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MMurg

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Everything posted by MMurg

  1. Yes, I would use with the light wood formula with the American Walnut finish. Even that did somewhat darken the finish of my Belle. That said, I took a good look at your pictures, and I would suggest you try something else before the Trade Secret if you don't want to darken the finish at all. Since just about all the blemishes on your La Scala are small scratches, I would try using Tibet Almond Stick first (http://tibetalmondstick.net/). It's available on Amazon. It's easy to apply only where needed and has no stain in it. If that doesn't work, then move on to the Trade Secret.
  2. I'm making the Belle two-way like the Jubilee. So, the 18x10 horn with the Axi2050 will be in the new motorboard.
  3. I did use a socket to do the final tightening. The initial problem was that the machine screw and nut would just spin when trying to tighten it since the to head is not accessible the way they put this together.
  4. I'm not doing a 402 for the HF for the Belle. I may put a TV on top of it, so I want to keep it as close to the original height as possible. So, I'm trying the ZXPC 18"x10" horn that a bunch of people on the Forum have used. I have someone lined up to make a taller motorboard/side panels for the top-hat to accommodate that horn.
  5. I found a solution to tightening the machine screws with the inaccessible heads in some forum on the internet. It was quite simple, and I didn't have to modify the speaker at all. I replaced the machine screws with ones that were a half inch longer. Then I just added a flat washer and lock washer under the nut. After screwing the nut down onto the lock washer and everything started spinning, I pulled up on the side panel enough to put pressure on the lock washer, hand tightened enough to start engaging the lock washer, and then just used the socket to finish tightening. The tension from the lock washer was enough to keep the screw from spinning. It also works well for removal. (I know this because I was almost finished reassembling the top-hat when I realized I forgot to fish the woofer cable through the hole on the bottom of the top-hat. Grrrr.) Now that the speaker is reassembled, it almost looks like new. Thanks again for all the help.
  6. All recent generations of Heritage are lacquer finish. I believe oiled finishes were only offered on these vintage models up to the "II" versions (except the La Scala) or around the same time for those that didn't have a II designation (late ‘90s) - Heresy, Cornwall, Belle Klipsch, La Scala, Klipschorn, Forte, Chorus, Quartet, kg1, kg2, kg3 and kg4. The La Scala was the exception where oiled finishes were dropped with the II version. (Someone correct me if I missed some.)
  7. I've been made a believer in Trade Secret scratch remover thanks to @OO1. Scroll down near the bottom on page 1 of this thread to see the before and after on the top panel from a 1981 Belle Klipsch.
  8. Yes, thanks for the suggestion. I got the big bottles because I wasn't sure how much it would take to do the speaker. I did the whole speaker, and it seems I hardly used any. The level only went down just past the neck of the bottle. I'm going to try this next on the 30-year-old Ikea pine table in my breakfast nook.
  9. As I was applying the scratch remover, I noticed what appears to be a plug right about where the cover screw would come through. It looks like a previous owner made that same mistake on this Belle. LOL.
  10. Thanks for the warning! I removed the cover already and didn't notice the different screw lengths. I just checked my set of screws. There are two cover screws that are shorter than the rest. Thanks to your warning, I figured out which cover holes are under the veneer. I'll be sure to mark those holes on the cover before I put the screws back in.
  11. Another dumb question. Klipsch put a few small staples into the doghouse hatch gasket tape. Do you think I need to bother doing that? These are the smallest staples I have on hand.
  12. I'm sure. However, I wanted to start with the lowest risk/hassle method first. If this stuff didn't work acceptably, that would probably be the next thing I would have tried.
  13. Thanks everyone for all the help. I don't own an orbital sander, but with my hand sanding tool and a little elbow grease I was able to get the glue off. Now I finally have the Belle completely disassembled except for the woofer, which I don't need to remove for the finish treatment. Got all my fasteners organized in OCD fashion and numbered the grills left to right. Also marked the front of the hatch and riser in a hidden spot. The rest of the parts didn't need any marking to know how they go back together. I'll finish up the treatment tomorrow. Then I'll have to decide what I'm going to do about the machine screws with the inaccessible heads. 🙂 Thanks again.
  14. Thanks. I don't own an orbital sander but I do have a sanding block and some paper. I'll give that a try.
  15. I definitely needed to remove the bass bin hatch as two bass bin grill screws are under it. The problem was as suspected. The adhesive on the old gasket became soft and runny and glued the hatch shut. A wood chisel, hammer, and some gentle tapping/prying allowed me to get under it and pry it. Luckily, I happen to have some peel and stick speaker gasket stripping from a previous VMPS subwoofer passive radiator repair that looks to be the same size as the stuff I scraped off. My only issue now is what to do about the old glue still stuck to the hatch door. I scraped off as much as I could with a putty knife. Normally, I'd try Goo Gone or something similar, but I don't want that soaking into the bare wood. Short of making a new hatch door, what are my options? Can I just put the new gasket over the old glue since it will be held in place by the hatch?
  16. I tried some of the Trade Secret scratch remover on a few pieces so far. I decided to try the light color one first as the speaker finish is really a medium color. I'm very pleased with the results so far. Here are before and after shots of the top board. I'll reevaluate after letting it dry a while and see if I need another coat.
  17. If the threads ever get messed up, having permanently epoxied screws might end up being a nightmare.
  18. @HDBRbuilder - Any suggestions on how to tighten the machine screws/bolts that hold the Belle Klipsch top hat side panels to the top hat bottom board? There is no access to the head of the machine screw heads once you put the bottom board in place and screw in the screw that goes under each of the side panels.
  19. I was thinking about maybe putting threaded inserts into the bottom board where the through holes are now. This is an older Belle made of lumber core panels. So, it should hold threaded inserts well. Then I could just use pan head machine screws from above.
  20. I don't understand the fastener choice here. The top board of the top hat is connected to top flange of the side panel with wood screws that are screwed directly into the top board. However, for the same connection with the bottom board they used flat head machine screws and nuts. Also, it's in a place where you have no access to the screw head when you have to tighten it. I don't get it.
  21. Success on the nuts holding the side panels! Thanks! After loosening both so they were spinning, I pulled up on the side panel to put the bolt in tension and used a socket to get it to move up a small amount. Once that was done, I pulled up, pressed the putty knife against the bolt underneath the panel, and was able to use the socket to remove it the rest of the way. Once the panel was off, that exposed an additional screw holding the bottom panel of the top hat down. I'll do the other side panel tomorrow. Now I have to figure out how I'm going to retighten those bolts when I put the speaker back together. I wonder if the tension trick will work for tightening.
  22. There is no access to the head of the bolt that I can see. It either goes just inside the collar or through the collar. I hope it's not something evil like it goes all the way through the top of the bass bin. Looking at Belle drawings I found on the Forum, that would put the bolt head inside the bass horn behind the grills. That would be some great Catch-22 situation as I think the grills are screwed in from the top (under the top hat) and the bottom.
  23. Hi All, I'm trying to disassemble a Belle Klipsch so that I can get the grills out. I want to try a scratch cover treatment on the places where the lacquer is messed up and I didn't want to get it on the grills. I also figured the least conspicuous place to try it was the inside bottom of the top hat. I removed the motorboard/grill/driver assembly and the crossover without issue. I removed the six screws along the front and back inside edges of the bottom of the top hat (green box showing where one was in the picture). I thought that would free the top hat, but it won't budge. I tried loosening one of the nuts on the bolts holding the top hat sides on (red box), but now it just spins because I have no way of grabbing the head of the bolt. Am I missing something? Do I need to get these nuts off as well? If so, how do I do that when I have no access to the bolt head? Another issue I have is with the hatch on the bottom that I assume gives you access to the woofer inside the doghouse. I removed all the screws, but it won't budge either. Should it just come off once the screws are out? I feel a little something sticky along one edge. Is there a foam seal for the doghouse hatch? Is it possible that degraded and is acting like an adhesive? Any suggestions? Thanks.
  24. Yeah, since the Jubilee were setup I have questioned the wisdom of doing this center speaker. 🙂 However, I had already purchased the speaker and everything else I need to convert it to two-way with an Axi2050 HF. So, at least I will try it out once Parts Express finally gets the Axi2050 back in stock.
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