Karsoncookie

Photo of backside would be interesting to see. Lars

The screens of both drivers, I would think, are synthetic cloth, not cotton or similar i think ??????? So they would melt at some high temp. If they are intact, did not get to that temp, so maybe ok????? Especially the squaker 55, sooo deeply inset. Lars

Well, at least the drivers are pretty well sealed. Xover components may have gotten what you're saying on the surface, so what? Clean/ wash/ scrub the terminal board . Lars

Regarding the cabinet, I would rather have the fire damage than major delamination by water, assuming one is ok with the Duratex as end result. Lars

My speakers, as my beef, I prefer rare. Lars

Myself, even if they "sound right", would always have in the back of my mind, it may be some "underperforming" of a driver or xover, from even invisible heat damage. Don't mean to rain on a parade or put a bee in your bonnet, just saying my possible concern. A speaker repair expert may possibly be able to conclusively answer this concern. Lars

Cabinet wise, you know, will look new after heavy feathering sanding and Duratex or similar. I would not fret over that part at all. Driver heat damage wise, outside of my knowledge. Lars

Ya, very unfortunate. You can only deal with reason to those potentially open to it. Past some point, force, of the appropriate level, is needed. In the idyllic world of Mayberry, Anj never had to deal with true psychopathic violent incorrigibles. Lars

Gentlemen and Ladies of the Forum - How is that terminal cup attached? Kinda funny, but is it possible it's press in friction fit? Lars

Even if you can get the stud screwed back in, it may come apart in future when you remove the cable. You need to find out how to permanently fix it. If it was strictly a mechanical joint, some type of Loctite would work. BUT - this is a signal carrying connection, and that is probably not be a good solution. Lars

If you gently re insert and attempt to thread in the stud, does it not engage with the hidden nut? If not, only then you may have to go inside. Someone who intimately knows this particular ?proprietary? binding post needs to advise. I would hope one of the Klipsch employees on this board should be able to help you, if not others. Be assured , you are in the right place to get this help. Give it a day or two, and keep your post at the top. Lars

Very nice. I would put one single screw into the floor, in center of base, or maybe a bit to rear of center. But very nice. Excellent. Lars

No matter how your Pup's vision turns out, he will have a great life with your caring. Best to you, Lars

A good hand buffing will make those open mitres look as new. Pause........................................................... NOTT. You should point out to the coffee table guy his roof leaks. Badly. Dang. Lars

He said Mole. Lars l

Where Klingons reside. Lars

Very cool. I have no hi test "machining" experience, but I am very proud of my fully restored 1950's Rockwell drill press. Only one little divot on the tray !! in all those years. Thank you for responses, Lars

Makes total sense to me, especially the forward feed needed, not grabby. Self centering, better than typical die grinder bits. But now that's just for the flash. Some are talking about unequal ID's of driver and horn, and further, in addition to that, and then I brought up possibilty of not on axis centerings to each other, if that's understandable. Lastly, I brought up if a small step even really matters, I dunno. Lars

No no, I mean reaming the flash and other imperfections on the ID of the throat, past the threaded portion. So question is - It would be more accurate to avoid off centering creating a step by indexing from center of threaded part meaning center of driver nipple than centering on existing throat. They should be the same, but in reality may not be, due to mold innacuracy, and aging as discussed here - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/164892-that-k-400-washer/?hl=k400#entry2036018 And some posts here - after approx post 68 -- https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/164065-help-teens-rebuild-lascala-speakers/page-4?hl=k400#entry2031298 Lars

Well yes, but again, why screw with that? Theyre not gioing to sell you 8 of them.. Again, old school hardware store Hillman drawers correct length cap screws as per my link. Lars Screw with that. That's funny, my funeral home humor for the evening.

MLO - Just curious, you make trailers correct? Lars

Ok good. Lars

Bring the driver to the store, and test in situ. I would assume the BC is tapped very accurately, so it's a cheap high tolerance bolt you got. Lars

I'm sticking with that. And what Mr. Mungki agrees with., test w non plated nuts, Lars

Possibly the bolt you got is crap made and needs thread chasing. With a hex head, and cad plating, possibilty of that. Meaning, I think the grade of bolt you got may not be as precisly made as an unplated cap screw. Lars