michaelstano

Take a deep, deep breath. Take two asprin and don't call me in the morning.

You'll like the 950. I recently moved from a 1050 to the 950 and couldn't be happier. I found the set up to be extremely easy, partially due to the OSD. If you have problems, the 950 crowd on the outlawaudio.com forum is very helpful.

Unless the sub was an incredible deal (i.e., it was so cheap you might be accused of stealing it), I would return it IMMEDIATELY for a refund (as opposed to a store credit). Any reputable retailer would not stick you with something that can be proven defective.

Ya'all probably knew this, but I just learned it: Jason Statham was the "the star" in The Transporter, and also "a star" in The Italian Job. Saw 2Fast 2 Furious last night--too cartoonish to be believable.

Obviously, you don't think the buzzing is natural. That is, you think something is wrong, and there probably is something wrong. Therefore, what you bought is defective. Usually, when I get something defective, I take it back.

I moved up from an Outlaw 1050 to an Outlaw 950 and I couldn't be more impressed or pleased. I bought my 950 used for $650, and there are several other used 950s for about the same price on Audiogon. I have it straight from Outlaw that the 5-year warranty is transferable--just get the original buyer's name.

I can't believe that more people have not seen this movie--great driving and great martial arts: "The Transporter." No, really. Didn't get much press, but it is well done and one of my favorites.

I pre-ordered my PB2-ISD right after the sub was announced. It was shipped Friday from Ohio and arrived in central Oklahoma today. I was so anxious to get it installed, I forgot to eat (a big deal for me). I have done a preliminary, quick calibration with a meter. Norah Jones sounds great--pure, omnipresent bass, that I feel more than hear, even at a moderate volume level. Will need to get "Daredevil" or another good soundtrack to really give it a workout. Wish I could be more scientific or esoteric in my review, but I don't have the technical background, and will have to leave the details for The Ear . I can say, I waited a long time for this sub, and I am ecstatic. To my ear, all the promises are fulfilled, and the lofty expectations are met. Wish I could share the sound with someone who would appreciate it.

I bought a 300 disk Sony from BestBuy for about $185. Given the complicated mechanism, I also bought the extended warranty, which, I think, was about $35. I have used the changer without problem for about 6 months. I use it for background music rather than critical listening. Although I like not having to handle disks, the main reason I bought the changer was that it was way cheaper than high quality CD racks that would hold similar numbers of CDs. The only draw back I find is having to eject the disks when I want to load the changer in the car.

You either need to introduce a volume control in the area of each speaker, or a speaker selector near your receiver. In either case, you should get volume controls or a selector that protect(s) against low impedance. Niles, ADCOM, Russound, Paradigm, and others make such devises. Be careful of inexpensive products, as they just switch and don't protect. I have 7 Paradigm volume controls, which were discounted to about $45 each. I had an ADCOM 3-pair switcher that was about $100 new. Crutchfield offers Niles individual volume controls from $50 to $80, and selectors from $100 for a 4-pair on/off (no volume control), to $360 for a 6-pair with volume control.

I have an HTS2500. All the lights stay on unless one pushes the power botton on the power center. Then, only the lights that go to the timed outlets go off. (The foregoing is from memory--hope it's right. I never turn mine off.)

mOOn, As you await Artto's reply, consider: I have a $40 RS digital. The RS model is recommended by many (including SVS, and folks on this board and other boards). It may be inaccurate, but as long as it is consistently inaccurate, I don't see a problem. Plus, as I was looking for a meter, I found many on eBay, and the RS was the only meter within my price range--the really good ones are really expensive. Most seem to prefer the analog meter to the digital--quicker to react, I think. However, I have no trouble setting levels with my digital. A meter may surprise you how good (or bad) your ears are. Then too, I'm not sure I want all speakers at exactly the same level, as is consistently recommended. My ear "wants" the surrounds a bit higher, in which case, I might as well sell my meter.

SVS told me the PB2-ISD requires 3 - 6 inches clearance on the rear.

---------------- On 9/19/2003 7:25:56 AM odwchris wrote: I currently am just using standard cable TV. I was ready to go digital until my neighbor said his home theater speakers did not work with the digital. By looking at his set up it should work. He claims the cable company told him to just use his TV speakers. Any truth to that line? ---------------- Not all cable audio signals are digital. My digital cable box has a digital coax connection for digital audio, but RCA/composite connections are also necessary to carry non-digital audio signals. So, both the digital coax and the RCA run to the receiver/pre-amp.

Not sure I completely understand the situation, but . . . . My digital cable box connects to my receiver via the following: A digital audio cable (orange), two RCA/composite cables (red and white), and an s-video cable. The orange carries a digital signal when it is available, and the red/white carry an analog signal when a digitial signal isn't available. The s-video carries the picture. From the receiver to the tv, I run only an s-video cable for cable tv (I have a component cable for dvd). I have no audio cables from the receiver to the tv, as I don't listen to sound via my tv speakers--I use my HT speakers. If you want tv-speaker audio, you need to connect the tv and the receive via RCA cables. The hookup part of HT is difficult. Hope the above helps.

I plugged two, 6 inch long "Y" cables into the cable box (which is fed by coax), and then ran composite cables about 3 feet up to my PS pre and 3 feet down to my HT pre. I also have a digital coax cable from the cable box to the HT pre. The PS pre has no digital coax connection. Mike

I switched my Yamaha integrated amp for a Parasound HCA 1000 amp and Parasound P/HP 850 pre-amp. This equipment powers a second zone of speakers. Since I want this equipment to work independently of my HT, I have split the cable audio out and I run RCA connections to both my HT pre-amp and my stereo pre-amp. With my old Yamaha, I didn't have noticeable signal loss--the sound was adequate. With the Parasound gear, I can hear a drop in audio quality immediately when I plug the RCA cables into my HT amp (the HT amp is not on). I guess PS is just more critical of what it has to work with. Previously, the cable guy said our signal was strong, and that we didn't need a signal booster(the run of cable from the street to the house is over 300 feet). Now, I am wondering if a booster, or something else, might help. I am about to pull the PS and reinstall my old Yamaha. Any ideas? TIA for any input.

I am using 2 12 ft. lengths of Radio Shack Gold Component cables, connected by Radio Shack Gold connectors, and my DVD image is terrific. My total cost was about $90.

I have an SW-10. New price was about $750 (I think--I got my used), and there are several on eBay right now for about $150. Check the specfications on the Classic tab of the Klipsch main page. As for "can't tolerate the .1," I have used mine with good results for over 2 years as part of our HT. It will not get the lows on soundtracks, but it does fine if you don't turn the level up too high. I've never had a gound loop or other hum from my sub. It does not have two woofers--the "speaker" on the back is a passive radiator (subs are ported in some fashion--a passive speaker, a tube, etc.). You can run your speaker wire from the receiver/amp through the sub (see the labels--"From amp," "To speakers"), but I don't. You'll need a "Y" cable to go from the single RCA LFE out on your receiver to the L and R input RCA input jacks on the back of the sub.

Not sure in which forum to post this, but it seems more two-channel than anything else. For a stereo set-up, I have a Parasound 1000 amp and 850 pre-amp. Is there a safe way to integrate a powered sub into this arrangement? My manuals and the Parasound web site are silent. I have written PS to no avail. My belief is that I can hook the amp to the pre-amp via the "Direct" connection on the pre-amp. That would leave the "Normal" connection on the pre-amp for the sub. However, I didn't want to try this without adult supervision. TIA for any info.

The chroma bug affects dvd players. I'm not an expert, and haven't identified it on anything I have played, but there is LOTS of talk about what it is and what manufacturers are doing (or not doing) to fix it. See avsformus.com, hometheatreforum, secretsofhometheatre, et al. for all the details. Hope I haven't misled you.

Chroma bug?

In another thread, someone mentioned good prices at accessories4less. They have a 12 meter s-video, which is more than long enough, for $60, $40 less than I paid for my 8 meter Monster Cable 2 years ago. Anyone heard of the brand (British, I think) IXOS? Connectors run from $7 (for AR) to $8 (for Monster), and another 1 meter length of Monster cable to add to what I have is $25 from Crutchfield. Still, if the IXOS is any good, it might be worth twice the money for one run of cable. Thanks, you guys, for the help. No one where I live can talk-the-talk like the folks on this forum.

My tv-to-receiver connection for tv and vcr is via a 25 foot s-video cable (I use composite for dvd). I'll need about 3 feet additional length when I rearrange my "stack." Can I join 2 s-video cables to get the required length without suffering appreciable signal loss? Or, should I bite the bullet and spend huge to get one longer cable?

I am no expert, but I have been down the same road you are traveling. You ABSOLUTELY must have a selector or individual volume controls that "impedance match," or you will overload and damage your amp/receiver. The RS box lets you "select" up to 4 pairs of speakers, but will it let you run all at once without reducing the impedance? I doubt it. Niles makes great products, but the $100 price sounds low for an impedance protection switch. Years ago, I paid $105 for a 3-pair, impedance protection box from ADCOM. Niles makes a box that works for 6 pairs, and it is around $300 (see the Crutchfield catalog on-line). Russound also makes a box. Whole-house audio has become a big deal and many companies are making products. I have 7 pairs of speakers around the house, and couldn't go with a ready-made box. I am using individual volume controls from Paradigm that have impedance protection. The controls are adjustable for how many pairs of speakers are connected--I think you can use up to 12 pairs. I have all 7 mounted in a panel with the rest of my gear, but you can put a control right by each set of speakers. Until I switched to a receiver that had no "B" connections, I ran my HT through A and my extras through the ADCOM box hooked to B on the receiver. Whether you can run both A and B at the same time would, I believe, depend on your receiver--check your manual.