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About Alexander

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  • Birthday 08/21/57

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    Klipsch Forte II"s re-cap & Crites TI, KLF-C7 re-cap, Tangent T-5000 - stock
    JBL ES-90's, ES-25C, ES-250P, ES-20's
    Denon DAP-2500, POA-4400's, DRA-1025R, DRA-825R , DCD-2560, AVR-991
    Emotiva XPA-1's, XSP-1, XDA-2, ERC-2

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  1. Thanks Deang for the kind words, I used regular RTV for the coils just to get things tested. Will strap them down per your suggestion after I know I didn't goof anything up.
  2. They may not be pretty but they are done.
  3. Thank you for the video, looks simple enough It is done, putting everything together for the final time and will give them a go tomorrow.
  4. Avatar I believe for me
  5. Well we are as far as we can go on this project until we get the solder for the solder pot! Hope tomorrow will be the day it shows up, if so we should be trying these xo's by the weekend.
  6. Here is the pic I promised you. The #14 red & black wire in the center are from the binding posts, #16 red & black are the woofer, #16 yellow & black are for the mid and finally the green & black are to the tweeter.
  7. That is why I did it this way on my project.
  8. Thanks, and will check out the thread - always willing to learn...
  9. Deang wrote: On many of those connections, it doesn't look like you have enough room to put a clip/heat sink between your part and your ring tongue. I don't understand the point of crimping and soldering, yet stacking the ring tongues together and screwing them down - which will allow air and moisture to creep in (you strive for a gas-less connection, but really won't have a gas-less connection). Just random thoughts from the peanut gallery - sorry! Thanks Dean for your input, you are way out of league it is not even funny. The few resistors are too short as you pointed out but were measured before and after with no change in values. All of the remaining components have enough to clip on a heat sink and was used. Curious how much free oxygen & moisture is in a non ported enclosure (Forte II)? Suppose one could seal the terminals once assembled to address that possibility. The method chosen was so it could be modular, with any single component being able to be replaced for future evaluation since the budget dictated using things like Solen caps, Lynk resistors and the like. I did go with stainless steel hardware though. Note: Deang I copied your post from jimjimbo's thread as to not hijack it.
  10. Both boards are fitted, now to take them apart and solder all the crimps. Sure hope the bar solder shows up soon so we can tin the coils and finish this project. These things are looking better than I had thought but by no means a work of art compared to the stuff ALK has put out.
  11. I used regular #6 1.25" machine screws for a 3/4" board as you see in my picture. I got them at Lowe's btw.
  12. Here is one board mostly fitted, just need to do the soldering. Still waiting on some bar solder for the solder pot. And yes I see I have wires # 2 & 5 reversed on the autotransformer.
  13. None are needed, we will have a pic put up to show how it all is connected when finished.