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Alexander

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Alexander last won the day on August 15 2020

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About Alexander

  • Birthday 08/21/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seminole, FL
  • Interests
    Audio 2 channel & HT, Ham radio, Computers
  • My System
    Klipsch KLF-30's, forte II's, KLF-C7, Tangent T-5000's, KG-4.5's & 1975 LaScala's
    JBL ES-90's, ES-25C, ES-250P
    Denon DAP-2500, POA-4400's, DRA-1025R, DRA-825R , DCD-2560, AVR-991,AVR-X3200W
    Emotiva XPA-1's, XSP-1, XDA-2, ERC-2 - all w/1st gen silver trim

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  1. 5,000 miles or around every 20 years, which ever comes first I found a metric crescent wrench speeds up the job nicely
  2. Picked up a pair of klf-30's that had been stored for a good number of years. After a few weeks of playing the highs were way too harsh. So all xover caps were replaced and that took care of the problem. Shortly after that I put in Crites Ti's as well as cleaning out/replaced the old ferro fluid with a kit from PE. This calmed/smoothed things out even further and have stayed with this setup for the last 4 years or so.
  3. Are you comparing those to the OEM “yellow” polyester caps?
  4. On the chance you still have the baskets you could have them re coned here: https://reconingspeakers.com/ I had them do my pair of f2's and they looked exactly like the originals.
  5. You may have already done this but with a light source shine the light from the inside out to check. In my case there was an ample bead of glue applied on the motor board but it did not make contact with the cabinet walls. So I used the Gorilla original formula expanding glue on all seams since I was in there.
  6. On a pair of T-5000's the motorboard had contact with the cabinets ~ 10-15%, only at the four mounting blocks. I resealed the entire cabinets and this made quite a noticeable difference in bass.
  7. Captain obvious here – has he tried different sources? But on the other had my set of KLF-30's developed this when I started to up the volume past say low background music levels. I chased down all my gear to find I had issues with the xovers. Chose to leave the OEM xo's intact and built a set of OEM based xovers which solved the problem.
  8. I would reconsider attempting to remove anything off the OEM PCB other than the autotransformers & caps*. There is a good chance some parts will be damaged beyond repair. The added cost of new inductors is worth the assurance that the OEM xovers are still on hand if need be. As for wire gauge, 16awg pure copper wire, no CCA (coper clad aluminum) would be fine JMO. * You are most likely not wanting to re-use these though.
  9. Thanks again saves me $67 not needing the two 3uF caps.
  10. Wow, thanks Deang for the tip. And you meantiond that going to the a55g 1st gen over the k55v would not need any type of changes.
  11. In the past I have tried bi-wiring many different speakers & wire combos. And IMHO unless you are using a wire gauge that is too small for your wire load/run it made no difference what so ever. Now if you were to bi-amp we are talking about another thing all together.
  12. I just priced the PPT Theta caps at PE for the AA xover. Depending on how you “make up” the values for the 13uf cap it came out to be ~$300 for a complete set. I am considering going this route for a pair of 1975 LS along with 3636's and better gauge/quality inductors.
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