Dave A

Well the last pair from all those from Tim's is sitting right here in my shop but you have to be quick. Three of the four sets are gone and the last one won't be here long. I wish I had twenty sets of these things as they are the easiest selling speakers I have ever handled. Seven sets in all gone and the eighth soon to follow and no quibbles about prices. These speakers are a different animal. You listen to the horns by themselves and think meh. You listen to the bass bins and the same thing. You get all the stuff hooked up and set in a good position and it is a different world. Make sure your music files are good ones because if they are not you have no idea how good these will sound. Audacity is your friend and you need to learn to use it. I make a point of showing people the before and after results with Audacity when they come to buy. I used to hear "well they sounded better at your place than they do here" until I showed people exactly how I got to the sound they heard here. A simple free program and it makes such a difference.

Well you made many defensive claims that the best speakers are made of this by the best companies who choose to use it so just what should my interpretation of that line of though be hmmm? It is the pretentious side of your commentary that invites response at times. Why did you stop with your MDF days count? I rather enjoyed that.

Ready to cash them in for some Cornwalls yet?

Is that why everyone else is wrong all the time?

We will use your set for a test bed and see how it does.

Also tactile appeal of the Knobs must be there. MDF is the very best speaker cabinet material. OP is right you are wrong.

I am not in a super hurry to finish and can wait. I want them done at least a month before the pilgrimage so I have time to dial them in right but other than that as long as forward progress is happening I am happy. Others however are welcome to come help if I am not fast enough😀

Everything but the motorboards and front side pieces. I have some metal to cut for a few days so the mill is not available for wood to cut the motorboards right now. Also have to get my forklift back from being repaired. The engine head is off and being machined from a gasket leak so I hope one day next week it might be fixed. I am going to need it to lift it off the table. I will be able to assemble it all from one side though so once I can get the motorboards cut it will be time to move on. I also have to get one more sheet of 25mm Baltic. Sad to say I fall just short of having wood for the four front side pieces. I figured there would be enough with six sheets but no. All in all these will consume roughly 6 sheets of 25mm and two sheets of 18mm. In retrospect these 25mm sheets are overkill but I am making these to be my end all be all so I don't care. If I were doing it again they would be from 18mm. Calculated weight with speakers is right at 338 pounds per. I have no problem tilting these or lifting one end up by hand to put on a dolly but getting them off a table 38" high? No way. It will go fast once my forklift is back. By the way. The track saw is sure the way to go. More than accurate enough for this kind of work and beats the heck out of muscling big sheets of plywood around on the table saw. Thanks for the track saw tips guys. That jig looks interesting but for this project I am going to use 1" x 1" corner pieces and screw and glue.

Agreed. I had a look at those thin wire like nails used by many and unless you had a ton of clamps to go with them don't see how they would hold anywhere what a screw would do while glue sets up.

Well I have lots of wood screws and a gallon of glue. The top will be screwed on from the inside and the bottom will be screwed on from the outside. When flipped over I doubt they will ever be seen under the Duratex I am going to use.

I have qualified efficiency teachers who have taught me all I know when they get around to it.

I am a fan of making things work in as many ways as possible with one device. What I am thinking here is not driven by this though as much as it is to have the shortest length that would also be stable. I have not done the CAD work yet but my guess is with the larger MAHL and DE10 I could get away with a 5" length from front face to back of support. The smaller MAHL with the DE120 could be less but I don't want these things to short so there might be some variations before I settle on final designs. I prefer the DE10 over all the other drivers Claude has tested so far both by the numbers and what I hear in my shop with test bed speakers. It will have to use a longer base for sure.

Are those stable enough to make you happy for the long term or is this temporary? Part of my thinking for a base is to be stable enough to resist accidental knocks and cats. Nothing is proof against toppling but I don't want it to be super easy to do either.

They are rare and don't back off. The bargain hunters will be mad but I think someone will accept your valuation and buy. I would really take my time with these and not let anyone steamroll you into a quick sale. Great buy and you deserve the full reward for making it happen.

Depends on which driver. The DE120 yes but with the stand the door is opened for the DE10 which is a superior sounding driver but it is far larger in size and weight. Also cheaper. I have to make time to do the design work and see what the situation really is and how small this can safely be made. I lean towards the wood base too it just takes longer to do.

Yoo-Hoo, Hi Claude. #2 checking in with #1

What he paid was a valid price for that transaction only. I wish I could be lucky enough to buy something that rare for that price. I am puzzled by this response. So you gave advice on these and so did others isn't that something done here every day with no expectation of compensation? So if I give someone advice here on something they got cheap I am somehow entitled to get it at 1/3 the real value? Just because? What is the real value of these is a question no one has answered yet with established market prices achieved except for this one price he paid. What are they worth? He is going to find out. I will pay you $570 for yours if they are in as nice a condition as his just let me know when I can get them.

OK I agree but what is the market for something that shows up so rarely there is no established price? I bought an old Heresy type speaker in Nashville some time ago. I open it up and there are old K-42 woofers in there with great big Klipsch logos and unlike any I have personally seen before. Soldered lug K-55-V drivers and old K-77's. I have no idea what to make of it and I can't find an exact Klipsch spec sheet for this. I spent $375.00 on it. I have not listed this for sale and may never do so but one thing is for sure. IF I ever do what I paid for it will have no bearing on what I sell it for because I don't have to share my time and effort locating these things. No one who wants to beat me down on prices is willing to subsidize the times I lose or the long trips so pay or go away is what I say when I am selling used speakers. I go through things pretty fast so my prices for what people get must be fair. How this guy acquired this speaker is not relevant nor is what he paid for it. I give people deals at times for various reasons but that does not happen when negotiation starts off with "are you crazy" or "I can buy six of those for what you are asking". So how many of these has anyone here seen before and what are the selling prices?

While I would not pay this two thoughts come to mind here. The Audio world is FULL of prices I would never pay. I mean $4,000 for a retarded cable??? Please spare me. This appears to be a genuine collectable antique and is worth far more than just a Heresy. How much more I don't know but can we agree these are pretty hard to find? I don't remember seeing one this old here before. If I were the seller I would hold to $2,800 and just find out what it is worth and ignore all the detractors. I don't see the guys selling early Altec drivers getting beat up over their huge number prices. For what it is worth I think he is asking a fair price to start with and let the market decide if it is right.

So That's what all those little holes on the back side mean?

Getting ready to ask a few questions here and I re-read my last comment. No you can't flip the base and I don't know what I was thinking when I said you could. That driver is heavy enough that if you just flipped the support board from back to front you are going to have to put a counter weight on it to compensate. Now my question for you all is would a sheet metal base to the vertical tweeter board offend anyone? Should I just plan on it being wood also?

The trim won't do much at all except protect corners and look cool. The fiberglass was the big dampener on my LSI's I am certain.

There was a kit at one time for those braces and it would be what I would do too even if I had to make them myself. If I ever own another set of La Scalas they will be ones I build out of 1" Baltic Birch. My experience has been they will resonate at higher volumes and everyone I know who has these will play them that loud on occasion. Best set I ever had was one piece LSI with Al edge trim and fiberglass. They did not resonate even when played loud enough to physically thump your body 12 feet away.

Whats with you asking this all the time?

The pieces to the puzzle I have so far are a Xilica xp3060 and two Crown xli800 amps. The intent is to use a laptop or PC as the source, feed the preamp which will feed the two Crowns. Does that make me analog or digital? I am assuming I am digital at this time and the sound card will allow for up to 192kbs. I have an Integra 50.4 which I can use to and should I just go that route? It can't be rack mount and is big though. Convenience is secondary to fidelity here though and I don't want to have to do this over.