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Maximus89

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Everything posted by Maximus89

  1. Ive got a Dean build with ODAM caps incoming soon(not la scalas). Excited. You have any experience with those caps?
  2. Same experience here. I always feel happy about not needing a sub until i bring one in and you go "oh. so that's full range" and you can't go back. I have my RSW-15 at 60hz with my CF-4 and CF-3s though. That RSW-15 is old now, but Klipsch sure got it right with that model. The only time i didn't use it was with KHorns except for movies. I didn't have the RSW-15s when i had my 4 split pro La Scalas so i lived with the limited low end, but that mid bass was oh so snappy and fast. I think i liked those pro woofers better for the mid bass even though they didn't go as low. I'd sure love to go back to KHorns or La Scalas(or Jubescalas!) with that KPT-1502 or 1802. I chose 60hz because i also watch movies in 2.1. Would a 40hz crossover be too low for movies? I wouldn't want to run these woofers too hard. I don't use an AVR, i have the subs directly into my "for sub system" outputs on my Accuphase C-280v
  3. Dean! You're the first person I looked for but couldn't find you. I like the new name! I'm already familiar with your work on my klipschorns so ill send you a PM here soon Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. I did way back when and they wouldn't work on the cf4 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. No soldering experience here. Rather pay someone than learn Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. I've got a loose rear baffle that was held together with clamps. Both speakers. I'm just now getting around to a little project of titebond II for the rear baffle and then add a bit of bracing. In doing so, i just discovered my crossover looking like this with one of the red parts hanging and loose to the touch. Yet, my speaker was working. What's up with this? Any experienced volunteers for repair and recap? I know the Klipsch approved crossover guy wouldn't work on the CF-4, so what are my options? I'd rather come to you guys first instead of a local repair tech i've never met. He's expensive and slow, but heard he's good. I have backup CF-3 v.1 so i can ship the crossovers to a forum member with enough free time to make a little money PM me if you don't want Roy to see you volunteer to molest his first child, maybe it'll come back with a case of the mumps...
  7. No need for high resolution. I mentioned that before I knew what the output meant- thinking i could send the signal out to another dac which would do high res while having the signal pass through the dc-91. Im good with Redbook. Theres good measuring cheap delta sigma dsd dacs if I want a 2nd dsd dac. Or rather 3rd as I have a multichannel hdmi dac as well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. Appreciate it! Well this dac is 30 years old and sounds better than 2 different Audio Note Dacs, a modwright tube modded oppo and an ares ii and several other $1k range dacs i had in here. I was expecting an r2r ladder dac type of sound like the Ares II which i found addictive, but it's a very clean modern sound. Crazy revealing, but a bit lean on the mid bass it's only drawback and bad recordings sound bad unlike through a NOS ladder dac where everything sounds analog and lush imo. They retain their value so i'll likely try a dsd capable NOS r2r DAC next or decide to send it to a tech to recap and modify it-here's a quote containing some of what he'd do "I certainly agree with you on the sound of a stock or "conventionally upgraded" Accuphase DC-91. For god knows what reason, other than it was common practice at the time, each of the 32 pcm63 chips has it's own feedback i/v opamp, then into a common buffer, then into a HORRIBLE GIC filter, then output buffer and balanced driver amp. With single common passive i/v resistor per 16 dacs per channel, then my no-feedback voltage gain + line driver stages, plus way larger caps around each of the dacs(over 500 nice Nichicon caps I had to replace with larger nice Nichicon caps, exhausting), the resulting sound is absolutely spectacular, without even changing the ancient YM3436 input receiver or d/f arrangement."
  9. Thanks man. I must have poor reading comprehension since i read that very review before posting and it all went over my head. I can see it if i got myself a 2nd dac for DSD, but that's usually DOP through toslink and spidf. Or let's say i got a tube dac for a different flavor that also played my high res 24/96 and 24/192 music specifically and the DC-91 offers a connection no other modern dac has - ST glass optical-which i am using. In that case, i would get the benefits of the apparently too-expensive-to-produce ST Glass Optical connection benefit with another dac despite it's being output in toslink/spidf? If i did this, the DC-91 would NOT be analog out to anything-the new dac would be analog out to a preamp, correct? Final question. The DC-91 can technically be used direct to power amp-wouldn't it benefit the sound outputting to another dac if the volume control is the DC-91?
  10. Ah so it's a worthless option basically in most cases? The DC-91 won't pass through any of it's sonic benefits to the next dac? The next dac would just have it's own multiple inputs so this would only be cool if some form of the audio signal was passing through the DC-91 improving the quality of the new DAC.
  11. I have had had this vintage redbook limited resolution DAC for a month now and never questioned what the toslink and spidf OUT of my dac would be used for. In a sterophile review, this was a quote about the OUT: "Two 24-bit digital outputs are also provided to maintain compatibility with the next generation of digital components." I'm still quite confused on what it is. Everything goes IN to the dac which is analog out to the preamp so i can't come up with any way the dac would output it's digital signal received from a transport. Am i overthinking this? Help me out here
  12. I dont have the la scalas anymore. If I did, I would have invested in 3 used decware zbox tube buffers in between the evolve analog outs and the preamp. The sr7007 is not currently working but it has alwyas had a bad hdmi board. The hdmi out and thr front hdmi worked. So technically I could have used the hdmi out to a switcher then switcher out to my TV. Preouts and analog outs and built in power amps of the unit stopped working. Never got around to repairing it. Since then I've had multiple mcintosh multichannel analog pres and currently use one from Accuphase. I had been looking for a Conrad Johnson MET1 multichannel tube pre but never came up. They all do good enough job with surround, but not being able to run a room correction does become a pain at times. The center kv4 always too low volume next to the cf4s. Surround takes a back seat to 2ch music so I guess I'm in the very small market those early 2000s era high end multichannel analog units were being built for. I had a pathos cinema x in here which was awesome for 2ch in auto bridge and surround with its tube preamp was great, but all of these analog multichannel systems have very basic manual channel trim levels. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. Works great. Still using it today. The switcher has only 1 problem with a long hdmi run in where it goes black for a sec and comes back. I also have problems with the ps5 blu ray player playing back in surround and the ps5 hbomax app. Could be a ps5 issue. I don't know. I have a separate blu ray player and all surround works on thst including Netflix, prime and vudu or plex, but it doesn't have hbomax or disney+ etc. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of work Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. I'm a believer that cables make a difference. I was a skeptic using all basic stock power cords and amazon basics interconnects and car speaker wire of a thicker gauge. I met a guy who wanted to hear my DAC i had for sale and i got to know him and the topic came up and he didn't push anything on me and even recommended budget cables to me that sounded good but most of his system if high end and he has a lot of very expensive stuff just sitting in his back room. So he let me borrow some Duelund DIY power cables, some high end Shunyata power cables and a few other pricey ones i don't remember. A $4k furutech power conditioner. Some $500+ interconnects. The Shunyata power cables(i tried several) all made a big jump from the standard cables. The interconnects all made an improvement. The Duelund which used silver and some other silver interconnects were all my least favorite because in my system everything i tried with silver is annoyingly sibilant for some reason and it's put me off to silver. The $4k power conditioner compared to my old home theater panamax power conditioner with several non current limiting outlets? Didn't hear a difference. Whether my system was not resolving enough to hear the difference in power conditioners, i don't know. At the time i had 3 different DACs he let me use with my McIntosh set up, an Audio Note 0.1x, an Audio Note 2.something kit?(both AN Dacs were upgraded/modded), and a ModWright Tube Modded Oppo-105. I've also had my current Accuphase set up with a Denafrips Ares II when i've used some of his interconnects, from AcroLink and another sibilant expensive silver cable and a cheaper blue jeans cable. All made a difference over a standard digital coax-with the blue jeans being good enough of a jump for me. I myself was using a printer cable for my USB DAC. I purchased a Supra USB cable based on reviews and it's relatively cheap. It was an obvious jump in clarity. Where i land though, is in the camp of diminishing returns. The jump from basic cables to a good low budget cable is big, the jump from the good low budget cable to $500 cables? Extremely subtle and just not worth it for me. Funny enough i had just spent the past few days looking at different internal speaker wire myself before i saw this topic. Duelund and Audio Note and Jupiter wire. No idea if internal speaker wire makes a difference, but i'm sure it does over the cheap wire a lot of speakers use.
  16. Nope. I know a few. Seems their hearing is fine outside of the upper regions. Craig is a drummer and he has 3 front Jubilee and 2 khorn LF with k402 as surrounds. His room is whisper quiet and you can hear every detail and he had no problem hearing the things I was hearing as we described to each other the sound of each track even though I believe he's mentioned troubling hearing the high frequencies. I'm sure its a case by case situation since there are old guys still rocking out. Jagger must have ear drums of steel at nearly 80 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  17. You'll be alright man as long as it's comfortable. I doubt any of this is audio related. Band members that play concerts etc lose some hearing in the top end ans temporary ringing is likely but tinnitus and infections are highly likely due to some difficult to find underlying problem as said before. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  18. That would be amazing. Thanks for the info [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  19. Yeah this one seems to be good for many although it gave one negative reviewer an infection somehow. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001AGMWE/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  20. I appreciate the tips. Its hard not to pick away at the dry flakes. Ill look into the mineral or olive oil remedy. Ive also came across a product online. Some drops for ear psoriasis the comments all swear by so ill try that too! I'll post the link here if anyone else has the same problem. Hopefully it all works out! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  21. Thanks man. I will for sure. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  22. Ive been away from my system for 6 months and my ears started ringing in that time. Its just a never ending ringing in both ears and random higher pitched pops and sounds. Mostly bothers me in the quiet. YouTube 8 hour sounds help me drown it out but don't actually help me sleep. I did have a lot of infections several of which were just awful experiences in both ears several years ago. They came and went for 2 years but its been a few years since the last. I now have psoriasis in my ears and I wonder if thats what started my tinnitus. Obviously I have to go to the ent and im not blaming my Cf4's and even had many extremely loud klipschorn sessions in a small room before the CF4s. I just think I'm maybe nearing the end of this journey. This hobby and the music and entertainment has meant the world to me over these past few years but I just cant enjoy anything with this damned ringing and popping and on/off wax blocked ears. Ive got a lot of money into this that I could use elsewhere. I dont even really listen to anything but scores and ambient backgrounds now. I find all I care about anymore is ambient detail retrieval and tight/deep low end at lower volumes. A sweet and smooth bell or something sounds magical to my ears now. Like little magical dust sparkling and floating around my ears. My Accuphase gear with the Cf4 is giving me that + good low end at relatively low volume but is that enough to justify how much I've spent? Idk. I gotta see an ent but everything I read is they can't do anything for me anyway for psoriasis or tinnitus. Continued hearing loss seems inevitable and im just so bummed out right now. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  23. That makes sense. this is what im looking at except the DAC option board is newer with usb which i use with my PC as a transport. D Output is Subwoofer. Both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs. I have 5.1 analog outs to the Line 1 Inputs of a multichannel analog HDMI DAC. Subwoofer gets the LFE signal using the Line 1. While it's not bad for music and i can use the sub with it, the DSD DAC board with USB is of higher quality for 2ch music, but the sub won't work for it even with DSP sub add ons in my foobar2000 settings.
  24. Thanks, i took a quick look at some and while they look the part of something that will work perfectly, i'm just not sure how they'd connect to each device but ill figure it out!
  25. So one line can go to the Sub out on the preamp for movie LFE track and the other to the Left or Right speaker input on the preamp
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