DizRotus

They'd have to sound way better than they look.

after seeing your build images for the Tuba, this will be like a walk in the park for you. Plus, since most lumber I get in Mich. is all made in Canada, I'd like to think it's a few dollars cheaper for you since the truck ride is shorter. Je pense que c"est des bonnes nouvelles pour toi. I haven't been to his house yet, but Dr. Earl Geddes lives about 15 minutes from me. He is a speaker home theater guru and is all about oblate spheroid waveguides and compression drivers on the top, and MULTIPLE subwoofers (at least 3) for the bottom. From the reports from people who have been there and amazed, he has 3 subs tuned to different bands in different locations in the room to smooth out peaks and valleys in different listener positions. You may well end up doing the same, eh? The Gedlee site of Earl Geddes. No stranger to superlatives. http://www.gedlee.com/

djk FWIW, I appreciate the satirical video at the web address above. It's something that deserves to be viewed and discussed. However, IMHO, this thread is not the best place for such a discussion. The service men and women, for whom appreciation is owed, are not the policy makers. Gratitude for their service ought to be apolitical.

Gilbert Thanks for the edit! Let's hope people see the links and share the information.

I'd just replace the diaphragms. Bob Crites can sell you the parts or do the service (I believe).

RB, Gil's in France, so it's unlikely he bid on speakers in Milwaukee.

It's a small sample, but the djk ported bass bin La Scala mod has been done with ports in front, in the back, at the top and at the bottom with similar results. Similalry, single driver rear loaded horn designs have the outlets front, back, side, top, or bottom.

This thread, and links referenced, should be seen by more people.

Thanks for the additional info. Glad to understand that you're not critical of sniping. I ONLY bid through a sniping service. The cost of 10 cents/winning bid is insignificant. My bids get placed with 5 seconds left in the auction. It's impossibvle for someone to raise my bid. A manual bid is too risky, IMO. You and the seller were lucky there was not a sniped bid with a max of $299. Your $180 bid would have been automatically raised to $185 (or whatever the bid increment). At two minutes, there was time for someone to manually raise your bid. If you tried to bid $190 at the close of the auction, a last second sniped bid with a max greater than $190 would have won.

First, I think you did a good thing, under the circumstances. But the person who "sniped" at $175, as well as eBay, would probably disagree. You probably volated eBay's rules regarding "straw bidders", but the spirit of your actions was well intended. Conversely, I wouldn't criticize anyone who feels the eBay seller sould have listed the item properly and set a reserve, if less than $300 was acceptable. An eBay user is not the wholly innocent widow at her garage sale. Did you put in an eBay maximum bid at $300, or a sniped bid with a $300 maximum? If neither, how did the otherwise high bid ($175?) not win the auction? Last, the way you use the term "snipe" suggests a negative view of sniped bids. In any case, please share your thoughts on the merits of sniping.

I agree that the dynamincs of selling used items has been seriously and permanently altered by the Internet, and the TV shows you mentioned. The balance of power seems to have shifted toward sellers. While it's harder to get a deal on a late husband's "ugly plywood boxes" (Las Scalas) that a widow wants hauled away, it's easier to eventually sell that windfall for a fair price. We all take turns being buyers or sellers. I'm willing to share information to the ultimate benefit of all, even if sweetheart deals for buyers go extinct. No one forces buyers, whether informed or ignorant, to pay more than the buyer feels an item is worth. Contrast that to the uninformed seller who sells way below market to an informed buyer who can then turn the item at a more treasonable market price. If shared knowledge results in more bilaterally fair sales, I'm willing to sacrifice the opportunity for the individual's windfall. Make no mistake, I'm not suggesting that a buyer doesn't have the right to score a great deal. But each person has to decide when a "great deal" for one party is unfair to the other party. Even Rick, on Pawn Stars, and Mike, on American Pickers, have offered sellers more than they were asking, when to do otherwise would have been unfair. For me, I wouldn't scalp an individual, such as the aforementioned widow. Conversely, I wouldn't hesitate to skin a professional re-seller who hadn't done the research to know the market value of the item being sold. My opinions only. You're free to disagree.

Bob, Enjoy the Day! Thanks for all you bring to the hobby and this forum always in a civil manner.

They look great!

"I am a fan of the Tuba subs and intend to build one soon. They get usable output well into the teens." djk, Do you have an opinion regarding tapped horns, such as those by Danley?

Welcome to the forum. Using the forum's search function you will find many threads addressing your questions.

Dave, Am I correct that a Danley is a tapped horn and Tuba sub is something else? If so, what are the differences and why do you prefer a Tuba over a tapped horn?

Mike, Glad you can take a joke. So far it looks like they're the real thing or excellent DIY efforts. Rcarlton said, "They look like the real thing to me...but...no badges?" "Badges? . . . We don't need no badges . . . " Please see the photos in the thread (http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/120479.aspx). Those were '54 & '56 Khorns with nary a badge in sight. Perhaps PWK wasn't into badges in the '50s.

Bruce, Do those look DIY to you?

Bruce, I agree, but then I'm not into explosion movies on a regular basis. The gun shots (Open Range) and explosions (Master and Commander) in Glenn aka Picky's home theater are awsome and would not be the same without the subs, but I can still enjoy films without also having my organs (or my budget) shaken.

Mike, Please get more photos of the cabinets, especially the bass bins. Do you have a camera that you can't also use to order pizza?[] I'm not yet convinced that these are DIY. The widow's recollection of "some assembly required" may be consistent with factory built. A tardy welcome!

Have you started a thread dedicated to your Jubscalas? If so, what is it. If not, please do. This ancient thread won't reach the audience your project deserves. PM sent

'Would rebuilding the crossovers, or just upgrading them solve this for me? Help? Yes. Solve? No.

1) Should I be concerned with the age of the wood? I wouldn't be. Absent water damage, the wood ages well. 2) How do the these horns/mid driver fend against other combos? They do well. If the bass bins are DIY, their value as audio antiques is probably diminished. Also, it would then make less sense, IMO, to update them. 3) When I auditioned them, they sounded incredible . . . How do I test the caps? Consider leaving well enough alone, except as to the caps. Don't bother testing 50+ y.o. caps, replace them. Contact Bob Crites, BEC on this forum 4) During the audition she wasn't afaid to give em juice and like I said they sang.. They got way down low.. So as far as woofers would it be safe to say that have cloth surrounds? Yes. Whether Stephens, Jensen, University or EV, they should be fine. Cloth surrrounds were typical in the 50s; foam or rubber surrounds were not. Can you say Deja Vu? When I first met the woman referred to in the thread below, she'd already sold her late father's Mac tube gear and had been offered $800 for a similar pair of Khorns. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/120479.aspx More photos will be nice. Your idea to include the seller is great. Perhaps a photo of the builder is also available. Enjoy the experience. Thanks for sharing.

More photos please. You have, apparently, DIY Klipschorns. If so, the photo suggests good construction. I assume they have grilles that prevent you from seeing into the squawker horns to identify the tweeters. They're probably Univeristy. It would be good to know the make(s) of the woofers. The capacitors in the balancing networks must be shot by now. You can replace the capacitors in those networks or get new networks and leave those in original condition. BTW your forum name is cool. I'm surprised no one thought of it before now.

It's not the woofer, it's the enclosure. The same woofer in a Khorn or Cornwall produces more bass. In free air it produces much less bass. In a Belle it does very well what the design was intended to do.