Alexander

Thanks but was hoping for a DIY version like the Forte I to cut costs

Though neither are local to you they have been doing speaker repair for many years http://reconingspeakers.com/ http://www.simplyspeakers.com/

Here is an update, Called Klipsch today and they still have the k-1062-ev (k-1062-kv) driver in stock. Got one coming for $94 + tax & shipping.

Yes the drivers are 8 ohms wired in parallel Neither of the two centers mentioned are vented so in this case not a factor. Just trying to open up my options I guess, was told the k-1062-k was still available from Klipsch last year so I will give then a call Tuesday

Was there ever a Forte II version?

I realize this is an old post but......if you still have a good k-1062-k with or without the shielding cup would you be interested in selling it?

Would the k-1011-k(v) (Academy) driver be a viable option if replaced as a pair? Just trying to widen my search.

I have a single k-1062-kv 8" driver with a hurt voice coil, I know I could use a non "v" if available but they both seem to hard to come by. I checked with Speaker Exchange and they "might" be able to replace the voice coil alone but they need to see it first and if so it would be $75-$100. So my question is there a substitution that would work should the original couldn't be repaired?

thanks gents, I know caps can be like Coke & Pepsi - some like one over the other. But having never listened to anything other than stock I wanted to see where the Solen faired in the big picture. I got the Forte II's as a basket case if you will. Had to re cone the passives that looked like a foot went though them , xovers were pulled out, a project that never got finished. So I have put Crites Ti diaphragms and will swap out the caps that came with them before I put them all back together again.

When I bought my Forte II's and KLF-C7 they came with a bag of Solen caps in all the correct values for the speaks per the schematics posted here. So before I go to update all of the xovers should I consider using something else that might be clearly better?

moved

You may want to keep in mind that the mp3 format is a lossy one so "high end" gear would not be needed other than possible future upgrades in file types.

depending on your run a quality 10 or 12ga wire is all you would need. don't fall for the voodoo/black magic of big money for wire. jmho

Jeff, that is exactly right.

I initially planed to use a 9.5x12x.75 board to build each of my crossovers on. But started to wonder if it would be altering the designed volume of my Forte II's too much? The whole idea was to space out the components but truthfully they can all fit easily on half of that of 6x9.5. So what would be a realistic maximum of added volume without causing a negative impact of performance?

Thank you very much, PMeb back - money was sent. Tnanks again Adam for all your help.

Yes there are to be used in a pair of Forte II's

No one has stubbed their toe on these and want to get rid of them? Even a set of 3636's would do nicely.

thank you gents

Not sure where it came from, download it from this board in the crossover section

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ They offer all kinds of cables including speaker cables with locking banana plugs. You get a quality product with out the crazy price.

Anyone have an extra set of t7a/-10db autotransformers sitting around that you might want to unload cheap?.

I have noticed that the Forte II schematic crossover have phase dots used but most of the other model speakers crossovers do not. Should I observe them when building my crossover?

Pulled out the drivers as suggested found the tweeter markings but no "dot" was found on the mid but rather an "A" stamped in white so I guess that will be it's marking. Strange but the woofer has no markings at all so I will have to do the 9v battery test to sort that out..

My eye sight is very bad and I want to reconnect the wires from the xo to the drivers. My Forte II's are completely stock, does anyone recall the polarity of the tweet and mids orientation? In other words is the positive lead on the tweeter on top or bottom and the mid positive on the left or right? this is from the vantage point of facing to rear/ terminal cup in front of you with the passive radiator out.. hoping this was standardized at the factory.