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Dave A

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Everything posted by Dave A

  1. Those questions are way beyond my pay grade. Claude or Chris A could tell you about what you propose to do I think.
  2. Next up we have the reworked small MAHL and since Claude got my only pair I have just the renderings from the CAD program but you will get the idea. The clamp plates here allow for the following. 5mm hole on 3" or 76.2MM centers for drivers like the Faital HF 100 and 102 and the B&C DE10 5mm hole on 2.008" or 51mm centers for drivers like the B&C DE110 5mm hole on 2.252" or 57.2mm hole centers for drivers like the B&C DE120 As in the larger MAHL the 1 3/8" 18tpi threaded clamp plates are being discontinued for lack of interest. I am pretty excited about both these designs and sad to say Claude has heard them before I did and when I get done with this pile-o-stuff I am in the middle of the first order of business will be to find something to stick these into. Now Claude came up with the word fabulous and I expect he was grinning while he did so but everything he has told me says these are a solid improvement.
  3. Well I have been buried in family stuff and work and did not expect to see this thread but since it is here I guess I need to make information available. Keep in mind these will not be out for a few weeks yet but here is the story. I was told by someone whom I have tremendous respect for that if I eliminated the straight cylinder wall the clamp plates represented the sound would improve. THANK YOU mystery adviser for your great advice! So out comes the trusty seat of Solid Edge and off to modeling I go and then cut time. Claude got the first two small MAHL V2 and two of the first large MAHL V2 tweeters to test. The other set is going into a set of three ways I am going to build soon. The new setup has an overall depth that is the same as the old one minus the 1/2" thick clamp plate. It is a little more involved to build but the solution was to cut the horn cavity into both the lens and clamp plate. First up is front view where you can see the height difference. Next up is the top view of both parts separated and you can see the cavity transition into the clamp plate. Here is a view into a complete assembly where you can see the seamless transition. And finally we have the clamp plate layout. There are four hole patterns and the dimensions are on the plate but to eliminate any potential for confusion here is the run down. 5mm hole on 3" or 76.2MM centers for drivers like the Faital HF 100 and 102 and the B&C DE10 5mm hole on 2.008" or 51mm centers for drivers like the B&C DE110 5mm hole on 2.252" or 57.2mm hole centers for drivers like the B&C DE120 .25" hole size on 3" or 76.2mm hole centers which is another common two bolt hole pattern. I am discontinuing the 1 and 3/8" 18TPI internally threaded clamp plate because the demand is not large enough for me to keep them on hand. It would involve a rework of the lens body and clamp plate to make this work and until there is a demand for these I am not going further. Honestly I think this is the end for the threaded clamp plates.
  4. If you are asking about my Walnut Forte II yes. The KP-301 is gone.
  5. No I have not since I never expect to build it. I did however post the drawings here for anyone who wants to. I require something much more substantial than a La Scala and ended up with the Super MWM
  6. I am kind of a cringey guy. You do bring up a good point though I have had decades of watching metal flow so I have no fear of excessive heat input on what I do but I can't speak for others skill level. I am trying to remember if there was space under those boards to get the soldering iron in there as I certainly like that method to.
  7. Show and tell never happened but the few who did see it liked it. It was a lot of trouble to do and I have not made up my mind if I am interested in making more. This was donated to the Klipsch museum with the instructions to auction it off and keep the funds. I have no idea what their plans are but it is theirs and might be the only set I do.
  8. I thought that's why the old Heresy's had the plys showing at the corners so the sound could bleed out that way.
  9. I'm with Rick. Way to much for those and if you are going to seriously mod them, like maybe make Super Heresy's in time, the I's are the ones to get. If you are going to leave them basically stock I prefer the K-55-V mid driver on the HI's but the H2's and up have a better tweeter. Personally I only get the HI's to fiddle with. If Cory had some B stock Heresy's and you want to spend that kind of money the new versions are the best of them all by a pretty big margin. I am a cheapskate though and like to fool with rebuilds.
  10. Leave the old leads in place and as much of them as you can. Then take the new cap and by eyeball cut one ends lead and put a 180 degree bend in it with enough past the bend to bend it tightly over the one lead sticking up. Then do the same at the other end and the trick here is to keep the trimmed and bent new cap leads short enough that you can snug it down into the spot where the old hot melt glue was. It makes kind of a cradle for the new cap to sit in. You are soldering close to the capacitor so you want to get on and off quickly to keep heat input low. If you are new to soldering practice first before you do this. If you can wait a week or two I have been thinking about making a video on doing this and posting it on my old CAD design channel on Youtube. Word of caution on removing old caps. Do so as gently as you can. Some of those are really stuck on there and you do not want to damage the PC board, Poly caps have no polarity.
  11. Say Mookie you DO know that's not the right kind of stuff to use when building high quality speakers right? There are studies out there proving layers confuse sound waves and they don't know if they should be going up and down or left to right or both.
  12. I will get exact info later to post as I have somewhere to go and no time.
  13. I am hoping someone here knows where to go for the 10000uf 100VDC capacitor. It is a Mepco/Centralab C-6485-4.
  14. There is no difference on the internal dimensions as far as I know. This was never built and was based on the basic Ls Scala plans out there everywhere. I would redo this if I were to build it so the pieces would all cut out of a 60" x 60" sheet of Baltic. One thing I did do is rebuild a set of bass bins and used 25mm Baltic for the sides and 18mm for the rest but made the bass bin 3" deeper to protect the point on the doghouse which is always getting beaten up. It was a nice sounding set.
  15. Hey Edgar remember insufficient heat from your soldering iron will cause more problems than one that gets to hot. A good one flows solder quickly and you get on and get off quickly.
  16. See Dean it was a safety measure and I did not want any tech's to get lacerated on sharp cable tie thingies.
  17. Right and next time I do one I will post a picture of the old cap removal and wire hookup on the new one before soldering.
  18. And last but not least the Heresy I's are the ones to get for modification into Super Heresy's which will get you most of the way back to Cornwall bass thump.
  19. I thought one could never have enough. Wasn't it Rockefeller who when asked how many speakers were enough he said just one more?
  20. Look you don't need to take that apart just clip the existing cap leads as close as you can to the capacitor end and solder your new caps in to those. On the 68uf cap I just zip tie a big ol poly cap o the top of the upper pc board, with some protection on the bottom of the cap, mainly the loop side of velcro, You do not need to take that old crossover apart. Yes getting them in and out can be tight but you will figure that out. I have a picture of one of my recaps jobs above did you not see that?
  21. Klipch makes the Jubilee so not sure what you mean. What you are getting since you asked for advice is advice on what various people who have heard these differing speakers have to say about relative sound quality in their eyes. You can hardly expect people to not tout their favorites when that is what you asked for. Personally speaking I would not stop at the Jubilee and would move up the food chain to monster cinema speakers which are another whole world of audio quality. But then my wife assures me I am not right and maybe that is true. I go through a lot of speakers each year and have two LSI's and an LS in the shop right now and they are OK. We heard the new Heresys, Fortes, La Scalas, Cornwalls and Jubilees the other weekend. The new Cornwalls sounded much, yes I used that word, better to me than the LS did. But once again it is all opinion and until you hear them in person you only have what you have heard to go by. Listen to a variety of speakers before you plunk your money down or suffer buyers remorse later when you go somewhere and hear something better you will wish you had bought instead.
  22. There were a number of us that heard the newest La Scala and Jubilee in Hope the other weekend. I think it is safe to say none would put the La Scala as being even close to the Jube. Yes and I am getting double posts sometimes lately.
  23. It's all that brown water you guys have been talking about for weeks doing it.
  24. It is hard to compare La Scalas to Jubes When you don't hear one half of the equation. I am betting the Jubes were not pretty enough since what he was looking for is overwhelmingly the domain of the Jubes. He never mentioned a real budget either so that may have been the clincher, who knows.
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