Skelt

The asian bird flu will destroy the poultry market is the USA if it ever gets over here. My kids like those chicken nuggets but i dont want them. I have been butchering tame rabbits for my chicken needs. They are much cleaner to process than chickens.

Is there a difference between these two passives? Both are 12 in. and look like they have the same surrounds. Are the diameters close enough for them to be interchangeable? The KD-12 is used on the KG4 and the KD-13 on the first generation forte. The spec sheets lists 38hz for the kg and 32hz on the forte. Would kd-13 be weighted more to play lower? I am converting tangent 400s into forte 1s and the passive is the last change. The t400 goes down to 38hz that would seem to suggest the kd-12 might be the choice. But I already put k23 woofs in so maybe I should use kd-13s. The tangent cab has a slightly larger volume and is deeper and taller than the forte but not as wide. I always thought the tangents imaged better than my fortes but the fortes sound better in the bottom end.

How about a KP36A schematic for the KP301 II?

How did you measure their values? I was under the impression that the magnet wire allows less wire to be used because the windings are closer making a stronger field.

Can I jump back to my second to last show? It was the Monkeys in St. Louis. mid 90s. the Turtles opened.

The Doors. Ray Manzarek and Bobby Krieger only. sorry I'm not that old.

Quakana, I really believe your Sony just does not have the gusto to handle the RF-7II's low impedence dips. It looks like the protection circuitry is very sensitive and easily senses a load the Sony just does not like. I had a wonderful 80's Denon POA-1500 2-channel amp that was rated conservatively at 150w/ch into 8 ohms that would drive my fortes all day long at ear bleeding levels. But when I hooked my RF-63's up to the Denon and twisted the volume knob a bit on the preamp, after about 5 minutes the Denon's protection circuitry kicked in and never came out. Off to the repair shop the Denon went and when I got it back, it stayed far away from the RF-63's. I later learned that even though the Denon POA-1500 was a well regarded amplifier, it was never built to handle sustained(high volume) sub 8ohm loads. Bill I must set my Harman Kardon ss citation to 4 ohm when playing thru fortes. they have 4 ohm woofers and will make my amps run hot if set to 8 ohm.

I did this mod in January or February and the clay has been holding just fine. It is a Crayola brand clay. I have had the driver out several times trying different mods and I see no sign separation. The clay claims to be non-drying so I am thinking it will hold. I don't have any estimates on how much clay to damp those larger horns. I just kept adding clay until it was nearly level with the stiffening runners that are molded into the horn body. Of course I stayed away from the mounting flange as not to interfere with mounting. The forte horns mount from the front of the baffle. I also stayed about an 2 inches from the driver so I could change diaphragms later.

When I first started investigating horn damping that a suggestion was to wrap the horn with electrical tape to see if it was something worth while. This seemed easy enough and reversible. so I tried it on some Fortes with the resin horn. I wrapped about 4 layers of tape on the midhorn. There was a difference in the sound. I believe it reduced what is referred to as honkiness. The midrange seemed slightly quieter but the added clarity was a benefit IMO. I have since removed the tape and applied 1 pound of nondrying modeling clay to each midhorn. The clay can be removed to restore the horn to original where as dynamat or other products would be most likely impossible to remove. when I tap on an installed horn with the damping it sounds deader than an undamped horn. I understand that a bell sitting(or bolted) on a table rings less than a suspended bell. But if you put your hand on the bell it will ring less whether it is mounted tightly or suspended.

I might add that I have heard that the forte's with the round input terminal cup(4 ohm) sounds smother because the crossover is point to point wiring. The 8 ohm rectangular cup has the crossover built on a printed circuit. But now I think the different baffle material would cause more acoustical differences than how the crossover was wired.

The cabinet with the 8 ohm label has full length corner braces top to bottom. the other has only a small one's in the middle. I think the 8 ohm cab has a mdf front baffle the 4 ohm cab's baffle is plywood. also the bolt circle patterns that holds the woofer and PR in place are drilled starting at the 12:00 position in 8 ohm cab.on the 4 ohm cab the PR drilling starts at 22.5 degrees from top center. The when i bought them new all those years ago I only cared that they were loud. Sounded pretty good too. Ended up blowing a woofer before leaving Germany. when i got the warranty work done the audio shop told me that they sounded different and it was odd that i got speakers made so far apart. as for the sound being different it is hard to put my finger on it. I think they both sound good in their own way. I cant make up my mind on which one I like the best. Right now they are waiting for upgrade crossovers and soon I will add bracing and perhaps other mods too. first I am trying the mods out on some Tangent 400's. The 400's image better than the forte's IMO. I loaded those cabs with all forte components so they are pretty much a ported forte. The tangent cab is larger by a little so maybe I can get a little more bass from them as compared to the forte or maybe not. A passive radiator might tune lower than ports.

Some earlier Forte 1's came with round input terminals were labeled 4 ohm later ones had rectangular cups and read 8 ohm. I have one of each. They are constructed slightly different and sound different too. The k23 woofer is a 4 ohm driver. 3.6 ohm dcr. I must use my HK citation 24 on 4 ohm. It will run hot if is set for 8 ohm.

I have a pair of Tangent-400's that I have modified in the following ways. I know your question is specific to the Heritage models but I also have Forte 1's that I plan similar mods when time allows. The horns are stock but I damped the outside with modeling clay. The tweeter was changed from the k74 to a k75(forte tweeter) and added titanium diaphragms. The mid-drivers (k53) were upgraded with titanium. The woofers(k24 6 ohm dcr) were changed to a k23 also from a Forte. I built the crossover with all new parts following the stock schematic for the Forte 1. Solen 400v fast caps, 10 ga air core inductors for the woofer and 14 ga in the tweeter circuit. I purchased autotransformers from Germany. They are quite a bit bigger than stock. The level of attenuation is 9.33 db. It is connected to the midrange only. The stock transformer T2A has 9.5 db atten. with tap #2 I added bracing to the cabinets,stuffed the upper portion with fiberglass and put them of 7" risers with spikes. Currently I am experimenting with different port configurations. I could here differences with each change and believe all were beneficial.

just talked with klipsch today. the kit comes with woofers,mid range driver,tweeter and xo all for $290 ea + shipping. all you need is a cabinet with rectangular input cup. it would fit heresy 2 , tangent 400/500 or even some forte 1's for that matter, but the wires might not be long enough. since I have been changing port sizes it seem to be shorter length ports are louder and punchier. longer are somewhat deeper but not as loud.

I'm sorry, I couldn't get these pictures to upload, so you can use these links to see them. For some reason, it will not work in Internet explorer, but if you have Google Chrome on your computer, it works. I don't know about Firefox or any other browsers, though. file:///G:/DCIM/100DSCIM/PICT0016.JPG.......... file:///G:/DCIM/100DSCIM/PICT0017.JPG............file:///G:/DCIM/100DSCIM/PICT0019.JPG

over the weekend I was looking at some flared ports but the sizes would require cabinet modification. a car audio guy suggested that I could heat pvc tubing with a deep fryer and stretch it over a pattern to make a bell mouth. then machine it to refine the shape and meet needed dimentions. having a small lathe I went to work right away. I used 3 in schedule 80 tubing because it has a .300 in wall thickness. Had to look in electrical dept. at the hardware store for this size is used for conduit. wound up with 4-3/8 flange diameter and 10 over all length, flared flanges on both ends. made in 3 pcs so i can adjust lengths. this will take some back and forth to find the right length. keep in mind that this t-400 cab is loaded with forte componets . First impressions........ bass is deeper, stronger and clearer. comparing it to a forte with the same upgraded xo I would say the bass is tighter. my daughter says it is deeper than the forte. Everybody tells me the tangents sound better than the fortes even though they have the same drivers and xo's.

That's a room problem, not a speaker problem. Moving the speakers around won't fix it. Look into getting bass traps for your corners. That's a room problem, not a speaker problem. Moving the speakers around won't fix it. Look into getting bass traps for your corners. Ok made bass traps bought new drapes for the big window big help with the reverb, but the question still stands. If a Heresey lll conversion kit was put in a Tangent 400 cabinet would the ports still be correct for this woofer/cab combination?

I have had the drivers out lately, the clay is holding in place and is still sticky. I'm sure there is better products for this application. The clay works for me mostly because my wife could pick it up with out having to search too hard.

I used a nondrying modeling clay to dampen the horns in some Forte I's and Tangent 400's about one pound per speaker. I thought it was an improvement reduced listing fatigue and increased clarity. This was something my wife could pick up from a discount department store because I dislike shopping. About $30 for all 4 speakers. i don't know how hard it would be to remove.

I would buy them separately if needed. I should have stated that I have put k-23's in place along with forte crossovers. I also changed the tweeter to a k75 and installed Crites diaphragms. so basically it is a T-400 cab with forte electrics. I believe the bass is stronger. perhaps some what deeper. These woofers seem at least to me to move a lot of air though the ports. Sometimes i can feel the air gush 4 or 5 feet away. I'm just not sure if the port size matches the cab/woofer combination any more or if it can be tuned lower. Maybe I need to go with k-28's, or the problem could be the room. I get reverberation at loud levels on some songs and it is not even around the room. I have experimented with various amounts of toe-in, long wall, short wall with only moderate success.

If the kit is OK for the Heresy's, it it suitable for the Tangent 400/500's? I am the original owner of a pair of T-400's and even with all of the negative publicity, I have a desire to keep them going. My biggest question is that if I were to replace the K-24 woofer with a new K-28... would the ports still be the correct size? The ports are 2.75" Dia. X 5" overall length now. The specs sheet says the low end frequency response is 38 Hz. The Forte has a very similar size cabinet. It is also a bass reflex design, but via a passive radiator and it goes down to 32 Hz. The K- 28 woofer is a correct replacement for the Forte's K-23. So either of those woofers should work in either a ported or a sealed or ported cabinet, right? Can this T-400 cabinet be tuned down to 32 Hz or lower by changing the ports? I really don't know much about speaker building, so any help would be very appreciated.