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About Alexander

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  • Birthday 08/21/57

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  • My System
    Klipsch Forte II"s re-cap & Crites TI, KLF-C7 re-cap, Tangent T-5000 - stock
    JBL ES-90's, ES-25C, ES-250P, ES-20's
    Denon DAP-2500, POA-4400's, DRA-1025R, DRA-825R , DCD-2560, AVR-991
    Emotiva XPA-1's, XSP-1, XDA-2, ERC-2

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  1. Klipsch speaker Impedance curves

    k75k, k53k & k28k individual impedance plots. Note: k28k is in factory installed configuration in this test and stock diaphragms used to both tweeter and mid.. Will add k75k with ti diaphragm, k61k and k25k in the next few weeks.
  2. Help Interpreting impedance plots

    Here are a few things I understand, but very rusty: In pure reactance (X) a cap will have current leading voltage by 90* and inductance has voltage leading current by the opposite 90* so this is why we have the phase shifts in a RC,RL or LCR x-over. Efficiency is reduced with a phase shift (70.7%?).
  3. Help Interpreting impedance plots

    Thanks mboxler, I have read that thread and it has helped, I did build the forte ii version of that x-over and will be updating some of the components that were used in the first build next
  4. I know this is a long shot but you never know. Looking for a set of grills or even just the frames for Tangent 5000's. Or maybe plans to make frames would also work if necessary. Anyone?
  5. Help Interpreting impedance plots

    Here is one from a forte II same deal as above, new parts using stock schematic and values.
  6. Would like to learn some of the basics in reading the data of a impedance plot like this one to consider improving on a xover. This one is from a T5000 with updated parts still using the stock schematic values.
  7. How to capture DATS screen for posting

    Thanks gents, WMcD - embarrassed that I had not thought of that The Snipping Tool is perfect. Thanks everyone again.
  8. Want to be able capture the screen image(s) on the DATS program being used to plot the impedance curves of a few Klipsch speakers so they could be posted here for review. The format DATS saves them to is not recognized by any of the current software on my Win7 PC , any help on this?
  9. Got to finish up one speaker. Geoff, the motor board was like you found on yours. It looked like the brace blocks were doing the bulk of the work holding it in place. The seams were extremely narrow - say the thickness of a piece of paper but they were there none the less. Gorilla white glue was used, it is very runny so the cabinet was tilted letting gravity do the work. It did take longer this way but it is what was on hand. Tried hot glue but just could not do the job the way I wanted it to be done.
  10. Thank you Geoff for the kind words
  11. The klipsch RF-10

    You will be just fine with that avr-x2300w, most damage to speakers is done by being under powered (clipping) than too much power. Just don't use anything less than 16 gauge wire for hook-ups & for long runs step up the gauge - 14 gauge has always been my minimum. Also avoid "CCW" copper clad wire too. My sig below has a few good sources for wire
  12. Here are the xovers finished, all hardware was either brass or stainless. Maybe we can have them mounted & wired before the end of this weekend.
  13. Geoff, I have the same xovers and the one missing screw as you have. Your woofer is a 4 ohm k28k, the replacement driver is also shared with the k23k & k25k of the Forte I/II family. I will put a light in the cabinets to look for "leaks" - hadn't thought of that . In stock form they sound very good and as you mentioned they are very similar to the Forte II's - a great speaker for less than Forte's if you can find them and do not mind the size. Looking forward to putting the upgraded xovers in and see how they sound, most of the original components were off spec by well over 10%
  14. thank you for the links
  15. Any one(s) that you might point me to that is better and/or easier than others?