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Alexander

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Everything posted by Alexander

  1. You may have already done this but with a light source shine the light from the inside out to check. In my case there was an ample bead of glue applied on the motor board but it did not make contact with the cabinet walls. So I used the Gorilla original formula expanding glue on all seams since I was in there.
  2. On a pair of T-5000's the motorboard had contact with the cabinets ~ 10-15%, only at the four mounting blocks. I resealed the entire cabinets and this made quite a noticeable difference in bass.
  3. Captain obvious here – has he tried different sources? But on the other had my set of KLF-30's developed this when I started to up the volume past say low background music levels. I chased down all my gear to find I had issues with the xovers. Chose to leave the OEM xo's intact and built a set of OEM based xovers which solved the problem.
  4. I would reconsider attempting to remove anything off the OEM PCB other than the autotransformers & caps*. There is a good chance some parts will be damaged beyond repair. The added cost of new inductors is worth the assurance that the OEM xovers are still on hand if need be. As for wire gauge, 16awg pure copper wire, no CCA (coper clad aluminum) would be fine JMO. * You are most likely not wanting to re-use these though.
  5. Thanks again saves me $67 not needing the two 3uF caps.
  6. Wow, thanks Deang for the tip. And you meantiond that going to the a55g 1st gen over the k55v would not need any type of changes.
  7. In the past I have tried bi-wiring many different speakers & wire combos. And IMHO unless you are using a wire gauge that is too small for your wire load/run it made no difference what so ever. Now if you were to bi-amp we are talking about another thing all together.
  8. I just priced the PPT Theta caps at PE for the AA xover. Depending on how you “make up” the values for the 13uf cap it came out to be ~$300 for a complete set. I am considering going this route for a pair of 1975 LS along with 3636's and better gauge/quality inductors.
  9. Yea there are some folks that feel that way with any deviation from stock factory parts. When they were put into a set of KLF-30's it was clearly an upgrade from the OEM K52H drive it replaced.
  10. Thanks Deang, also was it you that mentioned that the PPT Theta cap leads were extremely fragial? Or was that a different cap?
  11. Thanks for all the replies I am a little confused based on what I have read in the past on this topic. What I saw seemed to suggest that you would have to make changes in the crossover when going between the K55V and the K55M (or vice versa). So I guess what I am asking is the A55G* more akin to the K55V than the K55M? Just trying to figure it all out so I don't have to open it up more than once if I can avoid it... *1st Gen
  12. Getting ready to change out the OEM k55v's with a55g's in a pair of 1975 LS. Would one need to adjust the 3636 autotransform from the stock -3db on the AA xover? And if so to what attenuation?
  13. Congrats, so glad to hear they were legit. Dust caps have no effect on the quality of sound, just aesthetics. So I would not knock yourself out if the looks are OK with you. So enjoy them for a bit and then look into replacing the caps in the xovers. They do not need to be anything special, just a set of Dayton would be a nice improvement with out a lot of cash outlay. Those OEM caps are over 40 years old.
  14. I hope you are right. Have you at least seen some pics. the ones in the ad are not what they claim to be selling.
  15. Something fishy about this. The pic shows forte III's or IV's. I live ~15 miles from their store and I will not go there to see them, But if someone does and they are real then it would be a great deal.
  16. I wanted to provide you with my two cents on something to be aware of/be on the lookout for. The original woofers were, I believe, K48k/e if I remember correctly. If you are looking at the speaker, make sure that you are checking the woofers to insure that they are the originals—they cannot be rebuilt and are not made any more. Per my knowledge there is not a “true” replacement drivers available. You'd need to look for some taken off another set of Chorus' if needed. Don't want to scare you away, but thought you should be aware of this because I'd hate for you to invest the money in a set of Chorus and it not be as expected.
  17. 14ga or better would be fine, be sure it is pure copper wire - do not get any CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire. You may have to look hard to make sure. If the wire is clearly cheaper than ones that state they are pure copper than it's most likely CCA. Another vote for Blue Jeans cable, that is what I use.
  18. Your ~$1000 budget should get you in the forte I/II or klf-20 maybe klf-30s range in most parts of the USA 48*. Chorus I/II's are heavy hitters in the bass department as well as the Cornwallis and expect to see more $$$ for them. If space is a concern the Chorus and even more so the Cornwalls are large speakers. * Deals do show up but you just have to be on the lookout and be ready to jump on them. As an example it took ~six months but got a set of forte II's for $400 and about the same amount of looking to find a mint set of klf-30's w/OEM boxes for $900.
  19. If you were to look at the xover PCB trace side you would find the green wire is attached to the same negative/ black wire trace going to the mid range driver. Which in-turn leads to the negative binding post on the cup.
  20. The KG series are nice but they were the entry level model line that Klipsch offered at that time. It would only make sence to look to the Heresy, forte, Cornwall/Chorus or KLF-20/30 models. If bass is important the Heresy are a bit shy in that area though. With your ~$1000 price point you should be able to find something nice with a bit of patience and perseverance.
  21. Are you happy with the way your system sounds? Is there something you feel is lacking? If not then there is absolutely noting wrong with what you have now.
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