Loneshark

I need some help deciding what I'm looking at and then the best way to proceed. I hope I write this in a way that you all can follow. The cabinets in question are Heresy's labeled HOL and I'm not sure if that meant oiled or lacquered- I believe that all of what I'm seeing is original from Klipsch. I got the speakers in rough shape and fixed the sonic bits so now I'm trying to deal with these cabinets. After sanding down all surfaces to remove what I could of dings, scratches, and marks, I noticed this white color showing up under what looks like the finish. Its worse at the edges than on the sides because almost all edges show this drastic difference in color and the troughs of the grain show the white I'm talking about. I'd also like to point out what looks like cracking of the finish in picture 1 (almost a fish scale look). The second picture shows the bottom of this cabinet - some percentage has a finish like the other sides of the cabinet and the rest has it missing. Both surfaces are smooth because of sanding but I didn't expect the finish to stick around after the sanding process. Now I'm really interested in what you guys know about cabinet making. Is this a lacquer that I can remove? If I can remove it, what am I left with when it is off - and is that what I'm calling the white? I'd like to remove it all so I can stain IF real wood exists beneath the finish.

What in all did you purchase/install and what are your thoughts? I've been fantasizing about making the purchase but haven't bitten yet.

Has anyone messed about with dying (dyeing? I don't know...spell check that one) the black grilles to look cane?

What's referred to as the 1.5, and was never actually marketed as such, was a Heresy made for a while in the overlapping years of the 1 and 2 series. If memory is correct, you would have the Heresy 2 squaker (K53) the original tweeter (k77m), and the woofer (k23). Your squaker horn body is probably plastic. That's the 1.5 set up and then add an E2 crossover network with the extra 33 microfarad capacitor. I think we have the same speakers but a year off. Edit/Addition: I don't think this "1.5" designation the general public has come up with makes it any more rare or valued so I don't think you'll get any buyers on that alone

I just finished a pair of 83s. Mine had exactly what your pictures show. Could you clarify what you mean by what do you have?

I buy my logos on Ebay or wait for Christmas and then request them as a gift . On another note, and I don't mean to hijack this thread, I'm in need of some Heresy grills and I'd like to know where you got yours. They look fantastic!

Woo! Thank goodness this week is finally over. I sat down tonight and installed the new tweeter diaphragm and made sure it worked. New caps were also installed tonight in one network for A/B purposes. Talk about a second wind....cymbal hits during music playback on the updated crossover network are in your face while the old network kind of shrugs off the cymbal all together. I'm so glad I paid the money for the new caps. Also I made the mistake of finding out how hot solder is on the back of my hand. Every speaker project leaves a mark but this is my first with solder. Does that mean I'm in the club now?

"I think your just not use to hearing good speakers" I really hope that isn't the case or my Fortes were a waste haha but I know what you mean. This is my first run through with the true Heritage line instead of my extended Heritage. I'm running a Yamaha receiver so my treble control is limited a little. The working Heresy I have now doesn't sound bad, just very efficient.

I'm on a complete freeze. The new diaphragm and caps come in sometime this week. I'm hopeful that it and the caps will happen around the same time because I really want to hear these things play. I've put the working K-77M, one of the K-53-K horns, and a K-22 in a cabinet and put the back on with the original crossovers. I'm amazed at how much better they sound since the time when I initially took them home- more balanced, less depressing. A little TLC really helped these babies in sound and looks. My girlfriend was a little taken back at how bright the highs were and honestly so was I. I'm messing around with taping a 2 ply tissue in the horn's throat to quell the shrill (but then again that's just the old Klipsch heritage style).

I've done spacing between my forte IIs as far as 12 feet and never had trouble with proper imaging when I was sitting about 9 feet back. I've always felt there's a pretty large soundstage as long as you are near the sweet spot for how wide your speaker placement is. Fabulous find by the way. All my speakers have knicks or light scratches but I don't complain at all after turning them on

Sit-rep: Finally had time to sit and tinker. So what I've found is that the tweeter assembly where the diaphragm gets soldered on has not been compromised by my novice soldering and melting techniques. I tested this by externalizing an entire copper wire cable of about 8 inches and running it on the same course as the tweeter diaghram. Good news...the wire is a circuit if the two terminal ends are connected. So I've now pretty much decided that at some point in my first attempt at tweeter diaphragm replacement I broke my brand new voice coil or lead wires. All that's no fun but I've put another on order and hope to replicate my very successful replacement of the other tweeter. Caps (Solen, 5%, metalized polypropylene) are also on order and I'll drop those in the crossover next week. Additionally, I've done quite a bit of reading on this forum about replacing the T2A transformer and the inductor but have decided not to despite their visual age. Any further thoughts on the crossover bits?

wow this is good to know that the ohms are different. I never considered factory wiring the dual woofer set-ups in series - I suppose because I've never had dual woofer rigs. On the replacements from Klipsch, I've called and tech support said they wouldn't be able to comment on anything that changes the original design of the speaker. That all makes perfect sense as I don't expect them to cover modification questions but I did inquire about the KG3/KG4 woofer swap with no answer other than "we can't comment". Replacements online and on Ebay seem to be in the range of 60 per woofer and these KG3s don't sound like something I need to dump more money in right now. So for the time being, it's looking more and more like they will be workshop speakers especially because I just picked up a deal on some 83 Heresys.

I do have a multimeter, but not on me now. I can report back later. For your second part, do you mean before I solder them in? I was under the impression that the diaghraphm would need to be in the magnet assembly to function

I just picked up a pair of 83 Heresys. I plan on bringing the components on the crossover back up to modern times but wanted to make sure the actual drivers worked before investing in the crossover. So long story short- the tweeters needed new diaphragms and I got them. I had some trouble unsoldering the old ones and melted some (minor) portion of the assembly but when I finished installation of the new diaghragm...no sound. Hooked up the squaker to the tweeter terminals and I get sound. My new tweeter is a different story though on the same terminals. I must be missing some knowledge here. How can I know if the new assembly is adequately soldered? Any ideas from the brethren?

anyone on this matter?