Khornukopia

Thanks

The light and shadow create an illusion in the picture.

It is the Dayton Audio Planar Horn tweeter. The 105 db sensitivity allows it to be used with a stock passive crossover. Sounds very good and it's dispersion pattern is well suited to the setback from the front edge of the speaker for time alignment positioning. In my case, it is bolted to the overhead shelf.

Good to see that. Could get even better when you fine tune your miniDSP settings.

Very interesting project.

Play music.

Attach the driver.

Fasten the new assembly in place.

The favorable thing about the K-horn design is that the treble section just unscrews, and can be stored in a box, so the speaker can later be re-assembled to it's original condition.

The OEM Klipschorn is very good, but it has always bothered me that the K-400/401 mid horn is mounted on the backside of the motorboard. The shape of the flange on the K-400 makes it difficult to mount on the front of the board, so I just have to use a newer style horn .

It is easier to read paper number 1 after browsing the graphs of Part 2.

Been listening to the 18 X 10 copper color horn as the mid on my center channel, and voices sound natural with it, so I'm going to try that type for my LF and RF also.

I might like to buy them, but first, let's help you set them up properly with Chris' settings.

No I did not use any filler. I fine sanded the veneer, vacuumed it, air blasted it and lightly wiped the surface with a painter's tack cloth, stained, then sprayed clear furniture lacquer. If I used filler and had a smoother surface, the wood could have more of a "glow" but I wanted the finished surface of the clear coat to have the texture show, so it doesn't look like flawless plastic. There is still a lot for me to learn, so I am open to any suggestions or advice.

I was making these for the garage speakers, but the clear coat makes the color tint look like a better match to my house speakers.

Clear lacquer coat.

Dust collection is very much worth the extra cost.

Looks good. What is the component to the left of the blue meters?

Sanded veneer and stained veneer.

Used plywood for the side panels, because of its superior strength and screw holding ability, and MDF for the motorboard, because of its its high density, anti-resonant properties. Actually, just used some leftover wood of convenient sizes. When sawing the big horn hole, I stopped short of the corners because it is easier to veneer and stain a full panel than one with extra edges.

Following Chris A's guidance posted above might be easier than my suggestion.

I would not run the K-691 tweeters without the crossover. I would leave them completely unplugged and just connect the Fortes, one as the bass unit and the other as the tweeter unit, until you figure out what is causing your condition with the miniDSP function. Have you used this exact miniDSP before with other speakers?

Your DSP settings look close enough for now, but the way you describe the sound, it seems as if the woofer is not getting signal. What happens when you physically bypass the miniDSP for the Forte power amp? Do not bypass the miniDSP for the tweeter circuit!

Can you post a screenshot of the miniDSP settings?

Yes, this is part of my center channel, with a La Scala bass bin below and a spot for a tweeter above. I used a K-55 with a 1" to 2" adapter for a while. Then a Radian 651PB. After painting the horn with the copper color, I re-installed it with a Selenium D-405. They all do a good job in this application.