yojoe74

Anybody?

I ordered some Klipsch CP-6 outdoor speakers but what arrived were CP-6T. I have to decide if I'm going to return them or what. The CP-6T are the commercial-style 70/100 volt speakers but do have a bypass switch for normal 8 ohm use. However, the CP-6 are rated down to 70hz while the CP-6T are rated down to 83hz, per Klipsch spec sheets. So does the internal transformer limit the low-extension in the CP-6T set? Everything else is the same physically. Any chance the CP-6T would also go down to 70hz when using the bypass switch?

I'm looking for the spec sheets and/or manuals for the following speakers: SF-3, SS-3, and RS-3 II. I seem to remember a few years ago, Klipsch took down most of the old spec sheets, not sure why. You'd think they would offer a simple historical download page for these.

I'm interested in the KMC-3 for my kitchen counter.... Can anyone tell me the measurement of the power plug input on the back, measured from the bottom of the unit (including the little feet)? Basically, this will tell me if the unit can be placed flush against the back-wall or if will have to be pulled out some. My back countertop 'lip' comes up 3.25 inches then it goes back about an inch to the actual wall.

What are the grills made of on The One and The Capital One? Are they a hard grill or cloth or....?

Probably a real dumb question but is the R112-SW sub level on the top or angled like the other RP series speakers? It looks level based on some online pics I've seen but just want to make sure. Thanks in advance.

Planning an atmos-receiver upgrade soon as part of a total system upgrade... Will be purchasing a set of the RP-140SAs for my Front Height Atmos speakers. I've been thinking about mounting them on the wall up high, as opposed to setting them on the speaker. It would seem to me the effects would be better than bouncing the sound off the ceiling. See the picture below... would mount them to the left-right of the shelf and about mid-way between the shelf and the ceiling. Your thoughts? Bear in mind my Atmos Rear Heights will be mounted RP-140SAs. See pic below.

In the middle of a complete upgrade, aiming for a 5.1.4 Atmos-enabled system, (planning on eliminating my Surround-Backs due to the room not really being suitable). So my future receiver upgrade will be an Atmos/DTS-X/HDCP 2.2 model, but I'm finding huge price gaps between native 7-channel vs 9-channel amps. Therefore, I'm considering a 7-channel amp with 9-channel processing, using pre-outs to a separate 2-channel amp (probably for my Atmos Rear Heights). However, I've never used this set-up before, and wondering if its as simple as it seems... I have a mid-90s Pioneer VSX-505s receiver....my first receiver ever. Currently using to power my chair shakers (but honestly could care less about them). My question: Would it be as simple as connecting the pre-outs off the new receiver to one of the stereo inputs on my Pioneer VSX-505s, and connecting the appropriate speakers wires to the Pioneer, then matching the volume levels? Rear Panel View Pic of the Pioneer here. Pic of my rear wall attached. Obviously, my set-up isn't optimal but its the only option. It still sounds fantastic. Side note that my Audyssey set the RP-140SAs at 70hz crossover so these go pretty low. This was a surprise because no frequency specs were ever published on the 140SAs.

Excellent...thank you very much!

Thanks for the quick response, a pic would be great!

Hoping someone could post a photo of the bottom of the Atmos RP-140sa...supposedly, there are keyhole inserts on the bottom for wall-mount purposes. I've yet to find a picture anywhere online though.

Was hoping someone could post a pic of the rear of the RP-140sa, as I'd like to see the positioning of the keyhole bracket (per Crutchfield there is one).

So the new RP-440C center speaker has 500hz/1500hz crossovers (whereas the RP-250C has only one at 1800hz). I wouldn't mind an explanation of how that works and how a receiver crossover of 70hz or 80hz would effect the dual crossover of the RP-440C speaker. Probably a dumb question for some but.....

RP-440C FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 59-25kHz +/- 3dB* SENSITIVITY: 97dB @ 2.83V / 1m* POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK): 150W/600W RP-450C FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 58-25kHz +/- 3dB* SENSITIVITY: 97dB @ 2.83V / 1m* POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK): 150W/600W Copy/pasted right from Klipsch spec pages...how are these two speakers nearly identical in frequency response and power handling, yet their woofer sizes, weight, cabinet sizes, etc are much different?

Thanks, man! That's what I was thinking 39.5 inches for the 260s. Crutchfield actually has the height listed correctly.

So I'm trying to nail down my new fronts, centering around the RP-260F. However, I'm questioning the height dimensions of the RP-260F as listed on Klipsch's actual spec sheet showing 36.6 inches high. The smaller RP-250F is listed as having a height of 36.1 inches high, and the larger RP-280F listed as 43.06 inches high. So there is only a half-inch difference in height between the 250F vs the 260F? You can see all three speakers lined up next to each other on this asian video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCkQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmy.tv.sohu.com%2Fus%2F101866192%2F79152825.shtml&ei=fytJVdvbHoaigwSA5YDAAw&usg=AFQjCNElEf9-1jrua-qlflU2UeTdYY1rkA ...it seems clear to me the 260F is like three inches taller than the 250F and about 3-inches shorter than the 280F. Yet, as noted above, this seems to contradict the spec sheets as shown on Klipsch's own website. Anyone out there actually own the 260F that could measure the actual height of the speaker?

Any leads on where I could find a pair of decent SF-1 grills?

Update.... I started noticing some annoying clicks & rattles coming at random from my shakers.... enough so that I started to trouble-shoot the problem. I determined that using the Phono receiver input was the culprit. I switched to the LD/DVD input on my shaker amp (older Pioneer receiver), and literally maxed out the volume knob to 5 o'clock. Problem solved. Much, much more consistent rumble and no more rattling. Watched Knight & Day last night and it worked perfect. Now I know why some people say not to use the Phono input...it really isn't meant for use other than for records. The special voltage and secondary processing does change the input signal hand ultimately plays havoc with the shakers. I also removed one of the two FMOD 50 hz low pass filters because I read this: http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=9"These may be combined to produce 24db per octave slopes if a 3db attenuator is used between them. Keep in mind that two equal value FMOD low pass modules will increase the slope to 24db per octave and the crossover point will be 1/2 the FMOD value. Two 100 low pass FMODs with the 3db attenuator between them will become a 50 low pass 24db per octave crossover. This also holds true for combining FMODS with other equipment to alter the crossover point(s) and to increase the slope AND in that case you do not need the 3db attenuator. When ordering be sure to select the crossover point from the drop-down list. Passive device so there is no noise or distortion (transparent to your system). Color coded for crossover point."

You can buy Sub-12s new right now a lot of places for $250. Check dealighted.com...search for Klipsch.

Yeah, I almost pulled the trigger on a dual buttkicker set-up, but ended up giving the Aura Shakers a shot....sooo glad I did. I am 100% satisfied with their performance and don't need anything more powerful....and saved tons of cash to boot. It also personally makes me happy that I got to use my old Pioneer receiver instead of it sitting in storage collecting dust. I never thought I would use it again for home theater...and bingo... it was perfect for the shakers.

I've never had experience with the buttkickers, but given that they are CONSIDERABLY more powerful...yes...the buttkickers are likely that much better. They should be better, as you are going to spend probably 3 to 4x as much money for a dual buttkicker set-up compared to what you will spend on bass shakers.

Superedge, I definitely agree! I also asked for bass shakers for Christmas, and think they are an incredibly awesome addition to my (then) 7.1 system for 'next to nothing'. I originally mounted one shaker on each of my recliners and first tried to power them off the Dayton 150 amp...however, the effect was very disappointing. I promptly returned the Dayton amp and purchased two more shakers...mounting two on each recliner. Then, I dusted off my first ever receiver that I hadn't touched in years...a 150 watt per channel Pioneer Pro Logic amp...quite powerful. I wired each pair of shakers in series off the left & right speaker output, and input my LFE line-in to the Phono input on the receiver. It works tremendously! I didn't have to use a Y-cable for the LFE line because my Onkyo 608 main receiver has 7.2 capability....giving me a straight shot for both my Sub-12 and the shaker receiver. I also purchased a pair of the FMOD 50hz inline low-pass crossoves which work like a charm (using both back-to-back inline). Anyone thinking of using two subwoofers should seriously consider using bass shakers or some form of transducer as the 2nd 'sub'. I paid a total of $116 for four shakers, $9 for some speaker wire, and $25 for the FMOD crossovers...totaling only $150. Dollar for dollar, it might be the best home-theater addition I've ever made.

Yup....same situation here with my sub-12. Came to the realization last night that my sub-12 wasn't working, even though the blue light was on. Tested it on my basement receiver...no change...didn't work...got a quick hum when hooking up the RCA cable so it is not the driver. Definately a problem with the amp. Talked with Klipsch Support a few minutes ago...basically it was $164 for a new amp. Good thing is that it was in stock but the bad thing is that shipping was not included. Assuming another $16 shipping cost +/-... I figured the total cost for replacement would be around $180 with a 1-year warranty on the amp (with the rest of my sub-12 with an expired warranty). Decided to buy a new Klipsch Sub-12HG off amazon for $350 with free shipping...this is the High-Gloss version (confirmed 120-volt version). Basically the exact same version as the sub-12 except with the high gloss black trim. New with 2-yr amp warranty, 5-yr driver/speaker warranty. In my opinion, well worth the extra $170 cost to buy the Sub-12HG brand new.

No way is a new DLP picture quality being 'limited in comparisonto the other types of tvs'. DLPs properly calibrated and hooked up correctly offers a nearly unmatchable picture. Wall mounting a tv is way overrated, in my opinion. I think it looks ridiculous having a tv mounted up high on the wall. If you mount it down at eye-level, then you are likely going to have a 12" depth offset between your front speakers and the front of the tv (unless you wall mount your front speakers). The cost of a stand for a DLP is likely similar to that of having to buy a mounting kit for an LCD/Plasma. Also, the cost of replacing a bulb every few years is easily offset by the amount of money you will save on your electric bill over those years (compared to a plasma/lcd). I'm not bashing LCD/plasmas but just trying to point out that a rear projection DLP is a VERY viable option if you are on a budget but want a big screen. And they are 3D capable if you intend to go that route. I haven't bothered with the 3D part of it...not really interested in it.