mike stehr

They still sell Cat5e teflon.

It seems like if a guy can solder, and willing to shell out a little over a grand, then the moondog monoblock kit seems like a good start. The naked kit with no tubes. Then a guy could slower source the better parts necessary a little at a time, along with the tubes. It would take patience and time. The only way I could probably do it, though. Or you could spend the $1900 and get 'em full blown. That is nice about these monoblock kits, the upgrade options. IMO! IMO! Wish I had a grand. THANX!

I don't think I can swing what you want for the Acurus 5 channel, Boa. It would be nice with this crossover kit, though. THANX!

Right on EAR! Right on! I wouldn't wanna scrap, but I would sure like to get in with the 24lb sledge NAD BOSE bash! Monster trucks, dynamite, it would be great! Seriously, what would be a good amp for these 16/46's?~

I was searching out of pure boredom at Audio Review about the NAD 2100, 3120 whatever. They all had the same complaint, pops. I geuss it's the start-up relay switch/switches they either go bad or they get a cold solder joint over time. Notice it has more glass fuses than most vehicles from the Seventies. Maybe that was a Air Conditioning circuit you were trying to chase out. (And they already pulled the pump.) The Hell with it, I'm gonna scrounge up some sort of cash for a sub amp. Maybe I can work the auction sites, Caveat emptor!

Ear! What! You Don't like NAD?! YOU BAS***D! YOU SONOFAB**CH, I'M GONNA DRIVE UP TO MONTREAL AND F***ING KILL YOUUUUUUU!!!!!!!! Naw, I'm just kiddin'. Yeah, I should start pondering a better sub amp. (I'm gonna fix it, why not? seems practical.) Oh well, It will get me by until I find better. It was a cheap hock shop amp, anyway. Kick me some ideas on what brands of a good Monoblock amp that would push a 16/46? I would really like it to push two, due to lack of funds for two monoblocks. Please no PE plates, or Pro sound. I have to go secondhand here, as well. Krell, Carver is cool. Some products end up with a bad reputation, who knows why sometimes, and who cares. Bad rep or not, you still have to respect the manufacturer's of these products. They both make fine gear. Now, Bose? LOL! You could give me one of your amps. I'll swap ya a pair of 1970 Sansui Sp-2000's for it. They play Brittney Spears just like it's supposed to be! NAD 'Never Again, Dammit!'

Thats good! LOL!

Ear ain't bad if you can read between the bragging, he has obviously listened to a lot of gear, so his opinions can have merit if taken with a grain of salt. But Bob Carver still sucks.

It's all good, Ear! People gotta make the best out of what they got. Be glad people show interest in the hobby, not by what they use. A little bashing keeps things lively, though. (But with respect, due to one's interest in audio.) Good point, one needs to know products, how to find them secondhand, and how to work 'em. I found a pair of Chorus II's and a Yamaha MX-1 amp and CX-1 pre-amp for $378 at a thrift store where I work. The Chorus's had a bunk tweeter and crossover, but I fixed that, and upgraded the crossover. The Amp and Pre were perfect. Now this isn't exactly the Esoteric SS gear you have, but the MX-1 and CX-1 isn't really cheesy reciever type gear. I just purchased a pair of SVS 16/46 subs, they ain't ultra's, but they will do the job! The only lame thing is, my NAD 2100 power amp has a bulged cap, and my subs are dead in the water. I tried the subs when I got them though, The NAD worked rather well with the SVS's. I have a manual coming, and plan fixing and possible upgrading for the NAD. This and the active X-over kit I got for subs, then I should be sounding pretty decent. I'm just a two channel guy basically. Oh BTW, Carver and Krell SUCK S**T! HAR! HAR! HAR! HAR! HAR! YUK. HAPPY NEW YEAR, EAR!

Here's the site for compression horn speakers for cars. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/products/horns.html Interesting. THANX!

You know what I hate, is when you talk to the average schmuck about audio, and the first thing they bring up is how great Bose is. They are like Nazi's, brainwashing people with propaganda about their products, and then destroying any sort of threat to their existence. Thats okay, I'll never buy their products anyway. I wonder who actually patented the Elliptical port?

Howdy Al! I just made X-overs for my Chorus II's using the original schematic. Used Solen air cores, and caps. Still playing with the mid, though. I had a 5.6uF Solen bypassed with two Harmony 0.22uF. (They didn't have a higher value.) Sounded pretty good. I had some extra money, so I picked up a pair of Crescendo 6.0uF caps. (These are double the size of a Solen 6.2uF.) Them Hovlands are spendy, I'm sorry. Sounds a little better. I ordered some cheap Madisound Carli polyesters on a whim. I tried a lower value, 15uF polyester, and it seemed to really smooth out the mid-horn, but it was a little too low. So I'll try a 6.0 Carli, to hear the difference. I'll probably end up sticking with the Crescendos. The mid circuit still uses the autoformer, of course. The X-over is the same as the schematic, except 3.6mH (Solid 12awg) for the woofer, instead of 3.5mH, and 1.8mH (14awg litz) for the midhorn, instead of 1.75mH. Couldn't afford to have 50 custom wound. But the resistance for the 3.6mH was .55 ohms. The stock 3.5mH was .59 ohms. Real close. The only resistors of quality without stacking, was the Mills 20 ohm 12 watt. Expensive, but probably worth it. Boy, the high end came to life after this upgrade. The bass is tighter and clean, though I may have lost some bass, it's probably me being used to boomy speakers over the years, so I'm dismissing it as that. I have a pair of subs for the bottom end anyway. They seem to be getting more bass as time goes on. (The crossover's only have about 10hrs on them.) I'm in the Solid State realm, with a Yamaha MX-1 amp, and CX-1 pre. Thanks Al, for having your site, with those nice pictures of your crossovers. I spent one night looking at the Cornwall X-over photo and the graphic. With this, I could ponder out a layout for the Chorus II, the solder posts, terminals, etc... It helped out a helluva lot. (Plus you helped me out on a couple of questions on the BB.) You are doing the Klipsch heritage owner's a great service, IMO. Hopefully these guys will keep you busy this coming year! THANX! And a Happy New Year! PS, I think Kelly needs to do some DB testing.

OOPS! Sorry Ear! I geuss I didn't mention I had a pair of Chorus II's! Still.

Well, how about a greasy pork chop? What I don't understand, is when Klipsch started making Dynaudio contours. Everytime somebody posts about other brands of speakers or Klipsch, you retorte with the Dynaudios. I assume you have the 3.0's. A 3-way(3-way?) floor stander with more than likely Scan-speak drivers. $5000 a pair? I hope you did not pay this, I'm certain there are kits for the contours, and would be into it for around $1500 to $2000. Why aren't they Di-appolito MTM? I understand you get some serious imaging from this arrangment.(MTM.) If you ever looked at the crossovers on those contours, you'd understand why you need a kilowatt SS amp just to push the damn things. Then you write that 30 year old general brands of speakers are not serious on the Klipsch forum, and the forum is about about Klipsch's. I know you have Klipsch speakers, but you wouldn't think so, with the big raves about the Dynaudio's. I didn't pay anything for my old relic Sansui's, And I bet Ratboy didn't pay much of sh*t for his Fishers. Hell of buy over a pair of 5000 dollar contours, and of course they will sound bad, like a 30 old general brand loudspeaker should. (When compared to a Dynaudio contour.) What about the classic JBL's, Altecs, and all the esoteric loudspeakers of yesteryear. Why did all the Japanese snag these, because they are boomy and uncoloured? If you like the sound of the Dynaudio contours, then you will never like the old school Klipsch, and more than likely new school Klipsch. (You just use Klipsch for Home theater, right?) There are Forum members that do not have that much money, and if somebody did have overpriced Wilson audio speakers, would they be on a speaker forum for a company that makes high efficiency loudspeakers? This is another point, quite obviously your a SS guy, and you are on a BB for a company that makes high efficiency loudspeakers. And uh, High sensitivity and valves go hand in hand. If you have read farther up the thread, you would have noticed I own a pair of CHORUS II's!!!! Solid state is fine, if it stays in class A at lower to moderate levels. (Hell, I can't afford tubes, I'm on the SS side, but there is a lot to had with Solid State, anyway.) Sorry Ear, but you ASKED for it. HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Why would you buy a SVS branded sub when you can build one? Maybe to save six hundred bucks?! You pretty much answered your own question. But use the best drivers that money can buy, otherwise, why DIY if your going to use mediocre drivers?

Good to read you cured your problem, Mike. I think I'll stick with taking out the main woofer than the passive, due to the T nuts. This way I won't take a chance of stripping out the screws on the plywood. Why didn't Klipsch use T nuts on the passive? It would have made sense. THANX!

Is their much of a market for Tube active crossovers? Using tube actives, one can ditch the passives inside the speaker. Of course you would need at least two 2 channel valve amps, with the active tube two way. Then use a active using solid state,(slop amp active) For the SS amp woofer duties. Or do it with 3 way tube active x-over, and use a mega powered valve amp for the woofers. I geuss a guy could tailor each tube amp, to run their respected drivers without actives, but still would require some passives. I Don't Know! Time to celebrate! HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Gee Phil, Let's hope the coils don't short out on these things, maybe resulting in a couple of fires with a custumer or two. And PE will be in deep Poo Poo. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Around 35,40 bucks. Get the analog one, you can get a tighter reading with the meter over the digital one. I need a test tone cd to get any other use besides measuring SPL. TV mentioned one, Autosound 2000 or sumthin'. THANX!

Are those PIO cans Aerovox or Revox's? I scrounged a pair of those off a couple of 1977 Digital printers, they were the bypass caps for the transformers. Hell, they are even 2uF! 660v. I wouldn't think that Type B network would fare to well with solid state amps, Tubes, yes. I figure tubes with a Cornwall is better off with the stock X-over network.(Or them fancy Jensens.) With AL K's network? IMO, this would be better off with Solid State amps, I think, I geuss, I don't know? Would Al's network sound good on Tubes? (That seems to be the million dollar question.) My two cents?, you got valves, PIO capacitors and tubes have been hand in hand since our freinds at Bell Labs got together. The designs of new Thermionic devices are mostly what? Designs from the old days! (With some differences, of course.) Makes sense that the high tolerance PIO cap works so well, of course I can't forget that the PIO caps have tighter tolerances now. Bad iron will make for a bad valve day, also. But doesn't everyone agree that the prices for 'audio grade' capacitors in general, are totally ridiculous? IMO! HAPPY NEW YEAR!

The Rat shack SPL meter manual says, that the weighting is for measuring a particular frequency range. 'A' weighting measures frequencies in the 500 to 10,000 hertz range. The C weighting measures uniformly over the ranges from 32 to 10,000 hertz, giving an indication of the overall sound level. There is no center and average, A and C are for different frequency scales of measurment. A is for more real world measurements, dealing with the frequencies most sensitive to the human ear. C is for more uniform measurments. I use C on measuring SPL on tunes, the meter can get down to 32 hertz. Notice that the Radio Shack SPL meter 33-2050 can only measure down to 32Hz, and only up to 10,000Hz. There is mods to fix this though. The other night I measured 96 or 98 Db's from about eight feet from the speakers in the listening position. 12'x 14' room with a 7' ceiling. Yamaha amp and pre turned up to about 9 o'clock on the volume, with a pair of Chorus II's. I could crank it way more, buy why? Ear, don't deny the power of old school speakers. Those Fisher's are probably pretty good speaks! I have a couple pair of ancient Sansui's. They sound pretty damn good for old school. THANX!

My buddie got his 61' sony for $2000. Shop around.

Hopefully a BB member will take them off your hands, you know They'll get good care. And maybe down the road you could find another pair. Man, that's a rough sacrifice, I hope you'll still have some sort of gear for musical enjoyment. Hope things get better, it's a new year.

Tom makes a good point on the pro series products, they ain't nuthin' pretty, but there could be a lot to be had here with these various lines of speakers. Though the white some of the serie's come in, wouldn't be bad looking. THANX!

I'm totally ignorant to this subject, so excuse me. While I know it's important to have a good quality tube with the essential parameters desired, but doesn't circuit design topology of the rest of the amp play a major role in the overall sonic achievements? I know quality of the transformer, and when there are trannys used for output, are a couple things. I know tube rolling is very important, but OTOH, IMO, tube rolling can be not such a good thing if the basic circuit design topologys of the rest of the amplifier suck. But like I headed, I'm totally ignorant to this topic. THANX!