wvu80
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Posts posted by wvu80
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The Pyle is the cheap stuff, I'm very sure it's CCA, Copper Coated Aluminum. What you want for a few dollars more is OFC, Oxygen Free Copper which has less resistance.
I use high strand OFC. Good speaker wire will list its specs and the cheap stuff does not. I also use and recommend Mediabridge locking banana plugs.
Will you hear a difference? Probably not. However I am in the camp of a lot of little improvements add up to a big improvement.
QuoteGet the most out of your home audio system with high quality, oxygen-free, pure bare copper speaker wire from Monoprice!
This speaker wire features two conductors made of high purity (greater than 99.95% pure), oxygen-free bare copper. Pure Bare Copper is a superior conductor to the copper clad aluminum (CCA) conductors used in most other inexpensive speaker wire. CCA is only about 68% as conductive as pure bare copper. This additional resistance is added to the impedance of your speakers and can negatively effect the sound.
For the wire to have no audible effect, the total wire resistance should be no more than 5% of the lowest impedance of your speakers. Even speakers rated for a nominal 8-ohms, may dip to as low as 4-ohms at some frequencies, which further reduces the total cable resistance allowed in the wire. Using Pure Bare Copper speaker wire ensures that the total load put on the amplifier remains as close as possible to the impedance curve of your speakers.
For example, a 16AWG 2-conductor Pure Bare Copper speaker wire has a total resistance of 0.803 ohms per 100 feet (both directions must be considered). By comparison, a 16AWG 2-conductor CCA speaker wire has a total resistance of 1.181 ohms per 100 feet. Assuming 4 ohms is the lowest impedance of your speakers, a speaker wire run can be no more 0.2-ohms total. 20 feet of 16AWG Pure Bare Copper would be 0.1606 ohms, well under the 0.2-ohm limit. On the other hand, 20 feet of 16AWG CCA would be 0.2362 ohms, well OVER the 0.2-ohm limit.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747
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Welcome to the Klipsch Forums. Your first post was a good one so no worries.
I am not a tube guy so I can't be of help there. I did own 70's era LS and Khorns.
Even though the LS's don't have ultra low bass what the do have is high quality bass, especially for music. If you listen to a string bass it has a resonance that is hard to reproduce electronically. Most subs will give that instrument a thump or maybe sound un-natural. The LS does such a fine job of playing acoustic instruments because of that folded horn woofer. It's a dramatic difference, I think you'll hear it right away.
I have read others here comment that not all tube amps are the same sound and not all tube amps work well with LS's. There are several guys who have figured out the right combination. Hopefully they'll weigh in and you'll get some good advice so you don't have to go through the expensive process of re-inventing the wheel.
I've found this Randy Travis video Forever and Ever Amen will show off your LS's male vocals and upright bass.
https://youtu.be/sgJXbIP83A8?t=46
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This has to be a scam. The website looks slick but I just don't believe laptops with I9 chips are around fifty bucks. Your take?
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I had the DH1A drivers for a project that never gone done, so they are sold. FYI the drivers are 24 pounds. Each.
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I need this product to connect my old 2-channel stereo receiver into my speakers AND a powered DIY sub that doesn't have high level OUT.
Can anybody point me to plans and a parts list so I can DIY it for a few bucks? I can solder.
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3 hours ago, CWelsh said:
I love Blast! Got to see them live in Chicago several years ago. What an amazing show.
I saw the inside show when they were the Star of Indiana and again when the name was transitioned to Blast!. They played "drum corps greatest hits."
Fully agree, amazing show!
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9 hours ago, wvu80 said:
Stan Kenton never sounded better.
If you liked the Stan Kenton version of Malaguena then you might like this version better because it's more interesting to watch. It's all brass instruments and the world class percussion is MUCH better.
BLAST! plays the same arrangement except they are playing it while moving forwards, backwards, and sideways. Bolero is the tag ending.
BLAST!
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I was listening to this on the RP-600M and an old JVC RX-403 receiver from probably the 90's. I just dug up the receiver and was surprised how good it sounded. Play this loud, it takes horns to play horns. Stan Kenton never sounded better.
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1 hour ago, rockhound said:
Anyone heard the audio lab 6000A play that won best amp?
I have not but the runner-up Cambridge AXR100 for $600 seemed pretty close in sound to the $1500 Audio Lab.
I don't know why but I am suddenly not as interested in a top AVR or a pre-pro but a 2-channel integrated amp instead. I'm not interested in top power but top SQ that might make the CF-4's express themselves in my computer setup. I used a few different amps and I was surprised to find how how particular the CF-4 was when it came to an amp. I've got a little cheap mini-amp with 100 wpc that just makes the CF-4's sound tinny.
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End of the year Best of Awards by Youtube reviewer Andrew Robinson
Under $5000: Forte IV
Over $5000: La Scala
Overall High End: La Scala
Andrew's Personal Favorite Product of the Year: La Scala
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2 hours ago, avguytx said:
What are you doing for "computer music"? Streaming something like Spotify, Tidal, Deezer, Qobuz, etc? If Amazon Music HD, get rid of that trash.
I play almost exclusively Youtube vids from the computer. I can't get the drum corps selections I like from the streaming services. Think jazz, trumpets, horn line etc times ten. I like a big sound from my system and I like articulate. Sub bass is least important.
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I'll need some time to digest the rest of your post, thanks for taking the time to type all that up. There's a lot of good stuff there and I'm not familiar with most of it, so research is needed. Good advice is always taken to heart by me.
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Like most of you guys I bought a mini amp, in my case an eSynic 100 wpc mini-amp for $100 just to play around with. It sounded pretty good with my RP-600M but not so good with the CF-4's. The CF-4's sound very nasal with the amp. This Topping PA5 is something I would consider as an upgrade. I have a couple of questions.
It looks like the PA5 is a $350 integrated amp with balanced inputs. It seems pretty clear that it is designed to be used with the companion E50 DAC for $269 which also features a balanced output to connect it to the PA5.
I would be using a computer setup 2.0 or 2.1. Since there is only Balanced TSR I presume I would need an adapter cable for RCA to TRS. My question will be about the need for the DAC and how that works. IE, Computer --> DAC ---> Integrated ---> speakers.
What do you guys think? Would the E50 give me better sound from the computer output? Is the DAC required for a more complete pre/pro and amp solution?
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1 hour ago, henry4841 said:
I wish now that I had never posted on this thread but
I think you are OK with posting that topic. There are multiple dozens of threads on the same topic in these forums. One of the problems finding the best ones is trying to search on La Scala, uh I mean lascalla, lascala, etc etc.
You obviously have strong feelings on the topic, nothing wrong with that either. What makes you and me different is that I read most of those old threads about the AL and at the time I didn't own the LS so I didn't commit all that detailed info to memory. The best I have is a vague recollection so I'm not able to point anybody in the exact direction of what I read. There were people who worked for Klipsch, Inc at the who were authoritative and who knew the backstory on all this.
QuoteI do not like to hear that Klipsch engineers made an bad sounding speaker. Never happened
especially when PWK was the head of the company.
Not every Klipsch speaker was "the best." Like everything else there are top tier products, mid price and yes, lower end Klipsch such as the Synergy speakers sold in Best Buy which did not sound very good. The fact that the AL was quickly replaced by the Type AL-2 should tell you something, as well as the AL-2 which was subsequently replaced by something better.
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All that extensive discussion on the AL exists somewhere in the archives of this forum. It's hard to find in a search but it's there if anyone has a further interest in that history.
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1 hour ago, Dave MacKay said:
What would be involved if one wanted to modify an AA to drop the crossover point to 4500 Hz?
I don't know, not an electronics guy.
I've never heard of anyone converting a Type AA to one with a 4500 Hz XO so there must be a reason. Good question though.
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47 minutes ago, mboxler said:2 hours ago, wvu80 said:
I believe this had the 4500 XO point.
Pretty sure the high pass filter to the K-77 was identical on the AL, AL-2, and AL-3 crossovers...around 6000Hz.
Thanks for the clarification on the low pass filter, I just couldn't remember. At some point Klipsch, Inc went with the 4500 Hz XO point. I didn't take notes as I should have to document exactly which version that was.
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On 12/2/2021 at 3:28 PM, henry4841 said:
I think it foolish to think the engineers at Klipsch ever made what you would call a bad crossover,
They did make a bad one, in fact, two. Both the AL and the AL-2 were considered the worst sounding Klipsch ever produced for the LS. There are numerous threads on this and more details on the backstory as to how that happened.
The AL came out in 1983 and was so bad it was immediately replaced in 1984 with the AL-2. The AL-3 came out in 1989 and was universally acclaimed as a good one. I believe this had the 4500 XO point.
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On 12/2/2021 at 11:59 AM, jason str said:
Al is considered the least desirable crossover in the La Scala though it's all individual preference.
I personally run the type A 4500
I agree with Jason ^^^ on all counts.
I owned Khorns and La Scala both with Type AA crossovers. I added the A/4500 crossover (XO) to the Khorns along with a more robust tweeter section. That was the best sound to my ears.
When we say "A/4500" that means the Type AA and the Type AL have a crossover point of 6000 Hz. The A/4500 drops the XO point of the tweeter to 4500 Hz. There was a known hole in the frequency response in that 4500-6000 range, technically. From a human listening point of view you could not hear a "hole" but it was there.
If the A/4500 XO is used a more robust tweeter needs to replace the delicate K-77 compression driver which could not handle the lower XO point.
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To our new Italian friend: Welcome to the Klipsch forums!
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4 hours ago, yamahaSHO said:
This is one of the more, if not most, restrictive forum I've been a part of in 20+ years.
You've obviously not been to the AVS forums. 😄
(yes I know you were kidding) 😁
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Michigan just jumped into 2nd in the AP poll, 3rd in the Coaches poll. Ohio State dropped 5 places.
None of this matters, it's all about what the CFP committee decides Tuesday.
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Depending on the trumpet material, some trumpets have a darker or lighter sound. The flugal horn has a darker sound. Chuck Mangione demonstrates.
When people talk about the term "timbre" (sounds like tamber, as in tambourine). the difference in sound between the bright sounding trumpet and darker sounding flugal is what we're talking about.
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25 minutes ago, drewogatory said:
I truly didn't mean to thread bomb guy's for sale thread on a great pair of K-horns.
I 100% believe you. When I first started posting here I made mistakes and other forum members were extremely helpful to help me understand the culture and etiquette of the Klipsch forums for which I am eternally grateful.
This is a great community with some incredibly smart people. I'm sure you'll fit right in. -Dave
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2 hours ago, RandyH001 said:
I'll do the same with mine once you've read this.
Thanks for the reminder my friend. I've now deleted my comment.
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How to connect Promedia 2.1 to Focusrite Scarlett 6i6
in Personal Music Systems
Posted
I'm not Klipsch but I have a suggestion; don't do it.
I picked up some Promedia 2.1 THX last week. Great speaker system for around a hundred bucks. The pre-amp module is proprietary and the entire system is self contained. You couldn't swap out the hard-wired speakers if you wanted to and the only option is to plug it into the AUX or HEADPHONE outputs of your source.
I say play it as-is for a really nice sounding desktop computer setup or with a TV. If you want a more sophisticated system with more inputs then use a different speaker and amp setup. I don't think it would be worth your while to add expensive mods to this inexpensive 2.1 self-powered system.