Alexander

deang should be able to supply the schematic if he had built yours and no longer building for others, then one would be able to build a new set of x-overs from scratch if needed

T-5000/4000 schematic shows : 2.5mh + 47uf, 1.0uf & 2 x 1.5uf + .16uf 　 Markings & or actual measurements : 2.04 & 2.15mh + (68uf) 72.4/76.8uf , (1.25uf) 1.23/1.28uf, typical HF values Drivers are k75k, k53k, k23k & kd13k (passive radiator) (Tangent 5000 & Forte I use same drivers) no markings of any kind on the autotransformer's other than typical 0, 1 & 2 - will re-use 　 Will be building an all new x over from scratch and my gut tells me to just follow what was actually on the original boards just tighten up specs, curious as some of you might consider anything different.

Finally actually pulled the x-overs out and am finding there are 68uf compared to the 47uf listed along with the 1.25uf in place of 1.0uf list originally in the schematic. These are still OEM BTW. Haven't checked large inductor yet to see if it is also different.

Thanks WMcD for your reply, the reason for my question is that I will be building a new OEM/Crites style x over for my t-5000's but if I were to want to try and sell them at some point down the road there would be virtually no market. On the other hand if I were to build Forte I x overs I would have a better chance of turning them. Hench the comparison of the two x overs as to how similar they are to each other.

Looking at both the Forte I and T-5000's I see that they both share both the K-75 & K-53 drivers. Also the Forte I k-23 and T-5000 k-28 share the same replacement driver. So this brings me to the point that the two speakers other than the difference in cabinet volume they are essentially the same. So here is the question, the two schematics are the same other than the Forte I a 40 ohm resister and 3mh inductor and the T-5000 has no resistor and a 2.5mh inductor. I understand the resistor but what is the actual difference created with the two different inductor values?

Someone asked what gauge wire was used, the input wires from the terminal cup posts is 14ga and all the stock 18ga driver wires was upped to 16ga

Not a stupid question, that is how we all learn. You will need to measure any component out of circuit.

Are you measuring the caps in circuit?

Thanks djk for the link, picked up a LCR for about $20. Sure it isn't as accurate as the $100+ meters but I think it will do the job.

Yes, thank you for the link

Anyone?

If it isn't too much to ask would you give us a quick primer on level of importance in measuring caps? Or even a link(s) if I am asking too much? The LCR I got did include ESR and if I remember they were rather low but what are good,bad ranges?

sorry jimjimbo, we used an LCR (inductor, capacitor & resister) meter

Sure did and they tested fine though do not know the stainless material they were made of.

Sorry, yes non polarized electrolytic caps. The NPE caps are 18uf 10% @100v. they measured a bit over 20uf, just outside of spec., but my tester could be a little off too as it has 2% variance .