moray james

The Alerts list is a good knife it just has two edges so you have to be careful how you use it. Best regards Moray James.

Here is a link to one members experience along with some good photos. Best regards Moray James. http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/141614.aspx

Hello Gagelle: I have not compared Al's network to the stock one but if you read through Al's discription of the design process you will see that he goes to great lengths to taylor the network to the drivers and to insure that the load the amplifier sees is such that the net results in a very smooth impedance response for the finished speaker system. That means that the speaker is a much easier load for any amplifier to drive and the amp will do a better job and sound better doing it. Based upon my past experiences with upgrading crossovers Al's approach is the way to go and I am sure will be the better network. Combined with new and better capacitors and larger inductors this should be a significant step up in performance across the board when compared to simply upgrading the caps in a stock network. Add some of Bob's new Titanium tweeter diaphragms and new phenolic mid diaphragms and you will have a brand new high performance loudspeaker.Al's network provides greater attention to detail than the stock design. Remember Klipsch was working to a tight price point and a more complex network would have pushed the system price up. As far as I am concerned the speakers deserve a fresh network design built with top quality parts. That is a lot chealer to do than to buy new speakers. You always have the option to go back to the stock network design if you want to but I really don't think that you would want to.There are quite a number of Heritage owners who are using Al's networks who are very happy with the results. You can search the forum and read their comments. Good luck and enjoy your Forte. Best regards Moray James.

you can go to ALK Engineering and have a look at Al's Forte l crossover design. Click on loudspeaker upgrades and scroll half way down. Al has a detailed overview of the entire design process link is on this page also. I believe Al sells the stereo kit for this crossover for about $150.00 There are pictures of the install also I think. Best regards Moray James. http://www.alkeng.com/

Al do you have measurements of the before and after of the woofer with the stock network and then the response simulation with the new network? Also what does the new impedance graph look like compared to the stock? Best regards Moray James.

I would be interested to herar the comments from those who have owned both the Forte ll and the KLF20. Both have tractrix mid horns but of different style designs. So how do these mid horns compare? Individual strengths and weaknesses? Which one do you like best? Comments from Roy or one of the senior design team would be most welcome. The Forte ll mid horn has physical simalarities to the Reference series tractrix horns while the KLF20 is more in line with the CF and pro series tractrix horms.Your comment would be most welcome. Thanks and best regards Moray James.

If your cone has some scratches that you are concerned about you can paint a layer of white glue over them to make sure they are secure don't get worse. If your suspension has any holes you can patch them up with rubber cement. You dont need to be concerned with dents in the dust cap it is just cosmetic. As long as things are air tight you are good to go. Why not buy a couple of plastic or metal grill covers for the passives and then the cats can't get at them.Best regards Moray James. PS I have seen passive radiators on ebay they tend to go for about $50.00 each

Am wondering if anybody knows the design history of the K61K mid horn in the Forte ll and the K52 of the KLF 20? Has anybody done or have measurements of these horn? Has anybody done drect comparrisons between these two horns?Do they use the same driver? Are there any similarities between the K52 and the K-63-KN used in the CF-3 (aside from the throat size)? I am also interested to know the reason why Klipsch went from Exponential to Tractrix mid horns in both the Forte and Chorus version ll's yet in the new Cornwal lll they have a Tractrix tweeter horn but an Exponential mid horn. The Tractrix profile in theory has fewer reflections and opens up more quickly so it should be the better sounding horn. There is not quite a s much loading or squeezing of the wave form in a Tractrix horn compared to an Exponential so the Exponential will provide a little more loading, does this translate into greater gain in an Exponential horn and is the Exponential a bit more directional? What are the reasons for which profile Klipsch chooses to use? Anybody know. Klipsch design staff care to jump in here? Thanks and regards Moray James.

How about a nice way to really load your woofer well into a La Scall or a KHorn? Best regards Moray James.

Not that much of a project to move your reflex vents to the front of the cabinet. You can take the opportunity to fine tune the vent loading (adjust lengths). Might be time well spent. Best regards Moray James.

When you are ready to get dowwn to the repair business I would suggest a hard rubber mallet and make sure the whole existing glue line is broken open all around. That way when you re glue the whole thing is good and there will be no sections waiting to let loose later. Just my 2 cents. Best regards Moray James.

Chris those look great. Thank you for this labour or love. Best regards Moray James.

Ironsave: thanks for your experience. I was thinking of starting with something like good old JB Weld but plastic and glue are a hard combination to come by at the best of times. There are some auto body plastic epoxy glues. I would lke to salvage the woofer with the cracked cone but it could be a stretch to do so. Anybody else out there have any repair success with cracked plastic cones? (that's why I like paper, everything sticks to paper) Best regards Moray James.

Ironsave: thanks for that, do you recall the brand of epoxy you used? There are a number of "for plastic" types of epoxy on the market now but you need to be specific when bonding plastic. The right instant glue could also work but you need to know what the substrate materials are made of. So a little hands on experience is my best bet from a member here. Thanks for your help. Best regards Moray James.

Here is a member looking for exactly what you have! Best regards Moray James. http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/144204.aspx

I am looking at a couple of woofers out of a KLF20 to do some cabinet experiments with. One of the woofers has a crack in the cone from VC to suround. Has anybody here sucessfully repaired one of these poly cones? Any comments would be welcome. Best regards Moray James.

Brian: Peter's idea makes good sense. If you could incorporate some 3/4" soft wood strapping and then with a nail gun and glue install it so you make a fresh joint between the inside of the baffle and the walls you should be able to get things tightened up just fine. Just use enough nails to hold the strappin in place till the glue sets. Once all the glue is set up you could also install some screw on the front baffle into the strapping (pre tap the holes) and you should be good to go. Good luck with the project. Best regards Moray James.

Dennis you are right the TD145 is the auto version of a TD160. A little more complex than a bare bones 160. I was thinking of either the 146 or the 147 one has the plastic hub but I can't remember which and I thought it was the 145, my mistake. I just sold a 160 which looked just like the one inthe posted picture, nice decks. There is a ton of info on Thorens at the Analog Dept. see below http://www.theanalogdept.com

It is a decent to good deal given the apparent condition I would not have a problen paying $250.00 for it especially with the tips. It is however as far as I can tell not a 145 but a TD160. The TD 160 is a vetter deck than the 145. Good luck and enjoy.

Are you a good wood worker (close tolerance) or are you building with a skill saw? If you are having your pieces cut on a decent table saw or good panel saw white PVA wood glue is your best easiest bet. Stronger joint than the wood cleans up with water totally non toxic if you want a faster grab glue use yellow carpenters glue (still PVA) as it grabs faster but gives you less assembly /adjustment time to work with). Use masking tape along seams to catch squeeze out and keep it off the wood surface as it will show when finished. If your build is a rough cut or loose tolerance then a Urethane glue will expand to fill gaps but you will need clamps to hold it untill set. With white PVA you can clamp with masking tape if your cuts are tight and only need a clamp or two to keep things square. You can remove clamps in 20 min but 30 is safe to handel. If you are using butt joints make sure that you preseal cut ends with a dilute mix of glue and water. Open ends (ply or particle board) will suck up a lot of glue and can go dry on you so a pre seal is a good practice. White glue is probably the cheapest glue you can use. PL construction adhesive is great for fast easy assembly of braces and cleats inside the box and as a saftey seal on edges you think might be dry (leaky). If you have an air nailer then use white glue as it is cheaper and easier to use. With any glue less is more. You only require the thinnest of glue lines to yield the highest strength joint. Thick glue lines look bad and are weaker. Just for a reality check ask a few good cabinet makers what they would charge you for the finished job, some can even finish or refer you to the spray shop they use. Yes they cost money but they work better and way faster than your most optomistic estimate of your own work time and they have clamps tools everything. A good cabinet maker can knockup a set of cabinets in a morning before he has coffee. Weigh your options you might be surprised. I have found that even with my most careful builds my material cost is always higher than estimated due to miss cut and such wether just mistakes or oversights. A good cabinet maker just does not make those kinds of mistakes. Good luck and have fun. Best regards Moray James.

interested to see data on these two ten inch woofers or info on drop in replacement drivers. Thanks, best regards Moray James. (these are the woofers used in the KLF20 and the CF3)

Thanks Bill: glad to have figured things out. I have to say I am late to enter the Klipsch world thought I have looked in for decades. I could not be more impressed with the man the company and the people associated with Klipsch. This business with Klipsch being sold has me feeling like I have to run to catch up and worried I may miss some things if (when) big changes are made. Oh well what will be will be. Has any one done any comparrisons with KLF20's and Forte 0ne or Two? I ask becaude I am thinking that the dual ten driver cabinet designs ought to be the best of the lot. With the twin driver cabinet designs the two voice coils of the woofers combine to provide a big chunk of the inductance used to make the low frequency crossover. As such the bass section crossover inductors in the twin woofer designs are smaller than the single woofer versions. That's the reason why you read about some of the twin woofer designs hitting like jack hammers and having such great bass. Simple the amp is getting to controll directly a bigger chunk of the drivers in the twin designs. Very best regards Moray James.

Willand: I see you have both Quartet and Forte. Could you comment on how they compare and how they differ? I have a set of Forte ll now and I have a set of Quartet on the way. My best guess is that the Quarter ought to have a slight edge at the crossover between the woofer and the mid horn as the woofer is a little smaller in the Quartetand I would assume that dispersion of the 10 inch woofer at crossover will be closer to that of the mid horn. I expect the bass of the Fortell to be a little better than the Quartet and the Forte ll will play louder but overall they should sound like brothers. Your impressions as an owner of both would be most welcome. Best regards Moray James.

I had the same thing happen today my post did not post. Congratulations Amy you look great wow . Now the pay off is that you have an excuse to buy new clothes just in time for spring. Best regards Moray James.

Steve: of the speakers you have to consider I think that the Forte would be a good first choice from a resale point of view. The Quartet has the same mid and high horns as the Forte ll but it has a ten inch woofer and 12 inch passive (the Forte ll has a 12 inch woofer and a 15 inch passive) so it is more like a Forte ll. If you are happier to have a slightly smaller cabinet size and you are not looking for maximum output level I would go with the Quartet as the ten inch bass driver will have an edge at crossover to the mid horn when compared to the 12 inch woofer of the Forte. I expect that the mid horn of the Quartet will also have the edge over say the KLF 20 and the KG series. Upgrade your crossovers and your diaphragms to Titanium and you will have a set of long time keepers.Best regards Moray James.