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The History Kid

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Posts posted by The History Kid

  1. 4 hours ago, Foxman said:

    I see an Emotiva MX-700 that is in range

    Avoid that unit like it's the plague.  It has so many communication issues and problems with software that it might as well be a $700 paperweight.  Absolute garbage - and Emotiva has no intention of making it a functional unit either.

     

    At $700 - go AVR, unless you can find something on accessories4less.

  2. Sadly, space doesn't allow for open reel.  We'll be using straight cassette.

    Thanks for the pointers @garyrc!

     

    The big thing was I didn't want junk out there.  I know $100 isn't a lot of paper to work with, but the best bang for the buck is what I was going for.  At any rate, might have a bead on a Nakamichi tape deck from a forum member.  From what I'm seeing and understanding that sounds like it's gonna be the route I go.

    • Like 3
  3. Tape decks.

     

    I'm just finishing up the pieces of the system that is replacing the console stereo in the living room.  The record player is a Diz-special, the Technics SL-1500, paired with a pair N- 500 series of gear from Yamaha for the amp and CD player.  Digital media gets handled by a tablet, so that just leaves one piece of the puzzle: the tape deck.

     

    I don't have much experience with tape decks.  My original experience grew from shelf systems in the 90s, moved to a Sony ES unit in the early 00's, and then put a Pioneer unit in the console, just because it matched the record player that was in there.  I'm looking for something better than just "a tape deck" at this point though.  Looks are a bit of a thing for this system too - I'm told it should either be silver faced and match the feel of the turntable, or a bit more modern and match the Yamaha gear.  Oof.

     

    The two brands that I've researched on is Technics (to match with the turntable) and Nakamichi (because my understanding is Nakamichi is God when it comes to tape decks, and I am wrong to question it).  That being said...I have no idea what models these giants got right, and which ones were flops or entries at the lower levels - nor do I know exactly what I'm looking for spec wise.

     

    Ideas, pointers, suggestions (be they model or brand), and leads are appreciated.

     

    Budget: if I can get away at $100 fine.  But if you can sell me on a reason to punch higher, I can go there.  Be warned - to me, it's still just a tape deck.  To the person in the house who wants one however......yeah.

     

    Educate me, you filthy heathens!

  4. Just now, ZEUS121996 said:

    Bummer, I thought you pulled the trigger

     

    Mark

    I don't have anyplace for Belle's realistically.  As much as I want them.  I could see myself pulling on Chorus - which I've heard and loved (they weren't mine though).  I have a new configuration of what I've been running in mind and I want to see if I can get there - doesn't involve changing speakers except maybe the sub at some point.

  5. @wvu80 & @dwilawyer

     

    The History Kid is a modern and contemporary military historian.  By and far the Civil War is outside my purview - save for the limited roles my installation had in the war, and the roles of key officers in the Civil War in the establishing of this installation.  That being said, there's often fairly heated debate amongst military historians on the Civil War.

     

    On the one hand, you have individuals who believe that the South was indeed treasonous - omitting the sovereignty that was granted by the constitution - and was rightfully punished after the war.  On the other hand, there are individuals who believe the South simply attempted to establish themselves by way of a second revolution.  I've often sat in the middle of these two commentaries and argued both sides.  No one can deny that many fought for their state, rather than the Confederacy, yet none can also argue about the onset at Fort Sumter.

     

    At any rate, I digress.  I'm a Cold War / GWOT military historian first and foremost.

     

    COVID-19 Remarks:

    It is day 44 since I've been in the office and in my archives - and I am not happy.  I need material to read and write on from there in relation to things I've been working on, I have tupperware in the fridge there that I'm sure is a biohazard, and I'm worried about my plant. >:[

    • Like 1
  6. So in reality, is it even possible deliver 150 watts RMS to a speaker that can play at 150 watts continuously? 
    Of course it is. But do you really need it in most circumstances? Doubtful. The need is usually a short burst of low frequency effects, not continuous. At least with Klipsch speakers that's the truth. It varies on the speaker. That's why you want to look at the sensitivity of the speaker in all of this too.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  7. What if I'm running 5 channels, but 105 watts per channel on the receiver and 120 watts from the amplifier, in that case is there really an advantage in running an amplifier? 
    You won't get 105 WPC x5 out of that AVR. Power ratings on AVRs are excessively overstated and have numerous caveats.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  8. 7 minutes ago, Mark Thenewb said:

    Do you know if adding an AMP will add more power to the receiver, or will it simply divide the task of providing power to the speakers. So if I had a 105 WPC receiver and added a 120 WPC AMP, would that mean each channel now has up to 225 WTP? 

    Adding an amp can in a roundabout way add power to the AVR.  Consider the following two examples:

     

    Example 1:

    AVR Power, 590 W Total Power

    AVR Powers the front 3 channels

    Amp powers the rear 4.

    You're probably going to get somewhere between 55 and 100 WPC for the front 3 channels and whatever the amp power rating is for the rear 4.

     

    Example 2:

    Same AVR Power

    AVR powers all 7 channels.

    You're probably going to see something around 25 to 55 WPC for all 7 channels.

     

    An outboard amp will guarantee you clean power, as long as it's a decent one.  It can take some of the excess load off the AVR too.  The more power you're deriving from the AVR, the less and less power it has to use. I'd say on average most AVR's with all channels driven run between 30 and 70 WPC and do not exceed that.  Adding an amp doesn't increase the overall power of the amp, but it can free up available power for the channels it is running, not to exceed it's own capacity.

  9. 7 hours ago, Mark Thenewb said:

    I took your advice and changed by amp to the Denon 4500H, I will be getting an OSD 5 Channel amp as well. 

    Good choice.  I am using a 4200 for my configuration - though I am using all outboard amplifiers right now.  It sounds like that's what you're working towards as well.  That 4500 has great expansions that should serve you well into the future.  It will put circles around any of those RX-V AVR's that's for sure.

    • Like 1
  10. I advise the OP to look elsewhere than the Yamaha RX-V line.  If you're set on Yamaha, you should look bare minimum at the RX-A Aventage lines.  The RX-V's have replaced most of the HTR line as the entry level Yamaha receivers and do not meet the same quality as the older RX-V models.  Make sure you look around for options on the RX-A's, they can be had for a decent price.

    • Like 2
  11. 54 minutes ago, willland said:

    Thanks guys for the replies and info.  Are you all speaking about the Reference bluetooth model?  I figure for $84.00 the risk is worth it.

     

    Bill

    I was referring to the Status.  They do a good job with noise too.

    I did still buy another pair just now though, even though I already have a pair.  Figure I'll use them at work when I go back.

  12. 2 minutes ago, ZEUS121996 said:

    If you had as many pricks sticking out of you as in you, you'd be a porcupine 🤣

     

    Mark

    I'm glad you laughed at that joke, at least someone finds you funny - even if it's only yourself. :P

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