Here is a pic my heat shrink job.

I have the illness. Landed a pair of 89 Heresy II in rough shape for $120. I was traveling in CT on business and a ebay seller could not sell them at $250. I went and looked at them after the sale. The tweeters are blown. There is one corner that looks a little punky. It looks like it got wet at some time and swelled. The inside of the cabinet is solid at that point. I will re-veener. How do repair this area?

I will take some pictures tonight and post.

New design to make room for the ports.

Got a $20 (could have been $30, don't remember) paint stripping heat gun in the paint department at lowes. I just used it on my cornwall capacitor replacement project. I put thin radio shack tubing on the caps wires and the next larger size on the joints per Bob Crites instructions. Lined it all up and cooked it. No cracking or scorching. It looks like I knew what I was doing...Not. I also plan to use the gun to bend some acrylic stuff. I want make a custom dust cover for my thorens tt and for my record cleaning machine. Good luck.

Greg, I mean "dude". He obviously did not look in the dictionary.

Replaced the tweeter diaphragms and the crossover capcitors (many thanks to Bob Crites). Reassembled them and they sound great. A big improvement over my quartets. I am going to have trouble pulling them out of service for the time it will take to do the veneer work. I covered 1 1/2 inches of the port on either side with mdf using double stick tape. I tried covering the space flush with the motorboard and 5/8 of an inch away from the motor board. I can not hear a difference in either instance from the stock configuration. So it looks like the frame and grill design will work.

How much would it impact the speaker performance if I were to cover 1-2 inches of the ports on both sides? Or I could possibly leave 5/8 of inch of breathing room in front of the 1-2 inches.

Most of my new vinyl comes from acoustic sounds. There are some classic rock remasters that I think are really worth the higher price. Most of my stuff comes from local used vinyl dealers a $1 to $7 a piece.

I know you addressed your question to greg but I can't help myself. I use porter cable electric and pneumatic orbital sanders.

Greg, Random orbit sanders..yes. Thanks again for all the guidance and the great dcchomes pages. You do very nice work. After looking at the shorthorns and the black front cherry project you did I think I have arrived at a plan. I will add mdf pieces to the outside of the motorboard and to the bottom to form a skirt. Then veneer the whole thing. The mitered veneer face joints make me nervous but I am going to give it a shot. I read that heat set glue is tough for this. Any suggestions for this? I am going to try and keep the grill flush. I will put an 1/8" rounded solid cherry trim on the inside edge of the frame. Here is a bad, not to scale sketch. Please give me some feedback on the design (not the art work). I have a thick skin, bring it. Edit: Won't work. No room for ports to breath. Argg.

Greg. Do you think the riser front would work on my cornwalls?

Way over my head but I like it. Distortion can be ok, who knew.

I second the vinyl nirvana recommendation. Dave is a great guy to deal with and he has Cornwalls. He helped me out tremendously with my tables. See my AR ES1 pic.

Greg, Thanks for the detailed information. I thing the veneer "beveled" joints I have seen are the result of the veneered plywood being beveled and joined. I think I have made some decisions. I am going to go with cherry. I will trim the front edges back 3/4", add some solid cherry molding frames to the front with a interior bread and making a smaller grill with heritage badges. What do think of attaching the frames with some biscuits for alingment? I am still torn between building some feet as you did or building a traditional riser with an arched front. The idea came from the old advent one. The cornwall always reminded me of the advent utility cabinet. I always preferred the solid wood framed advent cabinet. Who in your experience has the best quality/price paper backed cherry veneer? Given the design what would you do, riser or feet? Thanks, Peter

I have a $1,200 cayin A50T with EL34 tubes. This amp is a particularly good match with klipsch.

I have a creek A52 se modified amp and a cayin A50t tube amp. There is no comparison with my quartets. The tubes deliver a rich defined midrange that can not be matched by the creek. The creek is quicker and the overall response is good but the tubes are more musical. I will test both amps with my rebuilt cornwalls in the next couple of weeks. I am expecting the same comparison only on a bigger scale. I was unable to listen before the rebuild because the tweeters were blown.

I really love the rosewood. How do they sound compared to the original? I think I am going to borrow the foot idea for my cornwall project. They look great.

Greg, The inside was very clean and tight with no corrosion. I have emptied the cabinets. I have removed the front edge veneer banding because it was coming off anyway. The rest of the veneer is in pretty good shape but oak has always been one of my least favorite woods. Walnut or cherry 4x8 paper backed sheets looks like the way to go. The grills are missing and would need to be constructed. I am wrestling many decisions and choices. 1. Restore them to stock oak 2. Cut the cabinet flush with the motorboard and veneer the motorboard as well. Build a surface mount grill in a custom shape that covers the drivers. 3. Trim 3/8 of an inch from the front edges and adding a solid wood banding with a 1/8 bead detail on the inner edge. 4. Leaving the 3/4 solid edge an adding a 1/8 inch strip to form a beaded inside edge. The banding could have a slight straight bevel. The grill would need to be slightly smaller in that scenario 5. If I end up straying from a straight restoration I would also add recessed custom wood terminal boxes. 6. Add bracing to the interior of the cabinet and to the outside of the back panels. What to do? I have a shop space. I think I have seen your work and work space in some posts. I do not have the shop that you have. I have done small furniture veneer projects but nothing with panels this big. What glue do you prefer and why? Do you butt or miter your veneer cabinet joints? If you miter how do you cut the 45? Does the paper backing show in the joint? Do you cut your own edge banding from the sheets of veneer? Do you use a flush cut router bit to trim your veneer sheets and banding? Thanks for any assistance. Peter

Here is picture of the other one. The blue tape is holding long splinters out of harm's way.

Help me refurbish my new purchase. I have ordered tweeter diaphragms, capacitors, and grill cloth. I am thinking new walnut or cherry veneer. What else would you guys do if they were yours?

I think I read that the standard distance is 3/4 of an inch on center. You may want to double check on line. If you use the standard distance you will be able to use the double banana plugs if you ever needed to.

Let me know if Josh does not take them.