avguytx

Thanks for the input, muel. I wonder if anyone on here has some used CT-120's or Elliptrac HF's they decided not to use or didn't like. Will have to post a WTB and see

Is it worth replacing the K-55 diaphragms with new diaphragms now that they're 39 years old? Or just leave them? I'm not really ready to shell out the $$$ for A-55-G's but $120 for diaphragms is doable...if there's any difference. Still debating on the tweeters too.

Crossovers before and after pictures. I know they aren't fancy but they are soldered in and work well. I'm pretty sure the networks outputs are already reversed in phase so the speakers hook up to the terminals as they are?

So it's a second order filter but keeps the crossover points the same or changes them? I can tell there's some upper end missing I could hear on the CF-3's. Even with my limited top end hearing. I've got some Joe B on my server and for what I don't, there's Spotify. That's good stuff for sure.

Now to deliberate on tweeters or not. Might listen to these for awhile and get a feel for 'em. Some Bob Seger playing now. Good stuff.

Yep. Updating the caps took care of it. Changed them to B-2 networks too.

Metered all of the drivers; woofers are at 3.9 ohm, mids 10.8 ohm, and tweeters 6.4 & 6.8 ohm. So, we're good there overall. Crossovers are out of the cabinets and ready to be updated from B's to B-2's. I checked capacitance on the old caps and they weren't too far off but I can't check ESR with my Fluke 112. They do look to be leaking a little on the tops, though.

Well, it's something off with the speakers. I changed to a different amp and they still are dull and lifeless. Left speaker had no highs at all. After I get done with the antenna in the attic, backso will come out and drivers checked. I've got the caps and coils in to change them to B-2 networks so I'll find out if new drivers/diaphragms are needed.

What's the latest B&C tweeter? Is it the B&C DE120 or the newer DE110? Are the Crites CT-120's using the DE120?

We use those, and larger versions, here at the school on my servers (one per) but I'm not sure I'm ready to spend $400+ just to bring the voltage down 5 to 7v. We also use these at the school localized in some of the older buildings where we have erratic voltage swings; lights dimming in room, voltage ranging from 114 to 130v, etc. They work wonders in there which saves me computers, printers, switches, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487945152&sr=1-1&keywords=tripp+lite+line+conditioner

So what's the best thing to use on a continual basis to keep a tube amp around 117 volts continually? Apparently not a variable?

I was a manufacturers rep for 9 years for companies like Elan, Sunfire, Onkyo/Integra, NAD/PSB, etc., etc., and have heard tons of multi-thousand and multi-million dollar homes with properly set up theaters. Yes, they were cool and did sound great but at the end of the day, I was perfectly content listening to my 2-channel system at home versus my Sunfire 7.2 surround setup. It was nice at the time but I've tired of all the BS setup stuff through the years and am glad to be out of that industry. My listening collection does not include any BD surround concerts. Wait...I don't even own any BD discs and only player is a PS3. Just don't care. But that's just me....

New Solen caps plus 245uh coils should be in Friday (2/24) for converting the Type B crossovers to Type B-2. Also new binding posts for easier connections, too. I'm going to do the crossover first, finish up my ST-70 amplifier and tie into the system, then I'll ponder changing tweeters, etc. I want to hear them first without all the extras. I do need to re-cover the grills, too, at some point. But not a crazy important thing. I may use a couple of the newer "pie" shaped badges /emblems for now as I don't want to pay $95 for a pair of the originals. Unless someone here has some they want less for...

So you've tried another pair of speakers? They may not be as efficient but it's worth a try. What about tinsel leads on the woofers...they aren't touching are they? I guess you could disconnect one driver at a time and isolate which one is causing it to go into protect.

A cat would only lick a working tube......once... And I'd pay to be there for that. My cats don't mess with any of my gear.

Not sure I agree with this as I just had my mothers house appraised without the the new roof and with one and there was an increase in the value based on before and after. But it wasn't a $10k roof, either. Which I don't think a person would pay for on a $100k house. At least not in this area. But who knows... The slabs will only be added value to the person who thinks they are.

So has this right at 40 year old integrated amp ever been gone through? Is it running on original 40 year old capacitors and not ever been touched? If so, it's running on borrowed time. Nice amplifier but they age the same way any others did from the 70's. Do you have a "newer" or different amp to try?

I'm going over this part, myself, as Bob Latino says the VTA ST-70's (and others) need to see around 117-120v optimally. My wall voltage is pretty consistent around 125v +/- a volt. So I either use something like this... https://www.circuitspecialists.com/variac-variable-ac-ps05kva.html Or something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487609371&sr=8-2&keywords=tripplite+line+conditioner We use these in a couple locations here at the school as there are some old lines and voltage is erratic in some older buildings. I had one building that had a swing from 110v up to 130v. You can imagine how that affected lights, computers, printers, etc. They (our crew and the city) finally found loose connections outside on the main feed and fixed it. Do the variacs (like top choice) work off a percentage of line voltage or a set voltage output based on the adjustment?

Umm... Anyone here build these or ever heard someone talk about them? Interesting. NOAF https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ele/5994671304.html

And I got a little work done on my ST-70 kit today, too. Domestic duties limited my time, though.

Similar but updated with better transformers and circuitry.

Dynaco VTA ST-70 or 120 from Bob Latino at tubes4hifi would be a contender. They can make you one assembled ready to go with tubes or add your own choice. Not that I'm partial or anything.

You've got two great pairs of speakers to choose from. Hard decision. Ha Now I need to sell off a couple pairs of speakers including some Norman Lab Model 9's and Dynaco A25's to make some space for CF-3's to store for time being.

Thank you sir. Will still keep searching for Belle's and still may build cabinets at some point. We are thinking about building or buying a new house later this year and a prequisite is an audio only room. I'd build one above my garage but I hate this house being on a hill and am ready to be on some flatter land. Wife had it when we got married 4 years ago.

I believe I saw the auto formers were the same between B and B-2 and just needs a pair if .245mh coils for tweeters and some different caps. I priced all the parts using Solen caps and coils and coils and was very reasonable. Does it change crossover point at mid/tweeter?