Dave A

The beauty of Duratex is durable, most any color you want, roller applied or sprayed if you wish and no fumes. I am going to try spraying this one day as I am interested in what the finish would be like.

If I were to decide to do this I would go back to the original idea close to the beginning of this thread and use a Rockler Finger joiner router bit and add little triangles to the parallel sections. Claude says this would not make a worthwhile difference and so I elected to not complicate things further. Sometime in the next couple of weeks I hope to get to measuring and final dial in with the Xilica of this system. I have them sounding much better but know they are not there. However I have spent enough time on these for a while and need to do other things for now.

Sorry for the confusion but here is what I should have quoted. It should have been a KPT-942 Based on the proven KPT-904-LF dual 15” bass unit, the KPT-942 delivers powerful bass from a cabinet just 24” deep. For high output combined with excellent coverage, the system uses a KPT-402-HF Tractrix® horn with K-1132 2” exit titanium compression driver to reproduce mid and high frequencies Dog gonnit this time maybe I have it right. Copy and paste is not your friend if you stick it there and don't check to see it is right.

Tiny Tim?

The KPT-904 bass bin or earlier variant is way better than a La Scala and the foot print is not a lot more. If a wife determines what appears over sound quality you won't get any peace over that 402 either. If however she can live with the 402 the 904 bass bin is an admirable choice and FAR smaller than the S-MWM. The S-MWM is huge and I don't expect to see many if any ever built besides mine for that reason. 402 + 904 = jaw dropping sound.

I wasn't sure what to make of it. Funny thing about those old growth forests out west. Huge towering trees you wont believe until you see them in person. And no wildlife to speak of under them. I am used to the forest here being abundant in things to eat and critters to eat it all and it is hardly ever completely quiet. "but the soil doesn't have as permanent location as what you're accustomed to" Earthquakes?

You know that's what xilicas and PEQ's and room EQ is for right? On the other hand the plans are here in this thread and you can find out by building a set without parallel sides and report back. I trust Claude's numbers enough to build by them and this was a fair amount of time and money and I am very pleased with the results. Speaking of huffing I cleared out years worth of trees growing behind the house yesterday and today. I am here to admit in public I was huffing. And puffing too at times. Maybe I will move to Seattle or San Fran.

A little fan blowing out on the other side would have spared you that problem. Duratex not so bad.

Mexican food today so truer than you know.

Take a rubber mallet and beat the sides off, clean your wood up and put new 25mm Baltic Birch sides on there. You would not believe how much better they will sound and since there is so much damage why not do this? I had 4 LSI's in terrible shape and I saved the components and the doghouse from each and made splits from them.

I can handle it and easier than moving things around to get a fork lift under them again.

Well final painting today heh heh. I like to get into my work.

I have no idea. I used this for purely 2 channel stereo. Personally I like the room EQ in my DBX better than Audessey. I am pretty sure once I learn how to use REW and the Xilica I will be selling aall the DBX gear too except for one I will use for quick and easy demos on speakers.

I always welcome any Klipsch forum members to stop by if they are in the area and I am not swamped with work.

It is and it will work well for someones home theater or stereo. I have grown to like pro gear though and this will be my last dalliance with anything other than pro for amps.

Thanks and yes it is. Everything was pro black and while I don't mind that it shows dirt real well. I had a brown truck that did a good job of being dirty and not showing it so I decided to see about doing it too speakers also. Did it to a set of KG4's that had a bondo spot under the paint and it turned out nice. Decided then any I build will be this color and got the WAF seal of approval yesterday. She came out to the shop and unprompted said I like those. A Sherwin Williams dealer nearby that has some fabricator customers did not bat an eye about adding tint to paint they did not sell. Homeowner type paint suppliers probably will so seek a paint dealer that caters to pro customers and you are good to go. WAF however does not apply to 402's and S-MWM's which get a sniff and a comment "men and their toys" or "men never grow up" depending on the day. Also depends on what music I let here hear for the day to. Duratex does more than one thing I figure. Besides a durable finish I believe it will help seal all plenums and cabinets better if there are gaps you missed and as tough as it is perhaps it will bleed into cracks and also act as glue too. In beating apart cabinets it is a bit surprising to see the number of somewhat questionable appearing glue joints there can be. You don't really know this until you beat a few apart and see the evidence there in front of you.

Added the spec sheet today. Finding out these are not worth what I thought and so $400 includes shipping. This is a pristine unit with very little use. Integra is in fine shape and was bought refurb online. I have probably used this for a hundred hours or so before migrating to all pro amps. One of the reasons I got this was because of Audessey which I ended up not liking much. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/597506/Integra-Dtr-50-4.html takes you to the manual for this and it does quite a lot and has ample power for most things Klipsch. I have original box and shipping material. Has the mike and remote and yes it all works. $400 includes shipping to lower 84.

I had forgotten that 57 1/8" stuff.

OK put a big dip in the line between speakers and amp. Make sure each end is precisely the same height and the electrons will puddle there and not drain off when you shut down. Makes the whole session next day better as these electrons have had a tranquil time of peace and quiet and are now ready to go. I have a question for bi-amped systems. Should I get organic non-magnetic field reducing towers and run both sets of leads together on one set of towers or split the two sets into individual tower runs? On the runs should I twist the pairs or leave them in straight flat symetrical order from end to end? If I do it in sets how much distance do I maintain between sets and do they have to be precisely parallel? It's not just the cable after all it is how you run it from device to device.

Some time ago I bought four LSI's that had toured with the Oak Ridge Boys. Really beat up and i decided with all the cabinet damage to just kind of start over. I beat all the wood off the doghouses and went back and built separate bass bins and top hats. The bass bin has 25mm Baltic Birch sides and18mm elsewhere. The top hat has one of my larger MAHL tweeters with the DE10 driver and a 25mm motorboard with the traditional K-400 and some K-55-M's which were with the original LSI's. Trimmed the mid opening to be a better fit for the horn mouth to stop that ledge there. Reused the K-43 woofers which I happen to like over the K-33's Rebuilt some Type E crossovers to AA's minus the zener diodes since the DE10 does not need that protection. These have none of the resonance problems the 18mm sides do. Imagine all the punch of the LSI bass bin with no resonance and I swear deeper bass to boot. Needs room EQ though to sound it's best but that is true with many speakers. I like these more than the LSI one piece fiberglass I once had which were the best sounding ones until now that I have owned. I have two more sets of these one set a two piece and one set a single piece and I will more than likely change the sides out to 1" baltic on these too. Makes a huge difference.

That was an attempt at humor. But sure and to add to it I am starting a collection of brown speakers.

Add to that how do you get that darned plastic trash bag open. Also which way is the twist tie twisted.

While I doubt more than a couple of people will ever build these I thought I would discuss cost to do so. A track saw will work so if you don't have one figure about $850 Festool with 96" track. $600 appx wood. $82 one gallon duratex. Air nailer if you don't have one $185.00. I used two John Allen single MWM bin woofers but a K-43 will work just fine or a K-33. Figure another $250+ on this. I had some 1132 drivers on hand from past buys and was given a real deal on a set of 402 horns. Knowing what I know now if I could not find a used set of 402's with drivers I would buy this new from Klipsch. They are worth it for the sound they produce and finding these used requires real diligence and a degree of luck. Two Crown xli's $450.00 Slightly used Xilica xp3060 $700.00. Your time and some buddies to help you if you don't have a forklift. I had those 1132 drivers on hand but they came with a buy that was an 1800 mile round trip so there was an expense I don't care to try to figure it out. The woofers came from a trip to St Louis so while I paid $50 each they cost more. The 402 horns were dirt cheap but a 500 mile round trip to get. I place no value on my time to design and build. I figure it was around maybe $3,500 cost to build not counting trip costs which were often combined with other things I was buying. You decide to just do it with new parts and I think $6g would more than cover it and get it all delivered with no trips. At the very least the lesson learned here is no matter what I end up with in the future it will have a 402 on top of it. Horns rule and there is no substitute that will equal them.

That's right.

Specs on synergy are as follows. BS specs 45% adjustable up or down. Gullible people or those who like to brag 35% again a sliding scale. 10% look cool and the remainder is finding people who will be impressed with your silliness as much as you are. End result is $5,000 cables and owner who wants you to know he spent that. Capable of pure pristine tonal quality contributions to the well rounded system and Diana Krall never sounded so effortlessly sterile before. Far superior to Klipsch for instance and zip cord which after all are only capable of sounding like you were there in a live performance.