Mlstrass

I use 10's/20's for the rear surrounds and currently a C-7 for the back center. When the new house is done I'll be going to 2 sets of 20's and move the 10's to the back center for pseudo 7.1. I say go for some big Legends back there if you have the room!!!

Contact Lance at this e-mail address as he's got a bunch he's selling. I picked up two last week......Mike lipman.ln@pg.com

As Dustin stated, the non-flared 6" ports are fine. NO port noise whatsover. During The Haunting in DTS this thing is pushing a ton of air, and still no noise, just the subs moving crazily and everything not nailed down rattling and vibrating. Just adds to the effects! Time to start making MDF dust

To me it's better to over-build than to later discover you don't have enough bass. One tempest & port in each end. MDF for the endcaps is 3 layers of 3/4". Like you said very little extra work as you're just duplicating the cuts for each end. In such a large enclosure the Tempests don't require very much power either.

I've removed the mirrors as I didn't care for them. I think that PVC would resonate is the issue that was discussed before. I thought someone on the other site made a small sub with a 10" driver to test it and had problems with is resonation. Not sure. Give it a shot with the PVC and let us know how it works. So did I sway you towards a dual Tempest sub?

Another thing to consider, the cardboard sonotube can be wrapped in a thin layer of metal/plastic/whatever and then painted....

PVC has been discussed on the HomeTheaterForum and I believe the consensus was that it will/could vibrate. I covered my sonosub in naughehyde and it looks good. If you want a truly smooth finish you could try drywall compound to fill in the grooves and sand it smooth before painting. Mine is a dual Tempest/dual port tuned to 17Hz. 480liters which is a 28" round tube by I think 54 1/2" long. Don't remember exactly. For a single Temmpest you could make a 240liter with a single 6" x 20" port, should give the same 17Hz tune. I'm using the Hypex HS500 amp which provide 250watts to each sub. This thing is unbelievable, rattles the drywall and makes your pants legs move. You will NOT be disappointed. I say build a dual Tempest just for the headroom, and/or no builder's remorse later on. If I can answer any more questions feel free to e-mail directly as I don't get on here all that often....Mike Mlstrass@Hewitt.com

Swerv, Take it easy there. I have been accused of being blind more than once, as I referee kids hockey and some coaches don't always like the calls I make. I just reread your post for the 3rd time, and this time the 53Hz did sink in, although you didn't mention it being a PEAK SPL, so I assumed sustained, my bad. Looks like I won't have to sell off the dual Tempest for the little Klipsch monster after-all

Swerv, I'm pretty sure you want the meter set to SLOW response, not fast. I'll check another forum and get back to you. Could make a huge difference in SPL I would imagine. My dual Tempest hit a little over 127dB @ 1 meter at 31.5Hz, which means it's about the same as your Klipsch PC sub. Find that kinda hard to believe....

I would go to the Adire website and check out their Tempest alignments, hard to go wrong with advice directly from the source. I have a ported dual Tempest sonosube that's tuned to 17Hz, but it's still very tight and accurate when playing music. The Tempest is around 97% as fast as the Shiva I believe, specs are on the Adire site. It's a great sub...

Sorry haven't been on in awhile. I'm located near Chicago. You really only need a few basic tools: jigsaw and router to do the job.

What's overkill??? I recently moved all my equipment to an unused 4'x8' closet!!

iwillwalk, Where are you located? I'd be willing to help you convert a '10 to a center channel if you're not too far. Let me know...Mike

Congrats on your trade! I auditioned a pair of 20's at Tweeter 2-3 summers ago and fell in love instantly with their sound. I'll second the "more Legends for surrounds". I use 20's & 10's for surrounds since my 3802 lets you run 2 pair of surrounds. Currently use a C-7 for back surround and will replace it with a pair of 10's when I move next Spring and also will have 2 pair of 20's for side surrounds. Gotta love them Legends!!

fire pinch, The 127dB was measured at 1 meter. Actual listening distance was around 122dB I believe. Room is around 15 x 22 x 8. I'm having a house built right which will have room in the basement for dedicated HT, so I plan on buying 2 more Tempests and doing an IB...hopefully even more SPL and even cleaner and hit you harder bass!

Here's a link if you want to see what it looks like. I removed the little mirrors as I didn't care for them. http://www.geocities.com/mlstrass/myhometheater.html

I can save you the trouble since my sub is the one Dustin mentioned. Specs came straight from Dan Wiggins of Adire and I couldn't be happier both HT and music wise. Plenty low during The Haunting DTS and great for techo/dance, but also blends nicely on instrumental/classical stuff. Here's a quote from Dan: "For serious output, I'd look at a 24" diameter tube, 72" long. Mount one Tempest and one vent in each end. For the vents, use 6" ID by 20"L pipe. Double-thick the endcaps (1.5" thick, assuming 3/4" thick stock) from void-free plywood (Baltic birch or marine grade plywood). Should end up with a net 480L, tuned to 17 Hz. Use some 4" high legs on the bottom to space the sub off the floor. Yes, it's big, but the sound should be dominating and effortless, with clean extension down to 15 Hz or so in-room. And SPL levels should be well above reference, in the 120 dB SPL range from 15 Hz and up. Definitely hit you in the chest/rattle the roof/annoy the neighbors type bass." I ended up going with a 28" diameter tube about 54 1/2" long. I measured a high of 127dB @ 35Hz. This thing WILL hit you in the chest and rattle stuff off the walls.....of my detached garage. Total to build was around $900, but that was with the Hypex HS500 amp which is over $500 alone. You could use a less costly Pro Audio amp and get in for under $800. I also ran SPL tests from around 16Hz up to 100Hz and it was very flat, so no EQ needed. JasNOOB, I can guarantee that this sub won't dissappoint you. It has NEVER failed to amaze anyone that's heard it. I was pretty skeptical myself, as I didn't see how a couple of $150 drivers and a cardboard tube could make any bass. Just ask my neighbor 2 houses away as it rattles her windows every time I crank it up.If/when you do decide to build I'd be happy to offer some tips that I learned along the way to make things easier. Good luck...Mike

I've also read that a 3dB increase is heard/preceived as being twice as loud..........

Rear, I was mearly responding to the negative tone in your post towards Dustin's suggestion. Your's is not the only "correct" opinion

What's so impractical about an IB sub??? Very easy to build and doesn't take up any space in the listening area. GREAT suggestion Dustin!!

You need to go over to the Hometheaterforum and post this in the DIY section. You'll get PLENTY of help over there!

Also might want to hang onto it for a back center if/when you make the move to 6.1. Mine sounds GREAT back there!!

ScooterDog, My only concern is the use of 3/4" Oak laminated ply vs MDF, Baltic Birch, or Marine Grade plywood. My understanding is that those are truly "dead" woods with no voids, etc... so I hope you don't run into resonance issues as that center will surely pump out some sound and move some air. I converted a KLF-10 last year and it was a HUGE improvement over the KLF-C7 which now serves duty as the rear center. Good luck......Mike

EB in NYC asked: Is there any recommended way to prevent that rumbling and low-end vibration from going through the floor??? Yep, and it's pretty simple..............buy a Bose system

They are AWESOME speakers. You can buy bucking magnets from Klispch to shield.