minn_male42

---------------- On 4/16/2005 5:29:30 PM sivadselim wrote: don't use plain analog cables unless they're 75ohm. the suggestion of 2 sets of component video cables (2 x 3 = 6) will work well. ---------------- why do you suggest 75 ohm cables for this appilcation? SACD and DVD-audio outputs are NOT 75 ohm output impedance.... having said that.... my recommendation above is a 75 ohm cable....

---------------- On 4/15/2005 10:44:36 AM pyroponic wrote: I apologize for this off-topic post, but I was curious about something. When you guys go to a bar or club that plays a lot of music do you find many to have mediocre sound systems? I was at this medium-sized club last night and quite honestly it sounded like ****...especially at the volume they were playing it at. And it's funny, I didn't mean to be critical or anything since I was there to have a good time but it was just it just a subconcious thing that i'm wondering if any of you share. ---------------- i don't have to go to bars/clubs to hear mediocre sound.... just stop in at your local ultimate electronics store and check out their dedicated listening rooms the kef, def tech, and whatever else they push ALL sound mediocre compared to my system at home.... (they usually have one room setup with an RF-7 system - that room is ok) even my 10 year old daughter said the same thing.... "the movies sound much better at home daddy"

the attached pdf from the belden website shows you the percentage of power loss over distance of the different gauge wires so... yes... 16 gauge should be fine unless you are running HUGE distances 122.pdf

---------------- On 4/14/2005 2:10:06 PM mdbrien wrote: Can someone tell me if expensive CD players really sound better than less expensive CD players. Also, are there any tricks to help a CD player not skip. The reason I ask, there are times when I really want to crank the volumn up, and the vibration from the bass will make the CD player skip. I have an 8x oversampling player, and really don't have much knowledge about the different types of CD players. Thanks, ---------------- for the cd player skipping... you need to provide some sort of isolation and/or damping in your rack or on the shelf it sits on there are a ton of aftermarket "tweaks" that you can get for this... from brass pedestals to sand filled boxes to anything you can dream up a good way to test what will work is to crank up your tunes and when your cd starts skipping, put your hand on top of the player and press down... if the skipping stops, just get a heavy ceramic tile (like 12" x 12") from home depot and cover it with black duct tape and just place it on top of the player the other method is to isolate the cd player from the vibrations by using some material that does not transmit vibrations from the shelf/rack to the player from underneath.... inert, heavy, dense material seems to work the best... heavy rubber under the feet of the cd player might work another "tweak" is to get self-adhesive roofing repair material and attach it to the inside of the metal case of the cd player.... this deadens the case and does reduce vibrations.... it also helps reduce transformer noise on power amplifiers (if your unit runs hot - do not do this one) btw - i am suggesting low cost do-it-yourself ways to fix your problems.... if you go into your local high end audio place they can easily solve your problem and lighten your wallet in the process good luck! as for more expensive cd players sounding better than low cost ones.... i am in the camp that believes higher end players do have lower jitter rates and DO sound better than low end models

---------------- On 4/13/2005 9:02:53 PM homemade wrote: The early style 901's that I built had very effecient midrange but one had to run 12db of boost in the bass and treble to make it sound balanced. I would imagine though that one could run them unequalized as a pa speaker and not sound too bad for voice with good efficiency.... ---------------- bose does exactly that.... check out their 802 pro speaker...look familiar? http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--17154/ it does a nice job for a pa speaker.... nice small package... it DOES use a controller however but like most bose speakers.... overpriced for what you get!

---------------- On 4/13/2005 4:11:44 PM Drew in the desert wrote: I've actually been thinking about making my own cables. I've never done it before. Where did you get the cable and terminations, Parts Express? What should I keep in mind if I decide to DIY? Is there anything I can really mess up? ---------------- i got the connectors and cable at a local electronics distributor here in minneapolis make sure you get RG-59 with solid copper center and copper braid for the shield material...

---------------- On 4/13/2005 3:21:50 PM kenratboy wrote: Would one of the Panamax 'power centers' do anything? I can get them at a dealer discount, so it is a good deal. ---------------- very possibly.... i would take one home and try it as to amy's ground loop suggestion.... usually a ground loop noise is much louder than what you are describing but always try all ways to solve the problem.... unplug the various devices in your system one at a time and see if the hiss/noise changes or goes away

have you tried a different amp/receiver? and is it on all sources? many receivers/amps will have some very low noise.... with my carver pro ZR amp i can hear a slight hiss at about 6 inches and closer to the tweeter horn on my KLF-30's any furthur away it can't be heard it is possible that a surge protector/power conditioner with some filtering capabilities might reduce that hiss/noise somewhat

(at the risk of being attacked by the griffinator again) i personally made my own cables to the exact length i needed between my SACD player and my receiver i used belden RG-59 cable (copper center with copper braid) and switchcraft RCA connectors probably a total investment of less than $20 for all 6 cables (each about 1.5 feet long) and the sound is great!!! took me about 30 minutes to solder the connections

---------------- On 4/13/2005 11:14:42 AM DizRotus wrote: Russ, On the contrary, I care very little about the font used. I do care about correct spelling, capitalization and punctuation, i.e., posts are typically done first as a Word document and then pasted into the forum. If you find unexpected fonts difficult to read, you have my permission to skip the post. ---------------- for not caring about the font, you seem to make a conscious effort to select different fonts from one post to the next so much for just using the default font that comes up in Word personally - your posts really don't interest me that much..... but it is nice if everyone can read your posts if they so desire

neil, do you have an obsession with different fonts? honestly, some of your posts are difficult to read because you feel the need to play around with the fonts all the time.....

---------------- On 4/12/2005 8:29:59 PM kenratboy wrote: The front speakers are DEAD quiet. No hiss, no static, even at high levels - awesome!!! However, there is a VERY faint transformer/buzzing noise out of the rears, like the 60 Hz. buzzing from hi-voltage lines or a transformer: The rear wires run past all sorts of electric stuff - literally ON or 1" away. Transformers, a UPS, ~6 active power cords and appliances, etc. Can the speakers pick this up? Not annoying, but trying to figure out what. ---------------- yes your speaker wires can definitely pick up electrical interference from power cables, flourescent lights, and other electrical devices try to move all power cords away from the speaker cables...... another option would be to use twisted pair speaker cable - this is the inwall style - two individual cables in a twisted pair configuration inside an overall pvc jacket http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-734 twisted pair configuration rejects interference...... that is why network cables are designed this way (CAT 5 cable is 4 twisted pairs) if you must have your speaker cables near power cables - try to cross them at right angles

i read someplace that the first models were going to be around $1000

here ya go! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5765829081&category=39817 only $2498!!!! unfortunately there are no blu-ray discs yet available

it's really too bad that griff makes negative, derisive comments on my recommendations and refuses to tell us what he would recommend it's too bad that he has chosen to post a few attack comments and then refuse to post any real information

---------------- On 4/9/2005 11:16:00 PM toddvj wrote: I'm not trying to butt into this argument, I'm just wondering why you would use RG-59 over RG-6? For the record, I have RG-6 running from my equipment rack to my TV downstairs (25 ft length) and my TV upstairs (50 ft. length) with RCA connectors (not even soldered, just screwed on) and I think the picture is great. I'm very happy with the picture quality on High Def. This is from somebody who used to use $120.00 Component Video cables (1 meter). My new set ran me about $14.00 at about 8x the length. ---------------- RG-6 is also a good alternative and can work well... i suggested the belden RG-59 because it is more flexible for interconnects, has a solid copper center, and a copper braid.... as long as the RG-6 that you use is "copper-copper" it can also be a great interconnect some low cost RG-6 and RG-59 actually uses a steel center conductor and a steel braid for the shield.... just avoid the stell and/or aluminum RG-6 and RG-59 and you should have a good cable.... for video as well as audio applications!

---------------- On 4/9/2005 7:04:37 PM Griffinator wrote: I realized after I posted the original statement that I was still utterly bored with your sermons about coax, and I attempted to bow out of this "discussion"... Sorry, dude, but I don't rep any of the lazy brand "manufacturers" who buy Belden cable, slap connectors on it, and package it at 40x markup. I know exactly what Belden RG-59 costs per foot, and I also know its construction. I also know what RG-59 looks like carrying analog video, and it ain't pretty compared to more sophisticated designs. ---------------- more "marketing" talk from the griff!!! "sophisticated designs"...... total marketing CRAP!!!! what cables are you talking about?..... what is the "sophisticated design"?.... what are the specs for these "sophisticated designs"? kentratboy posted that you don't push expensive cables on your customers...... what cables do you sell your customers? you attack my recommendation as a lousy idea for carrying "high definition analog video"...... so tell us what is a good cable..... and while you are at it.... give us the specifications for that cable - some real numbers that can PROVE your postion!!! if you can't do that then you are just making marketing claims.... just like monster cable and all the rest of the B.S. cable manufacturers it's time to put up or shut up!

---------------- On 4/9/2005 10:33:59 AM kenratboy wrote: ---------------- On 4/9/2005 8:34:52 AM minn_male42 wrote: what is funny is that YOU or no one else can publish specs that prove your cables or any other cables are superior to the belden cable that i listed above....... you need to do some reading kentratboy or do you might actually believe the CRAP that the marketing departments of monster cable and the other companies are shoveling out???? i KNOW the facts about cables and what the specifications are for precision analog video applications..... do you??? ---------------- I have never had any disagreemen with you, but this sh!t has to stop, NOW. I hate Monster ***I only bought these cables because they presented the most AFFORDABLE OPTION (I SELL them, dealer price ) to me and they are visible (want them to look nice)*** You are really being a jerk. Wow, just WOW. ---------------- I am being a jerk??? you posted "LOL - if only you knew. This is SOOOO funny. I would say, but I will let Griff respond " sure sounded like a "jerk" comment to me

---------------- On 4/9/2005 1:23:32 AM kenratboy wrote: LOL - if only you knew. This is SOOOO funny. I would say, but I will let Griff respond ---------------- what is funny is that YOU or no one else can publish specs that prove your cables or any other cables are superior to the belden cable that i listed above....... you need to do some reading kentratboy or do you might actually believe the CRAP that the marketing departments of monster cable and the other companies are shoveling out???? i KNOW the facts about cables and what the specifications are for precision analog video applications..... do you???

hey griff! we're all still waiting to read the "superior" specs of the video cable that you sell and use in your installs...... please enlighten us so we can improve our systems..... because using belden RG-59 according to you is sooooooooooooo bad

---------------- On 4/7/2005 4:56:03 PM Griffinator wrote: Jesus, minn_male - here we go again with the RG-59 for passing high-frequency analog video. Funny, but as I watch basic cable on my TV, I think to myself "gee, this is really great video transmission - look at all the distorted color, the static, the snow, man I'm glad my cable company uses RG-59 to deliver this signal to me... ---------------- amazing that someone who sells audio/video equipment doesn't even know what cable the cable comapny actually uses.... the cable company uses RG-6 to bring the cable signal to your house! additionally - the RG-6 is usually steel center conductor with aluminum or steel braided shielding as for using belden RG-59 for analog video cables..... what spec of belden RG-59 is inadequate for "high-frequency analog video"??? more importantly - what cable can you recommend that has a "better" spec than the belden cable?? on the following page - enter "8241B" in the search box to see all the specs for this belden cable http://bwccat.belden.com/ecat/jsp/Index.jsp?&P1=undefined&P2=undefined&P3=undefined&P4=undefined&P5=undefined&P6=undefined "Coax- Standard Analog Video Cable - 75 Ohm Coax Number of Coax: 1 RG Type: 59/U AWG: 23 Stranding: Solid Conductor Material: BC - Bare Copper Insulation Material: PE - Polyethylene Outer Shield Material: BC - Bare Copper Outer Jacket Material: PVC - Polyvinyl Chloride Plenum (Y/N): N Nom. Characteristic Impedance: 75Ù Applications: Coax Cables, Precision Video Cable for Analog and Digital, Standard Analog Video Cables - 75 Ohm Coax" btw - if you rip apart many of those "high-end" cables that you sell to your customers - you will find the same construction as the belden cable listed above

(double post)

---------------- On 4/7/2005 8:11:41 AM Frzninvt wrote: Here is the inside of the Aragon 2007, so I must ask "Where's the Beef!" I did not say that it did not sound good, I said the build quality left a bit to be desired for the cash you layout for one. Isn't it fishing season in Minnesota yet Russ? You got 10,000 lakes to explore so get busy! ---------------- it's actually closer to 15,000 lakes..... about half of the state has open water.... unfortunately i prefer to fish up north (where the lakes are still frozen).... crappies for starters after the ice goes out until May 14 (fishing opener!) WOOOO - HOOOOOO!!!!!

doing a quick search..... (and make sure that it is copper center with a copper braid).... 25 cents a foot http://www.tessco.com/products/displaySkus.do?groupId=408&subgroupId=12 any name brand that is copper center/copper braid will also work well..... carol, beden, comscope, etc for connectors.... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=092-110 $1.19 each for a neutrik nickle plated version $18.75 for the cable and 7.14 for the connectors...... add $10.00 for shipping (if you order the parts online).... about $35.00 total find the parts locally ... roughly $25 or so... all the cables in my system are belden RG-59 (copper/copper) with neutrik or switchcraft connectors..... (except for SVHS cables)... they all are made to the exact length required.... no extra cable laying around in loops or on the floor....

get some belden RG-59 and some switchcraft or neutrik RCA connectors.... with some basic soldering skills you can make a great cable for even less money!