Bigdnfay1

Finished without riser

In 2002 I bought a pair of khorns and a Belle. They were all factory white. I used the Khorns as a model for a pair I built then sold the factory units and kept the Belle (B-K-FW 0N794). Did a progression of cab mods over the years.All drivers and network are stock. I thought this Belle would have to be pryed from my cold dead hands but medicial issues have come up and I have to sell it. Well enough of that. The cab is walnut except for the lower portion of the upper horn section and the riser between the upper and lower cabs, it is birch. they are custom stained to match my Khorn clones and polyed. All the cab mods can be easily reversed. You can strip and restain or veneer. I just wanted to give alittle history of this unit. I'll post it in the Garage Sale section. $450 pick-up only in Fayetteville nc.

I was watching NHRA Drag racing this past sunday and low and behold Klipsch monitors pointed at the crowd.

SUPER 8 Train crash

Try the audio test bench at www.higherfi.com/software.htm Big D

I've been following W.C.'s thread with great interest and it got me thinking about porting the jub in the usual manner. Knowing the port needs to follow the signal path, this came to mind.(sorry not to scale). So what you guys are saying it's a bad idea.

If you were going to port a jub cabinet, how large would the ports need to be? round or square? Big D

I have to agree with Coytee. The front panel is part of the structure.

I'm partial to the Cerwin-Vega 211-R's from the 70's. Refurbed a pair recently, new woof surrounds, mid and tweet diaphrams and new caps. These are awesome rock and roll speakers. Big D

Nice Job! Site looks great, but.............Where are the pie shaped logos?

W.C. My dad and I have a place at Lake Tillery and are up there most weekends,so I'm only about an hour away. We'll set something up. As for the holes in the motorboard. Their there to give the doghouse a little more volume and the woofer mounts are removable. I,ll be removing them and mounting the woofers directly to the motorboard. Big D

Tom's right. I saw the drift problem early in my build and decided to put the top and bottom on. It made things alittle more difficult. They're hard to see in the pic, I drew alignment lines on the top and bottom to position the panels in the right place. This lets you pre-drill your hole for each panel. Doing a great job by the way. I live in Fayetteville and would love to give them a listen when they are complete. Big D

I did build a prototype without much luck. It did increase the upper-mid slightly. Didn't do much for the low-end. Big D

I scaled a drawing on a piece of plywood and the centerline from motorboard to mouth is 49 inches. thats assuming the motorboard opening is 6x71/2. It would be easy enough to make it longer by making it taller and putting in another bend. What would be the right size mouth to achieve lower Hz than 100.

I have jubs and K-horns already. I've got some beat up hereseys I want to play around with. Thought that maybe horn-loading them might be an improvement. I love to experiment. Who knows what you may stumble onto. Big D

Well didn;t want to let the cat out of the bag until I had a few answers. I didn;t want to look like a total baphoon. What I want to do is build a prosthetic cab to the Heresey without changing the existing cab. This is my idea. This was done in paint and is not to scale...here goes.

OK...If horn loading is possible, what size opening would be required on the motorboard? Big D

If the low-end section was horn loaded(using the original drivers and network), would the bass response be improved? Big D

Here are a few novelty hot sauces from my collection. Sorry about the haze we have forest fires in the county.

My suggestion would be to sand with a 320 grit paper and instead of using a brush, use a 4" foam hotdog roller. Pour about half the quart into a small bucket and add about 3 capfulls of paint thinner. Stir lightly and slowly to avoid bubbles(not good). Mix throughly. Pour a small amount into a small roller tray and apply. be stingy, don't put it on to thick. Let dry and repeat. Only use 400grit next go round etc. Apply as many as needed to obtain the desired effect. Big D P.S. This is only if you don't have access to a spray gun.

This is not a serious project .I'm just playing around with some extra parts I have lying around. I was thinking about K-55-m's on the 511's and an altec DH2010A onthe 811's. I'll be using an active crossover(Rane AC-23). I can put them on a khorn bass bins or jub bass bins. Comments welcome. BigD

Hi all, I have a pair of 511b's and 811b's. Can you use an 811b as a tweeter horn without any ill effects. I want to stack them, 811 over the 511 in a top-end configuration. BigD

If you have the skills...build one to fit your needs. I started building a flexi-rack and got a little carried away. Probably overkill but it works for me.

Would these 2 drivers be considered time-aligned?

Geena