msutton

Years ago I used Wendell Fabrics here in my state to source both the black and cane klipsch fabrics. Price was very reasonable and they were pretty much an exact match. I emailed Wendell Fabrics the other day and they replied back asking what model/version of fabric that I had ordered, which I do not recall. Has anyone else ordered from Wendell recently and know what the the model numbers for their Klipsch fabrics or know of another source that does not charge $100+ a yd? Thanks in advance

These were used on the original ALK Universal crossovers. Let me know if you have one, thanks

These are all 4 ohm woofers listed?

Looking for a single ALK universal let me know what you have.Thanks

So I have a g-17 air speaker and like many others the blue LED light on the side has gone out which makes connecting it to wifi difficult and confusing. It's such a wide spread problem it appears that Klipsch has released a "how to connect to wifi without the blue led" bulliton.. seen here: http://support.klipschgroupinc.com/kb/faq.php?id=51 So my question is, if I replace the tri-color led (one LED bulb that omits 3 colors, in this case red, blue, purple) will that fix the problem or is the issue more with the circuit board sending power to the blue side of the LED? I ask that because the red side of the LED still lights up. Haven't taken it apart yet and was hoping someone from Klipsch could chime in because a bulb replacement would be an easy fix for me. Thanks

"Thanks again for the help but ,really, with all the builders and Khornophiles 'round here, I assumed some one would know the actual distance between the woofer and front of the Khorn" Not sure if this is what you are looking for or not but: It can depend on the year model so you might have to open the hatch and take a look. Earlier khorns (im not sure what year this changed) had a seperate board that the k33 woofer mounted to and that attached to the motorboard. This was done away with at some point and the woofer attached directly to the motorboard. If your woofer is attached to only the motorboard, as the more current khorns do, then the distance to the front most part of the woofer is 4 1/16". .....1/2" for the motorboard, 2 15/16" for the >< shaped diverters attached to the motorboard and 3/4" for the khorn face. If it is a older khorn that has he seperate board in between the woofer and motorboard just add that distance obviously to the 4 1/16" - hope this helps.

hopefully these pics will help.

here are some pictures

i was looking up info on klipschorn serial numbers and even going by the chart i found posted on the fourm im not certain what year model khorns i have. i have a pair in oak that i was told were 1994 models when i bought them and have the ak3 networks...the serial for these is s/n: 110392755. i picked up a second pair of khorns this morning in black laquer that also have the ak3 networks but look to be newer than my oak khorns. the serial for these are s/n: KBBK17-9937002. can anyone tell me what year khorns i have? thanks

im unsure of the year, as the labels are worn badly, but i have an old set of empty lascala cabinets i was given and they have the same splitter as you describe above.

im in the market for some vintage tube gear and after seeing the dynaco name pop up many times thought i would do more research into their amps/preamps. from what i have seen online, dynaco products appear to be pretty basic inside and to the point. prices seem to be from very very cheap to quite reasonable. so some of the questions i have are, what are some of the better or more desirable amps and preamp models made by dynaco that would work well with khorns? also what level of service is required when you purchase a vintage amp such as a dynaco. i ask because i know so many send their vintage mac gear to terry dewick and rave about the improvements his service makes to vintage equiptment. i also fear being vintage, if out of spec there will be alot of noise transmitted through the khorns because of there sensitivity. and last, how does dynaco gear sound vs say solid state equiptment or for that matter other tube amps out there? thanks for your input

wow this post has really taken off since i was here last. i sat down last night and read though everyones comments and all though some differences on approach and personal opinions theres some good info here to be had so i appreicate everyones input. one thing that appears to be clear is that upgrading the klipsch 400/401 horn, either with a 1 inch horn, or 2 inch will make a considerable difference. thats good to know because its the upper part of the midrange that i dont like about my klipschorns. i just purchased a jolida 502 integrated amp along with a jolida j100 cd player and i hope the tube componets will be the start of a solid foundation for these speakers. as far as the 1inch to 2inch horns..it sounds like going to a 2inch would be slightly superior but that being said the money ramps up very quickly when you have to replace the horn and the k55 driver and i really have to decide exaclty how much im willing to spend to get the sound im looking for. since it hasnt arrived yet im going to be getting used to the jolida amp/cd sound and switching out the tubes to some NOS tubes that others have recommended to improve the sound of the jolida combo even further. another thing that is a factor for me is that i would like to stay with a passive crossover for the time being, either the alk or alk jr i believe. Ive read all the advantages of going with a active crossover, but want to keep things simple as possible right now. im still curious about the paudio/k69 combo as well..but from what i read the fq cutoff on the paudio horn is 400hz and dont you want the cutoff fz to be a half octave or so below 400hz where you crossover the khorn bassbin? i know there is already a dip in the 400hz range of khorns so would a horn with too high of a cutoff make things worse or not really noticable? also is it possible to use a passive crossover if you went with a 2way, or even 3way setup, using the paudio/k69? thanks for all the input you guys have provided

i have been following several of the different post pertaining to upgrading khorns to a 2 inch driver/horn and have been abit overwhelmed by all the information on different drivers and horns. im wanting to keep things simple and keep my khorns 3 way and continue to use a passive crossover. i have been looking for a drop in replacement to the k401/k55 that could work with a passive crossover such as the alk universal or alk jr. what is the opinon on going with the Selenium D408Ti 2" driver paired with one of the the selenium 2" fiberglass horns that bob crites sells. the specs say that the driver and horns are good from 400hz up so will this combo work with the passives that cross at 400hz ok? would this combo best the performance of simply upgrading to the trachorn 400s? thanks for any input

thank you all for your input! sebrof, when you said - Research the differences between EL34 and 6550/KT88, because the differences in tube types and circuit design would far outweigh the differences in the extra 10 watts of the 502b - do you mean that the jd302/El34 is a perferable design to jd502/kt88? i have read good reviews on both, but from what i understood from comparisons i had read was the kt88 amps would provide more in the bass area over the el34 amps. having listened to neither of these amps though, either might satisfy me in the bass department...im just worried having listened to solid state for so long and having controls for the bass (and treble) i will be unhappy if the sound is bass shy.

i have been looking at getting a entry level tube powered setup for my khorns and have been doing some research online. i have read positive things about the jolida line of hifi gear and think i have decided on a jolida 502 (60w x 2) integrated tube amp along with a jolida j100 cd player to power my 94' klipschorns. ive owned a couple of mcintosh solid state amps, but never a tube amp so im going on others opinions that i have read that tube amps will make these speakers come alive. can anyone comment on how this combo might sound as far as vocals, and just as important to me the bass output? if it matters, i think this amp uses kt88 tubes. i still have a few questions though switching over to tube amps such as, how do you adjust bass or trebile on an amp like this if the sound is not to your liking? it dosent appear to have any tone controls so you simply accept what you hear? one other thing is while researching i see there are several places that do mods or upgrades to these amps. i will probably experiment with different tubes at some point, but are any of the internal mods really worth the money as far as impacting the sound any great degree? thanks for your input

awesome work! any idea what the weight is of the finished speaker? also, any tips on how to cover the front panel of a jubilee hiding the screw holes, but still have acess to removing the front panel?

one of my cornwall I badges keeps coming on and im looking for the best way to secure it back to the grill cloth. they had some 3m double sided tape things at lowes but they were like 1/4" thick which would make it appear to raised up. any suggestions here? thanks

homemadeheresy, in your photo it appears you just have a strip of veneer a few inches wide at the front of the cabinet..and you say you are wanting to bookmatch it, so i take you have smaller width pieces of venner you are joining together? that can be a headache to cut all those making sure the grain runs parallel each piece for sure. i dont know if this is raw veneer or paper-backed veneer but as mentioned above by another member, i clean up veneer edges with a simple jig. you can do several pieces of veneer at one time. take two mdf boards that are a tad bit longer than the length of your veneer and sandwich your pieces of veneer between these two mdf boards, making sure the front edge of the mdf boards is perfectly aligned with each other. you want your pieces of veneer to barely stick out past the front of these mdf boards they are sandwiched between..maybe 1/16th of an inch past the front edge of the mdf boards and then clamp the mdf at each end. then you take your router with a SHEAR flush trim router bit with a bottom bearing and you simply follow the edge of the mdf board and it will clean off the 1/16th of an inch that is sticking out. some people do the same thing on the jointer but i perfer the router method with a nice shear trim bit like a freud or whiteside. i dont want to discourage you from using the veneer you have but on a project that size it would be much quicker, easier, and probably give you better results to look into using full pieces of 10mil paper backed veneer with the iron on method you had mentioned. i use a vacuum bag when i can, but have used the iron on method several times when it wouldnt fit in the bag and have had good results and its super easy. i am just not a big fan of contact cement as there is no room for mistakes or any open time to adjust. i have done the iron on method with both titebond III and heatlock glue from joewoodworker.com and each works well. with that method you can cut a piece of veneer just slightly larger than whatever you are covering..say the top. line it up iron it down, and once it has set for a bit then follow behind with the router and flush trim bit i had spoke about earlier to trim to size.i hope this helps,good luck

kg4guy, can you share more about what crossover you are using with your setup you have pictured? and its the k69 driver you are using with these horns? i am wanting to do a similar setup with a khorn bass bins and my crites tweeter. lastly, how does it sound to you (in 2 way and also in 3way) vs say a k400 with k/55 driver? thanks for any input you can provide, im up in the air on investing in the alk trachorns with k55s or investing in a pair of these 2" horns and k69s.

i have been saving for the alk trachorns, but wonder how this 2" horn/driver combo would sound in a 3 way arrangment with my crites tweeter and alk universal crossover? looks like it could be a potential to step up to a 2" driver for those on a budget like myself

i hope this helps. i have/have had quite a few klipsch speakers and this past weekend was comparing my 74' cornwalls to my rf-83s. i listened to each pair separately, then connected a cornwall to the left channel and one of the rf-83s to the right just out of curiosity. i think the sensitivity for these is pretty close with the cornwall being 99spl and the rf83s being 100spl. one thing i will add first though is although the cornwalls are in mint condition i have not updated the capacitors which are probably shot and i do plan to upgrade the k77's to the bob crites tweeters when i do the capacitors. that being said each speaker seems to have its advantages in sound. the rf-83s seem to be far superior in the highs and vocals though and for there price its amazing how transparent they are. even when i hook up a single rf83 in mono you can close your eyes and not know where the speaker is located along the wall in front of you...very cool. when listening to the rf83s as a pair vs the cornwalls as a pair, my first perception was that the rf83s had more bass than the cornwalls, but listening to one cornwall and one rf83 at the same time disproved this. the bass is actually about the same for each, its just the rf83s have more midrange "punch" , but its not really low bass. they have three ports in the back that give good punch when placed against a wall, but truly both the cornwalls and rf83s need a sub. all this being said, one positive that really stands out about the cornwalls is how dynamic the lower midrange is. its not punchy like the rf83s, but very wide and more pronounced. when listening to one cornwall and one rf83 at the same time, sounds like bass guitar were much more dynamic from the cornwall than with the rf-83s. it sounded as if the cornwalls were playing material that the rf-83s werent even playing in the lower midrange, i guess you could say it brought these lower midrange sounds to the front stage while the rf83s really brought the vocals out the most. i am hoping the updated crossover caps and new tweeter will bring up the highs on my cornwalls ....and although i have never heard a pair, i would imagine the cornscalas would really sound impressive and really make some improvements to the cornwalls upper mids and highs. some other things i will ads is that the rf83s are only about 10inchs wide while the cornwalls are about 3ft wide which has its advantages depending on how much space you have. either speaker is impressive and have found i enjoy more current music on the rf83s, while older material like credence, the beetles, etc sound better suited to the cornwalls. i sold a set of lascalas i had awhile back but would one day like to do a similar test vs the cornwall and rf83 with the lascala. i never got to listen to the lascalas in the new home im in but they are probably a better match to the rf83s than the cornwall. of course you can always look to the khorns but you really need to have the space and corners for those to be ideal. regards

i am in need of advise as far as connecting a powered subwoofer to a mcintosh ma6450 intergrated amp for a 2.1 setup. i have always simply used the sub out on home theater receivers i have owned and unsure of the best way to do so with a intergrated. i assume if i am able to connect a sub, the intergrated amp will send the full signal to the subwoofer vs how a sub out with a low pass setting like on a home theater receiver does, but i imagine the subs eq should do fine setting the low pass frequency? thanks for any input

i just happened across these on ebay and was wondering, why did these stock type B crossovers bring so much money? are they rare? they are from 1978 cornwalls and i would have to assume the caps are bad in these if they are original. looks to be a fairly simple network to build with new parts. i have a set of 1974 cornwalls that im looking to upgrade to either the crites or alk networks and looks like i need to put my stock type b's on ebay to help fund my purchase. heres a link to the ebay ad, and incase it dosent link properly the pair of stock 78' type b's brought $355.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260549603431&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

thank you all for the input. thats exactly the part i was looking for.

im planning on building a set of the ALK type B networks for my cornwalls and am gathering all the parts i need. the one thing i havent been able to locate online are the little L-shaped solder tabs that are used like on the ALK crossovers. they basicly mount to the board and give you a joining point for a connection. anyone know a site where i can order some of these. thanks in advance.