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avguytx

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Posts posted by avguytx

    Tidal MQA vs. Qobuz, my impressions

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Shakeydeal said:

     

    Qobuz gets the slight edge in SQ. But more than that, the user interface of Amazon Music is horrible. Or at least it was last time I tried it.

     

    It's still horrible.  I dropped them again months ago.  Now, I admit that I do like their various playlists which is something that Qobuz is lacking severely.  About the only time Qobuz has any songs I like on a playlist, it's on that My Weekly Q.  If I'm listening via Qobuz, I pretty much have to know what I'm wanting to listen to where with Spotify, which I have the Family Plan, I can just pick a playlist and let 'er rip.  Just depends on the mood I guess.  I just wish Qobuz would come out with a Connect feature that works as well as Spotify.  Oh well. 

     

    Streamer wise, I either use the desktop apps on my Windows 10 PC or I use a WiiM Pro with their app on my phone, for Qobuz, and for Spotify, there's Connect.

    Epic CF-4 material

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    It's a thick vinyl-ish material that was most likely done with a heat press that formed the vinyl over the glued frame.  After it cooled, it was probably cut at the edges.  At least that's my guess. Mainly I think it's possibility because I used to be a rep for Q-Logic which was a company in Stillwater, OK that made custom kick panels for speakers and custom enclosures for subs.  They heated the thick abs plastic and dropped it down onto a mold that vacuumed it in place and cooled it down. But I could be wrong.

     

    Maybe find someone that can do that with vinyl and just have them recovered. 

    • Like 1

    CF2 Restore

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    Me personally, as I have a pair of awful looking satin black CF-3 v1's, I'd get everything squared up, corners, etc., and slap some new veneer on them and call it good.  Those are a cinch to veneer as it's only 3 sides to be done. Use some cherry, walnut, mahogany, etc and call it a day.  

     

    Or, just repaint them satin black.  That would look better than oak veneer that's splotchy anyway. 

    Speakerlab K's need a good home

    in Alerts!

    Posted

    @JoeR Can you post a picture of the back side showing which drivers are in the top section? Also maybe a pic of the woofers.  I'm about 6 hours away in central AR but I've made that drive many times. If easier on the pics due to the size limitation here, email them to me at avguytx at yahoo dot com.  

    Tangent 400 - What I can do to make them better?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    7 hours ago, konrad911 said:

    I always value the view of others as this allows me te make an educated decission rather than follow the gut feeling (which sometines is aligned in the end). 
     

    critesspeakers.com have sets to rebuild the xo. I can get them on eBay (easier for me) as well, should I go for it?

     

    Your best bet would be NOT to discuss using other brands of stuff here as they will delete your thread as they feel it takes away from their efforts.  Just sayin'.  To discuss other parts going in, you need to go to other forums...like AudioKarma, etc.  As a bonus, you will also be able to be free of some of the ID10Tic responses on this site.

    • Like 2

    (Sold) Altec 846b Valencia - For Sale (DFW)

    in Garage Sale

    Posted

    You must have added pics from an iphone since they have the HEIC extension.   So for everyone on a Windows machine wanting to see what these look like, here is a quick site where you can drag and drop to convert them to jpeg.

     

    https://heictojpg.com/

     

    If you have lots of pics, why not post them to a site and link them here.  That would save some steps for anyone interested.  Or, maybe reduce their size on your phone and maybe convert them before attaching.  I don't know...I don't use ios stuff.

    Tangent 400 - What I can do to make them better?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    I don't feel like CAD would have to be used to build the most basic "monkey coffin" boxes.  Have you taken any drivers out and looked inside?  Pretty cheaply made and those back panels would be your weak link, along with the front baffle, with minimal/no internal bracing.  I mean, they are just basic rectangle cabinets.  I built a set of Belle inspired clones a little over 5 years ago out of baltic birch and ribbon mahogany veneer using a tape measure, pencil, paper, and the usual tools (with plans).  But then again, I've built hundreds of boxes, grills, amp racks, door panels, etc., back in my 25 years of car/home audio.  If you bought wood and found a cabinet shop, or maybe even a school with a CNC, they could cut those out easily for a reasonable expense.  They are 35-1/2 x 15 x 14-1/4"  and weigh in at a paltry 45lbs as they sit so maybe a tad larger using thicker wood and bracing.  Forte's, in comparison, weighed in at 65lbs with the same drivers and similar crossover.

     

    But I know what you mean on the "color/veneer" part.  I have a pair of (102lb) Epic CF-3's that have the ugliest black satin paint job I've ever seen.  I'm going to re-veneer them sometime soon as time allows.

     

    I'm rambling...but just an opinion.  :)

    Tangent 400 - What I can do to make them better?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    As has been mentioned many times, the Tangent cabinets were the weak link in the chain being 5/8" wood.  If I were to ever come across a set, my plan of attack would depend on the condition of the cabinets.  If they were in good shape, I would just rebuild new cabinets out of either Baltic Birch or MDF, do some basic "non-crazy" bracing inside, and veneer them in whatever grain I liked at the time.  Keeping them the same size means that the grills can be manipulated to go back on again.  Come to think of it, I would probably do the same thing no matter what the cabinets looked like.  If I were going to go to the trouble of slapping panels on the old cabinets, why not just build new cabinets; it's not rocket science and all the parts will move over.

     

    But that's just me.

    KLF10 mid speaker is rattling.....vintage 1978

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    @winglet  So is the woofer with the missing dust cap the one making the noise?  Do you have the dust cap that can simply be glued back on?  As mentioned, Klipsch has no parts for anything but their Heritage stuff, for the most part.  If it's truly bad, look on e b a y, etc., for parted out speakers.  If you find some, buy two so you have a spare.  Personally, I wouldn't mess with changing out the capacitors in those as I would think they were still fine.  Now, if there is an electrolytic in each, that could be replaced with a new electrolytic like a Mundorf E-cap, which is reasonable.  No reason to replace those electrolytics with poly caps in that part of the circuit.  But, it's your money.

    CL: T-30 (Lakeland)

    in Alerts!

    Posted

    I just missed a $30 pair of T50's 45 minutes from me that had been listed for 2 hours and only needed a woofer.  I didn't need them upstairs but would have put them in my teenage son's room.  Dammit...

    • Like 1

    For Sale: CF-4 and Oppo 93 - SOLD

    in Garage Sale

    Posted

    I love my CF-3's but if I were to ever decide to spend bigger money on speakers, I'd buy CF-4's long before I would older Cornwalls, Chorus, or Forte's, etc.  But that's just me.

     

    Good luck with your sale!  And I know where DFW is as I lived there from 2001 till 2009.

    • Thanks 1
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