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Donkeyshins

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Everything posted by Donkeyshins

  1. Purity be damned. I think that's the nicest looking MC240 I've ever seen. I love the red! Now all you need is some nice Russian K40Y PIO caps. -D
  2. If you were in the Puget Sound area and if it was the furniture-grade version (KP-115-SW) I'd be all over that in a hot second. -D
  3. The guy I talked to tried to sell me on getting the H-III upgrade kit. A little too spendy for me. I think the K53-Ti kit that's $84/ea. is for the actual driver, sans horn. The diaphragms (which may or may not fit a K53-K are $80/pair. However, they only sell the diaphragms as replacements (not sure how they verify - perhaps they as for S/N on the speakers). -D
  4. Sorry for the duplicate post. The forum seems to be not cooperating with my computer today. -D
  5. My neck of the woods then. I just have to walk down the Tolt Pipeline trail (from the east) to go to Redhook. -D
  6. My neck of the woods then. I just have to walk down the Tolt Pipeline trail (from the east) to go to Redhook. -D
  7. FYI - they also don't sell individual diaphragms for upgrading K-53-K to K-53-Ti - only replacement parts for K-53-Ti to K-53-Ti. John - how were you able to get the option to buy the K53-Ti diaphragms (I guess part of the problem is I didn't talk to Steve Philips). -D
  8. FYI - price is $84 per K-53-Ti not per pair. -D
  9. Am I correct in assuming that the K-53 Ti should be a drop-in replacement in a Heresy II? Will there be any unintended side-effects (e.g. is the K-53 Ti of a higher sensitivity than the stock K-53-K phenolic)? Thanks! -D
  10. The song is great and the footwork is fantastic! -D
  11. So no benefit to this then, or simply I wouldn't have to worry about too much bass? -D
  12. Is there any benefit to be had by swapping K-24 woofers for K-28 woofers in a standard (well, with Crites Ti tweeters) Heresy II? I understand the K-28 is nominal 4 Ohms compared to the K-24 nominal 6 Ohms and the T/S parameters are a bit different, but essentially the HII and HIII boxes are the same. Would I end up with too much bass (not really a problem with a Heresy, now is it?)? Thanks! -D
  13. Just to complete the circle, I decided to use a Parasound ZAmp 1.0 bridged to mono (90WPC). It's a great addition to my home theater! -D
  14. Good point. I'll give that a shot. BTW - I got it for $75. It's blond oak (or whatever they call it). -D
  15. I wonder how these would have done with K-42 woofers instead of K-22? The former are intended for a ported / vented enclosure as opposed to sealed and they're higher efficiency than the K-22 as well... -D p.s. You need to post your cut-sheet plans somewhere!
  16. I've got a line on a single KP-115 for use as bass reinforcement for a set of KP-250 speakers. I'd like to amplify it separately from the KP-250s and was thinking about a cheap Dayton plate amplifier from PE (I have a spare 25W model and figure it should be more than sufficient given that the KP-250s are being driven by a 30WPC Fisher 800c and the speakers have identical sensitivities). In order to install this, of course, means I'll have to modify the carcass of the KP-115. Is this sacrilege or should I just stop worrying and love the bass? Thanks! -D p.s. I don't know if this modifies the response, but it is a veneer model instead of carpet or black pebble finish.
  17. I would think that would work. Actually, after looking at what I have to work with, I'm realizing PWK didn't leave a lot of extra baffle space to play with. I think I'm stuck with what came from Hope. Ah well. -D
  18. Hmm...OK. How about changing the dimensions but keeping the internal volume the same (e.g. making it shorter but deeper)? -D
  19. I'm building a new set of home theater speakers out of the guts of three KP-250 speakers (two were salvaged from 'well-loved' cabinets while the third was assembled via parts from Colterphoto). The left and right speakers will be standard KP-250 with furniture-grade rather than industrial cabinets (my brother-in-law who is a cabinet builder and finish carpenter will be building new cabinets). I'm debating as to whether or not to go with a standard KP-250 arrangement for the center channel or try something a bit different. One idea I've had (since the KP-250 is a ported speaker) is to build a cabinet with the same internal volume but deeper and shorter with the K-42 firing out of the bottom and with the tweeter / squawker / ports firing out of the front. The bottom would be raised up a couple of inches so that there would be excursion room for the woofer. Would this work? I've never built custom speaker cabinets before - I've always used some sort of plans so I'm not terribly comfortable with going 'off map'. Thanks in advance! - Derek p.s. They'll be fed by an Anthem AVM30 piped through a Fisher 800c.
  20. Well, mostly because I already have an extra set of K42-K woofer, K53 squawker and K79 tweeter (KP-250b driver compliment) which I don't want to waste. Plus they'd be correctly "voiced" to the other two KP-250 speakers. - D
  21. Jocko - I was thinking about building a center channel to match my KP-250b front speakers and have a full set of KP-250b drivers (including the big-*** K42-K woofer) - do you think I could do something similar to your center channel but have the 12" firing down (or up - I'm agnostic) but the two ports firing forward and get a similar result as your pseudo-horn Dayton woofer setup? Thanks! -D
  22. I've been mulling over that very question...I was considering building frames around the corners, lining them with waxed paper, filling the voids with bondo then sanding flush. I'll need one frame for the top and bottom and one for the front and rear (or sides). Not exactly elegant, but it should hopefully work. -D
  23. Ha. My sub already crosses over at 80Hz, so I'm set there. I guess I can go full speed ahead with refinishing (probably walnut veneer - real wood) so my wife will let them into the house. [] The only other tweak I might do is swap out the tweeter diaphragms with some of Bob's titanium jobbers. Love 'em on my H-IIs. -D
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