OO1

How are you Mark -do you have a list of the drivers - tx

- Morey - your scala setup with the k402 is super fantastic looking - awesome - how does it sound - can you please tell me what driver is behind the k402 - tx

klipsch actually still uses the k28 in the H3 UPGRADE KIT - I spoke to them on the 3rd of june - H III Update Kit OM Final 061024.pdf

super - thanks

can someone explain to us the difference with capacitors - per example - SONICAP -ERSE - SOLEN - when you see Klipsch original factory crossovers - I never see brands like DAYTON- SONICAP - SOLEN - ERSE - it is always some weird brand - made in mexico or somewhere in asia - -

the k28 is a definite improvement on the k24 since it is a 4Ohms woofer -[Y], I recently got a pair - so the testing is done -the bass is up - I dont know how to measure it - but you can feel it right away - strong and punchy - -the Tangent T-400 is a stretched version of the heresy by almost one foot longer -so it will deliver even more bass than a H2 to H3 comparison - -the k23 is also a 4ohms woofer but I have never seen or tested one- -take care -

Marvel - can you please elaborate on the filter mod - ( If you do the filter mod to go along with it, they are flat to about 30Hz. I wouldn't really call that 'adds some bass effect'.)

I tried the upper enclosed horn modification and the lower one that you are showing - both work but nothing to really brag about - it adds some bass effect -- but this aint like a Cornwall - I find it alters the quality sound out of the Original LasCala setup - - the real improvement is done by adding a subwoofer - setup - like the SW-15 series from Klipsch http://www.klipsch.com/sw-15 - http://www.klipsch.com/sw-15-ii - these subs alone bring out the low frequencies that the Lascala cannot reach - a single is sufficient - as it also carries a passive radiator - -Klipsch had another solution which was the way the original design was made to work - simply adding a second Lascala bass bin - -good luck -

I understand that your advice is to move the mids and HF up a tap, basically raising the spl by 3db and change the mid cap - to what value should I change the mid cap to - thank you

I was wonderIng what is the DCR average reading for the K42KP pro 12 nch woofer - thank you -

Neil - Thank you very much for the HERESY II grille frames - they got here in excellent condition -and I will put them to use very soon -

Gentlemen - Can anyone tell me what is the NORMAL - DCR reading of a Klipsch k42kp 12 inch woofer - thank you very much - '

check the woofer or the bass bin panel /door -

Gentlemen - I just bought a couple of k42 KP woofers - I was wondering if these can work in a Heresy I or Heresy II cab while using the original crossovers - being 8 ohm woofers alike the k22 and k24 - can one expect a better sound - more detailed tones - or is it back to square one - the k42 kp can handle more power so can I expect to being able to have the speakers go louder before the woofer reaches the distortion levels - -finally - is the original HIP crossover that uses the EVM12L Compatible with a K42kp - I understand that this is very similar to the AA netword - tx - your input would be appreciated - very much obliged -randy -

Gentlemen - I just bought a couple of k42 KP woofers - I was wondering if these can work in a Heresy I or Heresy II cab while using the original crossovers - being 8 ohm woofers alike the k22 and k24 - can one expect a better sound - more detailed tones - or is it back to square one - the k42 kp can handle more power so can I expect to being able to have the speakers go louder before the woofer reaches the distortion levels - your input would be appreciated - very much obliged -randy -

I would definitely need these - pm sent - tx

Gentlemen - I just bought a couple of k42 KP woofers - I was wondering if these can work in a Heresy I or Heresy II cab while using the original crossovers - being 8 ohm woofers alike the k22 and k24 - can one expect a better sound - more detailed tones - or is it back to square one - the k42 kp can handle more power so can I expect to being able to have the speakers go louder before the woofer reaches the distortion levels - your input would be appreciated - very much obliged -randy -

thank you Mr Crites for showing the pictures of the 2 - - -I had 3 of these OEM diaphragms made by EV - with the copper-beryllium flat leads - I recently installed them - no comparison at all with the k77F or aftermarket diaphragms - they have this consistent tone reproduction of sound in the high frequencies - even at low power - this type of copper -alloy is also very highly conductive - -the aftermarket and K77F tweeters on the other hand are less clear in sound reproduction - one needs to raise the power to hear the detail of the melodies - hence , as they are always pushed to their limits - they will fail prematurely -

let's bump it

love the bump

lets bump it again bump

Any advantage with MDF is offset by the fact that as the box ages , you start having issues with the meterial itself reacting to the elements - when it is new , MDF is litterally perfect -edges -corners etc - the veneer bonds on with perfection - -the labour required to make a perfect MDF veneered cab takes less man hours to produce versus the plywood veneered version - - humidity on the other hand can play havoc with MDF as it deforms it - plywood cabinets will always have the advantage of being made from several plys instead of fibreboard -

these speakers will be gone in a heartbeat - simply building birch cabinets alone can cost a bundle - then adding 2 woofers -2 mids and horns - 2 tweeters -2 crossovers - yep not cheap at all -

- indeed the Atlas sound PD-5VH Klipsch outsourced midrange driver - and the Phillipines made K77 F tweeter for the Lascala II - both diaphragms are constructed of cloth-based phenolic - my error - my mind was wondering at the same time with a cornwall III upgrade that I was doing -

Since you are having a fan issue -dont forget to look for the direction of the airflow to find the correct unit - the airflow direction is usually indicated on the fan itself - -until you get the replacement - first takeout your fan - remove the paper gasket over the bearing and lubricate the bearing with oil - sewing machine oil or even better synthetic oil used for power tools - - if the fan quiets down - great - that means that the fan was on the way out - -I would call Behringer to see if they have a 24 volts replacement or if your part is under warranty - noisy fans means a worn out bearing section or motor assembly - maybe they were having some quality issues with their OEM supplier -getting a factory replacement that was tested is important - Digikey - NMB - are OEM manufacturers - - I have a lot of good luck with BGW replacement amplifier fans , as long as the airflow is the same - BGW X2500 amplifier fans units are front to rear airflow to cool heatsinks - the bonus is that they last for ever as they are truly very well designed -- take care