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ive seen the mod for extending ports on the chorus, anyone ever do this to PRO models like the 301ii? what should the length be? looking at the 301 & 301ii specs, the 301 goes a lot lower than the 301ii on paper, i think the original 301s show 36hz but the 301ii show 45hz like the chorus. why would klipsch raise the bass freq on the 2s & what makes up for the difference since both models use the same woofer & cabinet dimensions look pretty close.

you have to remove any of the old glue before applying any new adhesive, if it looks anything like the pic i posted of the tangents it can be applied pretty heavy. & consider gorilla glue to reinforce the seams, doesnt need a caulk gun & will get into any crevices, gaps or voids much better than a PL or glue will. but either one will work, GG is cheaper too & can be used for other things. one $5 bottle will do at least 2 pairs of large speakers & have some left over.

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some? which ones? the professional models you show? are professional or KLF considered "low end speakers"?? your previous post implied the KLF & KG we are discussing here with loose boards werent made in hope because the factory wasnt "geared for pressed wood" just curious where you got that info from regarding KLF/KG & loose boards.

why wasnt the klipsch hope factory geared for pressed wood?? where did you hear models of this era like KG, KLF, EPIC etc werent made in hope? klipsch used the same "pressed wood" for many different models after they stopped using plywood. fortes, quartets, chorus, epic, etc etc used pressed MDF & as far as i know they were all made made at the hope factory. it was the bad glue they used for a short time that caused the cabinet issues, for melamine or raw wood.

sounds like he has the actual spikes that he called "spindles that screw in" but hes missing the plastic covers that go over the metal spikes? klipsch used these style spikes with the plastic covers on many models, these are for KG that just pushed into bare holes in the speakers- https://www.ebay.com/itm/193459344922?hash=item2d0b13561a:g:tu8AAOSwDtdeuEFY but later models like KLF & i think the epics used a similar looking metal spike but with very coarse threads into the raw wood of the cabinet, as opposed to the much smaller standard 1/4" threaded feet that have metal threaded inserts in the wood like modern subs & other brands of speakers shown in the amazon link above. but both types of these klipsch spikes used the same plastic covers shown in my link. i see them for sale quite often on ebay so should be able to find them without too much trouble.

i have read/heard it was the glue itself, whether designed for melamine or what they used on raw wood. when i had a pair of KG5.5 repaired by klipsch in the late 90's i was told by my local klipsch dealer manager i was friends with that handled my out of warranty claim that klipsch told them it was defective glue, he said they had lots of problems with these models of KLF & KG & ive even heard of it on some of the EPICS. my KGs had the glue literally gobbed on so heavily it was running down the seams & pooling at the bottom... ive owned 4 other sets of big KGs & they all had heavy glue visible from the inside covering all seams, i doubt it was an "insufficient amount" of glue. quality issues with assembly probably had a big role in it too but the glue amount was more than sufficient. heres a pic of the glue used inside some tangent 400 i have here that were made during this same era... notice how heavy its applied, looked exactly the same if not more in all the KGs ive owned, yet more than one pair had loose boards & no melamine.

i dont have any input on the 2 amp choices, but if damping factor is a concern for you, those numbers are very low. even mid-fi AVR receivers have at least 100df. & mid-fi separate amps have a lot more, i run adcom on my 2ch system & the gfa555ii has like 800df & i have a rotel 990bx that has 1000df. both amps sound excellent on many larger klipsch speakers including the cf4 & other large brands i own/owned. while they arent macs, both amps sound as good or better in many ways that other much more expensive amps i have heard.

i posted some replies to your questions in the other thread... the issue with loose boards is not related to melamine, its the defective glue they used in KLF & KG models of this era. the larger KG 4.5 & 5.5 didnt use melamine & still had the problems indicating it is glue related. if yours dont have any noticeable issues then its likely yours dont have the bad glue. but again, its not the melamine its the defective glue that was used for a short time. as far as i know there is no known or confirmed dates/versions, since KLF didnt really have "versions" like some other models did. yes yours are raw MDF or veneer & the outer veneer type didnt dictate if melamine was used. best thing you can do is keep an eye/ear out for any signs of loose boards, maube pull a woofer or mid & feel the glue inside, if its hard & brittle & breaks off easily it "could" pose a problem down the road, if its still solid & intact it should be fine & not worth losing sleep over.

sounds like some KLFs used melamine & some didnt, but the melamine is not the cause of the loose boards, its the glue. KG4.5 & 5.5 had the loose board issues too & they did not use melamine, or at least none of the 4 or 5 pairs ive owned had it & i cant say ive ever heard of or seen it used in that era of KG's. as moray james expained in that link, it was defective glue that caused the issues. in that thread one guy said he used PL premium to fix his loose boards with melamine, that is the contruction adhesive i mentioned & it will adhere to melamine from everything ive heard, but gorilla glue is even better because it expands somewhat & will get into gaps or voids better than a normal glue or adhesive will. do some testing i explained earlier & if you dont hear a vibration on bass beats or can see the front/rear boards move when pushing on them from inside chances are they are good & dont have the issue.

YW. no glue on the outside seams, its done from the inside so is not visible, you want to preserve the outside of these cabinets the best you can, the wood finish is a big part of the value. the glue klipsch used was defective for a while & would harden & loose its grip. scrape as much old glue as you can & scuff up about 1" on both sides of the seams on the loose board(s). then follow directions on the back of the gorilla glue bottle which has you lightly moisten the area with water then apply a 1/4" bead of glue, it will expand & force its way into any voids or loose areas then dries almost as hard as a rock. just need to be sure you get rid of as much of the old glue & have a nice clean surface. other construction adhesives will work too. if you remove the panels a good wood glue or other stronger adhesive is all thats needed. i dont think melamine was used in the KLF but i could be wrong on that, i know its not used in the KG or other models that were made in the same era as KLF. i have seen some black over spray inside ported cabinets, not sure if this was done on purpose so you dont see bare wood inside. maybe some other members that own KLFs can confirm if they used melamine. yes your pic is showing raw wood & the yellow original hot glue they used. if yours dont vibrate or you can't see slight movement when pushing from the inside then they are probably good. but again, leave the outsides of the cabinets alone, no screws or glue.

i would not use screws to fix the loose boards if thats an issue, yes the grilles will hide them but screws will hurt their value if/when you want to sell them. the best way to repair loose baffles is by removing them & re glue them. or the other option is to use a good glue that will hold the panels without removing them, i have done this a few times on loose klipsch KG speakers & subs as well as other brands... i use gorilla glue with excellent results, it is incredibly strong & will bond the panels together as good or better than the factory, works great on melamine too but there is a glue specifically made for melamine. thats great the boards seem to be in good shape on your speakers, try some bass heavy music up loud, its not upper freq at high volume that will show the problem, its lower bass at high volumes that will expose the vibration of loose cabinets.

nice set up! are the leaves of those plants covering the horns acoustically transparent??

be sure to audition the KLFs with some bass heavy music as loud as the seller will let you play them... KLF & KG are known to have loose cabinet issues & that will effect the value of the speaker.

sorry if the part # was wrong, i confused daves post about K76 tweeter prices. ........they all use the same plastic horn lens which was related to the SMAHL lens he was asking about.

in or as near to the corners as possible for best bass. maybe 8-10" off the rear wall & at least a foot or 2 from the side walls. these speakers are front ported so no need to pull out any further from the rear wall, but each room is different so you need to play with placement & decide what you like best for your system in your room. adding a good sub will definitely help the lower bass for almost any speaker but epic 3 & 4 go pretty low as is, into the mid 30hz so a sub is not really "needed" but will help if adjusted & placed properly.

yes, K76 are the original tweeters in your chorus.

just to clarify the aluminum tweeter thing, the aluminum is the horn casting itself that the member here sells & then uses a different diaphragm. the titaniums use the original plastic horn housing but replaces the original diaphragm with titanium. the alum horns are very nice from the reviews ive read but they are very expensive so all comes down to budget. the titanium diaphragms are a different sound signature than the stock ones, its not equivalent to just turning up the treble knob... they have a crisper sound or as mentioned more "sparkle" & are smoother over their freq range than the originals from my experience with them & what many others that have them describe.

yes we really need pics to see what is happening. as i mentioned earlier, i dont think there is enough fluid in the small electrolytic caps or the tweeters to actually leak through the cabinets & drip out. please post pics. edit: also to note, the ferro fluid in the tweeters is a very dark brown color, not green. same for most electrolytic capacitors ive seen that leaked, it was a dark brown color. hopefully we can get some pics to see what this mysterious green fluid thats dripping out is. or even better, pull the complete speaker wire terminal with the crossover attached so we can get a closer look at the capacitors. also important, is that if it is leaking caps, guaranteed they are no longer within the intended specification & should be replaced ASAP.

looking at this pic, can anyone confirm that is a stock resistor? i though klipsch used the white cast resistors on these crossovers, my chorus 2 are the white cast. the crossover should come out from the backside, you said you cant get it out, but it should come out the back side of the cabinet as designed, they are a tight fit so might need to lift up (based on the pic) then swing the bottom part out & down, do this from the back after removing the 6 screws from the plastic speaker wire terminal. trying to remove it from the woofer hole will require unscrewing the boards from the terminal plate & the big metal autoformer, that is not how they are designed to come out. try to manipulate the whole terminal from the back side some more to get it out that way. anyone else own chorus & able to help him with removal of the crossover & speaker terminal as one piece? every klipsch speaker of this era i have owned the complete unit comes out as one piece.

works for me now too, earlier it said item was expired or older than 90 days.

key words of this thread= "matched" & "forte4"... academy, quartet, belle, etc are not matched to the forte 4. will they "work" & produce sound? yes. will it be a timbre matched sound? no. i agree that any decent center will work & they dont all have to be perfectly matched but for modern forte4 speakers there isnt any true center channel offered by klipsch to match so need to use a single forte4 or heresy4 for a good timbre match. or as mentioned, try the "phantom" setting on the AVR that will send all center info to the L&R mains. ive used phantom before i had a decent center to match the mains i had at the time & it worked very well. i also agree that klipsch is doing a disservice by not making a heritage center for customers that have the new heritage speakers in a home theater set up. same for a heritage looking sub.. or a practical horn sub.

using material on the horns is debatable by many if it helps any, so its your choice to try that. personally i dont think it will fix the issue you are describing since it only dampens the horn from resonance or ringing which the plastic horns in these speakers dont really do like the larger metal horns of the bigger models can. but by all means give it a try. you apply the material only to the back side of the horn, you can use the killmat or dynamat stuff or just use rope caulk used for insulating gaps in windows etc, very cheap at any home store & is removable if you dont like it. for the tweeters, most people use the crites titanium diaphragms, ordering parts from klipsch will take a month or more to get a reply via email & if you call you will wait on hold for 15-20+ minutes. crites will reply to emails the same day or answer the phone on the 3rd or 4th ring & ship them out the next day for the same price as klipsch. i doubt most people will hear a difference between the crites & klipsch titanium diaphragms. majority of people like the titanium tweeters over the stock ones & they are not harsh unless you have very sensative hearing but sounds like you prefer a cripser high freq sound, i use the crites TI tweeters in my chorus 2 & really like their sound compared to the stock ones. very easy to replace & if you dont like them you can change back to the originals & sell the titanium ones for close to what you paid.

link is expired.