Prana-Bindu

It looks like the question can be rephrased: are there any multi-disc transports that can use the clock fed to it from a separate DAC? However, why would the clock information in the DAC have to be fed back into the transport unit? I thought the DAC derived it's clock information from the disc itself (read: the information being supplied by the transport. Wouldn't be irrelevant to the transport what the clock on the DAC is "saying"? I have to admit, I'm using this new vocabulary (clock) without having a full understanding of its meaning. So, please be patient with my questions. I also did not understand, Spider, how using "S/PDIF or TOSLINK or something" could eliminate the benefits of a high-end transport's clock. In fact, why does the transport have to use a clock to begin with; isn't timing of the signal a function solely of the DAC? All help is greatly appreciated. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

I already use a CD player with a six-disc carousel and an optical digital out, but I don't know whether the quality of transports makes that much of a difference compared to the quality of DAC. If the difference in transports is negligible, I'm set to go with a high-tech DAC. If the quality of transports is wide-ranging and relevant to the sound fidelity, then I'd like to know if there are any good, state-of-the-art multi-disc transports out there. My ignorance is the weakest link in my system.... ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

I really enjoy the convenience of having several CD's available for random playback at any one time, but I understand that there is a level of detail provided by high-end, single-CD players that most multi-CD players cannot reach. Is the reason for this gap in playback quality at all due to the quality of the transport devices? Or is the quality of the digital to analog converter the biggest culprit? As such, are there any multi-CD players/transports available out there that can be used alone or in conjunction with a separate DAC that will deliver the detail, timing and overall quality found in high-end single-CD players/transports? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am well aware that these differences would only be apparent in a system that can bring out such differences, so let's all assume that isn't a problem. I KNOW those differences can be quite dramatic, because I've heard two different CD-players (JVC and Arcam) matched to the same components in the same room and the difference was quite pronounced. Thanks for the beta! ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Absolutely the next upgrade to these lovelies: a disco ball, some sparkly lights and a wet bar. Mmmmmmm... sparkly lights.... If I'm gonna shave with my head right next to a LaScala, the mirrors better be fog-free. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Thanks for all the help! I had no idea that tube power ratings were so different than solid state. I'll keep you posted on my findings. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

I am a few months away from this upgrade, but I was hoping y'all would break off some beta on the subject. Curiosity about the match of a relatively high-powered (~40-80 wpc -- I said 'relatively') tube amp and the RF-3's has me in its grip. I'll have the opportunity soon to audition the VTL ST-85, and that's about it for local access. Do any of you have any suggestions about any other such amps? The VTL is within price range (1800), but I'd like to shoot for less. Does anyone have any experience with the Anthem AMP 1? The Rogue 88? I want that kind of power to minimize the loss in the lower frequencies from which these kinds of amps are whispered to suffer. I would use the preout in my Luxman LV-117 (no, it's NOT the hybrid integrated, it's the fully solid state POS), at least for a few months. Thank you for your help dragging another lost soul into velvety tube hell.... ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Ray: Are you being facetious? Geeezz! A wire stretcher.... Sounds like something out of Spaceballs. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Gnomore: No, that is not correct. I have heard somewhere that doing that (using both A & B speaker outs to the same speakers) can be hazardous to the speakers; not sure, however. As I understand the matter, biwiring means running two sets of speaker cable from the same +&- out posts on you amp to one speaker. One cable is used to drive the high frequency by attaching it to one of the two sets of +&- posts on the speaker, and the other cable is used to drive the lower end by attaching it to the other set of posts. If you decide to do this, be sure to remove the connectors used to bridge the two sets of posts on your speakers. If you do a search for biwiring on this bb, you'll find many explanations and much discussion of its benefits and comparisons with a similar practice known as bi-amping. Good luck. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Ok. I think I can field this one, as I had similar questions some time ago. A line conditioner usually does the following: 1) prevents current surges (and dips?) that can damage your equipment. 2) reduces radio frequency interference 3) reduces electromagnetic interference Different conditioners accomplish the task differently. For example, most conditioners in some manner store the energy they clean to be available to the components as the juice is needed. Other conditioner attempt to do accomplish the three goals mentioned above without using a capacitor-like storage of energy, because a problem has been identified with the former kind of conditioner running out of juice in especially dynamic audio. I have seen a third type of conditioner that actually converts the AC to DC and then back to AC, much like having your own generator dedicated soley to running your audio gear (very expensive). Whether you could use one depends on how clean your current is and whether you would even notice a difference. After I got my Chang Lightspeed conditioner, I noticed an improvement in video immediately. The improvement in audio took more time to notice, but it showed itself mostly in a quieter, darker background (less noise). I know of at least one power cord manufacturer that uses some kind of lining for the cord to remove interference. However, they are expensive, require a new break-in period everytime they are moved, and will attract derision from your non-audiophile friends. I think they are called PowerSnakes; not sure.... Good luck, and keep us posted if you decide to buy. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Charles: I assume the MC-225 doesn't have an extra set of speaker posts. With gear that sweet, why add more signal path? Will the C-15 accept a second amp? If so, you may want to consider a separate headphone amp. I see them advertised all the time, but I have no idea what benefits would be had over the MC-225; other than convenience, that is.... "Give me convenience, or give me death!" -- Dead Kennedys ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

While we're at it, let's get some info on just how stable the impedence is on the 5's and the 7's. I've asked this before, but to deaf ears. I apologize for bogarting on this thread. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Is this a tattoo or a finger nail polish question? ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

My dealer (Stereo West in Omaha, Nebraska) tells me the new reference won't be available until the last part of May or the early part of June. Whatever.... ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Thanks Ray! I'm very happy about the efficiency rating. I hope you don't get whacked.... Any idea how stable the impedence will be? ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

JimG: As Ray warned, you're gonna have to answer some questions now. However, since you seem to know quite a bit about the RF-7, I shall limit my questions to it. First of all, what is the expected efficiency? Second of all, how stable/unstable will the impedance be? Bi-wirable, I assume? What will be the crossover points? How do I sign up for a free pair? When will they be available at Stereo West in Omaha, Nebraska for auditioning? Thanks for your kind attention to these questions. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

BobG: I know I've bothered you with this question before, but it's been a while. So... Any word on the extensiveness of the new RF-7's impedance variations? What about the crossover points? I have read more positive than negative comments on the RF-3's compatibility with low-powered SET's. I'm kind of scared as well, as an audition of the Wright 3.5 wpc monoblocks with my RF-3's will cost at least shipping. FredT: let us all know how you fare with the RF-3's or whatever speakers you choose. Good luck! ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Anything on Mr. Bungle's California cd. It's not oversaturated with bass, but when it slams on, it'll make you pucker. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Will: Intuitively obvious indeed, if you're not hopelessly ignorant as I am. Thank you for the beta. I actually made the embarrassing mistake of posting my problem twice. The other thread lead to the same advice. BobG actually recommended taking each switch and knob through it's range of motion 100 times! As I described the matter there, I'll have to do this repetition in private to avoid being institutionalized.... Thanks again! ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

I can't believe it's not butter! Thank you very much for the frighteningly clear solution. 100 times.... I shall try the switching in conjunction with the contact cleaner. Of course, the ball-'n-chain will have to be away at the time, or I will likely get the thing taken away from me. BobG: Indeed I am in extensive debt to you for your help (here and in other matters), but the money that otherwise would have been spent on a new amp will be spent on a new amp. When other expenses are taken care of (right...), I intend to try out the Wright 3.5 wpc monoblocks. First, I gotta get the car. Then, I gotta get the khakis. Get the car, the khakis, and then you get the chicks. You get all that, then you get the monoblocks. Sounds like a plan. Thank you. You guys can drive my car, wearing my khakis, with my chickens, to listen to the Wright's whenever you want! ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

That's right. The right channel of my aging Luxman LV-117 (no, it's not the one with the tubed pre-amp section) integrated amplifier is frugal with its participation with the RF-3's; at least the one in charge of the right channel. The right channel cuts in and out at odd, but predictable moments. It plays well for a good hour or so after powering, then it quickly, but not immediately, loses the signal. Thereafter, the more dynamic portions of the sound at hand (be it from the cd player or the television) cause the amp to be faithful to its duty during, and only during, those dynamic passages. For example, when watching one of those contemporary flicks on the tele (from a cable signal) that emphasize the soundtrack by peppering the movie with music videos -- the musicals of the current youth -- and one of the songs emphasized by the flick gains volume as the primary track of the scene, the song comes through in two channels without distortion or an erratic signal. Then, when the video simmers down and we are taken back to the laughable dialogue and absurd situations, the right channel retires and the left is holding the bag that was the soundstage. Increasing the volume does not solve or remedy the problem, but enabling "loudness" (emphasis of the lower and upper regions of the frequency range) seems to put off the inevitable for a half-hour or so when listening to the cd-player (guided by voices kicks sea-bass' ***). I know it's not the RF-3's, because I got the same crap from headphones out of the amp (and I got no problems with headphones out of the CD player, if you were worried about it...). So I was hopin' somebody could give me a start on how to diagnose the bastard LV-117, so I won't have to play the non-refundable-downpayment-slow-deduction-game with Custom Electronics. Point me to the tools and the disease, and I'll do the cutting (or soldering, as it were). Distant One suggested some time ago that the right channel might be subject to DC contamination arising from a dry connection somewhere, but I wouldn't be able to figure it out where to look more closely than the electronics accessible by merely removing the top of the case (which revealed nothing obviously wrong to my totally ignorant examination). Please, if you have such knowledge, share with an idiot who has commited to purchasing a vehicle prior to ordering the Wright 2A3 monoblocks and the Wright line stage. Save me from a summer of struggle! Thanks for your time. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

That's right. The right channel of my aging Luxman LV-117 (no, it's not the one with the tubed pre-amp section) integrated amplifier is frugal with its participation with the RF-3's; at least the one in charge of the right channel. The right channel cuts in and out at odd, but predictable moments. It plays well for a good hour or so after powering, then it quickly, but not immediately, loses the signal. Thereafter, the more dynamic portions of the sound at hand (be it from the cd player or the television) cause the amp to be faithful to its duty during, and only during, those dynamic passages. For example, when watching one of those contemporary flicks on the tele (from a cable signal) that emphasize the soundtrack by peppering the movie with music videos -- the musicals of the current youth -- and one of the songs emphasized by the flick gains volume as the primary track of the scene, the song comes through in two channels without distortion or an erratic signal. Then, when the video simmers down and we are taken back to the laughable dialogue and absurd situations, the right channel retires and the left is holding the bag that was the soundstage. Increasing the volume does not solve or remedy the problem, but enabling "loudness" (emphasis of the lower and upper regions of the frequency range) seems to put off the inevitable for a half-hour or so when listening to the cd-player (guided by voices kicks sea-bass' ***). I know it's not the RF-3's, because I got the same crap from headphones out of the amp (and I got no problems with headphones out of the CD player, if you were worried about it...). So I was hopin' somebody could give me a start on how to diagnose the bastard LV-117, so I won't have to play the non-refundable-downpayment-slow-deduction-game with Custom Electronics. Point me to the tools and the disease, and I'll do the cutting (or soldering, as it were). Distant One suggested some time ago that the right channel might be subject to DC contamination arising from a dry connection somewhere, but I wouldn't be able to figure it out where to look more closely than the electronics accessible by merely removing the top of the case (which revealed nothing obviously wrong to my totally ignorant examination). Please, if you have such knowledge, share with an idiot who has commited to purchasing a vehicle prior to ordering the Wright 2A3 monoblocks and the Wright line stage. Save me from a summer of struggle! Thanks for your time. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Perhaps Klipsch can revive its high-end marketability by introducing speakers with high-quality horns at only the high and midrange frequencies and staying away from horn-loaded bass? Wouldn't that solve the size issue? Can Klipsch make Avantgarde's at Khorn or lower prices? The new reference speakers coming out soon seem to be a foray into contemporary trends in the high-end market, but they won't save the Heritage line. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Indeed it does help. Thank you. Let's hope the Wright's won't disappoint too badly in the low end of the frequency range.... ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

mdeneen: Thank you for your prompt help. Does the separation between amps when bi-amping occur at the crossover frequency specified for the speaker (1975hz for my RF-3's)? I ask because I'm planning on auditioning a pair of Wright 2A3 monoblocks, and I would love to be prepared to try to dedicate more power to the bass (for my RF-3's that would be 37hz-250hz) with a second, more powerful amp, without losing the Wright's dominion over the midrange (250hz-2khz) to the second amp. Just trying to be absolutely sure.... Thanks. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....

Dark: The Reference series will be expanded with the idea of making speakers with the dynamics of the Legend series and the accuracy of the Reference series. I know that there will be new speakers for each home theatre application, but I've only had interest in the two-channel applications of the new line. There was a thread in the Home Theatre board that has a lot of information about the new Reference speakers. I belive it was entitled something like "Klipsch announces new speakers line" or something like that. Do a search or sort through the Home Theatre board, and you'll find it. It contains about as much information about the new line as there seems to be information available. By the way: if you find out what the expected impedence range for the RF-7 is, please drop me a note. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way....