dougdrake2

chuckears - Thanks for setting me straight I believe I was confusing that article with another I had read on the 'net. Doug ------------------ My System

So do you! DD ------------------ My System

I know several of us on the board have SVS subs, and I didn't know if you'd seen this thread on the Home Theater Forum about a driver upgrade being offered by SVS, with a rebate when you return your old driver... http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum/showthread.php?s=7468cad9e78d29fce7667c140ebef448&threadid=48345&perpage=30&pagenumber=1 Last I heard was that details should be available at www.svsubwoofers.com on the SVS News page by end of business day Monday, 2/18. Doug ------------------ My System

Hard to describe this, but I'll try. Let's call the top of drawing North, to make this easier. Can you 1) slide the bathroom "south" so that the north wall of the bathroom is flush with the wall that runs east-west across the middle of the drawing? 2) move the computer room to what is now the southeast end of the theater 3) make the theater in the remaining space that would span the entire east-west dimension across the north half of the drawing? I think that would give you a more rectangular room for the HT which may may layout easier. Doug ------------------ My System

You can also find 12-gauge speaker wire by Carol at many Home Depots for about .40/foot. Not sure how that compares with Partsexpress or Radio Shack. You can use a good video cable for the digital audio (electrical) or fiber. Radio Shack gold are reasonable, as are Acoustic Research (available at Best Buy). Doug ------------------ My System

MBM - I also upgraded from KG4s to Forte's about a year ago, and was pretty amazed at the same things you mentioned -- imaging, midrange, and bass. I loved every aspect of them, but I kept my KG4s 'cause I love them, too. I think the 3-way versus the 2-way makes a big difference in their sound. I read in a review by Julian Hirsch (of the Forte I's), I believe, that he found the Forte's sounded best NOT toed in, but facing straight into the room, unlike most other horn speakers. And placement seems to make a difference with these, perhaps more so than other models of Klipsch speakers. I upgraded again to Chorus, but I'm keeping my Forte's, too. Just too darn good to part with! Enjoy. Doug ------------------ My System

Hip - I'm sure you are aware that you also have to provide your own amplification for the CS SVS subs. If you already have an amp/old receiver you're in great shape. Otherwise, better figure that into the cost. You know, for only $80 (plus maybe a bit more shipping) more, you could get the 20-39CS, which is kind of a Swiss Army knife of SVS subs. It goes deeper than the 25-31, yet is more musical (I am told) than the bigger SVS. Just a thought... Doug ------------------ My System

MagnumMan - Another non-audiophile rears his head! Hooray!!! I think we might need a dedicated Forum for Bass Shakers, just like the tube guys . My thinking on the Aura purchase was "hey, it's a toy -- let's experiment" so I was unwilling to invest much money in it. For their purpose, which is just infrequent couch-rumbling, I'd hesitate to spend any more. I'd rather buy a second SVS sub, or a new bigger one, and go that route. Doug ------------------ My System

Hi Troy - I think the problem is those darn bass shakers Seriously, are your mains set to small when you are using the sub, or large? It sounds like you are getting an interaction between your mains and your sub, which disappears around 80hz (coincidentally the same as the Denon fixed crossover where it pulls the bass away from the sub). Try setting them to small, and see what happens. Also, try sending bass to sub only and not front&sub. Also, you COULD use speaker level inputs to the sub, and connect your mains to the sub and bypass the Denon bass management. That would let you blend the crossover at a more suitable level. Doug ------------------ My System

Pascal - www.audiogon.com Bonjour! Doug ------------------ My System

encarsia - Give the Quintets a listen, but also listen to them for music. If you intend to use your system for more than the most casual of music listening or background music, I'd suggest stepping up to the Klipsch Synergy System 6. It will do nicely in both HT and music. Doug ------------------ My System

Convention would have you connect the one with the writing on it to the positive terminals. But as long as you are consistent, it doesn't matter. Doug ------------------ My System

Well, eq and t-man, I guess the three of us make the three customers that bought these crazy things! $5 each?? Sheesh, and I thought I got a good buy at $25 each (self-powered). TTK - The monkey came as a purchase incentive with my SVS sub. In fact, that's where he lives. He's gets kind of cranky during the depth charge scene in U571, but he's pretty well behaved the rest of the time. Now, if I could just keep him out of the trunk of my car -- keeps making an awful racket back there, but the rest of the folks in the 'hood seem to like it. Doug ------------------ My System This message has been edited by dougdrake2 on 02-13-2002 at 06:56 PM

User - All are welcome here! Can't wait to read some more of your enlightening, uplifting posts!!! IMHO, opinions can be rendered without resorting to personal attacks. "If you read any articles on high end systems and especially bass, you'll always find that fact to be true. Bass shakers are ghetto and from the lack of responses on your thread, you can see nobody else has them either." I believe Stereophile Guide to Home Theater did a very serious review on bass shaker-type devices in the past year or two. You better alert them to their ghetto tendencies. Doug (and his monkey) BTW - I'd be interested in reading about your experiences in hearing 20hz bass without feeling it. How'd you accomplish that? ------------------ My System

Well, I don't have a Yamaha receiver, but I think it works similar to my Denon. Initially, set all speakers to small in the speaker configuration, say sub "yes", and send all your bass to your sub. Set the crossover on the sub to its highest setting so it doesn't get in the way of the crossover in your Yamaha. Get a Radio Shack SPL meter (analog) for about $35 and an Avia Home Theater or Video Essentials setup DVD so you can calibrate the various channel levels. Trust me, your ears will fool you. These disks will also help you determine the phase setting for your sub, but essentially set it where the bass output is the strongest/cleanest. You can also calibrate your TV with these disks -- most TVs are horribly set from the factory, optimized for viewing in a showroom, and set way too bright and too much color saturation. When you first correct the settings, you'll think it looks dim and dull, but over time you'll appreciate the quality of the picture and you will notice more detail and richness in the images. Then, you can play with setting the main speakers to large, and sending bass to sub alone or bass to sub and mains. See what yields the best overall sound and SPL levels. Then, you can play with hooking the sub up using the sub output from the Yamaha or using the speaker output for the mains (and then running the mains off the sub's speaker connections and playing with the variable crossover in the sub versus the fixed crossover in the Yamaha), but save that for later. Doug P.S. - If I may be so bold to suggest, and I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, that you might want to swap out the RC-3 for a KLF-C7, the designed matching center for the KLF series. They are available on Ebay for a song, and you might be able to just about break even on the sale of the RC-3. My wife gives me audio components with the understanding that it is really just a pool of money, and she is fine with me swapping stuff out, selling things she gave me, etc... since it is all related to the home theater. ------------------ My System This message has been edited by dougdrake2 on 02-13-2002 at 11:01 AM

The "which receiver should I get" question always generates (or usually does, anyway) a flurry of responses. There have been several threads recently on this subject, in your price range, I believe. You might do a search using keywords such as recommend, Denon, Yamaha, which, etc... in this HT forum, if you haven't already. You'll hear Denon, Yamaha, HK, Outlaw, and Onkyo mentioned quite a bit. Doug ------------------ My System

Don't know whassup with this vendor, but maybe you can source the components and build yourself a perfectly matched center/surround setup, a la HornEd! I think this seller has other KLF units for sale as well... http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1332579220 Doug ------------------ My System

The decoder ring: ------------------ My System

http://classifieds.yahoo.com/display/merchandise?ct_hft=detailnp&intl=&cc=merchandise&cr=&cids=merchandise-1013459589-6467461&refsrc=search Doug ------------------ My System

Earle - Had the Acurus since summer. No problems at all - I don't think it ever gets out of idle, even jamming at high volume. Runs cool as a cucumber! It really brought the lows to life, as well. Doug ------------------ My System

Sound - Sorry if I was unclear...I don't have any preference of Cornwall I over II. I just think the Cornwall, as a speaker, would be my first choice, followed by the Chorus and Forte. I wouldn't know a B2 crossover from a B2 bomber!!! Doug ------------------ My System

Wellll, we're kind of in limbo in sub-land here. I have a Velo CT-120, and picked up a used SVS 20-39PC locally, and then got a Velo F-1500R servo for comparison. Haven't had a chance to work out the new Velo yet. Doug ------------------ My System

...and if the SVS are out of the budget, at least jump to a 12" sub -- I think you'll find a 10" a little anemic in that room. After all, HT demands some real bumping! Doug ------------------ My System

Earle - I like the way all your horns line up across the front at the same level. That works well. I have 2 pairs of the very same B&W Solids pulling remote duty in the kitchen and master bath -- they work well for their size! Doug ------------------ My System

Hi dagthomas - The N in the Serial Number indicates they are from 1975. See the "decoder ring" in this post: http://216.37.9.58/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000843.html Doug ------------------ My System