hwatkins

---------------- On 5/24/2005 3:45:48 PM seti wrote: ---------------- On 5/20/2005 11:36:29 PM scriven wrote: Are Horns the Answer? Yes! And I don't much care what the question is. ---------------- Are Horns the Answer? 42 Hmm that could work just as well..... ---------------- LOL big time. So, just to finish the thought "What is the Question?"

Only if paying by check, mate.

I am on the same bandwagon as everyone else here. A quick caution if you use a sealed, front ported or front horn bass cabinet - you need to try and 'float' the cabinet. That is to say you may not want it to be directly attached to the wall. I have done that and I have gotten varing degrees of not so good results. There seems to be some sort of resonance issue that the box movement can impart to the wall. Making a shelf for support and keeping the wall boards out of direct contact gives you a speaker that sounds just as intended.

Aah - Booker's - kind of like 'Nair' for cilica in the throat.....

Be patient - be sure to contact SVS if suggestions here don't work. With the movies mentioned you should get a solid and clearly heard performance out of the 20-39. my 20-39 can rattle and can take a clearly strong fill path for music. I would imagine you will find the right mix and become a reference for SVS.

And the final view from what I call the 'sweet spot'

A view from inside of where the left speaker is mounted.

This is the inside of the cabinet with the reciever and CD player. I added three new shelves tonight and we filled it with towels and outdoor stuff.

This is the new tile countertop - the easiest part of the project.

This is a group of pics with a set of cabinets and countertop I added to the porch over the last couple of weeks. I put an extra reciever and a cd player I was able to repair in the cabinet and have them attached to a couple of SA2s. Not a classic two channel set up, but what the hey, it is two speakers after all. As to the SA2s - a pretty darn impressive outside speaker. Couple with the interior of the porch enhancing the LF - I couldn't be more pleased. These were a very good value and a reasonable sound. This first picture is of the new cabinets.

Other than some comment regarding wet kisses, I am not aware of any comment Thebes has made regarding Craig. Can anyone elaborate?

---------------- On 5/4/2005 2:08:12 PM fini wrote: Yeah, they probably weren't the real McCoy... ---------------- Making me laugh out loud again Fini--- Thank goodness you have that avatar with you at the piano to sober me up.....

---------------- On 5/4/2005 5:32:04 PM CaptnBob wrote: I heard a mahogany pair many years ago. My impression was "stupendous, rather than realistic." The bass was pretty solid, but things got more and more ragged the higher you went. Not quite classic "West Coast Screech-Boom" but heading in that direction. As for the early ones, there's a reason why JBL added the 075s. It reminded me of what Rudy Bozak said about the Klipschorn - "A remarkable achievement, but I wouldn't want one in my living room." ---------------- As I got near the end of this I was preparing to give my appraisal, since there seemed to be few that have heard original Hartsfields. The Cptn has it close to my memory of the listen. A very enjoyable experience - I have always been less of a fan of the sound from the vintage JBL lens than others and that is probably my issue with the HF. The bass is definitly a bit more 'beamed' (my own interpretation) than the KHorn (I also think the Xover was higher and contributed to this as well). This does make the room a much more interesting consideration if you want to get the full flavor of the sound. All in all - up there with the KHorn in some respects (they were darn pretty pieces) but not really close to stealing my ear....

Under $200 - build your own. Do a google for Pi Speakers and there are a couple of very neat kits - I have made the 2 Pi and my daughter really likes them (as did I). All told I put about $135 in them and would call them well worth much more.

---------------- On 4/22/2005 3:32:55 PM nuclearay wrote: So THAT's where the voices in my head are coming from. ---------------- Not if the voices have names like mine do...

---------------- On 4/12/2005 7:43:24 AM Colin wrote: So the questions are: What is the single BEST thing I can do to increase horsepower on my little pick-up? What is the single CHEAPEST thing I can do to increase horsepower on my little pick-up? ---------------- Hard to answer Colin not knowing the specs on your vehicle. Some generalizations though. Many vehicles have a cold air feed to the engine that is larger than the cold air intake. If you let more cold air in you should (emphasis on should) get more HP. Sometimes you can also reroute the intake to a lower position to get 'colder' air. Most vehicles come with a one size fits all exhaust system. You can look at a legal version of a new exhaust that doesn't create as much back pressure and get more HP. Everything eles starts to get into bigger bucks. If the Cold Air intake is a solvable issue it is generally the least expensive and most noticable change. The exhaust can get a bit more expensive and doesn't have the same 'butt dyno' effect.

---------------- On 4/11/2005 10:25:48 PM Olorin wrote: I'll try the 3500+ idea. The thing is so torquey I really try to keep it low (except when I'm romping), again in the interest of economy. Any particular reason you liked to run it high? O ---------------- On my 2.8 that seemed to be the best torque/speed combination that generally applied to 1 - 4 gear. Now mine was hopped up a bit in both torque and HP so your experience may vary. What this means is that for the best twisty driving at speed I would not shift up until above 3500 and I would not shift down unless I was sure that I would remain above 3500. Much of this was due to the cold air intake change, but it was a great torque band for speed. With a car that can turn 85+mph fairly easy in third gear there is lots of opportunity to take corners at speed and be very grippy. Try the over 3500 rule after you get comfortable with the car. I bet you will be wearing the grin for a week. Two warnings about the car - It is not as sloppy as it feels - the darn seats let you slide so much you think that it is the car yawing (many folks have gone to 5 point harnesses to alleviate that feeling). Also - the speedometers are notoriously wrong - your real speed is something less than the speedo tells you. It is not linear, as your speedometer reads a higher speed the difference between real speed is greater. In my car I had the opportunity to set cruise on 100 mph on an oval tral and the timed speed was closer to 95 mph. It is also not consistent between vehicles - go figure.

---------------- On 4/11/2005 6:54:47 PM sfogg wrote: Henry, Sorry to hear you sold the Z3, glad you had a lot of fun with it though. How many miles did you have on it when you sold it? How do you like the 330? My father has one but not a convertible. Very nice car but the electronic throttle on it drove me nuts from the lag right at takeoff. A Shark Injector helped that. We also put a 3.38 rear end in it (stock 2.93) which made a big difference in performance. It pulled away from other 330s really easily after the diff.. he loved that mod. The E46s are nice cars all around IMO. "Have SFogg show you his hopped up, turboed baby." Nahh... no turbo... supercharged. Shawn P.S. With all this Z3 talk I'm getting confused on which board I'm on. ---------------- Turbo/supercharged - What's the diff? The Z3 had 55,000 miles. It was still darned pretty and reasonably peppy (actually I made the guy wait a day so I could run it hard one last time). It went to the first looker on the only 65 degree day in January for my asking price. On the 330 I too get a bit irritated with the lag. Being for my wife's daily it is automatic and it doesn't seem to be as noticable when I take it to manual. I will try the Shark injectors. The rear end will stay as is for now - that is a bit far for me to go. It is black and with the hardtop it is uniquely pretty. We have a hardtop hoist and the hardtop is now winched to the ceiling of the garage. With the top down it is definitely not as noisy as the Z3 and it is a bit more rigid as you would expect. It is still a bit sloppy when you compare it to the coupe, but that was expected. All in all we are pleased and we now have a couple of cars that can commute rather easily. OK - back to audio stuff for a bit. This was kind of like old times. BTW - you had the link to Rachel's site - is she still around with her Z3? Esmirelda was my car's twin...

---------------- On 4/11/2005 3:52:07 PM Olorin wrote: Bummer about your Z3, Rich, though you came out okay and that's what matters. My wife and I just bought a Z3 for her to use as her daily driver and our getaway car. It's a 98 with the 2.8, 5 speed, and the hard top for times when the softie won't be coming down for a while. It is a FUN little car. Me, I love the torque of the straight six. That thing has power on demand at any RPM from 1600 to the red line. ---------------- Yo Olorin - I sold my 97 2.8 Z3 in January after 7+ years. It was my escape car. Shawn Fogg can help you with an air intake if you want a bit more kick and a throatier sound. I put a new cold air intake, freer flowing exhaust and had the chip reprogrammed to up the redline, match higher octane gas and remoce the top speed limiter. Added several suspension helpers, bigger wheels and put a bit more rubber on the ground. It was a very nice car to drive in the twisties at reasonably insane speed. My advice - Whenever possible drive it above 3500 rpm....Have SFogg show you his hopped up, turboed baby. Replaced with a 330 CI converatble with a hardtop for my lovely wife's daily driver. It will be missed.

My two cents - if you want the real skinny SFogg is one of the best (and maybe the best on an audio board) regarding automobile specs and how changes can be made. We first met on a BMW board and the guy is pretty much dead on regarding tweaks and modifications to engines. So here goes my comments--- Torque curves give you the best sense of what the car 'feels' like. If the torque rises rapidly at the lower RPMs you will feel a bit of slam off the line. Most American and rear wheel drive performance vehicles are known for a sharply rising torque as you increase RPMs to a fairly early plateau (not always true - a generalization). Many of the Pacific rim engines have a more gradual torque curve and a much higher redline. HP is a measure of energy that is most informative if measured at the driving wheel(s) since this will not have any of the losses that occur when transferring the energy from the engine to the road. Unfortunately no maunfacturer will provide that measurement. A seat of the pants review would be HP per pound if you are interested in HP to help you make a decision. Higher torque at lower RPM = either vehicle used for towing loads or a 'butt squatter' off the line performance car. Higher torque at higher RPM = either a casual highway performer or an Indy race car. There is no good or bad here, just different feel when driving or different purposes. Two distinctly different torque curve cars - BMW Z3 and Honda S2000 are both equally fun to drive. Off the line in the Z3 you pop the clutch at 1500 - 2000 rpm, with the S2000 you may do so above 2500 rpm. I recommend you let your butt tell you which you like best.

Yep - to all the above. If you must use a circular saw you will have to make sure both pieces are stable and supported, especially near the cut, so there will not be any binding. MDF can be very nasty stuff on two levels - the weight causes binds and the dust is extraordinarily fine and makes its way in to every body orifice imaginable. If at all possible cut the stuff outdoors (on a windy day is best) and always wear a mask of some sort.

Excellent and beautiful. Thanks for the detail and pics. Years of enjoyment are sure to follow.

---------------- On 4/1/2005 10:59:49 AM tigerwoodKhorns wrote: Where can you buy the JBL tweeter? Please post some links. How does this tweeter compare to the beyma tweeter that Al uses? Chris ---------------- Ebay is a reasonable place to shop for the 2404. You can also give Jammin Jersey a try. Expect to pay from $90 to $150 each used. I am not sure what full retail is for these. Jamming Jersey listings are here: http://www.jamminjersey.com/speakers.php?prod=jblcomp As to the Beyma - AL and I had a discussion on that over at the Lansing Heritage board. I think that our descriptions of how our ears heard the speakers that the are fairly similar in sound. I think the Beyma stretches the upper freqs a bit with reasonable SPL - which is generally a good thing. I am using the 2404 in my JBL cornwall like project and I have nothing but kudos for the unit. Several have used this tweeter in lieu of the K77 and I can hear why.

Time for a good sales guy story - Over Christmas visited a B&O shop. We plopped in their $16,000 listening room. As expected, quite unimpressed - I prefered Heresy quite honestly. Salesman asked what we normally listened to. Mentioned Klipsch as a favorite and he said 'If you like horns I doubt B&O has anything to change your mind.'. It was refreshing... As to horns and other - very few folks will move from loving horns back to cones. Some do but it is a small group. I have heard some very good cones (all were three or four ways) that tickled my fancy, but the electronics tab was an added killer to the over all price/performance. Lower, clean power and good horns still are the best price performance to my ear.

---------------- On 3/18/2005 1:26:49 PM DeanG wrote: No one has done a google search on Jobel yet? Man, you guys are in sadder shape than I thought. Quia Jobel est, sanctus erit vobis, agri comedetis fructum. ---------------- No search needed if I get your meaning. Must not be any orthodox or native language jews around here.... So is it going to be a curved horn? You could make a huge subwoofer shaped like a football helmet, with the 'jobel' horns on each side, paint it blue and gold and sell it for $15,000 in St. Louis....