Alexander

Enjoy gents

Have any of you ever notice that many AVR's will advertise say “100wpc” on a 7 channel receiver but if you were to look at the listed max total rated power consumed you would see something like 560 watts. In this example that really means the most power per channel would only be the total watts consumed divided by the number of channels. So 80w is the max all channels driven, and that is assuming the receiver itself doesn't use any power to run.

And only pure copper wire, no CCA (copper clad aluminum)

As a reference, I live in a totally smoke free home and was always in A/C, also the speakers were always un-plugged from the 120v outlet when not in use. The amps I ran with them had an advertised rating of handling a 1ohm load (Denon poa-4400 mono blocks).

Back in ~1996-7 I bought ML Aerius, upgraded to SL2's and finally reQuest's. As mentioned they are very different than a conventional speaker. And yes they are very hard on amps. At the time I got these the sales rep told me that these things can have impedance swings as low as 2 ohms. Just to give you an example of there life span & cost - I had needed to replace the reQuest panels after ~12 years and by the time I finally did in 2012 they cost just over $1000 for the pair. You may want to contact ML on what a new set of panels would cost. IMHO the price is too high for his/her Aerius and having moved up in the models both the SL2's & reQuest's both were head and shoulders better than the Aerius. But by all means if given the opportunity to hear even an entry level “stat's” then go for it. You never know, you might get the bug for something like these.

Thank you for taking the time to reply. Guess it is time to move on to more important things, maybe sometime down the road we will re visit this. Have an antenna to put back up for 80/40/20 & 10 meters.

Was that really necessary? My post was directed to the question by the OP.

Here is one: 'ESR adds DC resistance – effecting the charge/discharge rate in the circuit they are in. In other words how fast they react to change in frequency. The greater the ESR the slower the cap responds.

Have done impedance sweeps on many drivers and they never seem to be exactly the same within the same model.

Thanks gents, guess we will give the wood glue & toothpick method a go. As they say - start with the simplest solution first. The t nuts sound like a great way to go, just more work than may be necessary. I do have a tenancy to want to over engineering stuff that really isn't needed to be.

sdmf74 , what was the outcome of your klf-30 xover problem? Did re flowing the solder joints fix it?

Here are a few threads about updates/mods that were found in a quick search. Some of the parts used are hard to find at the moment, most liking to the virus one would suspect. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/174507-ultimate-klf30-upgrades/&tab=comments#comment-2234619 https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/188844-klf-20-with-daveas-lmahl-tweeters/&tab=comments#comment-2452927 https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/179915-starting-new-klf-30-crossover-build-other-upgrades/&tab=comments#comment-2319247

Something that was an oddity was when we went to upgrade the k52h mid drivers to a55g's one of the OEM drivers was not screwed all the way on the horn. It was about 1 ½ turns from snug and that meant the gasket was loose. This might explain the slight difference in sound compared to the second klf-30.

Like the idea of t-nuts, what size are you using? Is there enough margin as to not have them hang over the edges?

Would like to replace the stock binding posts on my forte II's, KLF's & T5000's to something better. What have any of you gone to that was as close to a direct replacement as possible? They most certainly do not need to be anything fancy. Just would like to replace the el-cheapo plastic nut type and hopefully still fit under a factory crossover PCB.

What methods have any of you used to address soft driver mounting screw holes? Been revisiting the forte II's and T5000's I got a few years ago (from same owner) and inherited many lose screw holes.

Here are the two oem k79k tweeters. Also a note that when I had them apart for checking polarity there was no induction of ferrofluid in either one. I also tested a pair of k75k's with Ti's and they were identical to each other of course shown in the last pic. Are the two k79's close enough? .

Well, just a little white lie – it has actually happen before, just not with me.

This is the $64,000 question. Provided the forte III horn's are not too expensive and of course available some of us want to find out.

You gents may very well be right but am willing to try. Here is what was in the message that was sent to Klipsch. I currently have a pair of klf-30's and in shipping one of the mid range horns snapped off at the driver. I have read on the Klipsch forum that the forte III mid horn is virtually a drop-in replacement. If so are they available and if so what is the price for two of these? Granted this is not actually my case but have heard of such cases have happened in the past.

Thank you

Is there a schematic posted somewhere on the board? Would love to look at it.

As was posted elsewhere an query to Klipsch for a forte III horn was sent in and this is what came back from them. Now maybe I am wrong but I think this might be a diaphragm kit and not the horn itself? We will give this another go at it in a few days

InMotionGraphics those frames are very nice and much better than I would had ever thought of making myself. Being that wood working is not going to happen for me and my lack of that skill set I was looking at something like this: https://www.atsacoustics.com/page--Acoustic-Panels-Custom-Colors--colors.html

I believe it is 825Hz